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DLP printer BOM update

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  • Spacecaptain
    The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a HP-VP6121 DLP projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
    Message 1 of 19 , Aug 5, 2011
      The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a HP-VP6121 DLP
      projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
      http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85

      Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up before buying.
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
      Seems pretty straight forward.

      I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too, but my first
      task for the projector will be to test the resins I have prepared, and
      at the same time calibrate my test rig.
    • pzamov
      @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at first to see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the curing time of the resin.
      Message 2 of 19 , Aug 6, 2011
        @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at first to see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the curing time of the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of the resin is with a bluish light + UV.

        http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7

        otherwise congrats!

        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Spacecaptain <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
        >
        > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a HP-VP6121 DLP
        > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
        > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
        >
        > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up before buying.
        > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
        > Seems pretty straight forward.
        >
        > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too, but my first
        > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have prepared, and
        > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
        >
      • Fernando
        I don t think that would make a lot of sense. The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a tailor made bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or
        Message 3 of 19 , Aug 6, 2011
          I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
          The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a tailor made
          bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to remove IR.

          The color wheel in our case does not only filter the Blue/Green/Red+IR,
          it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we decide to
          shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining roughly 1/3
          of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The rest of the
          time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a red light to
          the heatsink.

          By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering the whole
          punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the time*. The
          only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color wheel in it's
          red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and help
          maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...

          On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
          >
          > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at first to
          > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the curing time of
          > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of the resin
          > is with a bluish light + UV.
          >
          > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
          >
          > otherwise congrats!
          >
          > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Spacecaptain
          > <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
          > >
          > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a HP-VP6121 DLP
          > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
          > >
          > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
          > >
          > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up before
          > buying.
          > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
          > > Seems pretty straight forward.
          > >
          > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too, but my
          > first
          > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have prepared,
          > and
          > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
        • Fernando
          As per TI s DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it s life expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the color wheel because it makes
          Message 4 of 19 , Aug 6, 2011
            As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
            expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the color
            wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you undertsand
            how the DLP projector works (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
            20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%20design%
            20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why you
            wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the total
            energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all of the
            time* not just 1/3 of the time.
            If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3, that's up to
            you.

            On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
            >
            > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
            > They DO use a color wheel.
            > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
            > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
            > advantageous.
            > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so any
            > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD temperature. If
            > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to worry
            > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb housing
            > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP lamp is
            > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal lubricants and
            > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the reflective
            > element...ITS THE UV.
            >
            > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying anything....Using a
            > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside your
            > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
            > necessary.
            >
            > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
            > <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
            > >
            > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
            > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a tailor made
            > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to remove IR.
            > >
            > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the Blue/Green/Red
            > +IR,
            > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we decide to
            > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining roughly
            > 1/3
            > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The rest of the
            > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a red light
            > to
            > > the heatsink.
            > >
            > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering the whole
            > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the time*. The
            > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color wheel in
            > it's
            > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and help
            > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
            > >
            > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
            > > >
            > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at first
            > to
            > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the curing
            > time of
            > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of the
            > resin
            > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
            > > >
            > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
            > > >
            > > > otherwise congrats!
            > > >
            > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
            > Spacecaptain
            > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a HP-VP6121
            > DLP
            > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
            > > > >
            > > >
            > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
            > > > >
            > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up before
            > > > buying.
            > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
            > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
            > > > >
            > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too, but my
            > > > first
            > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
            > prepared,
            > > > and
            > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
            > > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
          • pzamov
            You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for focusing the projector.
            Message 5 of 19 , Aug 6, 2011
              You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for focusing the projector.

              just a thought.

              If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the motor, otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).


              --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
              >
              > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
              > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the color
              > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you undertsand
              > how the DLP projector works (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
              > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%20design%
              > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why you
              > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the total
              > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all of the
              > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
              > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3, that's up to
              > you.
              >
              > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
              > >
              > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
              > > They DO use a color wheel.
              > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
              > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
              > > advantageous.
              > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so any
              > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD temperature. If
              > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to worry
              > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb housing
              > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP lamp is
              > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal lubricants and
              > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the reflective
              > > element...ITS THE UV.
              > >
              > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying anything....Using a
              > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside your
              > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
              > > necessary.
              > >
              > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
              > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
              > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a tailor made
              > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to remove IR.
              > > >
              > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the Blue/Green/Red
              > > +IR,
              > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we decide to
              > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining roughly
              > > 1/3
              > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The rest of the
              > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a red light
              > > to
              > > > the heatsink.
              > > >
              > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering the whole
              > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the time*. The
              > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color wheel in
              > > it's
              > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and help
              > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
              > > >
              > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
              > > > >
              > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at first
              > > to
              > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the curing
              > > time of
              > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of the
              > > resin
              > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
              > > > >
              > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
              > > > >
              > > > > otherwise congrats!
              > > > >
              > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
              > > Spacecaptain
              > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
              > > > > >
              > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a HP-VP6121
              > > DLP
              > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
              > > > > >
              > > > >
              > > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up before
              > > > > buying.
              > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
              > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too, but my
              > > > > first
              > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
              > > prepared,
              > > > > and
              > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
              > > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              >
            • Fernando
              Yes, I m kind of expecting this error situation to occur. Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter? I like the idea of using the red to help focus. Also,
              Message 6 of 19 , Aug 6, 2011
                Yes, I'm kind of expecting this error situation to occur.
                Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter?
                I like the idea of using the red to help focus.

                Also, there usually is a "clear" section in the color wheel.
                I wonder if you could freeze it in that position, or in the blue
                position. Those two would be worth a try.
                Otherwise, I will just remove the color wheel from the light path but
                leave it connected and spinning.

                On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 20:35 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                >
                > You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs
                > ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for
                > focusing the projector.
                >
                > just a thought.
                >
                > If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color
                > wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the motor,
                > otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).
                >
                > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                > <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                > >
                > > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
                > > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the color
                > > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you
                > undertsand
                > > how the DLP projector works
                > (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
                > > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%
                > 20design%
                > > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why you
                > > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the total
                > > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all of
                > the
                > > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
                > > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3, that's up
                > to
                > > you.
                > >
                > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                > > >
                > > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
                > > > They DO use a color wheel.
                > > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
                > > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
                > > > advantageous.
                > > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so any
                > > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD
                > temperature. If
                > > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to worry
                > > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb housing
                > > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP lamp
                > is
                > > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal lubricants
                > and
                > > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the
                > reflective
                > > > element...ITS THE UV.
                > > >
                > > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying anything....Using
                > a
                > > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside your
                > > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
                > > > necessary.
                > > >
                > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
                > > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a tailor
                > made
                > > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to remove
                > IR.
                > > > >
                > > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the
                > Blue/Green/Red
                > > > +IR,
                > > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we decide
                > to
                > > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining
                > roughly
                > > > 1/3
                > > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The rest of
                > the
                > > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a red
                > light
                > > > to
                > > > > the heatsink.
                > > > >
                > > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering the
                > whole
                > > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the time*.
                > The
                > > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color wheel
                > in
                > > > it's
                > > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and help
                > > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
                > > > >
                > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                > > > > >
                > > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at
                > first
                > > > to
                > > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the curing
                > > > time of
                > > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of the
                > > > resin
                > > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
                > > > > >
                > > > > > otherwise congrats!
                > > > > >
                > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                > > > Spacecaptain
                > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a
                > HP-VP6121
                > > > DLP
                > > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
                > > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > >
                > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up
                > before
                > > > > > buying.
                > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
                > > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too, but
                > my
                > > > > > first
                > > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
                > > > prepared,
                > > > > > and
                > > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
                > > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
              • pzamov
                @Fernando http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more uses to
                Message 7 of 19 , Aug 7, 2011
                  @Fernando

                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more uses to the color wheel.

