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Nickel Plating an old bug

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  • William
    Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base
    Message 1 of 13 , Oct 30, 2011
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      Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
      With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
      I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
      Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
      Any thoughts or suggestions?

      Bill wv1n

      PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
    • Joseph L Pontek
      GE, Bill. I am going to be doing the same with a 1912 Vibroplex. I get to see it first hand next Tuesday when I get to my daughter s up in Texas (my US
      Message 2 of 13 , Oct 30, 2011
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        GE, Bill.

        I am going to be doing the same with a 1912 Vibroplex. I get to see it
        first hand next Tuesday when I get to my daughter's up in Texas (my
        US address for K8JP.) I acquired one of those DIY copper & nickel
        plating kits from Caswell. They do work, but the wand type takes a
        lot of rubbing. You could do the damper and front support (main frame?)
        fairly well or even better with the DIY kit. For the base, though,
        I would recommend cleaning it well and taking it to a plating shop.
        You can DIY, though, as well and they do come out nice. I could
        take all the parts into a plating shop as well, but it is neat to do your
        own small parts. I may get the materials for the immersion nickel
        plating this trip to the US. My base will be done in the old style
        Japanning of the base myself with asphaltum. I am going to do
        a full restoration of mine as properly described by Bill, W4PAL,
        in his book "How to Restore Telegraph Keys." In fact, I will be
        bring back a Watchmaker's lath and other tools for the project
        and other tasks I have down here in my tool rental and tool repair
        shop.

        One thing with small parts done by plating shops is their plating is
        too heavy sometimes. It is OK with the likes of a base, though.

        Congratulations on the 1919 Blue Racer acquisition, Bill. E Bay
        screwed me when bidding on a 1928 Vibroplex Junior I wanted for
        a restoration project. I did acquire a 1955 Blue Racer Deluxe
        later for a nice price. I may have to have that base re-chromed,
        but I will see it first hand when I get to Texas as well.

        I am making carriers like the old style Vibroplex carriers, but
        using nicer wood instead of plywood and leatherette. I have
        some almost done using teak now, but think I will refrain from
        using teak or mahogany in the future as those woods are rough
        on my cutting and planing tools because of the silica in them. I
        have some other nice looking woods in mind for the next
        production run for both standard and Blue Racer sizes.

        161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty& Sidney Pontek
        P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
        (Hopkins Village) Belize
        011-501-503-7346 Belize
        011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
        903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
        V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
        FOC 1743 CWops 876, A1OP, SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
        LotW
        Skype: v31joepalooka
        http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair


        On 10/30/2011 9:33 PM, William wrote:
        > Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
        > With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
        > I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
        > Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
        > Any thoughts or suggestions?
        >
        > Bill wv1n
        >
        > PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
        >
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
      • Joseph L Pontek
        Oh. I forgot, Bill. I would do the copper, then nickel plating as it gives you deeper looking shine, both with DIY or from a shop. 161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena),
        Message 3 of 13 , Oct 30, 2011
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          Oh. I forgot, Bill. I would do the copper, then nickel plating
          as it gives you deeper looking shine, both with DIY or from a shop.

          161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty& Sidney Pontek
          P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
          (Hopkins Village) Belize
          011-501-503-7346 Belize
          011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
          903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
          V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
          FOC 1743 CWops 876, A1OP, SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
          LotW
          Skype: v31joepalooka
          http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair


          On 10/30/2011 9:33 PM, William wrote:
          > Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
          > With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
          > I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
          > Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
          > Any thoughts or suggestions?
          >
          > Bill wv1n
          >
          > PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
          >
          >
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
        • k4oso
          Hello Bill, I had a situation similar to yours about 4 years ago. I bought a Blue Racer Deluxe on Ebay. However, mine was in slightly better condition
          Message 4 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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            Hello Bill,
            I had a situation similar to yours about 4 years ago. I bought a Blue Racer Deluxe on Ebay. However, mine was in slightly better condition because a few of the flakes were still hanging on for dear life. I disassembled mine and went to the local plater here in Richmond. He stripped and replated the base, damper and mainframe for $30. Easy..just dropped it off and picked it up 10 days later. Now, its a pretty face again.
            I'm glad I didn't screw around with DIY for the price I paid.
            Good luck,
            Milt k4oso


            --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "William" <fretjock@...> wrote:
            >
            > Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
            > With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
            > I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
            > Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
            > Any thoughts or suggestions?
            >
            > Bill wv1n
            >
            > PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
            >
          • k4oso
            By the way Bill, I had mine chromed which, I understand, is one less plating step. Milt
            Message 5 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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              By the way Bill,
              I had mine chromed which, I understand, is one less plating step.
              Milt

