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Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: Your projects...

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  • M Ganter
    Dan, try covering your build platform with blue or green masking tape. ABS will stick to it. We ve even used it on our commercial FDM system. The heated build
    Message 1 of 10 , Jul 1, 2010
      Dan, try covering your build platform with blue or green masking tape.
      ABS will stick to it. We've even used it on our commercial FDM system.
      The heated build plate really helps the warping. ABS likes to warp for
      parts that are thick (anything more than 1 cm shows warping). If you
      don't want to build the heated build plate, try using PLA plastic (it's
      about the same cost AND it smells much better than ABS).

      On 6/30/2010 12:26 PM, danmauch wrote:
      >
      > I am building a 3d printer using ABS filament as the medium. What I
      > have done so far was to buy the makerbot motherboard and the MK-4
      > plastruder. I took and old but precision 10"X10" travel stage and
      > added the extruder to the Z axis. The X and Y axis use precision zero
      > backlash ball screws.
      > I am using replicator G ver 0017 as the program to create the G code
      > and send the signals to the step motor drivers. Right now I can
      > extrude plastic but I need to make a heated build platform.
      > What is different with my build is that I am not using any of the off
      > the shelf mechanism such as makerbot cupcake or reprap medel and others.
      > There is a lot to learn but slowly I am making progress. The biggest
      > problem up till now is that the extruded abs doesn't want to stick to
      > the base. material but once I build the heated build table I think the
      > problem will go away.
      > What is good about this system is that it would allow you to use an
      > existing machine as the XYZ platform as the motherboard has step and
      > direction output signals. I can't say at this time that it will work
      > with all drivers as they do not use step for per unit in the
      > replicator config file but use "scale" instead. The other issue may be
      > that the program may not produce the steps fast enough to get you the
      > idea 70 IPM deposition rate. This may not be a problem if the feed
      > rate of the extruder is slowed down proportionally
      >
      > Dan Mauch
      >
      > www.camtronics-cnc.com
      > dmauch@... <mailto:dmauch%40camtronics-cnc.com>
      > Low prices on Gecko drive, cases , sepper and servo motors.
      > 3d scanner
      >
      > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
      > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, "gsi11135"
      > <gsi11135@...> wrote:
      > >
      > > Many of you have signed onto this list to find information on how
      > you might build your own 3DP. I just want to check in with those
      > individuals who have made the plunge to see how your projects are
      > coming along.
      > >
      > > Joseph
      > > Owner/Moderator
      > >
      >
      >
    • danmauch
      Yes I had read about the tape and planned to use it. I will build a heated build table also. Do you have a source for the PLA plastic? Dan Mauch
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 1, 2010
        Yes I had read about the tape and planned to use it. I will build a heated build table also.
        Do you have a source for the PLA plastic?
        Dan Mauch