                  Hmm... just to summarize:

                  Red - to focus
                  Green - curing resin
                  Blue - curing resin

                  Different property resin materials cured by different wavelength absorbing fillers - maybe.

                  You can't get rid of me... LOL :-D

                  --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Yes, I'm kind of expecting this error situation to occur.
                  > Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter?
                  > I like the idea of using the red to help focus.
                  >
                  > Also, there usually is a "clear" section in the color wheel.
                  > I wonder if you could freeze it in that position, or in the blue
                  > position. Those two would be worth a try.
                  > Otherwise, I will just remove the color wheel from the light path but
                  > leave it connected and spinning.
                  >
                  > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 20:35 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                  > >
                  > > You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs
                  > > ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for
                  > > focusing the projector.
                  > >
                  > > just a thought.
                  > >
                  > > If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color
                  > > wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the motor,
                  > > otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).
                  > >
                  > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                  > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
                  > > > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the color
                  > > > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you
                  > > undertsand
                  > > > how the DLP projector works
                  > > (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
                  > > > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%
                  > > 20design%
                  > > > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why you
                  > > > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the total
                  > > > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all of
                  > > the
                  > > > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
                  > > > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3, that's up
                  > > to
                  > > > you.
                  > > >
                  > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
                  > > > > They DO use a color wheel.
                  > > > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
                  > > > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
                  > > > > advantageous.
                  > > > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so any
                  > > > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD
                  > > temperature. If
                  > > > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to worry
                  > > > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb housing
                  > > > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP lamp
                  > > is
                  > > > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal lubricants
                  > > and
                  > > > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the
                  > > reflective
                  > > > > element...ITS THE UV.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying anything....Using
                  > > a
                  > > > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside your
                  > > > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
                  > > > > necessary.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                  > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
                  > > > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a tailor
                  > > made
                  > > > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to remove
                  > > IR.
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the
                  > > Blue/Green/Red
                  > > > > +IR,
                  > > > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we decide
                  > > to
                  > > > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining
                  > > roughly
                  > > > > 1/3
                  > > > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The rest of
                  > > the
                  > > > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a red
                  > > light
                  > > > > to
                  > > > > > the heatsink.
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering the
                  > > whole
                  > > > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the time*.
                  > > The
                  > > > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color wheel
                  > > in
                  > > > > it's
                  > > > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and help
                  > > > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at
                  > > first
                  > > > > to
                  > > > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the curing
                  > > > > time of
                  > > > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of the
                  > > > > resin
                  > > > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > otherwise congrats!
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                  > > > > Spacecaptain
                  > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                  > > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a
                  > > HP-VP6121
                  > > > > DLP
                  > > > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
                  > > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
                  > > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up
                  > > before
                  > > > > > > buying.
                  > > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
                  > > > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
                  > > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too, but
                  > > my
                  > > > > > > first
                  > > > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
                  > > > > prepared,
                  > > > > > > and
                  > > > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
                  > > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >
                • Fernando
                  I have been giving this some thought and there may be a way to get the best of both worlds, although the implementation may not be easy: How about using the
                  Message 8 of 19 , Aug 7, 2011
                    I have been giving this some thought and there may be a way to get the
                    best of both worlds, although the implementation may not be easy:
                    How about using the color wheel not as a continuously spinning wheel,
                    but as a selectable filter? You would project a black & white image but
                    only get red/blue/green/white output, depending on which position of the
                    wheel you would stop the wheel at.
                    This way we could harness all the capacities you mention below: red for
                    aiming and focusing, blue/green/clear for curing at different
                    wavelengths and with resin systems such as BAPO in the blue, Irgacure
                    784 or H-Nu535 in the green with greater cure depths.

                    One other concern here would be sure that you are not frying your color
                    wheel due to 3 or more fold light exposure on a given wheel sector than
                    nominal and no air flow over the surface (static wheel). I know dichroic
                    color wheels exist for DLP printers, I just don't know if all of them
                    use these. Wouldn't these handle high temperatures better?

                    A work-around to achieve a similar result would be to make 3x faster
                    resins, which may not be impossible. This way you could use a spinning
                    color-wheel as originally intended.

                    You could of course also replace the color wheel with a slot held color
                    filter that you would change depending on the application you would
                    want.

                    Just some random canicular summer night ideas...

                    On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 18:21 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov"
                    > <pzamov@...> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > @Fernando
                    > >
                    > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material
                    > being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more
                    > uses to the color wheel.
                    > >
                    > > Hmm... just to summarize:
                    > >
                    > > Red - to focus
                    > > Green - curing resin
                    > > Blue - curing resin
                    > >
                    > > Different property resin materials cured by different wavelength
                    > absorbing fillers - maybe.
                    > >
                    >
                    > The light orange hue of the resulting part might be the result of
                    > Irgacure 784...and given the green spike UHP bulbs emit..combined
                    > with..I784 use at 532nm in holography...its more reactive to visible
                    > light then 819 or 369.
                    >
                    > while I understand the 1/3 of the time argument....different
                    > wavelength of light have different penetrative values depending on the
                    > various components of the resin mix...targeting specific wavelengths
                    > allows a degree of controlability....if you were only intending to use
                    > a single resin type then I would agree that a single filter wheel
                    > would be speed advantageous.....but leaving the projector alone does
                    > allow a degree of flexibility that might be worth the tradeoff.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                  • Fernando
                    One should add that although we are clearly seeing green light shining through the resin, this could not only be because only green light is being used but
                    Message 9 of 19 , Aug 7, 2011
                      One should add that although we are clearly seeing green light shining
                      through the resin, this could not only be because only green light is
                      being used but because only the green part of the light is being let
                      through by the resin system.
                      In other words, the green light is not absorbed and this could be the
                      Sudan I dye and BAPO filtering out the red and blue. You can see how the
                      resin is a deep amber colored liquid, just as you would expect from such
                      a composition. A green light active system should have a magenta sheen
                      to it.
                      It's hard to speculate from these pictures only. It would be cool to
                      hear from people using Etek what this green light is all about!


