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  • John
    I just posted pics of by first successful print!!!!! http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/photos/album/945125727/pic/list The first
    Message 1 of 10 , May 2, 2013
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      I just posted pics of by first successful print!!!!!

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/photos/album/945125727/pic/list

      The first few prints were EPIC failures. I had a detachment, a total failure of support structures, and a reversed image (it was upsidedown and backwards. I've gotten those problems solved so now I need to refine my resin pigmentation. I'm using SPOTA GP with Castin'Craft opaque pigments. (white and black to make grey) Red or yellow would probobly be better but I like the more neutral grey/green. My exposure time is 1650ms with a total layer cycle time of about 6 seconds. There were 215 layers so it took about 25 minutes to print.
    • loquin.guillaume
      congratulation ! another working dlp printer :) i like the color of your resin, i would love to have a primixed greyish resin from spotA like the Form1 resin.
      Message 2 of 10 , May 2, 2013
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        congratulation ! another working dlp printer :)

        i like the color of your resin, i would love to have a primixed greyish resin from spotA like the Form1 resin. Fernando?:D

        what are you using for the vat coating?

        Guillaume.

        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@...> wrote:
        >
        > I just posted pics of by first successful print!!!!!
        >
        > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/photos/album/945125727/pic/list
        >
        > The first few prints were EPIC failures. I had a detachment, a total failure of support structures, and a reversed image (it was upsidedown and backwards. I've gotten those problems solved so now I need to refine my resin pigmentation. I'm using SPOTA GP with Castin'Craft opaque pigments. (white and black to make grey) Red or yellow would probobly be better but I like the more neutral grey/green. My exposure time is 1650ms with a total layer cycle time of about 6 seconds. There were 215 layers so it took about 25 minutes to print.
        >
      • John
        Thanks, I m sure the red and yellow pigments work better, but I wanted a more neutral color so I tried mixing a grey. The yellowish color of the resin gave it
        Message 3 of 10 , May 2, 2013
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          Thanks, I'm sure the red and yellow pigments work better, but I wanted a more neutral color so I tried mixing a grey. The yellowish color of the resin gave it a slightly greenish tint that is not unpleasant.

          I'm using Sylgard for my vat. It was working great until I had a print separate from the platform and the resulting blob on the vat floor dammaged it. Now I have a rough patch that the resin doesn't release from as nicely. It also diffuses the image so I get some muddy details. If you look at the face of my figure print you can see what I mean. The hands and feet came out very detailed but the head is very soft on detail. I checked and it printed right over the bad spot. For now I'll move my prints to a different part of the vat but I definitly need to make annother vat floor.

          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "loquin.guillaume" <loquin.guillaume@...> wrote:
          >
          > congratulation ! another working dlp printer :)
          >
          > i like the color of your resin, i would love to have a primixed greyish resin from spotA like the Form1 resin. Fernando?:D
          >
          > what are you using for the vat coating?
          >
          > Guillaume.
          >
        • Fernando Muñiz
          Well, a grey resin is easily possible. Maybe I should offer it as a standard product in the shop? At least the Form1 users would like to find a similar color
          Message 4 of 10 , May 3, 2013
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            Well, a grey resin is easily possible. Maybe I should offer it as a standard product in the shop?
            At least the Form1 users would like to find a similar color available in my product range, so I have been requested.

            On 05/02/2013 08:34 PM, John wrote:
             

            Thanks, I'm sure the red and yellow pigments work better, but I wanted a more neutral color so I tried mixing a grey. The yellowish color of the resin gave it a slightly greenish tint that is not unpleasant.

            I'm using Sylgard for my vat. It was working great until I had a print separate from the platform and the resulting blob on the vat floor dammaged it. Now I have a rough patch that the resin doesn't release from as nicely. It also diffuses the image so I get some muddy details. If you look at the face of my figure print you can see what I mean. The hands and feet came out very detailed but the head is very soft on detail. I checked and it printed right over the bad spot. For now I'll move my prints to a different part of the vat but I definitly need to make annother vat floor.

            --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "loquin.guillaume" <loquin.guillaume@...> wrote:
            >
            > congratulation ! another working dlp printer :)
            >
            > i like the color of your resin, i would love to have a primixed greyish resin from spotA like the Form1 resin. Fernando?:D
            >
            > what are you using for the vat coating?
            >
            > Guillaume.
            >


          • pzamov
            Fantastic Job and good resolution! Keep it going! Cheers! Peter
            Message 5 of 10 , May 8, 2013
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              Fantastic Job and good resolution!
              Keep it going!

