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Neutral Gray color

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  • pzamov
    @Group, I have been asked why I use the Yellow pigment and not a grayish neutral color: The yellow ( or other single color pigments from ETI ) disperses well
    Message 1 of 4 , May 10, 2013
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      @Group,
      I have been asked why I use the Yellow pigment and not a grayish neutral color:

      The yellow ( or other single color pigments from ETI ) disperses well in the resin.

      I have tried to mix a gray color ( black and white pigments ) with an awful result:

      The black from ETI is based on Ferric Oxides and I get a fallout of the resin after a longer ( 3-4-5 hour ) jobs.
      Then the problem is that the pigment settles on the bottom of the VAT and blocks ( or at least a significant portion )any further light from reaching the resin. The resin separates in 3 distinct layers:
      White resin on top
      Clearer resin in the middle ( that has had the black separated )
      Grayish/black from the pigment.

      I have confirmed that it is magnetic with a neodymium super magnet.


      So that is why I use the yellow ( as it absorbs the blue the best ) and I could use a primer surfacer 1200 to show the details or to use the object directly, but as of now I see no need.

      Cheers!
      Peter
    • Fabio
      Peter, are you sure that is ferric oxide? I have a sample from Cabot tha is carbon based. Even if you put a magnet on it some particle are attract
      Message 2 of 4 , May 10, 2013
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        Peter, are you sure that is ferric oxide? I have a sample from Cabot tha is carbon based. Even if you put a magnet on it some particle are attract

        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@...> wrote:
        >
        > @Group,
        > I have been asked why I use the Yellow pigment and not a grayish neutral color:
        >
        > The yellow ( or other single color pigments from ETI ) disperses well in the resin.
        >
        > I have tried to mix a gray color ( black and white pigments ) with an awful result:
        >
        > The black from ETI is based on Ferric Oxides and I get a fallout of the resin after a longer ( 3-4-5 hour ) jobs.
        > Then the problem is that the pigment settles on the bottom of the VAT and blocks ( or at least a significant portion )any further light from reaching the resin. The resin separates in 3 distinct layers:
        > White resin on top
        > Clearer resin in the middle ( that has had the black separated )
        > Grayish/black from the pigment.
        >
        > I have confirmed that it is magnetic with a neodymium super magnet.
        >
        >
        > So that is why I use the yellow ( as it absorbs the blue the best ) and I could use a primer surfacer 1200 to show the details or to use the object directly, but as of now I see no need.
        >
        > Cheers!
        > Peter
        >
      • pzamov
        Here is the proof: http://eti-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/46299_Black_Pigment1.pdf Cheers! Peter
        Message 3 of 4 , May 12, 2013
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          Here is the proof:

          http://eti-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/46299_Black_Pigment1.pdf

          Cheers!
          Peter

          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Fabio" <fabio.primaio@...> wrote:
          >
          > Peter, are you sure that is ferric oxide? I have a sample from Cabot tha is carbon based. Even if you put a magnet on it some particle are attract
          >
          > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@> wrote:
          > >
          > > @Group,
          > > I have been asked why I use the Yellow pigment and not a grayish neutral color:
          > >
          > > The yellow ( or other single color pigments from ETI ) disperses well in the resin.
          > >
          > > I have tried to mix a gray color ( black and white pigments ) with an awful result:
          > >
          > > The black from ETI is based on Ferric Oxides and I get a fallout of the resin after a longer ( 3-4-5 hour ) jobs.
          > > Then the problem is that the pigment settles on the bottom of the VAT and blocks ( or at least a significant portion )any further light from reaching the resin. The resin separates in 3 distinct layers:
          > > White resin on top
          > > Clearer resin in the middle ( that has had the black separated )
          > > Grayish/black from the pigment.
          > >
          > > I have confirmed that it is magnetic with a neodymium super magnet.
          > >
          > >
          > > So that is why I use the yellow ( as it absorbs the blue the best ) and I could use a primer surfacer 1200 to show the details or to use the object directly, but as of now I see no need.
          > >
          > > Cheers!
          > > Peter
          > >
          >
        • Fabio
          chapeu
          Message 4 of 4 , May 13, 2013
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            chapeu

            --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@...> wrote:
            >
            > Here is the proof:
            >
            > http://eti-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/46299_Black_Pigment1.pdf
            >
            > Cheers!
            > Peter
            >
            > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Fabio" <fabio.primaio@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Peter, are you sure that is ferric oxide? I have a sample from Cabot tha is carbon based. Even if you put a magnet on it some particle are attract
            > >
            > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > @Group,
            > > > I have been asked why I use the Yellow pigment and not a grayish neutral color:
            > > >
            > > > The yellow ( or other single color pigments from ETI ) disperses well in the resin.
            > > >
            > > > I have tried to mix a gray color ( black and white pigments ) with an awful result:
            > > >
            > > > The black from ETI is based on Ferric Oxides and I get a fallout of the resin after a longer ( 3-4-5 hour ) jobs.
            > > > Then the problem is that the pigment settles on the bottom of the VAT and blocks ( or at least a significant portion )any further light from reaching the resin. The resin separates in 3 distinct layers:
            > > > White resin on top
            > > > Clearer resin in the middle ( that has had the black separated )
            > > > Grayish/black from the pigment.
            > > >
            > > > I have confirmed that it is magnetic with a neodymium super magnet.
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > So that is why I use the yellow ( as it absorbs the blue the best ) and I could use a primer surfacer 1200 to show the details or to use the object directly, but as of now I see no need.
            > > >
            > > > Cheers!
            > > > Peter
            > > >
            > >
            >
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