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Re: new video of my dlp 3d printer

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  • afogassa
    That was my first thought on how to release it from the build pad, i´ve worked with moldmaking and that is how a parts comes out of the mold. it cuts the
    Message 1 of 70 , Jul 2 10:21 AM
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      That was my first thought on how to release it from the build pad, i´ve worked with moldmaking and that is how a parts comes out of the mold. it cuts the sprue off when opening it.
      I was thinking about a screw that when turned slides the two plates apart.the cured resin is kind of hard to cut by shear forces so,i think a fine thread screw would have more power to shear the sprues off.
      So, i´ll be using screws and not hand or spring load to not infringe your patent extenssion :-)
      Seriously it worth a try maybe i´ll build this way.

      --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Graham Stabler <grezmos@...> wrote:
      >
      > Oh I was assuming it was made of Teflon, that is what I wrote in my patent
      > extending yours :)
      >
      > The sliding plates could be spring-loaded and squeezing a handle causes the
      > two plates to slide past each other for the "eject"
      >
      > Graham
      >
      > On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 6:05 PM, afogassa <afogassa@...> wrote:
      >
      > > **
      > >
      > >
      > > oh yes, but looks like its a commom way of thinking :-)
      > > on a second thought it would help to release the part from the build pad,
      > > but maybe the sliding between the two plates will get stuck and you would
      > > have to hammer it to make it move.
      > > unless the second plate the one that has the tapered holes is made with
      > > teflon,ohhhh just got a idea that might work...I better hurry to fill
      > > another patent :-)
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Graham Stabler
      > > <grezmos@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > You seem to have thought of everything! :)
      > > >
      > > > Graham
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 5:51 PM, afogassa <afogassa@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > > **
      > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Thought about that too :-) but the tapered part will need to get clean
      > > > > anyway.so , it´s better to just make the base from a retangular tube
      > > then
      > > > > dip the base into solvent after removing the base layer.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Graham Stabler
      > > > > <grezmos@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > So you will only print over the holes so you can get access to cut?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > What about making the plate from two layers, one a straight hole and
      > > the
      > > > > > other with a countersink, that way when you split those plated the
      > > > > "heads"
      > > > > > of the sprues will fly off and you can push them out of the holes?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Ah yes, I read your patent but found it too obvious ;)
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Graham
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 5:15 PM, afogassa <afogassa@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > > **
      > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > the large part of the tapper is up, i´ll remove the base layer by
      > > > > cutting
      > > > > > > the sprues with a sharp blade in between the base layer and the
      > > > > aluminum
      > > > > > > plate.that´s why i´ll be using small diameter holes.don´t need too
      > > > > many of
      > > > > > > them maybe spaced by 20mm or so. then dip the base into solvent to
      > > > > dissolve
      > > > > > > the sprues and get clean holes to the next build.
      > > > > > > Yes i´ve filled a patent for the tapered holes,plain
      > > > > holes,dovetail,oval
      > > > > > > holes,square holes,holes withing holes,triangular holes any kind of
      > > > > > > indentation on the base build, the use of aluminium base, acrylic
      > > > > > > base,pexiglass base,steel base,base made by any other material in
      > > this
      > > > > > > earth and glass base with above holes on it and so on... :-)
      > > > > > > there is only one hole that is not in my patent aplication but i
      > > don´t
      > > > > > > think manufacures will use it anyway :-)
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Graham
      > > Stabler
      > > > > > > <grezmos@> wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > I'm not sure I understand how you intend to use the tapered
      > > holes? If
      > > > > > > they
      > > > > > > > are tapered from the part side there will be no help, if tapered
      > > > > from the
      > > > > > > > other side how will you remove the part?
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Graham
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:57 PM, afogassa <afogassa@> wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > **
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > being there :-) , it doesn´t work, it won´t slid off, and it´s
      > > > > > > impossible
      > > > > > > > > to remove without breaking the part.
      > > > > > > > > The best way i think would be to use a retangular aluminum
      > > > > extrusion
      > > > > > > tube
      > > > > > > > > and drill 2 to 3mm tapered holes into it. i´ll try that when
      > > the
      > > > > resin
      > > > > > > gets
      > > > > > > > > here. small sprues can be cut easy with a sharp blade without
      > > > > breaking
      > > > > > > the
      > > > > > > > > parts base.it also minimizes suction on the first base layer
      > > for
      > > > > > > smaller
      > > > > > > > > parts.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Graham
      > > > > Stabler
      > > > > > > > > <grezmos@> wrote:
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > If the base had a shallow dovetail machined in then it would
      > > > > hold but
      > > > > > > > > allow
      > > > > > > > > > the part to be slid off at the end perhaps? The dovetail
      > > would be
      > > > > > > > > tapered a
      > > > > > > > > > little so to have a sort of horizontal draft.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Graham
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 1:34 PM, afogassa <afogassa@> wrote:
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > **
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > Another option is to drill tapered holes on a acrylic sheet
      > > > > > > instead of
      > > > > > > > > > > using glass this locks the base in place.I did one try
      > > this way
      > > > > > > and it
      > > > > > > > > > > works. I´ll try a perfurated aluminum base next time the
      > > using
      > > > > a
      > > > > > > > > solvent to
      > > > > > > > > > > clean the base up for next use.
      > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
      > > Graham
      > > > > > > Stabler
      > > > > > > > > > > <grezmos@> wrote:
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > Alvaro,
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > Great work as always, just like you I am interested in
      > > > > > > engineering
      > > > > > > > > parts
      > > > > > > > > > > > not "pretty things" but I am sure it is possible if we
      > > work
      > > > > at
      > > > > > > it.
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > I saw this on instructables and thought of you:
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > http://www.instructables.com/id/100-Warp-Free-MakerBot-3D-Printing/
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > This is for FDM/FFM type building but the key for him
      > > was to
      > > > > > > increase
      > > > > > > > > > > > adhesion to the base, he primed it with a thin layer of
      > > abs
      > > > > > > created
      > > > > > > > > by
      > > > > > > > > > > > mixing abs and acetone.
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > The DLP printer is a little bit different but may benefit
      > > > > from
      > > > > > > > > keeping
      > > > > > > > > > > the
      > > > > > > > > > > > part extremely well glued to the base perhaps even during
      > > > > post
      > > > > > > cure,
      > > > > > > > > then
      > > > > > > > > > > > maybe even some time at a slightly elevated temperature
      > > to
      > > > > > > > > "normalise"?
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > I'm wondering if coating the build platform with fabric
      > > tape
      > > > > > > could
      > > > > > > > > work,
      > > > > > > > > > > > the resin would impregnate the tape and be extremely well
      > > > > fixed.
      > > > > > > > > Remove
      > > > > > > > > > > > tape with IPA later.
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > Warping might still be an issue for large flat surfaces
      > > that
      > > > > are
      > > > > > > not
      > > > > > > > > at
      > > > > > > > > > > the
      > > > > > > > > > > > build platform. I wonder if there are guidlines that come
      > > > > with
      > > > > > > > > > > > the commercial DLP printers to help prevent these
      > > problems.
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > Graham
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    • Michael Couch
      http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/openrov/openrov-the-open-source-underwater-robot?ref=NewsJul0512&utm_campaign=Jul05&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter
      Message 70 of 70 , Jul 6 12:08 PM
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