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Vibroplex Rivets

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  • Jack B.
    I d like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the rivets which hold down the
    Message 1 of 21 , Dec 1, 2008
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      I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
      Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
      rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
      punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
      afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
      them out.

      Thanks / 73

      Jack - N0NV
    • Richard Meiss
      Hi, Jack - While I have not done the operation that you are describing, here is one suggestion. A very narrow punch is going to be hard to obtain, especially
      Message 2 of 21 , Dec 1, 2008
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        Hi, Jack -

             While I have not done the operation that you are describing, here is one suggestion.  A very narrow punch is going to be hard to obtain, especially if it is to fit the holes in the key base.  A possible solution is to measure the diameter of the hole by testing it with a series of drill bits of known size.  Then obtain a "drill blank" in that size.  This is a piece of drill rod without anything done to it, and it can be used as a punch. As to removing the Vibroplex label, I will defer to those who know (and listen intently, because I need to know this as well.

            73 de Rich, WB9LPU
           http://wb9lpu.googlepages.com



        -----Original Message-----
        From: "Jack B."
        Sent: Dec 1, 2008 4:23 PM
        To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [cw_bugs] Vibroplex Rivets


        I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
        Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
        rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
        punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
        afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
        them out.

        Thanks / 73

        Jack - N0NV

      • David Ring
        Hello Jack, Go to any hardware store and purchase a 1/16 inch pin punch. Take it home, and unassemble your bug - you might want to download the exploded
        Message 3 of 21 , Dec 1, 2008
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          Hello Jack,

          Go to any hardware store and purchase a 1/16 inch pin punch. Take it
          home, and unassemble your bug - you might want to download the
          exploded diagram of the Original bug to do so. I reassemble the
          various layers of machine screws, insulation straps, washers,
          conducting straps, insulating feed through inserts, binding posts and
          so forth just as they were installed - but I use a small piece of a
          torn off card which I punch to show where the base went! This saves
          me time when reassembling the key. When the base is cleared of parts,
          you will have only three parts left - the base itself, the gold plated
          brass plate, the Vibroplex serial number tag which is held by two
          rivets. Turn the base over, place over two solid objects - two small
          lengths of 2x4 or two books will do nicely, and position the base
          bottom side up so that it is supported by the two books so that only
          the ends are supported leaving the center of the base unsupported.

          Take a small tack hammer and the pin punch, position the punch over
          one of the rivets and tap gently. Repeat as needed until you move the
          rivet outward from the top. When you have about half of the rivet
          out, you can grasp the shaft with a chain nose pliers and gently twist
          both side to side and upward and the rivet will come out. Repeat for
          the other rivet.

          There is a device that I've seen, but never used, nor do I own one,
          that is like the nail set (device for countersinking nails into wood)
          but the end is like a bored out like a hollow rounded half walnut
          shell. The device fits over the head of the rivet and does not cover
          it so that the device comes below the head of the rivet: In this way
          it is useful for tapping the rivet back into the hole and because it
          does not extend below the head of the rivet, it does not mar the base.
          I don't have one, so I use a tack hammer and then when I get near to
          fully inserting the rivet, I get a piece of cardboard which is notched
          and place it around the rivet, or more recently I use a flat chisel
          parallel to the base and hit it with the tack hammer until the rivet
          is fully inserted. I have been very successful with this method,
          except for the first time when I did not take all these precautions.
          My failure resulted in hitting the rivet with a nail set which wasn't
          hollowed out, the hammer hit the nail set as intended, but the nail
          set slipped and made a decorative indentation in the chrome plated
          base. This resulted in a fabulous memory of popular cuss words that I
          once heard a bo's'n sing when hitting his thumb with a heavy hammer.
          I thought I had forgotten the merry language of my merchant marine
          (navy) days, but I sung an equal song when I saw what I had done. I
          had the base re-chromed and profited from my error and cussing song.

          You would be better advised to have the original gold plated plate
          replated professionally with a heavy 24k plate as the Vibroplex
          plating - as you have already noticed - leaves much to be desired. I
          had this done and the results were magnificent. If I remember
          correctly this consisted of stripping the metal to bare brass, copper
          plating, nickel plating then 24k gold. The Industrial gold plate (if
          I remember correctly) is the thickest gold plate - about 20 microns.

          I hope this is helpful.

