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Re: [cw_bugs] Re: Simplex Auto

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  • Merv Schweigert
    A good replacement for a spring is to buy a feeler guage they can be found in individual sizes many times at auto repair parts stores. I dont remember the
    Message 1 of 10 , Jul 10, 2011
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      A good replacement for a spring is to buy a "feeler guage"  they can be found in
      individual sizes many times at auto repair parts stores.  I dont remember the
      exact size but perhaps 20 thousands thick feeler guage stock,  you can mic
      the old one to be sure,  a new spring can be cut and bent from this spring
      material quite well and any size new spring can be made. 
      They also used to be called go - no go guage here in the states. 
      73 Merv K9FD/KH6
      I now own another bug, an Australian made Simplex Auto, sadly the flat spring steel blade that has the dot contact on it has fractured near the mounting post and is now too short, it was two inches long, now it is an inch and three quarter long, if I cannot find a length of spring steel the right thickness and length the only method of repair I can see is to rivet an extension onto the end and hope it works ok but I will try hard to find the spring steel, I am ripping apart every redundant printer I have in my shed to see if there is anything resembling what I want.

      73 Wade VK4WM
      SKCC # 5621
       


    • vk4wm
      G day Merv That is an excellent suggestion Merv, would you believe I had a set of feeler gauges right in front of me that I had been using to set the
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 11, 2011
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        G'day Merv
        That is an excellent suggestion Merv, would you believe I had a set of feeler gauges right in front of me that I had been using to set the contacts! but it didnt register at all to my brain! I have made up a new spring using some spring steel out of a steel tape measure, a great idea suggested to me by Pete WB2QLL and it worked out really well, the end where the tape attaches to the retractor spring even had the correct size hole to take the silver contact from the old spring, I removed the contact by using a pair of small side cutters and pliers to gently work the peened over end until it was worked back into a size that fell out of the hole in the original spring then I gently peened the end down again until the contact was nice and tight in the new spring, I also found that a Adel Nibbler just chomped the excess material away until I could use a fine file and get the sides parallel again and the right length (2 inches) to the spring, BTW the original spring is only 15 thou thick, when I tried using the key I was dissapointed because it didnt work properly, it was double bouncing but then I realized the adjusting screw was on the wrong side of the spring, fixed that and away it went, some of the photos on the web in various collections show that adjuster screw to be on the wrong side!

        Now I am tracking down black crackle paint to refinish the base of the Simplex Auto it is in poor shape, I am getting a spray can from a Auto refinishing supply company but I have tried that stuff before with mixed results but it has been interesting to see what is on the web about it too, I have a HRO 5T that needs refurbishing so I want something reliable to work with, the old process of stoving the painted panel to maximise the wrinkle seems to have been lost.

        73 Wade VK4WM

        --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, Merv Schweigert <k9fd@...> wrote:
        >
        > A good replacement for a spring is to buy a "feeler guage" they can be
        > found in
        > individual sizes many times at auto repair parts stores. I dont
        > remember the
        > exact size but perhaps 20 thousands thick feeler guage stock, you can mic
        > the old one to be sure, a new spring can be cut and bent from this spring
        > material quite well and any size new spring can be made.
        > They also used to be called go - no go guage here in the states.
        > 73 Merv K9FD/KH6
        > >
        > >
        > > I now own another bug, an Australian made Simplex Auto, sadly the flat
        > > spring steel blade that has the dot contact on it has fractured near
        > > the mounting post and is now too short, it was two inches long, now it
        > > is an inch and three quarter long, if I cannot find a length of spring
        > > steel the right thickness and length the only method of repair I can
        > > see is to rivet an extension onto the end and hope it works ok but I
        > > will try hard to find the spring steel, I am ripping apart every
        > > redundant printer I have in my shed to see if there is anything
        > > resembling what I want.
        > >
        > > 73 Wade VK4WM
        > > SKCC # 5621
        > >
        >
      • Fred Maas
        Wade, I have used Krylon Wrinkle Finish # 3370 successfully. Look at the opening page right angle bug on my website, to see what it looks
        Message 3 of 10 , Jul 11, 2011
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          Wade,
           
          I have used Krylon Wrinkle Finish # 3370 successfully.  Look at the opening page right angle bug on my website, < www.KT5X.com > to see what it looks like. 
           
          Try it on a test surface before trying it on the bug.  It needs to be applied fairly thick.  It doesn't wrinkle up right away, but over the next two DAYS, with most of the wrinkling happening in the first 12 hours.  It needs to be in a good temperature environment, room temperature is good.  also, let it harden for two WEEKS or more if you can stand the wait before reassembling the bug.  Otherwise, the hardware will slowly sink into the paint which is thick.
           
