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Progress update

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  • johntyson@bellsouth.net
    Over the weekend I mounted the printer on the rails and gave the control program a test run. Everything seems to work but I noticed two problems which have to
    Message 1 of 6 , Jul 6, 2009
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      Over the weekend I mounted the printer on the rails and gave the control program a test run. Everything seems to work but I noticed two problems which have to be addressed. My stepper motor has no problem moving the printer but the motion is so violently jerky that the other end "bounces" back and forth. I'm going to have to modify my drive to drive both sides of the gantry to eliminate the racking (parts are on order). The other problem arises from the way I am pausing the printer during the recharge cycle. I am tricking the paper path sensor into thinking the paper is out which pauses the printer until I tell it that paper has been inserted. The problem is that the printer then tries to feed the paper about ½ inch and begins to print the next page immediately. I guess I'm going to have to mess with pin #11 on the printer cable to tell the computer that the printer is "busy" while I re-home the gantry.

      I uploaded a few more pictures of my progress, see John's 3DP in the photos section.
    • afogassa
      ... Cool! nice to something moving at last.
      Message 2 of 6 , Jul 6, 2009
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        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "johntyson@..." <johntyson@...> wrote:
        >
        > Over the weekend I mounted the printer on the rails and gave the control program a test run. Everything seems to work but I noticed two problems which have to be addressed. My stepper motor has no problem moving the printer but the motion is so violently jerky that the other end "bounces" back and forth. I'm going to have to modify my drive to drive both sides of the gantry to eliminate the racking (parts are on order). The other problem arises from the way I am pausing the printer during the recharge cycle. I am tricking the paper path sensor into thinking the paper is out which pauses the printer until I tell it that paper has been inserted. The problem is that the printer then tries to feed the paper about ½ inch and begins to print the next page immediately. I guess I'm going to have to mess with pin #11 on the printer cable to tell the computer that the printer is "busy" while I re-home the gantry.
        >
        > I uploaded a few more pictures of my progress, see John's 3DP in the photos section.
        >

        Cool! nice to something moving at last.
      • johntyson@bellsouth.net
        ... Thanks Alvaro, It was your blog that actualy turned me on to the idea of building my own 3DP and pointed me to this group.
        Message 3 of 6 , Jul 7, 2009
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          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "afogassa" <afogassa@...> wrote:
          >
          >> Cool! nice to something moving at last.
          >
          Thanks Alvaro, It was your blog that actualy turned me on to the idea of
          building my own 3DP and pointed me to this group.
        • johntyson@bellsouth.net
          Well I ve made the upgrade to the dual drive and fixed the bounce problem. I also went back to the drawing board and remade my DIY encoder. I noticed that
          Message 4 of 6 , Jul 21, 2009
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            Well I've made the upgrade to the dual drive and fixed the "bounce" problem. I also went back to the drawing board and remade my DIY encoder. I noticed that there was some play in the gear train which was causing my stepper to pick up some extra steps so I eliminated the printer gear train and attached an encoder wheel directly to the printer's stepper. It's a 7.5 degree motor so I made a wheel with 48 marks. Then I crunched some numbers and came up with the proper gear ratio to adjust the steps from the encoder to the proper distance at the drive pulley. I got lucky and found some RC car spur gears that were inexpensive and just the right ratio. After these changes I was able to successfully print several test pages that registered with each other.

            Now I'm working on the bins. I've used melamine shelving (doesn't need painting and has a smooth surface). I have a clearance problem on one side where the print head starts printing very close to the frame of the printer. I solved that by topping off that side of the bins with some aluminum angle.

            It took me about an hour with a hacksaw and dremel but I scavenged 2 Acme lead screws and nuts from some automotive scissor jacks that I picked up at the local junkyard. I have some surplus steppers with 18:1 gearing that I got from Allelectrinics.com a while back that will be perfect for this project.

            I've posted more progress photos so please check them out.
          • Brian D. W.
            Hey!  That s looking pretty nice.  I ve gotta get started on my printer.  Thanks for the photos, and the updates.   ... From: johntyson@bellsouth.net
            Message 5 of 6 , Jul 21, 2009
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              Hey!  That's looking pretty nice.  I've gotta get started on my printer.  Thanks for the photos, and the updates.
               


              --- On Tue, 7/21/09, johntyson@... <johntyson@...> wrote:

              From: johntyson@... <johntyson@...>
              Subject: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] More progress
              To: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Tuesday, July 21, 2009, 4:40 PM

               
              Well I've made the upgrade to the dual drive and fixed the "bounce" problem. I also went back to the drawing board and remade my DIY encoder. I noticed that there was some play in the gear train which was causing my stepper to pick up some extra steps so I eliminated the printer gear train and attached an encoder wheel directly to the printer's stepper. It's a 7.5 degree motor so I made a wheel with 48 marks. Then I crunched some numbers and came up with the proper gear ratio to adjust the steps from the encoder to the proper distance at the drive pulley. I got lucky and found some RC car spur gears that were inexpensive and just the right ratio. After these changes I was able to successfully print several test pages that registered with each other.

              Now I'm working on the bins. I've used melamine shelving (doesn't need painting and has a smooth surface). I have a clearance problem on one side where the print head starts printing very close to the frame of the printer. I solved that by topping off that side of the bins with some aluminum angle.

              It took me about an hour with a hacksaw and dremel but I scavenged 2 Acme lead screws and nuts from some automotive scissor jacks that I picked up at the local junkyard. I have some surplus steppers with 18:1 gearing that I got from Allelectrinics. com a while back that will be perfect for this project.

              I've posted more progress photos so please check them out.


            • afogassa
              ... Cool, pictures?
              Message 6 of 6 , Aug 5, 2009
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                --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "johntyson@..." <johntyson@...> wrote:
                >
                > Well I've made the upgrade to the dual drive and fixed the "bounce" problem. I also went back to the drawing board and remade my DIY encoder. I noticed that there was some play in the gear train which was causing my stepper to pick up some extra steps so I eliminated the printer gear train and attached an encoder wheel directly to the printer's stepper. It's a 7.5 degree motor so I made a wheel with 48 marks. Then I crunched some numbers and came up with the proper gear ratio to adjust the steps from the encoder to the proper distance at the drive pulley. I got lucky and found some RC car spur gears that were inexpensive and just the right ratio. After these changes I was able to successfully print several test pages that registered with each other.
                >
                > Now I'm working on the bins. I've used melamine shelving (doesn't need painting and has a smooth surface). I have a clearance problem on one side where the print head starts printing very close to the frame of the printer. I solved that by topping off that side of the bins with some aluminum angle.
                >
                > It took me about an hour with a hacksaw and dremel but I scavenged 2 Acme lead screws and nuts from some automotive scissor jacks that I picked up at the local junkyard. I have some surplus steppers with 18:1 gearing that I got from Allelectrinics.com a while back that will be perfect for this project.
                >
                > I've posted more progress photos so please check them out.
                >

                Cool, pictures?
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