          73

          DR

          David Ring, N1EA
          -30-

          On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 4:23 PM, Jack B. <nzeronv@...> wrote:
          >
          > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
          > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
          > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
          > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
          > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
          > them out.
          >
          > Thanks / 73
          >
          > Jack - N0NV
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >
        • k4oso
          I d just like to add to what David has said. I have removed several of these pins. If you re lucky, it will cooperate with your pin punch as David described.
          Message 4 of 21 , Dec 1, 2008
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            I'd just like to add to what David has said. I have removed several
            of these pins. If you're lucky, it will cooperate with your pin
            punch as David described. But it bears mentioning that some of these
            pins are "rough" (lookes kinda like rebar), for lack of a better
            term, to provide extra bite so they stay put. If you get a stubborn
            one, your pin punch might not be hard enough to resist the pressure
            and will bend. Patience is important at this juncture. Don't do
            like I did.....added temper to the pin, with the result that it
            shattered like glass. Sometimes just changing the angle of attack
            slightly when knocking out the pin will do the job. I learned this
            lesson and am now using a MUCH shorter pin punch.

            Good luck, and have fun.
            Milt k4oso

            --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "David Ring" <n1ea@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hello Jack,
            >
            > Go to any hardware store and purchase a 1/16 inch pin punch. Take
            it
            > home, and unassemble your bug - you might want to download the
            > exploded diagram of the Original bug to do so. I reassemble the
            > various layers of machine screws, insulation straps, washers,
            > conducting straps, insulating feed through inserts, binding posts
            and
            > so forth just as they were installed - but I use a small piece of a
            > torn off card which I punch to show where the base went! This saves
            > me time when reassembling the key. When the base is cleared of
            parts,
            > you will have only three parts left - the base itself, the gold
            plated
            > brass plate, the Vibroplex serial number tag which is held by two
            > rivets. Turn the base over, place over two solid objects - two
            small
            > lengths of 2x4 or two books will do nicely, and position the base
            > bottom side up so that it is supported by the two books so that only
            > the ends are supported leaving the center of the base unsupported.
            >
            > Take a small tack hammer and the pin punch, position the punch over
            > one of the rivets and tap gently. Repeat as needed until you move
            the
            > rivet outward from the top. When you have about half of the rivet
            > out, you can grasp the shaft with a chain nose pliers and gently
            twist
            > both side to side and upward and the rivet will come out. Repeat
            for
            > the other rivet.
            >
            > There is a device that I've seen, but never used, nor do I own one,
            > that is like the nail set (device for countersinking nails into
            wood)
            > but the end is like a bored out like a hollow rounded half walnut
            > shell. The device fits over the head of the rivet and does not
            cover
            > it so that the device comes below the head of the rivet: In this
            way
            > it is useful for tapping the rivet back into the hole and because it
            > does not extend below the head of the rivet, it does not mar the
            base.
            > I don't have one, so I use a tack hammer and then when I get near
            to
            > fully inserting the rivet, I get a piece of cardboard which is
            notched
            > and place it around the rivet, or more recently I use a flat chisel
            > parallel to the base and hit it with the tack hammer until the rivet
            > is fully inserted. I have been very successful with this method,
            > except for the first time when I did not take all these precautions.
            > My failure resulted in hitting the rivet with a nail set which
            wasn't
            > hollowed out, the hammer hit the nail set as intended, but the nail
            > set slipped and made a decorative indentation in the chrome plated
            > base. This resulted in a fabulous memory of popular cuss words
            that I
            > once heard a bo's'n sing when hitting his thumb with a heavy hammer.
            > I thought I had forgotten the merry language of my merchant marine
            > (navy) days, but I sung an equal song when I saw what I had done. I
            > had the base re-chromed and profited from my error and cussing song.
            >
            > You would be better advised to have the original gold plated plate
            > replated professionally with a heavy 24k plate as the Vibroplex
            > plating - as you have already noticed - leaves much to be desired.
            I
            > had this done and the results were magnificent. If I remember
            > correctly this consisted of stripping the metal to bare brass,
            copper
            > plating, nickel plating then 24k gold. The Industrial gold plate
            (if
            > I remember correctly) is the thickest gold plate - about 20 microns.
            >
            > I hope this is helpful.
            >
            > 73
            >
            > DR
            >
            > David Ring, N1EA
            > -30-
            >
            > On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 4:23 PM, Jack B. <nzeronv@...> wrote:
            > >
            > > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
            > > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace
            the
            > > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
            > > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from
            the top
            > > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to
            drive
            > > them out.
            > >
            > > Thanks / 73
            > >
            > > Jack - N0NV
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > ------------------------------------
            > >
            > > Yahoo! Groups Links
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            >
          • Jack B.
            Thanks gentlemen, I appreciate the details in what to do, and what not to do. First I ll have to buy the pin punch. I ll punch the pins only as far as I
            Message 5 of 21 , Dec 1, 2008
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              Thanks gentlemen,

              I appreciate the details in what to do, and what not to do. First
              I'll have to buy the pin punch. I'll punch the pins only as far as I
              must, then pull from the top side (if I understand correctly).

