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Re: true black

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  • pzamov
    I second that on a Dell 5100MP - no shutter device, 12+hour print, I left the resin in the tank for another 5h to test for curing when blank screen is
    Message 1 of 21 , May 16, 2013
      I second that on a Dell 5100MP - no shutter device, 12+hour print, I left the resin in the tank for another 5h to test for curing when blank screen is displayed - no cure.

      Although without red 2423 plexy cover after a few days - slight gelling of resin.

      As I have posted before - my shutter device is a small, high tech, high price,luxury, deluxe model, manila, bubble, jiffy pack envelope.

      To Print - Envelope off lens.
      Post print - Envelope on lens.

      Cheers!
      Peter

      --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "loquin.guillaume" <loquin.guillaume@...> wrote:
      >
      > i did long prints (+5 hours) without shutter device and i didn't notice any curing problem, at last on my projector (dell 5100).I have since added a little servo motor as shutter, juste in case :)
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@> wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > > Same problem here. i am using BENQ MX518. I read contrast ratio 1:13000 so i purchased it. if you make it full bright than Black will cure resin after long exposure...
      > >
      > > I was worried about that too so I added a shutter that closes while my z axis is moving. That cut the time the resin is exposed to the "black" by about 2/3. So far I've only done some small test prints while I work out the kinks so no print times over 40 minutes.
      > >
      > > John
      > >
      >
    • afogassa
      Is That the double crosslink molecular jiffy pack or the standard monomere jiffy pack? LOL... Also I have no problems with the black not being black, not
      Message 2 of 21 , May 16, 2013
        Is That the double crosslink molecular jiffy pack or the standard monomere jiffy pack? LOL...
        Also I have no problems with the black not being black, not enough residual uv power to cure the resin.

        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@...> wrote:
        >
        > I second that on a Dell 5100MP - no shutter device, 12+hour print, I left the resin in the tank for another 5h to test for curing when blank screen is displayed - no cure.
        >
        > Although without red 2423 plexy cover after a few days - slight gelling of resin.
        >
        > As I have posted before - my shutter device is a small, high tech, high price,luxury, deluxe model, manila, bubble, jiffy pack envelope.
        >
        > To Print - Envelope off lens.
        > Post print - Envelope on lens.
        >
        > Cheers!
        > Peter
        >
      • Fabio
        Alvaro, what is your time for each layer?
        Message 3 of 21 , May 16, 2013
          Alvaro, what is your time for each layer?

          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "afogassa" <afogassa@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > Is That the double crosslink molecular jiffy pack or the standard monomere jiffy pack? LOL...
          > Also I have no problems with the black not being black, not enough residual uv power to cure the resin.
          >
          > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@> wrote:
          > >
          > > I second that on a Dell 5100MP - no shutter device, 12+hour print, I left the resin in the tank for another 5h to test for curing when blank screen is displayed - no cure.
          > >
          > > Although without red 2423 plexy cover after a few days - slight gelling of resin.
          > >
          > > As I have posted before - my shutter device is a small, high tech, high price,luxury, deluxe model, manila, bubble, jiffy pack envelope.
          > >
          > > To Print - Envelope off lens.
          > > Post print - Envelope on lens.
          > >
          > > Cheers!
          > > Peter
          > >
          >
        • afogassa
          9 sec. for a 0.1mm layer.
          Message 4 of 21 , May 16, 2013
            9 sec. for a 0.1mm layer.

            --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Fabio" <fabio.primaio@...> wrote:
            >
            > Alvaro, what is your time for each layer?
            >
            > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "afogassa" <afogassa@> wrote:
            > >
            > >
            > > Is That the double crosslink molecular jiffy pack or the standard monomere jiffy pack? LOL...
            > > Also I have no problems with the black not being black, not enough residual uv power to cure the resin.
            > >
            > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > I second that on a Dell 5100MP - no shutter device, 12+hour print, I left the resin in the tank for another 5h to test for curing when blank screen is displayed - no cure.
            > > >
            > > > Although without red 2423 plexy cover after a few days - slight gelling of resin.
            > > >
            > > > As I have posted before - my shutter device is a small, high tech, high price,luxury, deluxe model, manila, bubble, jiffy pack envelope.
            > > >
            > > > To Print - Envelope off lens.
            > > > Post print - Envelope on lens.
            > > >
            > > > Cheers!
            > > > Peter
            > > >
            > >
            >
          • Ben Mahony
            Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the output?
            Message 5 of 21 , May 16, 2013

              Why do you cover the lens?  Why not turn turn off projector when you are not using it?  Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the output?
              Ben M
              Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria

              On 16/05/2013 10:19 AM, "pzamov" <pzamov@...> wrote:
               

              I second that on a Dell 5100MP - no shutter device, 12+hour print, I left the resin in the tank for another 5h to test for curing when blank screen is displayed - no cure.

