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Re: What if

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  • johnrpm@ymail.com
    The origonal SLA back in the eighties was a uv lamp with a fibre optic mounted on a plotter, very much like the etch a sketch, so it would work, I have just
    Message 1 of 22 , Jun 7, 2009
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      The origonal SLA back in the eighties was a uv lamp with a fibre optic
      mounted on a plotter, very much like the etch a sketch, so it would work, I have just dismantled some dvd writers, some realy usefull optics that could be used for the etch a sketch, (the lasers can burn paper at the right focal length).

      Some time ago I visited rolls royce engines, they had an electon beam welder, it was in a box about 3 metres cube and the welds were on material 200mm thick, the whole box was pumped down to a vacuum, so yes it would need to be in a vacuum but that should not be to difficult, I have 2 vacuum pumps from the skip, an old edwards pump that will last forever and needed no attention, and a nearly new high speed pump that was used to pump down large laser tubes but needed a full clean out.

      What if we had a glass cube full of UV resin and 2 electron guns at 90 degrees to each other, where the two beams intersect the energy is enough to initiate the resin, but below the required energy level elsewhere, a bit like the way those glass blocks are laser etched, do you think this could work??????????

      Yes, quartz glass, thats what I was thinking of, thanks








      --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
      >
      > Well, i don't know how much slower an etch a sketch would be than a FDM.
      > But it would definitely be slower than an inkjet type printer and surely
      > slower than a hypothetical UV-LCD type.
      >
      > A while ago I was contributing with the Reprap folks, but they seemed
      > more interested pursuing the FDMs than my UV resins. Here is the link
      > for the UV-resins I made. It's all free as in speech :)
      >
      > http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?70,10142,11219#msg-11219
      >
      > Maybe I should make a copy of that thread elsewhere, as I'm not visiting
      > the site so often anymore.
      >
      > Also, the resins I developed were kinda viscous, I always thought that
      > some of the chemicals I used would also work fairly well with
      > Methylmetacrylate, which would make an ideal resin for inkjets (as it
      > has VERY low viscosity, something like acetone or ether)
      >
      > About electron beam curing, wouldn't the whole contraption need to be in
      > a vacuum?
      >
      >
      >
      > On Sat, 2009-06-06 at 22:52 +0000, johnrpm@... wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > uv resins are very expensive but uv inks and paints are reasonable,
      > > such as the paint used for screen print masks, here goes another idea,
      > > but difficult to do, use the flourescent powder as used in the lamps
      > > for photoresist units, and (here's the difficult bit) replace the
      > > front glass of a crt with glass that will pass uv (forget the
      > > name)coat it with the uv emitting powder, pull down a vacuum and it
      > > should emit uv?????, I remember seeing a site where someone made his
      > > own electron gun, and built a crude osciloscope tube, bicromated
      > > geletin was used in the wooburytype printing process by the
      > > victorians, this also used uv to cure it, I tried to copy it using a
      > > photographic enlarger and mercury lamp to make lithophanes, it sort of
      > > worked.
      > >
      > > the etch a sketch is an interesting idea, but would it be a bit slow?.
      > > would you share the uv home made formulation?.
      > > I thinks an electron beam also cures uv resin, (which is another
      > > idea).
      > >
      > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando Muñiz
      > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > How about using something like an Etch A Sketch
      > > > (http://www.howstuffworks.com/question317.htm), replacing the glass
      > > > surfaces with UV translucent plastic, that is. The Etch a sketch
      > > would
      > > > have to be transparent to UV and the inside powder would have to be
      > > UV
      > > > opaque. As it lays on the downside of the box, it doesn't need to be
      > > as
      > > > sticky as aluminum powder.
      > > > You would draw the layers one at a time on the Etch a Sketch, then
      > > > switch on the UV lamps that would shine through the contraption to
      > > the
      > > > UV sensible resin below.
      > > > I had some formulations of self made UV resins that were cheap
      > > compared
      > > > to the commercial stuff.
      > > > What's the price of those resins today?
      > > >
      > > > On Thu, 2009-06-04 at 07:09 +0000, johnrpm@ wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
      > > "halebahay"
      > > > > <halebahay@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
      > > "johnrpm@"
      > > > > <johnrpm@> wrote:
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Here is a video of how to hack a lcd screen,
      > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7lWqKHpGuc
      > > > > > > and make a projector, what if the projector had UV
      > > > > > > light, and using photosensitive resin a crude SLA
      > > > > > > could be built.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Somwhere I read that The UV will destroy the LCD cells, the more
      > > > > reliable is the DLP technology, it must be at 5000 lumines to be
      > > > > effective.
      > > > > >
      > > > > DLP would be perfect, one vendor uses them in their machines, but
      > > I
      > > > > was hoping for something affordable, but if as you say UV would
      > > > > destroy the cells in LCD panels then it would not work for long,
      > > > > shame.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
    • gsi11135
      To All: Post links in context AND in the links section with appropriate description. Thank you. Joseph Owner/Moderator
      Message 2 of 22 , Jun 12, 2009
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        To All:

        Post links in context AND in the links section with appropriate description.

        Thank you.

        Joseph
        Owner/Moderator



        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
        >
        > It's a matter of wattage per surface, so you would have to focus the
        > beam of a strong enough source on as tight a spot you can.
        > Usually you do that with expensive UV lasers, but I have seen that
        > there's UV-leds that have been developped recently with a high enough
        > output so that it was being used for curing.
        >
        > Of course, spectra and maximum emission peaks are critical in these
        > applications!
        > http://www.s-et.com/?gclid=CNy44sTU95oCFQ-A3godT0vfdw
        >
        >
        > On Sun, 2009-06-07 at 01:59 +0000, John Wasser wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > > Instead of creating a mask (using the Etch A Sketch device) and then
        > > passing UV through the mask you could use a UV light moved directly by
        > > the Etch A Sketch mechanism. You could then draw layers directly.
        > >
        > > I wonder how deep a layer of UV-curing ink you can cure with a UV LED.
        > >
        > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando Muñiz
        > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
        > > > How about using something like an Etch A Sketch
        > > > (http://www.howstuffworks.com/question317.htm), replacing the glass
        > > > surfaces with UV translucent plastic, that is. The Etch a sketch
        > > would
        > > > have to be transparent to UV and the inside powder would have to be
        > > UV
        > > > opaque. As it lays on the downside of the box, it doesn't need to be
        > > as
        > > > sticky as aluminum powder.
        > > > You would draw the layers one at a time on the Etch a Sketch, then
        > > > switch on the UV lamps that would shine through the contraption to
        > > the
        > > > UV sensible resin below.
        > > > I had some formulations of self made UV resins that were cheap
        > > compared
        > > > to the commercial stuff.
        > > > What's the price of those resins today?
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
      • gsi11135
        Fernando, Great info! If you could put this in a file and upload it to the files section with appropriate description would be great! Joseph Owner/Moderator
        Message 3 of 22 , Jun 12, 2009
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          Fernando,

          Great info!

          If you could put this in a file and upload it to the files section with appropriate description would be great!

