9319RE: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Need help to diagnose print
- Apr 6, 2014
Regarding a test print model, can anyone recommend a 3D model that incorporates different wall thicknesses, holes, shape(s), etc. that can be used to confirm small part details per Jon’s comment below? Thanks.
Unfortunately it's almost impossible to share printer settings with DLP printers. The main variables are projection size, bulb wattage, VAT bottom material and thickness. Even with the same bulb wattage, different projectors will project at different brightness depending on their internal light path.
The best thing to do is experiment. Find a test object to print, preferably with small details and some way of seeing if the resin is curing too deep. That's about all you can do. Everyone's printer and setup are unique and so is the correct exposure time for that printer.
Hopefully someone else responds who has used funtodo resin and can give feed back on the exposure time but of course it is dopant on what size you are focusing the projector to? How did you workout your layer thickness? it is dependent on how far the light permeates the resin, should not be set arbitrarily. You need to expose a single layer and measure the thickness that is cured. Though you will need a micrometer, or to confirm that your set layer size is not to large, make it smaller, will not hurt to over lap layers at this point, you just do not want the opposite.
On 6 Apr 2014 08:45, "Kobus du Toit" <kobusdtoit@...> wrote:
Here are the photos
I am using FunToDo red resin
I am printing at 30 micron layers and if I display a layer less than 1.85 seconds nothing is created.
I will remove the wiper and have a look, will reduce the variables
I am trying a 30 second delay after flooding the build plate, I flood 4mm. Now that I am removing the wiper I will delay 60 seconds after a flood to make sure everything is level
On Sun, Apr 6, 2014 at 2:08 AM, Ben Mahony <ben.mahony@...> wrote:
Yeah, I was just blindly commenting, I don't see the images in these email chains. OP brought up bright spot, but I agree it's fine tuning thing, worry about it last!
illiminate variables, add a big delay between layers to remove fluid leveling issues and don't use the wiper yet, take it out of the equation. I have not seen the photos but I assume OP is using pigmented resin? Bleedout can be reduced by thinner layers and shorter exposer times.
Just my two cents.
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