        --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, M Ganter <ganter2@...> wrote:
        >
        > Dan, try covering your build platform with blue or green masking tape.
        > ABS will stick to it. We've even used it on our commercial FDM system.
        > The heated build plate really helps the warping. ABS likes to warp for
        > parts that are thick (anything more than 1 cm shows warping). If you
        > don't want to build the heated build plate, try using PLA plastic (it's
        > about the same cost AND it smells much better than ABS).
        >
        > On 6/30/2010 12:26 PM, danmauch wrote:
        > >
        > > I am building a 3d printer using ABS filament as the medium. What I
        > > have done so far was to buy the makerbot motherboard and the MK-4
        > > plastruder. I took and old but precision 10"X10" travel stage and
        > > added the extruder to the Z axis. The X and Y axis use precision zero
        > > backlash ball screws.
        > > I am using replicator G ver 0017 as the program to create the G code
        > > and send the signals to the step motor drivers. Right now I can
        > > extrude plastic but I need to make a heated build platform.
        > > What is different with my build is that I am not using any of the off
        > > the shelf mechanism such as makerbot cupcake or reprap medel and others.
        > > There is a lot to learn but slowly I am making progress. The biggest
        > > problem up till now is that the extruded abs doesn't want to stick to
        > > the base. material but once I build the heated build table I think the
        > > problem will go away.
        > > What is good about this system is that it would allow you to use an
        > > existing machine as the XYZ platform as the motherboard has step and
        > > direction output signals. I can't say at this time that it will work
        > > with all drivers as they do not use step for per unit in the
        > > replicator config file but use "scale" instead. The other issue may be
        > > that the program may not produce the steps fast enough to get you the
        > > idea 70 IPM deposition rate. This may not be a problem if the feed
        > > rate of the extruder is slowed down proportionally
        > >
        > > Dan Mauch
        > >
        > > www.camtronics-cnc.com
        > > dmauch@... <mailto:dmauch%40camtronics-cnc.com>
        > > Low prices on Gecko drive, cases , sepper and servo motors.
        > > 3d scanner
        > >
        > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
        > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, "gsi11135"
        > > <gsi11135@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Many of you have signed onto this list to find information on how
        > > you might build your own 3DP. I just want to check in with those
        > > individuals who have made the plunge to see how your projects are
        > > coming along.
        > > >
        > > > Joseph
        > > > Owner/Moderator
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        >
      • M Ganter
        Dan, try http://ultimachine.com/ The new blue transparent PLA has UV glow properties.
        Message 3 of 10 , Jul 1, 2010
          Dan, try

          http://ultimachine.com/

          The new blue transparent PLA has UV glow properties.

          On 7/1/2010 12:37 PM, danmauch wrote:
          >
          > Yes I had read about the tape and planned to use it. I will build a
          > heated build table also.
          > Do you have a source for the PLA plastic?
          > Dan Mauch
          >
          > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
          > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, M Ganter
          > <ganter2@...> wrote:
          > >
          > > Dan, try covering your build platform with blue or green masking tape.
          > > ABS will stick to it. We've even used it on our commercial FDM system.
          > > The heated build plate really helps the warping. ABS likes to warp for
          > > parts that are thick (anything more than 1 cm shows warping). If you
          > > don't want to build the heated build plate, try using PLA plastic (it's
          > > about the same cost AND it smells much better than ABS).
          > >
          > > On 6/30/2010 12:26 PM, danmauch wrote:
          > > >
          > > > I am building a 3d printer using ABS filament as the medium. What I
          > > > have done so far was to buy the makerbot motherboard and the MK-4
          > > > plastruder. I took and old but precision 10"X10" travel stage and
          > > > added the extruder to the Z axis. The X and Y axis use precision zero
          > > > backlash ball screws.
          > > > I am using replicator G ver 0017 as the program to create the G code
          > > > and send the signals to the step motor drivers. Right now I can
          > > > extrude plastic but I need to make a heated build platform.
          > > > What is different with my build is that I am not using any of the off
          > > > the shelf mechanism such as makerbot cupcake or reprap medel and
          > others.
          > > > There is a lot to learn but slowly I am making progress. The biggest
          > > > problem up till now is that the extruded abs doesn't want to stick to
          > > > the base. material but once I build the heated build table I think
          > the
          > > > problem will go away.
          > > > What is good about this system is that it would allow you to use an
          > > > existing machine as the XYZ platform as the motherboard has step and
          > > > direction output signals. I can't say at this time that it will work
          > > > with all drivers as they do not use step for per unit in the
          > > > replicator config file but use "scale" instead. The other issue
          > may be
          > > > that the program may not produce the steps fast enough to get you the
          > > > idea 70 IPM deposition rate. This may not be a problem if the feed
          > > > rate of the extruder is slowed down proportionally
          > > >
          > > > Dan Mauch
          > > >
          > > > www.camtronics-cnc.com
          > > > dmauch@... <mailto:dmauch%40camtronics-cnc.com>
          > > > Low prices on Gecko drive, cases , sepper and servo motors.
          > > > 3d scanner
          > > >
          > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
          > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>
          > > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>,
          > "gsi11135"
          > > > <gsi11135@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > Many of you have signed onto this list to find information on how
          > > > you might build your own 3DP. I just want to check in with those
          > > > individuals who have made the plunge to see how your projects are
          > > > coming along.
          > > > >
          > > > > Joseph
          > > > > Owner/Moderator
          > > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > >
          >
          >
          >
        • raiorz
          Upps, what to hell is that stuff expensive... 50USD for 5lb, thats round 22USD/kg. We had a injection molding project and we used ABS for under 3USD/kg. But
          Message 4 of 10 , Jul 2, 2010
            Upps, what to hell is that stuff expensive... 50USD for 5lb, thats round 22USD/kg. We had a injection molding project and we used ABS for under 3USD/kg. But 22USD/kg is a shame. If there is no other, cheaper source, i will stay with 3DP (powder/ink) or laser sintering means.