              Will I need to use an adhesive or glue to re-install the plate?
              Previously, Duco cement worked well when re-installing a rivetless /
              pinless serial number plate onto a painted base. I wonder if this or
              something similar is needed for the Presentation's gold-plated brass
              plate.

              Thanks again,

              Jack, N0NV



              --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "k4oso" <k4oso@...> wrote:
              >
              > I'd just like to add to what David has said. I have removed several
              > of these pins. If you're lucky, it will cooperate with your pin
              > punch as David described. But it bears mentioning that some of these
              > pins are "rough" (lookes kinda like rebar), for lack of a better
              > term, to provide extra bite so they stay put. If you get a stubborn
              > one, your pin punch might not be hard enough to resist the pressure
              > and will bend. Patience is important at this juncture. Don't do
              > like I did.....added temper to the pin, with the result that it
              > shattered like glass. Sometimes just changing the angle of attack
              > slightly when knocking out the pin will do the job. I learned this
              > lesson and am now using a MUCH shorter pin punch.
              >
              > Good luck, and have fun.
              > Milt k4oso
              >
              > --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "David Ring" <n1ea@> wrote:
              > >
              > > Hello Jack,
              > >
              > > Go to any hardware store and purchase a 1/16 inch pin punch. Take
              > it
              > > home, and unassemble your bug - you might want to download the
              > > exploded diagram of the Original bug to do so. I reassemble the
              > > various layers of machine screws, insulation straps, washers,
              > > conducting straps, insulating feed through inserts, binding posts
              > and
              > > so forth just as they were installed - but I use a small piece of a
              > > torn off card which I punch to show where the base went! This saves
              > > me time when reassembling the key. When the base is cleared of
              > parts,
              > > you will have only three parts left - the base itself, the gold
              > plated
              > > brass plate, the Vibroplex serial number tag which is held by two
              > > rivets. Turn the base over, place over two solid objects - two
              > small
              > > lengths of 2x4 or two books will do nicely, and position the base
              > > bottom side up so that it is supported by the two books so that only
              > > the ends are supported leaving the center of the base unsupported.
              > >
              > > Take a small tack hammer and the pin punch, position the punch over
              > > one of the rivets and tap gently. Repeat as needed until you move
              > the
              > > rivet outward from the top. When you have about half of the rivet
              > > out, you can grasp the shaft with a chain nose pliers and gently
              > twist
              > > both side to side and upward and the rivet will come out. Repeat
              > for
              > > the other rivet.
              > >
              > > There is a device that I've seen, but never used, nor do I own one,
              > > that is like the nail set (device for countersinking nails into
              > wood)
              > > but the end is like a bored out like a hollow rounded half walnut
              > > shell. The device fits over the head of the rivet and does not
              > cover
              > > it so that the device comes below the head of the rivet: In this
              > way
              > > it is useful for tapping the rivet back into the hole and because it
              > > does not extend below the head of the rivet, it does not mar the
              > base.
              > > I don't have one, so I use a tack hammer and then when I get near
              > to
              > > fully inserting the rivet, I get a piece of cardboard which is
              > notched
              > > and place it around the rivet, or more recently I use a flat chisel
              > > parallel to the base and hit it with the tack hammer until the rivet
              > > is fully inserted. I have been very successful with this method,
              > > except for the first time when I did not take all these precautions.
              > > My failure resulted in hitting the rivet with a nail set which
              > wasn't
              > > hollowed out, the hammer hit the nail set as intended, but the nail
              > > set slipped and made a decorative indentation in the chrome plated
              > > base. This resulted in a fabulous memory of popular cuss words
              > that I
              > > once heard a bo's'n sing when hitting his thumb with a heavy hammer.
              > > I thought I had forgotten the merry language of my merchant marine
              > > (navy) days, but I sung an equal song when I saw what I had done. I
              > > had the base re-chromed and profited from my error and cussing song.
              > >
              > > You would be better advised to have the original gold plated plate
              > > replated professionally with a heavy 24k plate as the Vibroplex
              > > plating - as you have already noticed - leaves much to be desired.
              > I
              > > had this done and the results were magnificent. If I remember
              > > correctly this consisted of stripping the metal to bare brass,
              > copper
              > > plating, nickel plating then 24k gold. The Industrial gold plate
              > (if
              > > I remember correctly) is the thickest gold plate - about 20 microns.
              > >
              > > I hope this is helpful.
              > >
              > > 73
              > >
              > > DR
              > >
              > > David Ring, N1EA
              > > -30-
              > >
              > > On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 4:23 PM, Jack B. <nzeronv@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
              > > > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace
              > the
              > > > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
              > > > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from
              > the top
              > > > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to
              > drive
              > > > them out.
              > > >
              > > > Thanks / 73
              > > >
              > > > Jack - N0NV
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > ------------------------------------
              > > >
              > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > >
              >
            • wz4cw@comcast.net
              As I recall, all the Bug parts on top of the Gold Plated Brass Plate (GPBP) act like nuts . Then the screws go into the Bug parts from the bottom of the
              Message 6 of 21 , Dec 3, 2008
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                As I recall, all the Bug parts on top of the Gold Plated Brass Plate (GPBP) act like "nuts".  Then the screws go into the Bug parts from the bottom of the base.  That's what holds the GPBP down.  I don't recall any glue  being necessary.
                73     Carl  WZ4CW,   SKCC 918,    FISTS 13491
                 