          Joseph
          Owner/Moderator


          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
          >
          > OK, so here it goes.
          > This is from a thread I started on the RepRap forum last year.
          > I am sending it to thi slist as I think it's more relevant here.
          > ---------------------------------------------------------
          >
          > What do you need to make UV-curing resins?
          > Posted by: spota (IP Logged) (RepRap Guru)
          > Date: March 08, 2008 05:42AM
          >
          > What do you need for using UV-curing resins?
          >
          > In this thread I will list a number of materials you will need to make
          > use of UV-curing reins. I have decided to post this information here in
          > the forum for now, as it seems the place where it's guaranteed not to be
          > deleted and I can always link to in the future when asked these
          > questions, as well as being able to receive comments from people
          > engaging with me in experimenting this very promising technique.
          >
          > We can divide the list of materials in resins, chemicals and UV lamps.
          >
          > 1) The resins I am using are off the shelve products. They can be
          > Polyester, Epoxy or Acrylic/Alkydic resins. The catalyzers I will
          > discuss below should work with all these resins.
          >
          > 2) The chemicals that will compose the catalyzer will make the resins
          > harden under UV-light. Some of these chemicals will be photoinitiators
          > to start the curing process, others will be activators and accelerators
          > to make the curing reaction faster, others still will be stabilizers to
          > make the pot-life of the mixed resin longer.
          >
          > 3) UV-lamps are the light sources you will need to make the resin mixes
          > harden.
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > messageRe: What do you need for using UV-curing resins?
          > Posted by: spota (IP Logged) (RepRap Guru)
          > Date: March 08, 2008 05:43AM
          >
          > 1) Resins
          > * Polyester resins
          > These are cheap, very commonly available resins. They are, when not
          > mixed with fillers, clear and have the consistency of syrup, the
          > viscosity depending on the Styrene monomer solvent content it has. The
          > resin sold in shops usually comes with a dual component catalyzer,
          > generally Benzoylperoxide or MEKPeroxide. This catalyzer is of no use
          > for our UV-catalyzed mix. The resin usually also comes pre-accelerated.
          > This means it contains metal salts that accelerate the decomposition of
          > catalyzers. These cause the pot-life of the mixed resins to be lower.
          >
          > * Epoxy resins
          > Epoxy resins are usually more expensive resins than Polyester. They also
          > show better hardness properties as well as adhesion and less shrinkage.
          > The filler-free form has a similar viscosity to Polyester and is sold in
          > shops, as Polyester, with a dual component catalyzer, generally
          > Benzoylperoxide or MEK-Peroxide. This catalyzer is of no use for our
          > UV-catalyzed mix.
          >
          > * Acrylic/Alkydic resins
          > These are very varied in their composition and can also be initialized
          > by peroxide dual component catalyzers. Not every Acrylic resin is a
          > valid UV-curable resin. The higher reactivity ones are preferred, but
          > prices can be pretty steep for these resins.
          > Alkydic resins are used in common varnishes. The price is significantly
          > lower but the reactivity is lower too.
          > Both Acrylic and Alkydic resins need to be tested further for
          > standardization purposes.
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > messageRe: What do you need for using UV-curing resins?
          > Posted by: spota (IP Logged) (RepRap Guru)
          > Date: March 08, 2008 05:45AM
          >
          > 2) Catalyzer Chemicals
          >
          > These are the names of the chemicals used:
          > Benzophenone, CAS: 119-61-9 (+/- 44€ kg)
          > Benzil, CAS: 134-81-6 (35€ 500g)
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > messageRe: What do you need for using UV-curing resins?
          > Posted by: spota (IP Logged) (RepRap Guru)
          > Date: March 08, 2008 05:46AM
          >
          > 3) UV lamps
          >
          > Here I will discuss the source of UV lights that can be used for curing
          > the resins at hand.
          > The wavelength necessary for activating the photoinitiators is dependent
          > on the chemical nature of each photoinitiator.
          > In our case, Benzophenone, Benzil and Benzoinisobutylether are all
          > especially sensible to 2 wavelengths: 256nm and 365nm.
          >
          > 256nm UV-light is in the UV range generally described as UV-C (also
          > called germicidal, or EPROM erasing).
          > 365nm UV-light is in the UV range called UV-B (also called black light
          > or actinic).
          > Whatever lamps you use, it is important that they emit a high percentage
          > of their wattage in those bands.
          >
          > Sadly, the lamps able to emit in both peaks simultaneously are rather
          > expensive. They are called Medium-pressure mercury lamps and are in the
          > range of 200W upwards and require a special power source and cooling
          > assembly. They are also very effective and induce fast curing, but are
          > crippled with a very high price!
          >
          > There are also LEDs that have been developed lately that emit in these
          > wavelengths but I haven't tested them. They should work properly if the
          > beam is collimated enough so as to deliver powers in Watt/cm^2 high