            Rai


            --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, M Ganter <ganter2@...> wrote:
            >
            > Dan, try
            >
            > http://ultimachine.com/
            >
            > The new blue transparent PLA has UV glow properties.
            >
            > On 7/1/2010 12:37 PM, danmauch wrote:
            > >
            > > Yes I had read about the tape and planned to use it. I will build a
            > > heated build table also.
            > > Do you have a source for the PLA plastic?
            > > Dan Mauch
            > >
            > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
            > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>, M Ganter
            > > <ganter2@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > Dan, try covering your build platform with blue or green masking tape.
            > > > ABS will stick to it. We've even used it on our commercial FDM system.
            > > > The heated build plate really helps the warping. ABS likes to warp for
            > > > parts that are thick (anything more than 1 cm shows warping). If you
            > > > don't want to build the heated build plate, try using PLA plastic (it's
            > > > about the same cost AND it smells much better than ABS).
            > > >
            > > > On 6/30/2010 12:26 PM, danmauch wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > I am building a 3d printer using ABS filament as the medium. What I
            > > > > have done so far was to buy the makerbot motherboard and the MK-4
            > > > > plastruder. I took and old but precision 10"X10" travel stage and
            > > > > added the extruder to the Z axis. The X and Y axis use precision zero
            > > > > backlash ball screws.
            > > > > I am using replicator G ver 0017 as the program to create the G code
            > > > > and send the signals to the step motor drivers. Right now I can
            > > > > extrude plastic but I need to make a heated build platform.
            > > > > What is different with my build is that I am not using any of the off
            > > > > the shelf mechanism such as makerbot cupcake or reprap medel and
            > > others.
            > > > > There is a lot to learn but slowly I am making progress. The biggest
            > > > > problem up till now is that the extruded abs doesn't want to stick to
            > > > > the base. material but once I build the heated build table I think
            > > the
            > > > > problem will go away.
            > > > > What is good about this system is that it would allow you to use an
            > > > > existing machine as the XYZ platform as the motherboard has step and
            > > > > direction output signals. I can't say at this time that it will work
            > > > > with all drivers as they do not use step for per unit in the
            > > > > replicator config file but use "scale" instead. The other issue
            > > may be
            > > > > that the program may not produce the steps fast enough to get you the
            > > > > idea 70 IPM deposition rate. This may not be a problem if the feed
            > > > > rate of the extruder is slowed down proportionally
            > > > >
            > > > > Dan Mauch
            > > > >
            > > > > www.camtronics-cnc.com
            > > > > dmauch@ <mailto:dmauch%40camtronics-cnc.com>
            > > > > Low prices on Gecko drive, cases , sepper and servo motors.
            > > > > 3d scanner
            > > > >
            > > > > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
            > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>
            > > > > <mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication%40yahoogroups.com>,
            > > "gsi11135"
            > > > > <gsi11135@> wrote:
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Many of you have signed onto this list to find information on how
            > > > > you might build your own 3DP. I just want to check in with those
            > > > > individuals who have made the plunge to see how your projects are
            > > > > coming along.
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Joseph
            > > > > > Owner/Moderator
            > > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            >
          • Kevin Hawkinson
            I started a powder-based 3DP. Project page is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:815 I had all the parts made, and started assembling it, and then found
            Message 5 of 10 , Jul 2, 2010
              I started a powder-based 3DP. Project page is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:815
               
              I had all the parts made, and started assembling it, and then found the flaw in the plan.
              With no adjustability between the width of the rails, and acrylic sheet that won't stay flat, I'm finding that the linear guides on the carriage bind up when everything is tight. I have a plan to switch to one rail, but have not yet implimented it. Been busy with domestic life and such.
               
