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Re: Neutral Gray color

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  • Fabio
    chapeu
    Message 1 of 4 , May 13, 2013
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      chapeu

      --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@...> wrote:
      >
      > Here is the proof:
      >
      > http://eti-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/46299_Black_Pigment1.pdf
      >
      > Cheers!
      > Peter
      >
      > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Fabio" <fabio.primaio@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Peter, are you sure that is ferric oxide? I have a sample from Cabot tha is carbon based. Even if you put a magnet on it some particle are attract
      > >
      > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > @Group,
      > > > I have been asked why I use the Yellow pigment and not a grayish neutral color:
      > > >
      > > > The yellow ( or other single color pigments from ETI ) disperses well in the resin.
      > > >
      > > > I have tried to mix a gray color ( black and white pigments ) with an awful result:
      > > >
      > > > The black from ETI is based on Ferric Oxides and I get a fallout of the resin after a longer ( 3-4-5 hour ) jobs.
      > > > Then the problem is that the pigment settles on the bottom of the VAT and blocks ( or at least a significant portion )any further light from reaching the resin. The resin separates in 3 distinct layers:
      > > > White resin on top
      > > > Clearer resin in the middle ( that has had the black separated )
      > > > Grayish/black from the pigment.
      > > >
      > > > I have confirmed that it is magnetic with a neodymium super magnet.
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > So that is why I use the yellow ( as it absorbs the blue the best ) and I could use a primer surfacer 1200 to show the details or to use the object directly, but as of now I see no need.
      > > >
      > > > Cheers!
      > > > Peter
      > > >
      > >
      >
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