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9021RE: RE: Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] [Q] Curing time vs. build quality?

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  • pzamov
    Dec 2, 2013
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       Another thing to add to your questions:

      Pigments ( depending on which one you use ) settle with time to the bottom of the VAT.

      I had such an experience with a white and black pigment, where the black settled the fastest, then the white on top and the resin in the middle.


      Cheers!

      Peter



      ---In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, <florian.diepold@...> wrote:

      Hey,

      at first i want to thank Peter for the quick answer. The pigments are really doing their job. I am slowly approaching the right concentration. The prints are getting better.


      The projector has 3000 ANSI lumen according to his specs sheet and a Osram lamp with 210W with the color wheel still in place.

      http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/professional-model-datasheet/MR.JGQ11.00M

      My current build area is approx. 15x9cm.


      As I said the results are getting better with less "curing through" the previous layers. At the moment my used curing time is 15sec but i still have some trouble, especially with layers wich have a larger area. They somehow cure a bit unevenly in the 15sec but only if i use way more time i get a very even layer.


      What can I do to make it cure more evenly? And whats the exact difference between using dye and pigments. Pigments are much more effective right but what are the advantages or disadvanteges?


      Thx!

      Florian



      ---In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, <spacecaptain@...> wrote:

      Can you tell us more about the setup you are using?
      What optical power, (for example ANSI Lumen) does your projector produce?
      Is it a DLP projector using a lamp or LEDs?
      What is the build area of your printer?

      30 seconds is way to long for Spot-E. It is a slower resin that Spot-GP and Spot-HT but still it should cure in 10 to 12 seconds per 0.1mm layers.

      You may need to add a dye to it to avoid curing of deeper layers, but you also need to somehow up the power of the printer. A 1500 ANSI Lumen projector may not be enough if you want to print at a faster speed.

      Cheers!
      F.

      On 11/25/2013 06:33 PM, florian.diepold@... wrote:
       

      Hey guys,

      I'm in the middle of developing my 1st DLP printer, it's a top down model and its even printing.
      Unfortunately I got some problems concerning the lowering of the curing time and build quality.

      The first model i printed is this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32444/#files
      And those are the results of the 3 prints I've done so far: http://imgur.com/a/IfLSU#0

      As you can see, the build quality of the first print (from left to right) is pretty good, but the curing time was way to long (30sec per 0.1mm layer) which lead to curing all the layers below the actual one, too.
      So I got a full cylinder at the bottom instead of a hollow one.

      Second print was 10sec per layer...but it still cured all the layers beneath

      Third print was only 3sec per layer. Now i've go a kind of hollow cylinder at the bottom, but as you can see the build
      quality is bad.

      - as a resin I was using Spot-E from spotamaterials
      - projector is a Acer P1500 with color wheel still in place
      - projection distance was 210mm


      Do you have any ideas how I could fix that?

      Thank you in advance, I'd really appreciate your help.
      Florian


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