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Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: Foto

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  • Francis Leach
    In my opinion. If you are making one off or very small numbers where the solidprint must be repeated over and over again, then a burn out technique is a
    Message 1 of 7 , Nov 17, 2012
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      In my opinion.

      If you are making "one off " or very small numbers where the solidprint must be repeated over and over again, then a burn out technique is a reasonable way to go. However if you are replicating the solidprint master to liberate multiples, say up to 100 times, a silicone mould injected with wax will provide a mould master that will burn out without residue, in a more reliable economic way.

      It is can possible but a little risky to use the primary solidprint  as a burn out master to liberate a single cast metal replica, which can then be reworked to remove the build layering and that item may then used to make the silicon mould for repeated lost wax replication. Due allowance has to be included in the scaling of the 3D model as allowance must be made for contraction of the metal in solidification, in the first and second replications if the final cast items are to be accurate, especially if the item is a mating of components in an assembly.  

      It is not an exact science and variations occur due to many influencing factors :- temperature of the environment when casting , the temperature of the alloy and mould at the time of casting, the volume of the item and how the runners and gates are distributed, the maximum dimension in specific axises, the localized mass effects on shape and distortion.  

      Experience counts for a lot.


      On 17 November 2012 16:05, augago <aaaugustin@...> wrote:
       

      I do not have satisfactory polymer remains small amounts of impurities after burnout. ( Still Testing)

      Ago



      --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Mike Polcyn <lizardman2000@...> wrote:
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      > have you found any DIY resins that would burn out clean enough for investment casting? (e.g. Skip mold, wax steps--- Print->plaster-> burnout->cast)
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      > --- On Sat, 11/17/12, augago <aaaugustin@...> wrote:
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      > From: augago <aaaugustin@...>

      > Subject: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: Foto
      > To: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
      > Date: Saturday, November 17, 2012, 9:54 AM
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      > Print is not metal, the whole procedure is longer:
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      > PRINT Model (polymer) - FORM (silicone) - copy MODEL (wax) - plaster CUVETTE (investment casting-gold, silver or aluminum)
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      > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "cygnusgil" <cygnusgil@> wrote:
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      > > Is that actual printed metal?
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      > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "augago" <aaaugustin@> wrote:
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      > > > I added the last few articles of DIY 3D Printing.
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      > > > Size approx 35mm. Print 55 mic. Gold, silver, aluminum.
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      > > > Ago
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      --
      Regards

      Francis Leach


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