                      On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 17:57 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                      >
                      > @Fernando
                      >
                      > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material
                      > being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more
                      > uses to the color wheel.
                      >
                      > Hmm... just to summarize:
                      >
                      > Red - to focus
                      > Green - curing resin
                      > Blue - curing resin
                      >
                      > Different property resin materials cured by different wavelength
                      > absorbing fillers - maybe.
                      >
                      > You can't get rid of me... LOL :-D
                      >
                      > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                      > <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > Yes, I'm kind of expecting this error situation to occur.
                      > > Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter?
                      > > I like the idea of using the red to help focus.
                      > >
                      > > Also, there usually is a "clear" section in the color wheel.
                      > > I wonder if you could freeze it in that position, or in the blue
                      > > position. Those two would be worth a try.
                      > > Otherwise, I will just remove the color wheel from the light path
                      > but
                      > > leave it connected and spinning.
                      > >
                      > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 20:35 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs
                      > > > ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for
                      > > > focusing the projector.
                      > > >
                      > > > just a thought.
                      > > >
                      > > > If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color
                      > > > wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the
                      > motor,
                      > > > otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).
                      > > >
                      > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                      > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                      > > > >
                      > > > > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
                      > > > > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the
                      > color
                      > > > > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you
                      > > > undertsand
                      > > > > how the DLP projector works
                      > > > (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
                      > > > > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%
                      > > > 20design%
                      > > > > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why
                      > you
                      > > > > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the
                      > total
                      > > > > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all
                      > of
                      > > > the
                      > > > > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
                      > > > > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3,
                      > that's up
                      > > > to
                      > > > > you.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
                      > > > > > They DO use a color wheel.
                      > > > > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
                      > > > > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
                      > > > > > advantageous.
                      > > > > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so
                      > any
                      > > > > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD
                      > > > temperature. If
                      > > > > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to
                      > worry
                      > > > > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb
                      > housing
                      > > > > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP
                      > lamp
                      > > > is
                      > > > > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal
                      > lubricants
                      > > > and
                      > > > > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the
                      > > > reflective
                      > > > > > element...ITS THE UV.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying
                      > anything....Using
                      > > > a
                      > > > > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside
                      > your
                      > > > > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
                      > > > > > necessary.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                      > Fernando
                      > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
                      > > > > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a
                      > tailor
                      > > > made
                      > > > > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to
                      > remove
                      > > > IR.
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the
                      > > > Blue/Green/Red
                      > > > > > +IR,
                      > > > > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we
                      > decide
                      > > > to
                      > > > > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining
                      > > > roughly
                      > > > > > 1/3
                      > > > > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The
                      > rest of
                      > > > the
                      > > > > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a
                      > red
                      > > > light
                      > > > > > to
                      > > > > > > the heatsink.
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering
                      > the
                      > > > whole
                      > > > > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the
                      > time*.
                      > > > The
                      > > > > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color
                      > wheel
                      > > > in
                      > > > > > it's
                      > > > > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and
                      > help
                      > > > > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at
                      > > > first
                      > > > > > to
                      > > > > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the
                      > curing
                      > > > > > time of
                      > > > > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of
                      > the
                      > > > > > resin
                      > > > > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > otherwise congrats!
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                      > > > > > Spacecaptain
                      > > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a
                      > > > HP-VP6121
                      > > > > > DLP
                      > > > > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > >
                      > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up
                      > > > before
                      > > > > > > > buying.
                      > > > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
                      > > > > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too,
                      > but
                      > > > my
                      > > > > > > > first
                      > > > > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
                      > > > > > prepared,
                      > > > > > > > and
                      > > > > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                    • pzamov
                      The E-tec machines have a software updates ( I guess a color change and intensity change and a few other settings ) and a VAT change for the different resins.
                      Message 10 of 19 , Aug 7, 2011
                        The E-tec machines have a software updates ( I guess a color change and intensity change and a few other settings ) and a VAT change for the different resins. There is also different panes of glass between the projector lens and the VAT that I have seen in videos to have a dichroic coating depending on the machine main function.

                        I have also looked up a few Hearing Aid Resins from Loctite(Henkel) which look fantastic:
                        http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/LT3380_Resinaid_Brochure.pdf
                        They have a 0.762mm for 3-10 second exposure.

                        Just need to find sources for them.


                        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > One should add that although we are clearly seeing green light shining
                        > through the resin, this could not only be because only green light is
                        > being used but because only the green part of the light is being let
                        > through by the resin system.
                        > In other words, the green light is not absorbed and this could be the
                        > Sudan I dye and BAPO filtering out the red and blue. You can see how the
                        > resin is a deep amber colored liquid, just as you would expect from such
                        > a composition. A green light active system should have a magenta sheen
                        > to it.
                        > It's hard to speculate from these pictures only. It would be cool to
                        > hear from people using Etek what this green light is all about!
                        >
                        >
                        > On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 17:57 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                        > >
                        > > @Fernando
                        > >
                        > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material
                        > > being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more
                        > > uses to the color wheel.
                        > >
                        > > Hmm... just to summarize:
                        > >
                        > > Red - to focus
                        > > Green - curing resin
                        > > Blue - curing resin
                        > >
                        > > Different property resin materials cured by different wavelength
                        > > absorbing fillers - maybe.
                        > >
                        > > You can't get rid of me... LOL :-D
                        > >
                        > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                        > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > Yes, I'm kind of expecting this error situation to occur.
                        > > > Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter?
                        > > > I like the idea of using the red to help focus.
                        > > >
                        > > > Also, there usually is a "clear" section in the color wheel.
                        > > > I wonder if you could freeze it in that position, or in the blue
                        > > > position. Those two would be worth a try.
                        > > > Otherwise, I will just remove the color wheel from the light path
                        > > but
                        > > > leave it connected and spinning.
                        > > >
                        > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 20:35 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                        > > > >
                        > > > > You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs
                        > > > > ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for
                        > > > > focusing the projector.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > just a thought.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color
                        > > > > wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the
                        > > motor,
                        > > > > otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).
                        > > > >
                        > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                        > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
                        > > > > > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the
                        > > color
                        > > > > > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you
                        > > > > undertsand
                        > > > > > how the DLP projector works
                        > > > > (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
                        > > > > > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%
                        > > > > 20design%
                        > > > > > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why
                        > > you
                        > > > > > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the
                        > > total
                        > > > > > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all
                        > > of
                        > > > > the
                        > > > > > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
                        > > > > > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3,
                        > > that's up
                        > > > > to
                        > > > > > you.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
                        > > > > > > They DO use a color wheel.
                        > > > > > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
                        > > > > > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
                        > > > > > > advantageous.
                        > > > > > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so
                        > > any
                        > > > > > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD
                        > > > > temperature. If
                        > > > > > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to
                        > > worry
                        > > > > > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb
                        > > housing
                        > > > > > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP
                        > > lamp
                        > > > > is
                        > > > > > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal
                        > > lubricants
                        > > > > and
                        > > > > > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the
                        > > > > reflective
                        > > > > > > element...ITS THE UV.
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying
                        > > anything....Using
                        > > > > a
                        > > > > > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside
                        > > your
                        > > > > > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
                        > > > > > > necessary.
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                        > > Fernando
                        > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
                        > > > > > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a
                        > > tailor
                        > > > > made
                        > > > > > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to
                        > > remove
                        > > > > IR.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the
                        > > > > Blue/Green/Red
                        > > > > > > +IR,
                        > > > > > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we
                        > > decide
                        > > > > to
                        > > > > > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining
                        > > > > roughly
                        > > > > > > 1/3
                        > > > > > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The
                        > > rest of
                        > > > > the
                        > > > > > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a
                        > > red
                        > > > > light
                        > > > > > > to
                        > > > > > > > the heatsink.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering
                        > > the
                        > > > > whole
                        > > > > > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the
                        > > time*.
                        > > > > The
                        > > > > > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color
                        > > wheel
                        > > > > in
                        > > > > > > it's
                        > > > > > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and
                        > > help
                        > > > > > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at
                        > > > > first
                        > > > > > > to
                        > > > > > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the
                        > > curing
                        > > > > > > time of
                        > > > > > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of
                        > > the
                        > > > > > > resin
                        > > > > > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > otherwise congrats!
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                        > > > > > > Spacecaptain
                        > > > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                        > > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a
                        > > > > HP-VP6121
                        > > > > > > DLP
                        > > > > > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
                        > > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
                        > > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up
                        > > > > before
                        > > > > > > > > buying.
                        > > > > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
                        > > > > > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
                        > > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too,
                        > > but
                        > > > > my
                        > > > > > > > > first
                        > > > > > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
                        > > > > > > prepared,
                        > > > > > > > > and
                        > > > > > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
                        > > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        >
                      • Spacecaptain
                        It seems that E-tec is making a lot of interesting design decisions: dicroic filters after the lamp and in the VAT? That must be... expensive? Why not do it
                        Message 11 of 19 , Aug 8, 2011
                          It seems that E-tec is making a lot of 'interesting' design decisions: dicroic filters after the lamp and in the VAT?
                          That must be... expensive? Why not do it while the beam is smaller, and before it carries any image information?