              -Kevin Hawkinson

              On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 7:56 AM, gsi11135 <gsi11135@...> wrote:
               

              Many of you have signed onto this list to find information on how you might build your own 3DP. I just want to check in with those individuals who have made the plunge to see how your projects are coming along.

              Joseph
              Owner/Moderator


            • matthiaswm
              ... Hi Joseph, my project is based on HP cartridges that are attached to a CNC machine. I am trying to get five cartridges running and print CMYB + white. The
              Message 6 of 10 , Jul 2, 2010
                --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "gsi11135" <gsi11135@...> wrote:
                >
                > Many of you have signed onto this list to find information on how you might build your own 3DP. I just want to check in with those individuals who have made the plunge to see how your projects are coming along.

                Hi Joseph,

                my project is based on HP cartridges that are attached to a CNC machine. I am trying to get five cartridges running and print CMYB + white. The powder will likely be starch, but I am still experimenting a lot with powder and ink.

                I also did build a Makerbot CupCake and I am pretty happy withit. However, the applications for both printers are quite different: the ABS parts will one day be the chassis for my robots, whereas the powder prints will be for an architectural project involving an old museum.

                I wish I could put much more time into this and things would move along faster for finding the right powder/binder combination, and to find a support material for the Makerbot... .
              • vrsculptor@hotmail.com
                Hi Matt, I m curious how you are planning on doing this on a mill. One of the biggest problems with building any kind of 3D inkjets has been trying to adapt
                Message 7 of 10 , Jul 3, 2010
                  Hi Matt,
                  I'm curious how you are planning on doing this on a mill. One of the biggest problems with building any kind of 3D inkjets has been trying to adapt the existing printer electronics to a flat bed printer. The back and forth Y axis is easy... the paper feed and printer dance has been much more of a problem.

                  I hope you have a solution. There are a lot of us that could use one.

                  Roger

                  --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "matthiaswm" <matthiaswm@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "gsi11135" <gsi11135@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Many of you have signed onto this list to find information on how you might build your own 3DP. I just want to check in with those individuals who have made the plunge to see how your projects are coming along.
                  >
                  > Hi Joseph,
                  >
                  > my project is based on HP cartridges that are attached to a CNC machine. I am trying to get five cartridges running and print CMYB + white. The powder will likely be starch, but I am still experimenting a lot with powder and ink.
                  >
                  > I also did build a Makerbot CupCake and I am pretty happy withit. However, the applications for both printers are quite different: the ABS parts will one day be the chassis for my robots, whereas the powder prints will be for an architectural project involving an old museum.
                  >
                  > I wish I could put much more time into this and things would move along faster for finding the right powder/binder combination, and to find a support material for the Makerbot... .
                  >
                • matthiaswm
                  ... Well, none of the printer parts are used, just the cartridge and maybe the cake for the cartridges. I use the HP 45 s and connect them to my own
                  Message 8 of 10 , Jul 4, 2010
                    --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, vrsculptor@... wrote:
                    >
                    > I'm curious how you are planning on doing this on a mill. One of the biggest problems with building any kind of 3D inkjets has been trying to adapt the existing printer electronics to a flat bed printer. The back and forth Y axis is easy... the paper feed and printer dance has been much more of a problem.

                    Well, none of the printer parts are used, just the cartridge and maybe the cake for the cartridges. I use the HP 45's and connect them to my own electronics. The CNC machine does all the transport by simply sending signals over the serial port.

                    The main component s a printhead with all the electronics mounted where otherwise the mill would be located. The electronics read data from an SD card and then send commands to the CNC machine and to the print heads.

                    - Matthias
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