          73,  Fred - kt5x
           

          G'day Merv
          That is an excellent suggestion Merv, would you believe I had a set of feeler gauges right in front of me that I had been using to set the contacts! but it didnt register at all to my brain! I have made up a new spring using some spring steel out of a steel tape measure, a great idea suggested to me by Pete WB2QLL and it worked out really well, the end where the tape attaches to the retractor spring even had the correct size hole to take the silver contact from the old spring, I removed the contact by using a pair of small side cutters and pliers to gently work the peened over end until it was worked back into a size that fell out of the hole in the original spring then I gently peened the end down again until the contact was nice and tight in the new spring, I also found that a Adel Nibbler just chomped the excess material away until I could use a fine file and get the sides parallel again and the right length (2 inches) to the spring, BTW the original spring is only 15 thou thick, when I tried using the key I was dissapointed because it didnt work properly, it was double bouncing but then I realized the adjusting screw was on the wrong side of the spring, fixed that and away it went, some of the photos on the web in various collections show that adjuster screw to be on the wrong side!

          Now I am tracking down black crackle paint to refinish the base of the Simplex Auto it is in poor shape, I am getting a spray can from a Auto refinishing supply company but I have tried that stuff before with mixed results but it has been interesting to see what is on the web about it too, I have a HRO 5T that needs refurbishing so I want something reliable to work with, the old process of stoving the painted panel to maximise the wrinkle seems to have been lost.

          73 Wade VK4WM

        • vk4wm
          Wow! what a great restoration job and what an interesting key the Codetrol is, I can understand your reluctance to see it go Fred, so does it work on the same
          Message 4 of 10 , Jul 12, 2011
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            Wow! what a great restoration job and what an interesting key the Codetrol is, I can understand your reluctance to see it go Fred, so does it work on the same principle as the Simplex Auto, releasing the pendulum or is it like the standard Vibroplex action but sideways instead? hard to work out from the photographs.

            That wrinkle finish looks great, I pick up the can from a local supplier tomorrow I hope but I doubt if it is the same brand as what you used, importing aerosol cans into Australia has some problems I thought I read somewhere, if this local stuff does not work out I will have to consider doing that if I can.

            Sadly these days any access to the electroplating shop that was part of the Reclamation Engineering business I was part of for 21 years has long gone, good platers here are hard to find nowdays.

            Thanks Fred, great web pages.

            73 Wade VK4WM

            --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Maas" <just.one.hill@...> wrote:
            >
            > Wade,
            >
            > I have used Krylon Wrinkle Finish # 3370 successfully. Look at the opening page right angle bug on my website, < www.KT5X.com > to see what it looks like.
            >
            > Try it on a test surface before trying it on the bug. It needs to be applied fairly thick. It doesn't wrinkle up right away, but over the next two DAYS, with most of the wrinkling happening in the first 12 hours. It needs to be in a good temperature environment, room temperature is good. also, let it harden for two WEEKS or more if you can stand the wait before reassembling the bug. Otherwise, the hardware will slowly sink into the paint which is thick.
            >
            > 73, Fred - kt5x
            >
            >
          • Fred Maas
            The Codetrol has a mechansim like the Vibroplex. It feels like a Vibroplex. They were made in the early 1950 s, I say, They, were made, in fact, it seems
            Message 5 of 10 , Jul 12, 2011
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              The Codetrol has a mechansim like the Vibroplex.  It feels like a Vibroplex.  They were made in the early 1950's, I say, "They," were made, in fact, it seems that very few were actually made.  Eight are known to exist including the one I restored which was a prototype given to a telegrapher to try out, then, because he didn't really like it and it had never been actually finished, passed on to a kid.  I doubt if twenty were ever made.  I don't consider it a significant key, but a few collectors have chosen to pay handsomely for them (as in thousands).
               
              Yes, I think shipping aerosol cans has problems, but I imagine something similar is made there.  Like I say, try it out on a test surface to get a sense for how thick to lay it on to get the kind of wrinkling you want.  And remember, the wrinkling takes place over time, not immediately.
               
              73,  Fred
               
               

               

              Wow! what a great restoration job and what an interesting key the Codetrol is, I can understand your reluctance to see it go Fred, so does it work on the same principle as the Simplex Auto, releasing the pendulum or is it like the standard Vibroplex action but sideways instead? hard to work out from the photographs.

              That wrinkle finish looks great, I pick up the can from a local supplier tomorrow I hope but I doubt if it is the same brand as what you used, importing aerosol cans into Australia has some problems I thought I read somewhere, if this local stuff does not work out I will have to consider doing that if I can.

              Sadly these days any access to the electroplating shop that was part of the Reclamation Engineering business I was part of for 21 years has long gone, good platers here are hard to find nowdays.

              Thanks Fred, great web pages.

              73 Wade VK4WM

            • Joseph L Pontek
              Hi, guys. Something I tried way back when was to use different thinners with enamels. I used lacquer thinner once. I painted it on a panel and the rapid
              Message 6 of 10 , Jul 12, 2011
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                Hi, guys.

                Something I tried way back when was to use different thinners with
                enamels. I used lacquer thinner once. I painted it on a panel and the
                rapid evaporation caused the winkle effect. After 3 or 4 days, I baked
                the panel and it became very hard.  There is another thinner that is
                used to speed up enamel "drying" and it is also used as the fuel for
                Zippo cigarette lighters, naphtha.  It needs to be accelerated with
                heat, though.  The wrinkle finish is caused by the rapid, but uneven
                evaporation of the thinner.