                          Well anyway, this is now proof that some color filtering happens probably to address different photoinitiator/filler/pigmentation issues in the resin.

                          I for my side will be looking into blue dichroic filters like the ones used in laser manipulation:
                          http://stores.ebay.com/OneStopLaserShop/_i.html?_fsub=20656239

                          But that will be later, when I have other things settled and well tested.

                          Cheers for the info on Loctite resin! Lets try and find a quotation for a quart

                          On 08/08/2011 08:47 AM, pzamov wrote:
                           

                          The E-tec machines have a software updates ( I guess a color change and intensity change and a few other settings ) and a VAT change for the different resins. There is also different panes of glass between the projector lens and the VAT that I have seen in videos to have a dichroic coating depending on the machine main function.

                          I have also looked up a few Hearing Aid Resins from Loctite(Henkel) which look fantastic:
                          http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/LT3380_Resinaid_Brochure.pdf
                          They have a 0.762mm for 3-10 second exposure.

                          Just need to find sources for them.

                          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > One should add that although we are clearly seeing green light shining
                          > through the resin, this could not only be because only green light is
                          > being used but because only the green part of the light is being let
                          > through by the resin system.
                          > In other words, the green light is not absorbed and this could be the
                          > Sudan I dye and BAPO filtering out the red and blue. You can see how the
                          > resin is a deep amber colored liquid, just as you would expect from such
                          > a composition. A green light active system should have a magenta sheen
                          > to it.
                          > It's hard to speculate from these pictures only. It would be cool to
                          > hear from people using Etek what this green light is all about!
                          >
                          >
                          > On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 17:57 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                          > >
                          > > @Fernando
                          > >
                          > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material
                          > > being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more
                          > > uses to the color wheel.
                          > >
                          > > Hmm... just to summarize:
                          > >
                          > > Red - to focus
                          > > Green - curing resin
                          > > Blue - curing resin
                          > >
                          > > Different property resin materials cured by different wavelength
                          > > absorbing fillers - maybe.
                          > >
                          > > You can't get rid of me... LOL :-D
                          > >
                          > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                          > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > Yes, I'm kind of expecting this error situation to occur.
                          > > > Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter?
                          > > > I like the idea of using the red to help focus.
                          > > >
                          > > > Also, there usually is a "clear" section in the color wheel.
                          > > > I wonder if you could freeze it in that position, or in the blue
                          > > > position. Those two would be worth a try.
                          > > > Otherwise, I will just remove the color wheel from the light path
                          > > but
                          > > > leave it connected and spinning.
                          > > >
                          > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 20:35 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                          > > > >
                          > > > > You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs
                          > > > > ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for
                          > > > > focusing the projector.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > just a thought.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color
                          > > > > wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the
                          > > motor,
                          > > > > otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).
                          > > > >
                          > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Fernando
                          > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
                          > > > > > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the
                          > > color
                          > > > > > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you
                          > > > > undertsand
                          > > > > > how the DLP projector works
                          > > > > (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
                          > > > > > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%
                          > > > > 20design%
                          > > > > > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why
                          > > you
                          > > > > > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the
                          > > total
                          > > > > > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all
                          > > of
                          > > > > the
                          > > > > > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
                          > > > > > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3,
                          > > that's up
                          > > > > to
                          > > > > > you.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
                          > > > > > > They DO use a color wheel.
                          > > > > > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
                          > > > > > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
                          > > > > > > advantageous.
                          > > > > > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so
                          > > any
                          > > > > > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD
                          > > > > temperature. If
                          > > > > > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to
                          > > worry
                          > > > > > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb
                          > > housing
                          > > > > > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP
                          > > lamp
                          > > > > is
                          > > > > > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal
                          > > lubricants
                          > > > > and
                          > > > > > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the
                          > > > > reflective
                          > > > > > > element...ITS THE UV.
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying
                          > > anything....Using
                          > > > > a
                          > > > > > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside
                          > > your
                          > > > > > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
                          > > > > > > necessary.
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                          > > Fernando
                          > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
                          > > > > > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a
                          > > tailor
                          > > > > made
                          > > > > > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to
                          > > remove
                          > > > > IR.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the
                          > > > > Blue/Green/Red
                          > > > > > > +IR,
                          > > > > > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we
                          > > decide
                          > > > > to
                          > > > > > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining
                          > > > > roughly
                          > > > > > > 1/3
                          > > > > > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The
                          > > rest of
                          > > > > the
                          > > > > > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a
                          > > red
                          > > > > light
                          > > > > > > to
                          > > > > > > > the heatsink.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering
                          > > the
                          > > > > whole
                          > > > > > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the
                          > > time*.
                          > > > > The
                          > > > > > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color
                          > > wheel
                          > > > > in
                          > > > > > > it's
                          > > > > > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and
                          > > help
                          > > > > > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at
                          > > > > first
                          > > > > > > to
                          > > > > > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the
                          > > curing
                          > > > > > > time of
                          > > > > > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of
                          > > the
                          > > > > > > resin
                          > > > > > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > otherwise congrats!
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com,
                          > > > > > > Spacecaptain
                          > > > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                          > > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a
                          > > > > HP-VP6121
                          > > > > > > DLP
                          > > > > > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
                          > > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
                          > > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up
                          > > > > before
                          > > > > > > > > buying.
                          > > > > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
                          > > > > > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
                          > > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too,
                          > > but
                          > > > > my
                          > > > > > > > > first
                          > > > > > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
                          > > > > > > prepared,
                          > > > > > > > > and
                          > > > > > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
                          > > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          >


                        • pzamov
                          I have found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-190957-LIGHT-CURE-ADHESIVE-UV-CURE-1-LT-/150633641768 BUT I think the label said Use By: 08/2010 AND of course
                          Message 12 of 19 , Aug 8, 2011
                            I have found this:
                            http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-190957-LIGHT-CURE-ADHESIVE-UV-CURE-1-LT-/150633641768

                            BUT I think the label said "Use By: 08/2010"
                            AND of course could not find it in the Henkel website or the MSDS.
                            so I have no idea what type of adhesive this is or what its use is.