              Although without red 2423 plexy cover after a few days - slight gelling of resin.

              As I have posted before - my shutter device is a small, high tech, high price,luxury, deluxe model, manila, bubble, jiffy pack envelope.

              To Print - Envelope off lens.
              Post print - Envelope on lens.

              Cheers!
              Peter

              --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "loquin.guillaume" <loquin.guillaume@...> wrote:
              >
              > i did long prints (+5 hours) without shutter device and i didn't notice any curing problem, at last on my projector (dell 5100).I have since added a little servo motor as shutter, juste in case :)
              >
              >
              >
              > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@> wrote:
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > > Same problem here. i am using BENQ MX518. I read contrast ratio 1:13000 so i purchased it. if you make it full bright than Black will cure resin after long exposure...
              > >
              > > I was worried about that too so I added a shutter that closes while my z axis is moving. That cut the time the resin is exposed to the "black" by about 2/3. So far I've only done some small test prints while I work out the kinks so no print times over 40 minutes.
              > >
              > > John
              > >
              >

            • John
              In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill
              Message 6 of 21 , May 16, 2013
                In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill I start the print cycle. That is the main reason I put in the motorized shutter. So I can have it open when the printing starts and close when done. Peter's bubble mailer does the same thing with much less complication.

                --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@...> wrote:
                >
                > Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are
                > not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the
                > output?
                > Ben M
                > Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria
              • John
                In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill
                Message 7 of 21 , May 16, 2013
                  In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill I start the print cycle. That is the main reason I put in the motorized shutter. So I can have it open when the printing starts and close when done. Peter's bubble mailer does the same thing with much less complication.

                  --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are
                  > not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the
                  > output?
                  > Ben M
                  > Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria
                • pzamov
                  I have not placed any covers on the printer s sides. I have full access to every part of the printer. It is easier to just place the envelope and remove prints
                  Message 8 of 21 , May 17, 2013
                    I have not placed any covers on the printer's sides. I have full access to every part of the printer. It is easier to just place the envelope and remove prints or cover the lens until the next print job is loaded and started. If you power down and power back up - you waste lamp life, as it has to cool the lamp, then warm it up again and you shorten its life this way. I'm not using the envelope to cover the lens and leave the printer running for days without shutting it down, I'm using it not to accidentally expose the resin in between jobs or short pauses.

                    Cheers!
                    Peter

                    --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are
                    > not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the
                    > output?
                    > Ben M
                    > Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria
                    > On 16/05/2013 10:19 AM, "pzamov" <pzamov@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > > **
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > I second that on a Dell 5100MP - no shutter device, 12+hour print, I left
                    > > the resin in the tank for another 5h to test for curing when blank screen
                    > > is displayed - no cure.
                    > >
                    > > Although without red 2423 plexy cover after a few days - slight gelling of
                    > > resin.
                    > >
                    > > As I have posted before - my shutter device is a small, high tech, high
                    > > price,luxury, deluxe model, manila, bubble, jiffy pack envelope.
                    > >
                    > > To Print - Envelope off lens.
                    > > Post print - Envelope on lens.
                    > >
                    > > Cheers!
                    > > Peter
                    > >
                    > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                    > > "loquin.guillaume" <loquin.guillaume@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > i did long prints (+5 hours) without shutter device and i didn't notice
                    > > any curing problem, at last on my projector (dell 5100).I have since added
                    > > a little servo motor as shutter, juste in case :)
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John"
                    > > <johntyson@> wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > > Same problem here. i am using BENQ MX518. I read contrast ratio
                    > > 1:13000 so i purchased it. if you make it full bright than Black will cure
                    > > resin after long exposure...
                    > > > >
                    > > > > I was worried about that too so I added a shutter that closes while my
                    > > z axis is moving. That cut the time the resin is exposed to the "black" by
                    > > about 2/3. So far I've only done some small test prints while I work out
                    > > the kinks so no print times over 40 minutes.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > John
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    >
                  • Fabio
                    this guy speaks of 1 sec/layer!!! really fast, which type of projector can do this,any idea? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K0bb5_Pjkw
                    Message 9 of 21 , May 17, 2013
                      this guy speaks of 1 sec/layer!!! really fast, which type of projector can do this,any idea?