                Different enamel respond differently, so test on scrap first.

                161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty & Sidney Pontek
                P.O. Box 280
                Dangriga
                Stann Creek District
                Belize
                (Hopkins Village)
                011-501-503-7346 Belize
                011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
                903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
                V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
                k8jp@...
                FOC 1743, CWops 876, A1OP
                SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
                LotW
                Skype: v31joepalooka

                On 7/12/2011 7:40 AM, Fred Maas wrote:
                Yes, I think shipping aerosol cans has problems, but I imagine something similar is made there.  Like I say, try it out on a test surface to get a sense for how thick to lay it on to get the kind of wrinkling you want.  And remember, the wrinkling takes place over time, not immediately.

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              • vk4wm
                G day Joe I will be trying as many suggestions as I can, thank you for your s Joe I will most certainly try it, I got the spray can of crackle paint today from
                Message 7 of 10 , Jul 13, 2011
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                  G'day Joe

                  I will be trying as many suggestions as I can, thank you for your's Joe I will most certainly try it, I got the spray can of crackle paint today from the Auto parts shop, it is a high temperature paint for use around engines, I dont know until I try how fine the crackle finish will be, there are a few ideas on the web about how to crackle paint, apparently Tung oil was added to paint too in the past but info is scant about just how the process went.

                  Interesting times ahead!

                  73 Wade VK4WM

                  --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, Joseph L Pontek <k8jp@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Hi, guys.
                  >
                  > Something I tried way back when was to use different thinners with
                  > enamels. I used lacquer thinner once. I painted it on a panel and the
                  > rapid evaporation caused the winkle effect. After 3 or 4 days, I baked
                  > the panel and it became very hard. There is another thinner that is
                  > used to speed up enamel "drying" and it is also used as the fuel for
                  > Zippo cigarette lighters, naphtha. It needs to be accelerated with
                  > heat, though. The wrinkle finish is caused by the rapid, but uneven
                  > evaporation of the thinner.
                  >
                  > Different enamel respond differently, so test on scrap first.
                  >
                • Joseph L Pontek
                  Another source of information would OLD ARRL handbooks. I believe that is where I first read about doing the crinkle finish. I had built something and the
                  Message 8 of 10 , Jul 13, 2011
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                    Another source of information would "OLD" ARRL handbooks.  I believe that
                    is where I first read about doing the crinkle finish.  I had built something and
                    the 19" rack panel was either bare steel or aluminium.  I have used that spray
                    can wrinkle finish paint with good success.  It seems like it required a think
                    coat, but that was awhile back.  Having worked in car and radio refinishing,
                    I always enjoy learning and trying different methods, especially when try to
                    restore an object.  I wish I could afford a small machinist lath so I could make
                    some of these small parts.  Maybe some day in the future.

                    161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty & Sidney Pontek
                    P.O. Box 280
                    Dangriga
                    Stann Creek District
                    Belize
                    (Hopkins Village)
                    011-501-503-7346 Belize
                    011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular)
                    903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas)
                    V31JP K8JP VP5/K8JP VP5JP K8JP/VA2
                    k8jp@...
                    FOC 1743, CWops 876, A1OP
                    SKCC 3171T, FISTS 7625 CC 951
                    LotW
                    Skype: v31joepalooka

                    On 7/13/2011 7:25 AM, vk4wm wrote:
                    G'day Joe
                    
                    I will be trying as many suggestions as I can, thank you for your's Joe I will most certainly try it, I got the spray can of crackle paint today from the Auto parts shop, it is a high temperature paint for use around engines, I dont know until I try how fine the crackle finish will be, there are a few ideas on the web about how to crackle paint, apparently Tung oil was added to paint too in the past but info is scant about just how the process went.
                    
                    Interesting times ahead!
                    
                    73 Wade VK4WM
                    
                    --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, Joseph L Pontek <k8jp@...> wrote:
                    
                    Hi, guys.
                    
                    Something I tried way back when was to use different thinners with
                    enamels. I used lacquer thinner once. I painted it on a panel and the
                    rapid evaporation caused the winkle effect. After 3 or 4 days, I baked
                    the panel and it became very hard.  There is another thinner that is
                    used to speed up enamel "drying" and it is also used as the fuel for
                    Zippo cigarette lighters, naphtha.  It needs to be accelerated with
                    heat, though.  The wrinkle finish is caused by the rapid, but uneven
                    evaporation of the thinner.
                    
                    Different enamel respond differently, so test on scrap first.
                    
                    
                    
                    
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                  • morsemad
                    Hello Wade ... I just measured the contact spring on my Simplex Auto and it is 1 & 3/4 long. Not 2 . Also it is 1/8 wide ..... Perhaps just an adjustment of
                    Message 9 of 10 , Sep 8, 2011
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                      Hello Wade ...
                      I just measured the contact spring on my Simplex Auto and it is 1 & 3/4" long. Not 2".
                      Also it is 1/8" wide ..... Perhaps just an adjustment of the movable
                      dot contact on the pendulum would do the trick ?
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