                            --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Spacecaptain <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > It seems that E-tec is making a lot of 'interesting' design decisions:
                            > dicroic filters after the lamp and in the VAT?
                            > That must be... expensive? Why not do it while the beam is smaller, and
                            > before it carries any image information?
                            >
                            > Well anyway, this is now proof that some color filtering happens
                            > probably to address different photoinitiator/filler/pigmentation issues
                            > in the resin.
                            >
                            > I for my side will be looking into blue dichroic filters like the ones
                            > used in laser manipulation:
                            > http://stores.ebay.com/OneStopLaserShop/_i.html?_fsub=20656239
                            >
                            > But that will be later, when I have other things settled and well tested.
                            >
                            > Cheers for the info on Loctite resin! Lets try and find a quotation for
                            > a quart
                            >
                            > On 08/08/2011 08:47 AM, pzamov wrote:
                            > >
                            > > The E-tec machines have a software updates ( I guess a color change
                            > > and intensity change and a few other settings ) and a VAT change for
                            > > the different resins. There is also different panes of glass between
                            > > the projector lens and the VAT that I have seen in videos to have a
                            > > dichroic coating depending on the machine main function.
                            > >
                            > > I have also looked up a few Hearing Aid Resins from Loctite(Henkel)
                            > > which look fantastic:
                            > > http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/LT3380_Resinaid_Brochure.pdf
                            > > They have a 0.762mm for 3-10 second exposure.
                            > >
                            > > Just need to find sources for them.
                            > >
                            > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                            > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, Fernando
                            > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > One should add that although we are clearly seeing green light shining
                            > > > through the resin, this could not only be because only green light is
                            > > > being used but because only the green part of the light is being let
                            > > > through by the resin system.
                            > > > In other words, the green light is not absorbed and this could be the
                            > > > Sudan I dye and BAPO filtering out the red and blue. You can see how the
                            > > > resin is a deep amber colored liquid, just as you would expect from such
                            > > > a composition. A green light active system should have a magenta sheen
                            > > > to it.
                            > > > It's hard to speculate from these pictures only. It would be cool to
                            > > > hear from people using Etek what this green light is all about!
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 17:57 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                            > > > >
                            > > > > @Fernando
                            > > > >
                            > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material
                            > > > > being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more
                            > > > > uses to the color wheel.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Hmm... just to summarize:
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Red - to focus
                            > > > > Green - curing resin
                            > > > > Blue - curing resin
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Different property resin materials cured by different wavelength
                            > > > > absorbing fillers - maybe.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > You can't get rid of me... LOL :-D
                            > > > >
                            > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                            > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, Fernando
                            > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Yes, I'm kind of expecting this error situation to occur.
                            > > > > > Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter?
                            > > > > > I like the idea of using the red to help focus.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Also, there usually is a "clear" section in the color wheel.
                            > > > > > I wonder if you could freeze it in that position, or in the blue
                            > > > > > position. Those two would be worth a try.
                            > > > > > Otherwise, I will just remove the color wheel from the light path
                            > > > > but
                            > > > > > leave it connected and spinning.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 20:35 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs
                            > > > > > > ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for
                            > > > > > > focusing the projector.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > just a thought.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color
                            > > > > > > wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the
                            > > > > motor,
                            > > > > > > otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                            > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, Fernando
                            > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
                            > > > > > > > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the
                            > > > > color
                            > > > > > > > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you
                            > > > > > > undertsand
                            > > > > > > > how the DLP projector works
                            > > > > > > (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
                            > > > > > > > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%
                            > > > > > > 20design%
                            > > > > > > > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why
                            > > > > you
                            > > > > > > > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the
                            > > > > total
                            > > > > > > > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all
                            > > > > of
                            > > > > > > the
                            > > > > > > > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
                            > > > > > > > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3,
                            > > > > that's up
                            > > > > > > to
                            > > > > > > > you.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
                            > > > > > > > > They DO use a color wheel.
                            > > > > > > > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
                            > > > > > > > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
                            > > > > > > > > advantageous.
                            > > > > > > > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so
                            > > > > any
                            > > > > > > > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD
                            > > > > > > temperature. If
                            > > > > > > > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to
                            > > > > worry
                            > > > > > > > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb
                            > > > > housing
                            > > > > > > > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP
                            > > > > lamp
                            > > > > > > is
                            > > > > > > > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal
                            > > > > lubricants
                            > > > > > > and
                            > > > > > > > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the
                            > > > > > > reflective
                            > > > > > > > > element...ITS THE UV.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying
                            > > > > anything....Using
                            > > > > > > a
                            > > > > > > > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside
                            > > > > your
                            > > > > > > > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
                            > > > > > > > > necessary.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                            > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>,
                            > > > > Fernando
                            > > > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
                            > > > > > > > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a
                            > > > > tailor
                            > > > > > > made
                            > > > > > > > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to
                            > > > > remove
                            > > > > > > IR.
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the
                            > > > > > > Blue/Green/Red
                            > > > > > > > > +IR,
                            > > > > > > > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we
                            > > > > decide
                            > > > > > > to
                            > > > > > > > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining
                            > > > > > > roughly
                            > > > > > > > > 1/3
                            > > > > > > > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The
                            > > > > rest of
                            > > > > > > the
                            > > > > > > > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a
                            > > > > red
                            > > > > > > light
                            > > > > > > > > to
                            > > > > > > > > > the heatsink.
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering
                            > > > > the
                            > > > > > > whole
                            > > > > > > > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the
                            > > > > time*.
                            > > > > > > The
                            > > > > > > > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color
                            > > > > wheel
                            > > > > > > in
                            > > > > > > > > it's
                            > > > > > > > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and
                            > > > > help
                            > > > > > > > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at
                            > > > > > > first
                            > > > > > > > > to
                            > > > > > > > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the
                            > > > > curing
                            > > > > > > > > time of
                            > > > > > > > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of
                            > > > > the
                            > > > > > > > > resin
                            > > > > > > > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > > otherwise congrats!
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                            > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>,
                            > > > > > > > > Spacecaptain
                            > > > > > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a
                            > > > > > > HP-VP6121
                            > > > > > > > > DLP
                            > > > > > > > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
                            > > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
                            > > <http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85>
                            > > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up
                            > > > > > > before
                            > > > > > > > > > > buying.
                            > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
                            > > > > > > > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
                            > > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too,
                            > > > > but
                            > > > > > > my
                            > > > > > > > > > > first
                            > > > > > > > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
                            > > > > > > > > prepared,
                            > > > > > > > > > > and
                            > > > > > > > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
                            > > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            >
                          • Spacecaptain
                            And nothing at all in google either... hrmmm. I wouldn t buy it unless you are willing to risk throwing the money away: to many unkowns and ifs and buts If it
                            Message 13 of 19 , Aug 8, 2011
                              And nothing at all in google either... hrmmm.
                              I wouldn't buy it unless you are willing to risk throwing the money away: to many unkowns and ifs and buts
                              If it does work it will be nice for experimentation, but not repeatable work.