              Cheers!
              Peter


              --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@...> wrote:
              >
              > I just posted pics of by first successful print!!!!!
              >
              > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/photos/album/945125727/pic/list
              >
              > The first few prints were EPIC failures. I had a detachment, a total failure of support structures, and a reversed image (it was upsidedown and backwards. I've gotten those problems solved so now I need to refine my resin pigmentation. I'm using SPOTA GP with Castin'Craft opaque pigments. (white and black to make grey) Red or yellow would probobly be better but I like the more neutral grey/green. My exposure time is 1650ms with a total layer cycle time of about 6 seconds. There were 215 layers so it took about 25 minutes to print.
              >
            • Bhatt Himanshu
              Superb result. Can you tell me about Layer Thickness. XY Resolution and which projector do you use(Lumen,Native Res)??? and Seperation method(Sliding,Tilt or
              Message 6 of 10 , May 9, 2013
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                Superb result.
                Can you tell me about Layer Thickness. XY Resolution and which projector do you use(Lumen,Native Res)??? and Seperation method(Sliding,Tilt or only reciprocate).
                Thanks,
                Him

                --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@...> wrote:
                >
                > I just posted pics of by first successful print!!!!!
                >
                > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/photos/album/945125727/pic/list
                >
                > The first few prints were EPIC failures. I had a detachment, a total failure of support structures, and a reversed image (it was upsidedown and backwards. I've gotten those problems solved so now I need to refine my resin pigmentation. I'm using SPOTA GP with Castin'Craft opaque pigments. (white and black to make grey) Red or yellow would probobly be better but I like the more neutral grey/green. My exposure time is 1650ms with a total layer cycle time of about 6 seconds. There were 215 layers so it took about 25 minutes to print.
                >
              • John
                Thanks Bhatt, The projector I m using is a Mitsubishi XD430U, Native resolution 1024x768 Focused down to 4x3 inches (101.6x76.2mm). It has 2500 lumens (230W
                Message 7 of 10 , May 13, 2013
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                  Thanks Bhatt,

                  The projector I'm using is a Mitsubishi XD430U, Native resolution 1024x768 Focused down to 4x3 inches (101.6x76.2mm). It has 2500 lumens (230W lamp)but I'm using it in ECO mode so I don't know what the actual watts are. I'm continuing to refine my exposure to get thinner layers. My last print was sliced @.07mm and the resin was cured to 0.14mm. I'm working on getting that down to .1 but the projector is so bright that the exposures are fractions of a second. I changed the color of the slides to a medium grey and that bumped up the exposure time to 2600ms.

                  I'm using Fernando's Spota GP resin with Castin' Craft opaque pigment (black and white to make grey) it works ok for short print runs but there would be a problem with long print times as the pigment begins to settle out after about an hour.

                  The vat floor is covered with Sylgard. The tilting is passive in that the tray is hinged on one side. As the z axis lifts the other side is allowed to rise untill it separates and gravity brings it back down.The amount it lifts depends on the surface area of the layer. the first few layers lift about 1/4 inch. The viscosity of the resin keeps it from sloshing around too much. On very small exposure areas, the tray doesn't lift at all and it can be hard to tell if there has been a failure of some sort.

                  John


                  --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Bhatt Himanshu" <bhatthimanshu@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Superb result.
                  > Can you tell me about Layer Thickness. XY Resolution and which projector do you use(Lumen,Native Res)??? and Seperation method(Sliding,Tilt or only reciprocate).
                  > Thanks,
                  > Him
                • John
                  I forgot to mention that I had to remove the screw on the focus ring of the lens to get it to focus that close/small.
                  Message 8 of 10 , May 13, 2013
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                    I forgot to mention that I had to remove the screw on the focus ring of the lens to get it to focus that close/small.
                  • John
                    One more thing, I did not alter the color wheel. Other than removing the focus stop, the projector is stock.
                    Message 9 of 10 , May 13, 2013
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                      One more thing, I did not alter the color wheel. Other than removing the focus stop, the projector is stock.

                      --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@...> wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      > I forgot to mention that I had to remove the screw on the focus ring of the lens to get it to focus that close/small.
                      >
                    • Bhatt Himanshu
                      Hey John, Thanks for Sharing information. Which software are you using? and you told me that for first few layer it goes up to 1/2 inch and other layers very
                      Message 10 of 10 , May 18, 2013
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                        Hey John,
                        Thanks for Sharing information.
                        Which software are you using?
                        and you told me that for first few layer it goes up to 1/2 inch and other layers very small amount of lifting done. So how you decide?? i mean is there a feature in software to calculate that or you are using Sensor bellow VAT to determine that???

                        Himanshu Bhatt
                        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > One more thing, I did not alter the color wheel. Other than removing the focus stop, the projector is stock.
                        >
                        > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "John" <johntyson@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > I forgot to mention that I had to remove the screw on the focus ring of the lens to get it to focus that close/small.
                        > >
                        >
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