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2435Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: Resins recipe

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  • Spacecaptain
    Jun 2, 2011
      Si perdona, despues me di cuenta que te referias al mismo PDF que yo recomendaba.
      El link es este :


      En el wiki esta tambien el link:

      On 06/02/2011 03:49 PM, Maxi Bertotto wrote:

      Fernando, perdon por la demora, el link es el siguiente (es el que tu has mandado),
      Lo he leido en detalle y al final de todo aparecen varias recetas:

      Ops!!! lo clickeo pero no se me abre... creo que es este el que mandaste, avisame si lo es:

      Hay recetas en epoxi y acrilatos

      --- El mié 1-jun-11, Fernando <spacecaptain@...> escribió:

      De: Fernando <spacecaptain@...>
      Asunto: Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: Resins recipe
      Para: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
      Fecha: miércoles, 1 de junio de 2011, 3:10


      Debo estar ciego o demasiado cansado...
      Me dices que hay un link a un PDF en este mail?
      No lo encuentro... debe ser tan obvio que lo debo tener ante mis

      Me lo puedes enviar o mandarme el link otra vez?

      On Tue, 2011-05-31 at 16:01 -0700, Maxi Bertotto wrote:
      > Fernando:
      > Yes, the formulation I readed from the PDF (at the end)...
      > --- El mar 31-may-11, Fernando <spacecaptain@...> escribió:
      > De: Fernando <spacecaptain@...>
      > Asunto: Re: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: Resins
      > recipe
      > Para: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
      > Fecha: martes, 31 de mayo de 2011, 18:19
      > Fernando: For that, I need to know if I understud OK the
      > recipe (Check please!)
      > For Epoxy (Cationic Cure) PDF page 12
      > 1E) H-Nu 470 ----> from www.sglinc.com ¿Which is the
      > chemical name?
      > 2E) Iodonium Hexafluoroantimonate salt o Triarylsulfonium
      > 3E) Bisphenol A diepoxide (EPON 828) ¿Is this the epoxy
      > resin?
      > 4E) Polyol (Tone 305) ¿Is this a toner for color?
      > Where did you get this formulation from? Do you have the link
      > to the PDF you mention?
      > The Tone 305 polyol is a poly alcohol used as a co-polymer
      > additive, not a toner, filler or colorant. It gives the resin
      > it's
      > reactive porperties and final aspect.
      > The Bisphenol A diepoxide (EPON 828) is the main epoxy
      > component.
      > I have found Triarylsulfonium to be cheaper than Iodonium
      > salts. For these, be sure to use it's arsenic or tin salts as
      > they have better reactivity.
      > As for the epoxy / copolimer choice above, I cannot say if
      > there are better/cheaper alternatives. Be aware that there are
      > really good epoxies for affordable prices out there that may
      > be used with similar H-Nu470 / Iodonium-Triarylsulfonium
      > combinations.
      > That's the beauty of these systems, they are pretty flexible!
      > For Acrylate
      > 1A) Amine acrylate or acrylated amine ( I suppouse is the
      > same)
      > 2A) H-Nu 470 ----> from www.sglinc.com
      > 3A) Iodonium Hexafluoroantimonate salt (Co-initiator) ¿This is
      > OPPI?
      > 4A) Acrilate resin ¿Any kind of mix?
      > 5A) N,N-Dimethylamide (DMAA ) for prdissolve initiators
      > 6A) Borate V (May be to test more reactivity)
      > Amine acrylate or acrylated amine is the same and they are
      > co-polymers that also have an amine group that serves as an
      > activator. Good stuff, but may not be necessary if you use
      > DMMA.
      > I doubt that you will need the 3A) Iodonium
      > Hexafluoroantimonate salt (Co-initiator) if you use the H-Nu
      > 470IL, where activators are blended together with the
      > photoinitiator. I recommend this to make the formulation
      > easier.
      > 5A) N,N-Dimethylamide (DMAA ) is usefull not only to dissolve
      > the initiator, but this will accelerate the curing of thin
      > films of resin. There is something called Oxygen scavenging in
      > thin layers of Acrylic resins, where air Oxygen hampers the
      > radical polymerization of Acrylic resins. Adding DMMA
      > significantly improves this condition.
      > 6A) Borate V may not be necessary unless you want a really
      > high reactive resin that cures in seconds. Borate V may also
      > cause your resin mix shelve life to be drastically reduced.
      > There is a specific H-Nu blend that already contains Borate V.
      > Check out the wiki specs file for blend variants.
      > As for Acrylate resins, check out the wiki where I will be
      > posting several alternatives to be used with H-Nu and BAPO
      > variants
      > http://3dprinter.wikidot.com/photoactive-resins
      > Cheers and good luck!!

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