                              On 08/08/2011 11:09 AM, pzamov wrote:
                               

                              I have found this:
                              http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-190957-LIGHT-CURE-ADHESIVE-UV-CURE-1-LT-/150633641768

                              BUT I think the label said "Use By: 08/2010"
                              AND of course could not find it in the Henkel website or the MSDS.
                              so I have no idea what type of adhesive this is or what its use is.

                              --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, Spacecaptain <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > It seems that E-tec is making a lot of 'interesting' design decisions:
                              > dicroic filters after the lamp and in the VAT?
                              > That must be... expensive? Why not do it while the beam is smaller, and
                              > before it carries any image information?
                              >
                              > Well anyway, this is now proof that some color filtering happens
                              > probably to address different photoinitiator/filler/pigmentation issues
                              > in the resin.
                              >
                              > I for my side will be looking into blue dichroic filters like the ones
                              > used in laser manipulation:
                              > http://stores.ebay.com/OneStopLaserShop/_i.html?_fsub=20656239
                              >
                              > But that will be later, when I have other things settled and well tested.
                              >
                              > Cheers for the info on Loctite resin! Lets try and find a quotation for
                              > a quart
                              >
                              > On 08/08/2011 08:47 AM, pzamov wrote:
                              > >
                              > > The E-tec machines have a software updates ( I guess a color change
                              > > and intensity change and a few other settings ) and a VAT change for
                              > > the different resins. There is also different panes of glass between
                              > > the projector lens and the VAT that I have seen in videos to have a
                              > > dichroic coating depending on the machine main function.
                              > >
                              > > I have also looked up a few Hearing Aid Resins from Loctite(Henkel)
                              > > which look fantastic:
                              > > http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/LT3380_Resinaid_Brochure.pdf
                              > > They have a 0.762mm for 3-10 second exposure.
                              > >
                              > > Just need to find sources for them.
                              > >
                              > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                              > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, Fernando
                              > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > One should add that although we are clearly seeing green light shining
                              > > > through the resin, this could not only be because only green light is
                              > > > being used but because only the green part of the light is being let
                              > > > through by the resin system.
                              > > > In other words, the green light is not absorbed and this could be the
                              > > > Sudan I dye and BAPO filtering out the red and blue. You can see how the
                              > > > resin is a deep amber colored liquid, just as you would expect from such
                              > > > a composition. A green light active system should have a magenta sheen
                              > > > to it.
                              > > > It's hard to speculate from these pictures only. It would be cool to
                              > > > hear from people using Etek what this green light is all about!
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > > On Sun, 2011-08-07 at 17:57 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                              > > > >
                              > > > > @Fernando
                              > > > >
                              > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1ZPlgh_wo4 also shows some material
                              > > > > being cured with visible green light + UV. So there might be some more
                              > > > > uses to the color wheel.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Hmm... just to summarize:
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Red - to focus
                              > > > > Green - curing resin
                              > > > > Blue - curing resin
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Different property resin materials cured by different wavelength
                              > > > > absorbing fillers - maybe.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > You can't get rid of me... LOL :-D
                              > > > >
                              > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                              > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, Fernando
                              > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > Yes, I'm kind of expecting this error situation to occur.
                              > > > > > Do you think the alcohol will clear the filter?
                              > > > > > I like the idea of using the red to help focus.
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > Also, there usually is a "clear" section in the color wheel.
                              > > > > > I wonder if you could freeze it in that position, or in the blue
                              > > > > > position. Those two would be worth a try.
                              > > > > > Otherwise, I will just remove the color wheel from the light path
                              > > > > but
                              > > > > > leave it connected and spinning.
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 20:35 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > You can clean the color wheel with alcohol and head cleaning swabs
                              > > > > > > ( the ones with a sponge-like tips ) .You also can use the red for
                              > > > > > > focusing the projector.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > just a thought.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > If you have decided, then remove it ( BTW. Do not remove the color
                              > > > > > > wheel completely. Just break off the glass and reinstall the
                              > > > > motor,
                              > > > > > > otherwise you will get an error - depending on your projector).
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                              > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, Fernando
                              > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > As per TI's DMD specs, DMP temperature is an issue to it's life
                              > > > > > > > expectancy, independently of UV outgassing. I will remove the
                              > > > > color
                              > > > > > > > wheel because it makes sense in my projector model. Once you
                              > > > > > > undertsand
                              > > > > > > > how the DLP projector works
                              > > > > > > (http://www.oe.ttu.edu.tw/seminar/optical%
                              > > > > > > > 20system%20design%20in%20projection%20display/optical%20system%
                              > > > > > > 20design%
                              > > > > > > > 20in%20projection%20display.pdf slide 16 and 22) I don't get why
                              > > > > you
                              > > > > > > > wouldn't want to remove the wheel. It's not about using the
                              > > > > total
                              > > > > > > > energy, it's about using the part of the spectrum you need *all
                              > > > > of
                              > > > > > > the
                              > > > > > > > time* not just 1/3 of the time.
                              > > > > > > > If you want to increase your curing time by a factor of 3,
                              > > > > that's up
                              > > > > > > to
                              > > > > > > > you.
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:16 +0000, techartisan wrote:
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > Etek DOES NOT use a custom blue/UV bulb.
                              > > > > > > > > They DO use a color wheel.
                              > > > > > > > > The total energy the lamp is capable of isnt in the critical
                              > > > > > > > > wavelengths of the photoinitiator...SO "opening it up" is NOT
                              > > > > > > > > advantageous.
                              > > > > > > > > The colorwheel is AFTER the dmd in the projection path....so
                              > > > > any
                              > > > > > > > > modification to the wheel is USELESS in regards to DMD
                              > > > > > > temperature. If
                              > > > > > > > > IR is a concern to you....even though ETEK doesnt bother to
                              > > > > worry
                              > > > > > > > > about it, you would need to add an IR filter to the bulb
                              > > > > housing
                              > > > > > > > > assembly. It should be noted that the IR component of the UHP
                              > > > > lamp
                              > > > > > > is
                              > > > > > > > > not the portion that causes outgassing of the internal
                              > > > > lubricants
                              > > > > > > and
                              > > > > > > > > package adhesive eventually leading to degradation of the
                              > > > > > > reflective
                              > > > > > > > > element...ITS THE UV.
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > But if you were so inclined to bother modifying
                              > > > > anything....Using
                              > > > > > > a
                              > > > > > > > > filter AT THE BULB that would eliminate wavelengths outside
                              > > > > your
                              > > > > > > > > target nm range would be your best approach....but again NOT
                              > > > > > > > > necessary.
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                              > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>,
                              > > > > Fernando
                              > > > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > I don't think that would make a lot of sense.
                              > > > > > > > > > The picture you show seems to be more like Etek using a
                              > > > > tailor
                              > > > > > > made
                              > > > > > > > > > bulb, with greater blue/UV content, and/or some filter to
                              > > > > remove
                              > > > > > > IR.
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > The color wheel in our case does not only filter the
                              > > > > > > Blue/Green/Red
                              > > > > > > > > +IR,
                              > > > > > > > > > it filters them in turn, over time. In other words, if we
                              > > > > decide
                              > > > > > > to
                              > > > > > > > > > shine a blue image at the resin, it would do so by shining
                              > > > > > > roughly
                              > > > > > > > > 1/3
                              > > > > > > > > > of the energy the UHP lamp is capable of delivering. The
                              > > > > rest of
                              > > > > > > the
                              > > > > > > > > > time, it will be filtering blue and diverting the green a
                              > > > > red
                              > > > > > > light
                              > > > > > > > > to
                              > > > > > > > > > the heatsink.
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > By removing the wheel we guarantee that we are delivering
                              > > > > the
                              > > > > > > whole
                              > > > > > > > > > punch of the UHP bulb, the complete spectrum, *all of the
                              > > > > time*.
                              > > > > > > The
                              > > > > > > > > > only thing I was thinking of doing is to freeze the color
                              > > > > wheel
                              > > > > > > in
                              > > > > > > > > it's
                              > > > > > > > > > red filter position, to remove any IR from the spectrum and
                              > > > > help
                              > > > > > > > > > maintain the DMD cool, but that may fry the color wheel...
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 11:47 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > @Frenando I would suggest not to remove the color wheel at
                              > > > > > > first
                              > > > > > > > > to
                              > > > > > > > > > > see what a purple/blue colored slice could bring to the
                              > > > > curing
                              > > > > > > > > time of
                              > > > > > > > > > > the resin. Envisiont*c has some videos where the curing of
                              > > > > the
                              > > > > > > > > resin
                              > > > > > > > > > > is with a bluish light + UV.
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > http://tinypic.com/r/keb5w7/7
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > otherwise congrats!
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
                              > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>,
                              > > > > > > > > Spacecaptain
                              > > > > > > > > > > <spacecaptain@> wrote:
                              > > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > > The first element of my DLP printer is on the way, a
                              > > > > > > HP-VP6121
                              > > > > > > > > DLP
                              > > > > > > > > > > > projector, second hand, with a fading bulb:
                              > > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85
                              > > <http://cgi.ebay.es/HP-VP6121-DLP-Digital-Projector-01-/260806564485?pt=UK_AudiVideoElectronics_Video_Electronics&hash=item3cb9485a85>
                              > > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > > Here's how you remove the color wheel, which I looked up
                              > > > > > > before
                              > > > > > > > > > > buying.
                              > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2PRSm4n_Ok
                              > > > > > > > > > > > Seems pretty straight forward.
                              > > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > > I have gotten myself a workbench and a drill press too,
                              > > > > but
                              > > > > > > my
                              > > > > > > > > > > first
                              > > > > > > > > > > > task for the projector will be to test the resins I have
                              > > > > > > > > prepared,
                              > > > > > > > > > > and
                              > > > > > > > > > > > at the same time calibrate my test rig.
                              > > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              >