              --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "William" <fretjock@...> wrote:
              >
              > Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
              > With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
              > I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
              > Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
              > Any thoughts or suggestions?
              >
              > Bill wv1n
              >
              > PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
              >
            • William Schmidt
              Milt, Actually chrome plating requires a nickel base. So chrome is one step more. So I think I ll use a professional for the base and the DIY kit for the
              Message 6 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                Milt,
                Actually chrome plating requires a nickel base.  So chrome is one step more.
                So I think I'll use a professional for the base and the DIY kit for the small bits.
                Bill  wv1n


                To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com
                From: k4oso@...
                Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 12:14:05 +0000
                Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Nickel Plating an old bug

                 
                By the way Bill,
                I had mine chromed which, I understand, is one less plating step.
                Milt

                --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "William" <fretjock@...> wrote:
                >
                > Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
                > With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
                > I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
                > Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
                > Any thoughts or suggestions?
                >
                > Bill wv1n
                >
                > PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
                >


              • k4oso
                Ha ha....What I meant was nickel requires one less step...copper, nickel, chrome :-) Milt PS: The important part of the message was about the local plater.
                Message 7 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                  Ha ha....What I meant was nickel requires one less step...copper, nickel, chrome :-)
                  Milt
                  PS: The important part of the message was about the local plater.

                  --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, William Schmidt <fretjock@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > Milt,
                  > Actually chrome plating requires a nickel base. So chrome is one step more.
                  > So I think I'll use a professional for the base and the DIY kit for the small bits.
                  > Bill wv1n
                  >
                  > To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com
                  > From: k4oso@...
                  > Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 12:14:05 +0000
                  > Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Nickel Plating an old bug
                  >
                  >
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                  >
                  > By the way Bill,
                  >
                  > I had mine chromed which, I understand, is one less plating step.
                  >
                  > Milt
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "William" <fretjock@> wrote:
                  >
                  > >
                  >
                  > > Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
                  >
                  > > With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
                  >
                  > > I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
                  >
                  > > Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
                  >
                  > > Any thoughts or suggestions?
                  >
                  > >
                  >
                  > > Bill wv1n
                  >
                  > >
                  >
                  > > PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
                  >
                  > >
                  >
                • k4oso@aol.com
                  In my opinion, it does nt make a lot of sense to DIY the damper and mainframe if the plater will do them all for only about $5 more than doing the base alone
                  Message 8 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                    In my opinion, it does'nt make a lot of sense to DIY the damper and mainframe if the plater will do them all for only about $5 more than doing the base alone (thats what my guy quoted me before I decided to let him do it all).  The kit has to cost way more than that.  Unless you just want to say you did it.
                    Milt
                     
                    In a message dated 10/31/2011 9:43:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, fretjock@... writes:
                    Milt,
                    Actually chrome plating requires a nickel base.  So chrome is one step more.
                    So I think I'll use a professional for the base and the DIY kit for the small bits.
                    Bill  wv1n
                     
                  • Joseph L Pontek
                    Chrome requires two steps, Milt. Typically copper, then the chromium. Nickel can be done in one step, but copper first gives polished nickel a deeper shine,
                    Message 9 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                      Chrome requires two steps, Milt.
                      Typically copper, then the chromium.
                      Nickel can be done in one step, but copper first gives
                      polished nickel a deeper shine, supposedly.

                      161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty& Sidney Pontek
                      P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
                      (Hopkins Village) Belize
                      011-501-503-7346 Belize
                      011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
                      903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
                      V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
                      FOC 1743 CWops 876, A1OP, SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
                      LotW
                      Skype: v31joepalooka
                      http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair


                      On 10/31/2011 6:14 AM, k4oso wrote:
                      > By the way Bill,
                      > I had mine chromed which, I understand, is one less plating step.
                      > Milt
                      >
                      > --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "William"<fretjock@...> wrote:
                      >> Recently I picked up an old (1919) blue racer in serious need of some TLC. It was so rusty that I needed to lift up the name plate to discover that the base used to be nickel plated.
                      >> With everything dismantled I was able to remove the rust from the base and now it is down to the base iron.
                      >> I would like to replate the base but I'm not sure how to proceed. Has anyone every used a home DIY plating kit? Do professional platers do small pieces?
                      >> Or should I just repaint it black or cobalt blue?
                      >> Any thoughts or suggestions?
                      >>
                      >> Bill wv1n
                      >>
                      >> PS: I'll also need to replate the damper and front support.
                      >>
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > ------------------------------------
                      >
                      > Yahoo! Groups Links
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      ____________________________________________________________
                      60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
                      Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
                      http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4eaeb2752d93f8c331st05vuc
                    • k4oso@aol.com
                      I ll let you be the expert on the process, Joe. My Racer is all done and looking good. ha ha. It was not expensive and did not expose me to hazardous
                      Message 10 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                        I'll let you be the expert on the process, Joe.  My Racer is all done and looking good. ha ha.  It was not expensive and did not expose me to hazardous chemicals.  Thats what I call a cool process.
                        161, Milt
                        In a message dated 10/31/2011 10:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, k8jp@... writes:
                        Chrome requires two steps, Milt.
                        Typically copper, then the chromium.
                        Nickel can be done in one step, but copper first gives
                        polished nickel a deeper shine, supposedly.
                         
                      • Joseph L Pontek
                        When I bought my 1955 Blue Racer Deluxe, it was commented that there is minor pitting on the base, so I may have my base done. In 55 they did chrome, but not
                        Message 11 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                          When I bought my 1955 Blue Racer Deluxe, it was commented that there is
                          minor pitting on the base, so I may have my base done.  In '55 they did chrome,
                          but not as good as today. For chrome, I recommend going to the shop for that.
                          I only do the nickel at home as it is not hazardous.  Also, my 1912 upper parts
                          were originally done in nickel and I am doing a restoration, hence the nickel
                          plating and the base will be done in the old Japanning way with asphaltum,
                          a lengthy, but well worth it process, I believe.

                          I will see my 'new' keys tomorrow night when I get to my home in Texas.
                          I am excited about that.  I will be getting my watchmakers lath as well.
                          If the Blue Racer base needs to be re-chromed, I may try to have it done
                          before I return home to Belize in three weeks.
                          161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty & Sidney Pontek
                          P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
                          (Hopkins Village) Belize
                          011-501-503-7346 Belize
                          011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
                          903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
                          V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
                          FOC 1743 CWops 876, A1OP, SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
                          LotW
                          Skype: v31joepalooka
                          http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair 

                          On 10/31/2011 8:47 AM, k4oso@... wrote:
                          I'll let you be the expert on the process, Joe.  My Racer is all done and looking good. ha ha.  It was not expensive and did not expose me to hazardous chemicals.  Thats what I call a cool process.
                          161, Milt
                          In a message dated 10/31/2011 10:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, k8jp@... writes:
                          Chrome requires two steps, Milt.
                          Typically copper, then the chromium.
                          Nickel can be done in one step, but copper first gives
                          polished nickel a deeper shine, supposedly.
                           


                          ____________________________________________________________
                          60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
                          Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
                          ConsumerLifestyles.org
                        • William Schmidt
                          Joe, Where do you get asphaltum? Does the final result look different Than powder coat or enamel? Bill / wv1n Velo, ergo sum.
                          Message 12 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                            Joe,
                            Where do you get asphaltum?  Does the final result look different
                            Than powder coat or enamel?
                            Bill / wv1n

                            Velo, ergo sum.

                            On Oct 31, 2011, at 11:13 AM, Joseph L Pontek <k8jp@...> wrote:

                             

                            When I bought my 1955 Blue Racer Deluxe, it was commented that there is
                            minor pitting on the base, so I may have my base done.  In '55 they did chrome,
                            but not as good as today. For chrome, I recommend going to the shop for that.
                            I only do the nickel at home as it is not hazardous.  Also, my 1912 upper parts
                            were originally done in nickel and I am doing a restoration, hence the nickel
                            plating and the base will be done in the old Japanning way with asphaltum,
                            a lengthy, but well worth it process, I believe.

                            I will see my 'new' keys tomorrow night when I get to my home in Texas.
                            I am excited about that.  I will be getting my watchmakers lath as well.
                            If the Blue Racer base needs to be re-chromed, I may try to have it done
                            before I return home to Belize in three weeks.

                            161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty & Sidney Pontek
                            P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
                            (Hopkins Village) Belize
                            011-501-503-7346 Belize
                            011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
                            903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
                            V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
                            FOC 1743 CWops 876, A1OP, SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
                            LotW
                            Skype: v31joepalooka
                            http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair 

                            On 10/31/2011 8:47 AM, k4oso@... wrote:
                            I'll let you be the expert on the process, Joe.  My Racer is all done and looking good. ha ha.  It was not expensive and did not expose me to hazardous chemicals.  Thats what I call a cool process.
                            161, Milt
                            In a message dated 10/31/2011 10:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, k8jp@... writes:
                            Chrome requires two steps, Milt.
                            Typically copper, then the chromium.
                            Nickel can be done in one step, but copper first gives
                            polished nickel a deeper shine, supposedly.
                             