          > enough to deliver fast curing.
          >
          > There may be powerful lasers in the ranges indicated but these are not
          > commonly available and are probably very expensive also.
          >
          > The solution I found to be best is to use 2 fluorescent lamps from well
          > known fabricators, as Philips, GE or Sylvania. The 365nm fluorescent
          > comes at around 5-10
          >
          > I'll attach the circuit diagram for the lamps I'm using. It's really
          > easy stuff: 5 cables to screw in and voila!
          >
          > As for the ballast to use for the lamp models above, here are the specs:
          > (I use the same ballast and base for both germicidal and black light
          > lamps)
          >
          > Ballast:
          > 230V/50Hz
          > 36W, 430mA, lambda 0.45, 4,5 microF
          >
          > Base and starter:
          > Just get the regular base with the regular starter, same stuff as your
          > ordinary fluo. Don't need to build one yourself!
          > Philips S10
          > 220/240V
          > 4-65W Single
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > messageRe: What do you need for using UV-curing resins?
          > Posted by: spota (IP Logged) (RepRap Guru)
          > Date: March 08, 2008 06:10AM
          >
          > 4) Recipes
          >
          > Here I will list a number of possible recipes for UV-curable resins.
          > The list below is just a start and I'm sure a wild variety of different
          > ones will emerge and evolve in time. I have created a small spreadsheet
          > to calculate the prices of these mixes. I will show the price as well.
          > Pot-life of all these resins can greatly be improved if they are kept
          > away in dark places and in opaque containers.
          >
          > * Best results yet! Excellent curing speed, great hardness and
          > toughness:
          > For 100g of final resin mix (RM)
          > 3g of Benzil
          > 1g of Benzoilisobutylether (BIsoBE)
          > 1g of MDEA
          > 0.5g of EDTA or 0.1g of Hydrochinone
          > complete to 100g with Polyester resin.
          > Cost of chemicals: 0.74
          >
          >
          >
          > On Sun, 2009-06-07 at 04:29 -0400, Boman33 wrote:
          > >
          > >
          > > Since I think it a good reference and it would be useful to have it
          > > complied into one post and it would be great if you could post it
          > > here.
          > >
          > > I took the freedom to change the thread name to match the current
          > > subject.
          > >
          > > Bertho
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > From:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
          > > [mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
          > > fernando
          > > Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2009 04:20
          > > To: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
          > > Subject: RE: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: What if
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > You, the missing info has been added. It was just a list of chemical
          > > order numbers and prices that were missing.
          > >
          > > Anyway, I have made a backup of the important parts of that thread so
          > > that I can always post it back somewhere if need be.
          > >
          > > Ask me if you have any questions!
          > > Sadly I moved from my old apartment to my girl-friends place and here
          > > I
          > > don't have the space to setup a lab anymore, but I still can recommend
          > > stuff to people willing to try out ideas.
          > >
          > > On Sun, 2009-06-07 at 04:01 -0400, Boman33 wrote:
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > Good info Fernando!
          > > >
          > > > Is the information complete now? There was some problem with missing
          > > > chemical info. See:
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > Oh so neat...
          > > > Somebody with writing credentials, acquired or hacked, has deleted
          > > the
          > > > info on the chemicals post (Nº3).
          > > > I guess it's about time I get the info from this thread somewhere
          > > > else, as I have the feeling this topic is not welcome here.
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > Reply: ... this wasn't a hacker but a software-bug - any special
          > > > character in the post causes a truncation so the text after is been
          > > > deleted sad smiley In the german forum all german umlauts ressulted
          > > > in 95% truncated/senseless posts angry smiley Nobody seems to be
          > > > able to repair this confused smiley
          > > > -----------------------
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
        • johnrpm@ymail.com
          ... Bought a very cheap digital photoframe to hack and see if this works, the resolution is not high, it can take sd cards but also usb sticks and can be set
          Message 4 of 22 , Jun 16, 2009
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            --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "halebahay" <halebahay@...> wrote:
            >
            > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "johnrpm@" <johnrpm@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Here is a video of how to hack a lcd screen,
            > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7lWqKHpGuc
            > > and make a projector, what if the projector had UV
            > > light, and using photosensitive resin a crude SLA
            > > could be built.
            > >
            >
            > Somwhere I read that The UV will destroy the LCD cells, the more reliable is the DLP technology, it must be at 5000 lumines to be effective.
            >