                            • Boman33
                              Also remember that the dichroic coatings might be for anti-reflective purposes which would increase the system efficiency. Further, any filters added will
                              Message 14 of 19 , Aug 8, 2011

                                Also remember that the dichroic coatings might be for anti-reflective purposes which would increase the system efficiency.

                                Further, any filters added will cause some insertion loss and some reflective losses which we should keep in mind.

                                Bertho

                                ====================================

                                From:  Spacecaptain    Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 04:58
                                It seems that E-tec is making a lot of 'interesting' design decisions: dicroic filters after the lamp and in the VAT?
                                That must be... expensive? Why not do it while the beam is smaller, and before it carries any image information?

                                Well anyway, this is now proof that some color filtering happens probably to address different photoinitiator/filler/pigmentation issues in the resin.

                                I for my side will be looking into blue dichroic filters like the ones used in laser manipulation:
                                http://stores.ebay.com/OneStopLaserShop/_i.html?_fsub=20656239

                                But that will be later, when I have other things settled and well tested.

                                Cheers for the info on Loctite resin! Lets try and find a quotation for a quart

                              • Tim
                                This stuff any use?
                                Message 15 of 19 , Aug 8, 2011
                                  This stuff any use?

                                  http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-UV-UltraViolet-Visible-Light-Cure-Adhesive-ALL-/120674067527?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D15%26pmod%3D150633641768%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1917354278805094967

                                  --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > I have found this:
                                  > http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-190957-LIGHT-CURE-ADHESIVE-UV-CURE-1-LT-/150633641768
                                  >
                                  > BUT I think the label said "Use By: 08/2010"
                                  > AND of course could not find it in the Henkel website or the MSDS.
                                  > so I have no idea what type of adhesive this is or what its use is.
                                • pzamov
                                  I saw that too, but still have to sift through the MSDS and the Spec sheets. Most(is not all) are adhesives that bong to glass also, meaning we will have to
                                  Message 16 of 19 , Aug 8, 2011
                                    I saw that too, but still have to sift through the MSDS and the Spec sheets. Most(is not all) are adhesives that bong to glass also, meaning we will have to figure out a way to remove from glass or partially prevent a good bond - complicates things a lot.


                                    --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Tim" <tj.parnell@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > This stuff any use?
                                    >
                                    > http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-UV-UltraViolet-Visible-Light-Cure-Adhesive-ALL-/120674067527?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D15%26pmod%3D150633641768%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1917354278805094967
                                    >
                                    > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov" <pzamov@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > I have found this:
                                    > > http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-190957-LIGHT-CURE-ADHESIVE-UV-CURE-1-LT-/150633641768
                                    > >
                                    > > BUT I think the label said "Use By: 08/2010"
                                    > > AND of course could not find it in the Henkel website or the MSDS.
                                    > > so I have no idea what type of adhesive this is or what its use is.
                                    >
                                  • fernando
                                    Listed are the Resin and Spec Sheet Numbers of the resins that claim to work with visible light: 3105 - Acrylated urethane - Bonding Production high speed
                                    Message 17 of 19 , Aug 9, 2011
                                      Listed are the Resin and Spec Sheet Numbers of the resins that claim to
                                      work with visible light:
                                      3105 - Acrylated urethane - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                      3106 - Acrylated urethane - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                      3211 - Acrylated urethane - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                      3526 - Modified acrylic - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                      3922 - UV acrylic - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                      4306 - Ethyl cyanoacrylate with photoinitiator - Bonding Plastics,
                                      Rubbers and Metals
                                      5033 - Acetoxy dual cure silicone - Encapsulating, Bonding, Gasketing or
                                      Sealing


                                      Of these, only the following are available on this eBay offer and I
                                      don't know if they have the others on stock.

                                      3106 - 1L - $155
                                      3211 - 1L - $125
                                      3526 - 1L - $155
                                      3922 - 25ml - $25
                                      3942 - 25ml - $32
                                      4306 - 1LB - $155
                                      5033 - 300ml - $50

                                      As we can see in the data sheets, the speed of cure is quite good, but
                                      the type of application is mostly adhesive. As pzamov says, these will
                                      surely bond tightly to the glass pane. Also to be expected is that the
                                      final properties of th epolymer be quite flexible and tough, like
                                      leather or rubber.