                            ____________________________________________________________
                            60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
                            Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
                            ConsumerLifestyles.org

                          • Joseph L Pontek
                            Hi, Bill. Sorry to take so long to reply. I had to finish the November News Sheet for the FOC and now I am packing for the trip to Texas tomorrow. I found
                            Message 13 of 13 , Oct 31, 2011
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                              Hi, Bill.

                              Sorry to take so long to reply.  I had to finish the November News Sheet for the FOC
                              and now I am packing for the trip to Texas tomorrow.

                              I found asphaltum on E-Bay and just bid on it.  You can find it liquid form as varnish.
                              I am going to try and do it the traditional way.  I have had some guys tell me the
                              powder coating are good, but I cannot say myself.  The enamels can be good if
                              the surface is properly prepared and it is baked as well.  I used to go body work
                              back in the 50s and 60s, so I remember the hard work involved in surface preparation
                              before painting.  Asphaltum is, basically, a black varnish. Proper formulas abound,
                              but Bill, W4PAL, recommends 2 parts boiled linseed oil, 5 parts turpentine, 3 parts
                              asphaltum powder and optional 3 parts rosin.  The rosin appears to sometimes
                              gives a less smoother finish then without it.  I will go without it myself this time.
                              Bill says it takes a minimum of 5 coats for a good finish.  After these, you will have
                              hard plastic like coating.  Do a Google search for it.  Bill's book lists a source,
                              but they are out of business.  It is used for art work and printing as well.  I think
                              Model-T Fords were painted with it.  It rarely wears off, but is chipped away.

                              If you want what I call the bible of key restoration, get the "HOW TO RESTORE
                              TELEGRAPH KEYS" by W. R. Smith.  I just got mine out of my suit case as it
                              is book I constantly read and reread.

                              http://www.wrsmithtelegraphkeys.com
                              or
                              http://w1tp.com/mwr.htm








                              161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty & Sidney Pontek
                              P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
                              (Hopkins Village) Belize
                              011-501-503-7346 Belize
                              011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
                              903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
                              V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
                              FOC 1743 CWops 876, A1OP, SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
                              LotW
                              Skype: v31joepalooka
                              http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair 

                              On 10/31/2011 4:22 PM, William Schmidt wrote:
                              Joe,
                              Where do you get asphaltum?  Does the final result look different
                              Than powder coat or enamel?
                              Bill / wv1n

                              Velo, ergo sum.

                              On Oct 31, 2011, at 11:13 AM, Joseph L Pontek <k8jp@...> wrote:

                               

                              When I bought my 1955 Blue Racer Deluxe, it was commented that there is
                              minor pitting on the base, so I may have my base done.  In '55 they did chrome,
                              but not as good as today. For chrome, I recommend going to the shop for that.
                              I only do the nickel at home as it is not hazardous.  Also, my 1912 upper parts
                              were originally done in nickel and I am doing a restoration, hence the nickel
                              plating and the base will be done in the old Japanning way with asphaltum,
                              a lengthy, but well worth it process, I believe.

                              I will see my 'new' keys tomorrow night when I get to my home in Texas.
                              I am excited about that.  I will be getting my watchmakers lath as well.
                              If the Blue Racer base needs to be re-chromed, I may try to have it done
                              before I return home to Belize in three weeks.

                              161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty & Sidney Pontek
                              P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District
                              (Hopkins Village) Belize
                              011-501-503-7346 Belize
                              011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
                              903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
                              V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
                              FOC 1743 CWops 876, A1OP, SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
                              LotW
                              Skype: v31joepalooka
                              http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair 

                              On 10/31/2011 8:47 AM, k4oso@... wrote:
                              I'll let you be the expert on the process, Joe.  My Racer is all done and looking good. ha ha.  It was not expensive and did not expose me to hazardous chemicals.  Thats what I call a cool process.
                              161, Milt
                              In a message dated 10/31/2011 10:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, k8jp@... writes:
                              Chrome requires two steps, Milt.
                              Typically copper, then the chromium.
                              Nickel can be done in one step, but copper first gives
                              polished nickel a deeper shine, supposedly.
                               


                              ____________________________________________________________
                              60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
                              Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
                              ConsumerLifestyles.org
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