            Bought a very cheap digital photoframe to hack and see if this works,
            the resolution is not high, it can take sd cards but also usb sticks and can be set to display images in time slots or by manual mode, next I need to get a mercury lamp and see how long it lasts subjected to UV.
          • Fernando Muñiz
            Maybe you should try with something less energetic than an Mercury lamp (also less expensive) For this resin: http://www.suscomp.com/resins.htm you may use
            Message 5 of 22 , Jun 16, 2009
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              Maybe you should try with something less energetic than an Mercury lamp (also less expensive)

              For this resin: http://www.suscomp.com/resins.htm you may use less energetic UVA (http://members.misty.com/don/uvbulb.html)

              You can find UV-A lamps and their spectra here:
              http://www.mv.helsinki.fi/aphalo/photobio/lamps.html
              http://prolight.info/philips.html

              Of course, you never know what UV range your photoframe LCD will react to...


              On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 07:48 +0000, johnrpm@... wrote:


              --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "halebahay" <halebahay@...> wrote:
              >
              > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "johnrpm@" <johnrpm@> wrote:
              > >
              > > Here is a video of how to hack a lcd screen,
              > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7lWqKHpGuc
              > > and make a projector, what if the projector had UV
              > > light, and using photosensitive resin a crude SLA
              > > could be built.
              > >
              >
              > Somwhere I read that The UV will destroy the LCD cells, the more reliable is the DLP technology, it must be at 5000 lumines to be effective.
              >

              Bought a very cheap digital photoframe to hack and see if this works,
              the resolution is not high, it can take sd cards but also usb sticks and can be set to display images in time slots or by manual mode, next I need to get a mercury lamp and see how long it lasts subjected to UV.




            • johnrpm@ymail.com
              Thanks for the links Fernando, After writing the post I realized that I could use some uv tubes from a unit I have for making circuit boards, at present I use
              Message 6 of 22 , Jun 16, 2009
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                Thanks for the links Fernando,
                After writing the post I realized that I could use some uv tubes
                from a unit I have for making circuit boards, at present I use a laser printer and iron method to make circuit boards, but the photoframe and uv method,(if it has the resolution) may work for this also, it may be that the lcd panel will not pass the uv light, depends on what material its made from?, or it may not last for more than a few minutes?, but thats part of the fun of hacking things, will let you know how things go.