                                      Prices are not better than Dymax, so I would go with what is known to
                                      work if you want something off the shelf.


                                      On Mon, 2011-08-08 at 20:30 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                                      >
                                      > I saw that too, but still have to sift through the MSDS and the Spec
                                      > sheets. Most(is not all) are adhesives that bong to glass also,
                                      > meaning we will have to figure out a way to remove from glass or
                                      > partially prevent a good bond - complicates things a lot.
                                      >
                                      > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Tim"
                                      > <tj.parnell@...> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > > This stuff any use?
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-UV-UltraViolet-Visible-Light-Cure-Adhesive-ALL-/120674067527?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D15%26pmod%3D150633641768%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1917354278805094967
                                      > >
                                      > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov"
                                      > <pzamov@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > I have found this:
                                      > > >
                                      > http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-190957-LIGHT-CURE-ADHESIVE-UV-CURE-1-LT-/150633641768
                                      > > >
                                      > > > BUT I think the label said "Use By: 08/2010"
                                      > > > AND of course could not find it in the Henkel website or the MSDS.
                                      > > > so I have no idea what type of adhesive this is or what its use
                                      > is.
                                      > >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                    • danmauch
                                      Has anyone tried using PVA as a release agent for 3d printing? I have had a gallon of the stuff for 15 years. If I can find a way to ship it I would be
                                      Message 18 of 19 , Aug 9, 2011
                                        Has anyone tried using PVA as a release agent for 3d printing? I have had a gallon of the stuff for 15 years. If I can find a way to ship it I would be willing to donate some for testing purposes. Best thing is PVA is watter solutbe so it can be washed away.

                                        Dan Mauch
                                        www.camtronics-cnc.com


                                        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, fernando <spacecaptain@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > Listed are the Resin and Spec Sheet Numbers of the resins that claim to
                                        > work with visible light:
                                        > 3105 - Acrylated urethane - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                        > 3106 - Acrylated urethane - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                        > 3211 - Acrylated urethane - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                        > 3526 - Modified acrylic - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                        > 3922 - UV acrylic - Bonding Production high speed curing
                                        > 4306 - Ethyl cyanoacrylate with photoinitiator - Bonding Plastics,
                                        > Rubbers and Metals
                                        > 5033 - Acetoxy dual cure silicone - Encapsulating, Bonding, Gasketing or
                                        > Sealing
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > Of these, only the following are available on this eBay offer and I
                                        > don't know if they have the others on stock.
                                        >
                                        > 3106 - 1L - $155
                                        > 3211 - 1L - $125
                                        > 3526 - 1L - $155
                                        > 3922 - 25ml - $25
                                        > 3942 - 25ml - $32
                                        > 4306 - 1LB - $155
                                        > 5033 - 300ml - $50
                                        >
                                        > As we can see in the data sheets, the speed of cure is quite good, but
                                        > the type of application is mostly adhesive. As pzamov says, these will
                                        > surely bond tightly to the glass pane. Also to be expected is that the
                                        > final properties of th epolymer be quite flexible and tough, like
                                        > leather or rubber.
                                        >
                                        > Prices are not better than Dymax, so I would go with what is known to
                                        > work if you want something off the shelf.
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > On Mon, 2011-08-08 at 20:30 +0000, pzamov wrote:
                                        > >
                                        > > I saw that too, but still have to sift through the MSDS and the Spec
                                        > > sheets. Most(is not all) are adhesives that bong to glass also,
                                        > > meaning we will have to figure out a way to remove from glass or
                                        > > partially prevent a good bond - complicates things a lot.
                                        > >
                                        > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Tim"
                                        > > <tj.parnell@> wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        > > > This stuff any use?
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-UV-UltraViolet-Visible-Light-Cure-Adhesive-ALL-/120674067527?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D15%26pmod%3D150633641768%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1917354278805094967
                                        > > >
                                        > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "pzamov"
                                        > > <pzamov@> wrote:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > I have found this:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > http://cgi.ebay.com/LOCTITE-190957-LIGHT-CURE-ADHESIVE-UV-CURE-1-LT-/150633641768
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > BUT I think the label said "Use By: 08/2010"
                                        > > > > AND of course could not find it in the Henkel website or the MSDS.
                                        > > > > so I have no idea what type of adhesive this is or what its use
                                        > > is.
                                        > > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        >
                                      • Michael Couch
                                        Anyone wanting to experiment with LED Projectors? Great price $169 on a high res LED Mini Projector. Specifications: Display format: Signal 3.5-inch LCD LCD
                                        Message 19 of 19 , Aug 9, 2011
                                          Anyone wanting to experiment with LED Projectors?

                                          Great price $169 on a high res LED Mini Projector.
                                          Specifications:
                                          Display format: Signal 3.5-inch LCD
                                          LCD resolution: 640 x 480 pixels
                                          Supported resolution: 800 x 600, 1024 x 768
                                          Contrast ratio: 600:1
                                          Projection lens: F-number=125
                                          Screen size: 30 - 100-inches (30-inches at 1M)
                                          Projection distance: 1 - 3.5 meters
                                          Lightning source: LED lamp
                                          LED power: 30-watt
                                          LED life: Up to 20,000 hours
                                          Brightness: 42 lumens (about 600 ANSI lumen) at 1M
                                          Projection method: Front/Rear
                                          Audio format: MP3/WMA
                                          Video format: MP4/AVI
                                          Picture format: JPEG
                                          Keystone correction: ±15°
                                          Video System: NTSC/PAL, Aspect ratio: 4:3
                                          Working Temperature: - 10°C - +40°C


                                          Ports:
                                          One (1) HDMI
                                          One (1) 15-pin VGA
                                          One (1) Type A USB
                                          One (1) Secure Digital (SD) card slot
                                          One (1) Y, Cb/Pr, CR/Pr component input
                                          One (1) Composite input
                                          One (1) L/R audio input
                                          One (1) 3.5 mm headphone jack

                                          http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?InvtId=BLK-PMC-001-PB&utm_source=geekmail&utm_medium=daily_html&utm_content=Main3&utm_campaign=STAC20001032_09aug11

                                          --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > Also remember that the dichroic coatings might be for anti-reflective
                                          > purposes which would increase the system efficiency.
                                          >
                                          > Further, any filters added will cause some insertion loss and some
                                          > reflective losses which we should keep in mind.
                                          >
                                          > Bertho
                                          >
                                          > ====================================
                                          >
                                          > From: Spacecaptain Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 04:58
                                          > It seems that E-tec is making a lot of 'interesting' design decisions:
                                          > dicroic filters after the lamp and in the VAT?
                                          > That must be... expensive? Why not do it while the beam is smaller, and
                                          > before it carries any image information?
                                          >
                                          > Well anyway, this is now proof that some color filtering happens probably to
                                          > address different photoinitiator/filler/pigmentation issues in the resin.
                                          >
                                          > I for my side will be looking into blue dichroic filters like the ones used
                                          > in laser manipulation:
                                          > http://stores.ebay.com/OneStopLaserShop/_i.html?_fsub=20656239
                                          >
                                          > But that will be later, when I have other things settled and well tested.
                                          >
                                          > Cheers for the info on Loctite resin! Lets try and find a quotation for a
                                          > quart
                                          >
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