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9104RE: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Digest Number 1258

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  • Walt Lockard
    Jan 6 6:25 PM

      Hi Jon,


      Thanks for your thoughts.  Are you interesting in sharing any of your printer design and Bill of Materials?  Currently, I have the DLP projector; the Ardunio board, stepper motor board, fan, and wiring kit from Gadgets 3D; and a Wantai NEMA 17 / 70 oz-in 2.5A 1.8deg/step Bipolar Stepper Motor.  What software are you using for slicing and printing?  I’ve been in touch with Steve Hernandez and was hoping to use his Creation Workshop program.  I know that you’ve put a lot of work into your printer design, construction, and testing.  Therefore, I’d be happy to discuss payment for your design and Bill of Materials.  My goal is to maintain the spirit of the Maker movement, and keep everything open source and public domain. Thank you for considering my request.



      Best Regards,




      From: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jon Watson
      Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2014 6:02 PM
      To: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Digest Number 1258



      Walt, that Viewsonic should work fine for a printer.  3000 lumens is plenty, even though you really can't determine from "lumens".  Check the bulb wattage which yours is 210w - anything over 200 watts is plenty for a printer.  Even with color wheel intact.

      The only thing you may need to do is modify the lens to be able to shoot a closer distance.  Most times, you need to move the lens outward, away from the projector to make the focal distance shorter.  With my projector, I think I moved my lens out around 1.5mm.  I just took the lens off, put in a few washer shims to move the lens out.  Now this all depends on what final size you want your projection.  I wanted a 4.5 x 6" projection so I had to play around with a few different combinations of shims to get a good focus at that size.

      The glass plate you are seeing on the Envisiontec printer is kinda like an inverted vat bottom.  Even though it's a top down printer, they are still creating an exposure surface (vat bottom).  The resin still needs to release from this surface like a bottom up vat.  Looking at the video, I'm sure they have a proprietary noon stick coating on the glass. 

      This probably makes for more accurate layers as opposed to just "hoping" the thin wipe of resin on top of the model is at the correct depth/layer thickness.  Makes sense to me but I'm just guessing.  This way, you get more accurate layer thicknesses in the build and they probably don't have to control the resin level as much.



      Jon,  Nice comments on DLP in general.  I've wanted to lay my hands on an Envision TEC "Ultra" printer for about a year.  I've scoured the web for info, but only get the manufacturer's website, and some YouTube hits.  My thought is that this 3D DLP Printer is the benchmark for DLP printing technology.  Is this true?  And if so, in what ways does Envision's technology compare to what the Maker can construct at home?  You mentioned the heated build chamber.  Also, I see they have a glass plate across the top of the vat.  It looks like there's a caliper dial on the glass lid.  Could this be for leveling?  I've wanted to build a printer that is similar to the Envision TEC.  Do you think it can be done, or is the technology out-of-reach for the hobbyist?  Also, I have a ViewSonic DLP Projector that I planned on using in my printer.  Will this work for a "high" rez / lumen / etc. printer?



      Thanks for any feedback.




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