                --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando Muñiz <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                >
                > Maybe you should try with something less energetic than an Mercury lamp
                > (also less expensive)
                >
                > For this resin: http://www.suscomp.com/resins.htm you may use less
                > energetic UVA (http://members.misty.com/don/uvbulb.html)
                >
                > You can find UV-A lamps and their spectra here:
                > http://www.mv.helsinki.fi/aphalo/photobio/lamps.html
                > http://prolight.info/philips.html
                >
                > Of course, you never know what UV range your photoframe LCD will react
                > to...
                >
                >
                > On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 07:48 +0000, johnrpm@... wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "halebahay"
                > > <halebahay@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "johnrpm@"
                > > <johnrpm@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > Here is a video of how to hack a lcd screen,
                > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7lWqKHpGuc
                > > > > and make a projector, what if the projector had UV
                > > > > light, and using photosensitive resin a crude SLA
                > > > > could be built.
                > > > >
                > > >
                > > > Somwhere I read that The UV will destroy the LCD cells, the more
                > > reliable is the DLP technology, it must be at 5000 lumines to be
                > > effective.
                > > >
                > >
                > > Bought a very cheap digital photoframe to hack and see if this works,
                > > the resolution is not high, it can take sd cards but also usb sticks
                > > and can be set to display images in time slots or by manual mode, next
                > > I need to get a mercury lamp and see how long it lasts subjected to
                > > UV.
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >
              • Fernando Muñiz
                If the lcd panel is made of regular glass it will filter out all UV ranges. Transparent plastics usually let UV through in different amounts, unless they have
                Message 7 of 22 , Jun 16, 2009
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                  If the lcd panel is made of regular glass it will filter out all UV ranges.
                  Transparent plastics usually let UV through in different amounts, unless they have been added UV filters (likely)
                  And the big IF here is if the LCD crystals will take the battering from UV radiation for long.

                  Let's say that for experiment sake, this is really interesting, but It's good that the photoframe was cheap... :)

                  On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 10:05 +0000, johnrpm@... wrote:


                  Thanks for the links Fernando,
                  After writing the post I realized that I could use some uv tubes
                  from a unit I have for making circuit boards, at present I use a laser printer and iron method to make circuit boards, but the photoframe and uv method,(if it has the resolution) may work for this also, it may be that the lcd panel will not pass the uv light, depends on what material its made from?, or it may not last for more than a few minutes?, but thats part of the fun of hacking things, will let you know how things go.

                  --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando Muñiz <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Maybe you should try with something less energetic than an Mercury lamp
                  > (also less expensive)
                  >
                  > For this resin: http://www.suscomp.com/resins.htm you may use less
                  > energetic UVA (http://members.misty.com/don/uvbulb.html)
                  >
                  > You can find UV-A lamps and their spectra here:
                  > http://www.mv.helsinki.fi/aphalo/photobio/lamps.html
                  > http://prolight.info/philips.html
                  >
                  > Of course, you never know what UV range your photoframe LCD will react
                  > to...
                  >
                  >
                  > On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 07:48 +0000, johnrpm@... wrote:
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "halebahay"
                  > > <halebahay@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "johnrpm@"
                  > > <johnrpm@> wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Here is a video of how to hack a lcd screen,
                  > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7lWqKHpGuc
                  > > > > and make a projector, what if the projector had UV
                  > > > > light, and using photosensitive resin a crude SLA
                  > > > > could be built.
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > Somwhere I read that The UV will destroy the LCD cells, the more
                  > > reliable is the DLP technology, it must be at 5000 lumines to be
                  > > effective.
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > > Bought a very cheap digital photoframe to hack and see if this works,
                  > > the resolution is not high, it can take sd cards but also usb sticks
                  > > and can be set to display images in time slots or by manual mode, next
                  > > I need to get a mercury lamp and see how long it lasts subjected to
                  > > UV.
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >




                • Boman33
                  Thanks Fernando, Very good links that I have saved for the future. Bertho From: Fernando Muñiz Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 05:21 Maybe you should try with
                  Message 8 of 22 , Jun 16, 2009
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                    Thanks Fernando,

                    Very good links that I have saved for the future.

                    Bertho

                     

                     

                    From: Fernando Muñiz    Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 05:21
                    Maybe you should try with something less energetic than an Mercury lamp (also less expensive)

                    For this resin: http://www.suscomp.com/resins.htm you may use less energetic UVA

                     

                    (http://members.misty.com/don/uvbulb.html)

                    You can find UV-A lamps and their spectra here:
                    http://www.mv.helsinki.fi/aphalo/photobio/lamps.html
                    http://prolight.info/philips.html

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