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K0bb5_Pjkw

                      --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill I start the print cycle. That is the main reason I put in the motorized shutter. So I can have it open when the printing starts and close when done. Peter's bubble mailer does the same thing with much less complication.
                      >
                      > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are
                      > > not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the
                      > > output?
                      > > Ben M
                      > > Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria
                      >
                    • loquin.guillaume
                      i like the VAT tilting motion!
                      Message 10 of 21 , May 17, 2013
                        i like the VAT tilting motion!

                        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Fabio" <fabio.primaio@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > this guy speaks of 1 sec/layer!!! really fast, which type of projector can do this,any idea?
                        >
                        > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K0bb5_Pjkw
                        >
                        > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill I start the print cycle. That is the main reason I put in the motorized shutter. So I can have it open when the printing starts and close when done. Peter's bubble mailer does the same thing with much less complication.
                        > >
                        > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are
                        > > > not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the
                        > > > output?
                        > > > Ben M
                        > > > Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria
                        > >
                        >
                      • Fernando Muñiz
                        I know this person, his printers are very professional. The tilting motion on this machine is genius!
                        Message 11 of 21 , May 17, 2013
                          I know this person, his printers are very professional.
                          The tilting motion on this machine is genius!

                          On 05/17/2013 11:18 AM, loquin.guillaume wrote:
                           

                          i like the VAT tilting motion!

                          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Fabio" <fabio.primaio@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > this guy speaks of 1 sec/layer!!! really fast, which type of projector can do this,any idea?
                          >
                          > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K0bb5_Pjkw
                          >
                          > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > > In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill I start the print cycle. That is the main reason I put in the motorized shutter. So I can have it open when the printing starts and close when done. Peter's bubble mailer does the same thing with much less complication.
                          > >
                          > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are
                          > > > not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the
                          > > > output?
                          > > > Ben M
                          > > > Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria
                          > >
                          >


                        • Graham Stabler
                          4-bar linkage? Graham ... 4-bar linkage? Graham On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Fernando Muñiz wrote:   I know this person, his
                          Message 12 of 21 , May 17, 2013
                            4-bar linkage?

                            Graham


                            On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Fernando Muñiz <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                             

                            I know this person, his printers are very professional.
                            The tilting motion on this machine is genius!

                          • pzamov
                            LOL Can you keep a secret? Dell 5100MP and maybe plenty of other projectors. The cure time per layer is even less than one second, but the separation is what
                            Message 13 of 21 , May 17, 2013
                              LOL

                              Can you keep a secret?
                              Dell 5100MP and maybe plenty of other projectors.
                              The cure time per layer is even less than one second, but the separation is what takes time.

                              Cheers!
                              Peter

                              --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Fabio" <fabio.primaio@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > this guy speaks of 1 sec/layer!!! really fast, which type of projector can do this,any idea?
                              >
                              > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K0bb5_Pjkw
                              >
                              > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@> wrote:
                              > >
                              > > In my case, the lamp has to warm up for a few minutes to reach full brightness. Also, I only have one vga out so the projector is displaying my desktop untill I start the print cycle. That is the main reason I put in the motorized shutter. So I can have it open when the printing starts and close when done. Peter's bubble mailer does the same thing with much less complication.
                              > >
                              > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > Why do you cover the lens? Why not turn turn off projector when you are
                              > > > not using it? Surely this is as easy as sliding a Manila envelope over the
                              > > > output?
                              > > > Ben M
                              > > > Posting from a beer garden in Bavaria
                              > >
                              >
                            • Jon Elson
                              ... Yes, looks very good, and may help to keep the pigment stirred in the resin, too. I think such a mechanism would be pretty easy to build. Jon
                              Message 14 of 21 , May 17, 2013
                                loquin.guillaume wrote:
                                > i like the VAT tilting motion!
                                >
                                Yes, looks very good, and may help to keep the pigment stirred in
                                the resin, too. I think such a mechanism would be pretty easy to
                                build.

                                Jon
                              • wwbourn
                                I would say 4 bar linkage as well for the movement. Looks like a great idea for using sliding and tilting. Thanks for sharing the video link.
                                Message 15 of 21 , May 20, 2013
                                  I would say 4 bar linkage as well for the movement. Looks like a great idea for using sliding and tilting. Thanks for sharing the video link.


                                  --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Graham Stabler <grezmos@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > 4-bar linkage?
                                  >
                                  > Graham
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Fernando Muñiz <spacecaptain@...>wrote:
                                  >
                                  > > **
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > I know this person, his printers are very professional.
                                  > > The tilting motion on this machine is genius!
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  >
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