                 
              • David Ring
                Present day serial number Vibroplex aren t riveted, they re glued with Duco. That makes them much harder - if not impossible - to restore. Similarly, the red
                Message 7 of 21 , Dec 3, 2008
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                  Present day serial number Vibroplex aren't riveted, they're glued with Duco.  That makes them much harder - if not impossible - to restore.

                  Similarly, the "red decorative piece" that fits into the top of the yoke where the top trunnion screw usually goes (and still can go) is - in the new models - glued with Duco cement rather than being a small red plastic part with machined threads to fit the bore in the yoke as they used to be from 1949 to about 1990 when this part was introduced due to WW2 models having "operators misadjustment problems" caused by over tightening the top trunnion screw until the jewel cracked.

                  DO NOT glue the baseplate - you'll never remove it again if you do.

                  Also, send the plate out for replating - it will cost you more to strip, plate with copper, nickle and flash with heavy 24k gold than to buy a new one from Vibroplex, but the looks and the quality will be exceedingly better and it will last much much longer.  In other words, the last time - before gold went up in price - it would cost $60 to replate.  It might be $65 to $80 now with the increase in gold - but remember it's only a flash of gold - get the HEAVY plate on it.  Vibroplex does an inexpensive job in their effort to keep costs reasonable, but if you're restoring, you're going to spend the money anyway, so why not do it right.  The majority of the cost in gold plate is the preparation work - you have to strip, polish, plate copper, plate nickel, then gold plate.  So it is more than meets the usual person's understanding and thus they think they're being over charged, which they're usually not.  But shop around, if you know a person who does musical instruments, ask that person as that is the quality you want.  I can't overstate the prudence that doing the job with a good plater rather than buying a replacement will make to your finished product in both looks and in durability.

                  73
                  DR

                  David Ring, N1EA
                  -30-

                  On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 11:19 AM, <wz4cw@...> wrote:
                  As I recall, all the Bug parts on top of the Gold Plated Brass Plate (GPBP) act like "nuts".  Then the screws go into the Bug parts from the bottom of the base.  That's what holds the GPBP down.  I don't recall any glue  being necessary.
                  73     Carl  WZ4CW,   SKCC 918,    FISTS 13491
                   
                   

                • Jack B.
                  No Glue - understood! First I ll have to flatten out the front lip of the plate (it was caught and bent up a bit by a previous owner), then decide if it will
                  Message 8 of 21 , Dec 3, 2008
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                    No Glue - understood!

                    First I'll have to flatten out the front lip of the plate (it was
                    caught and bent up a bit by a previous owner), then decide if it will
                    look good enough to re-use.

                    You'll be happy to know that Vibroplex switched back to using riveted
                    serial number plates when W4OA took over the operation in the 1990's.
                    http://www.vibroplex.com/original_bug.html
                    I can verify this with new bugs that I've purchased in the last couple
                    years. Whether or not there's glue in addition to this, I don't know.

                    My new bugs also have convex shaped contacts for both dot and dash,
                    while my older bugs have flat contacts.

                    73,

                    Jack - N0NV




                    --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "David Ring" <n1ea@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Present day serial number Vibroplex aren't riveted, they're glued with
                    > Duco. That makes them much harder - if not impossible - to restore.
                    >
                    > Similarly, the "red decorative piece" that fits into the top of the yoke
                    > where the top trunnion screw usually goes (and still can go) is - in
                    the new
                    > models - glued with Duco cement rather than being a small red
                    plastic part
                    > with machined threads to fit the bore in the yoke as they used to be
                    from
                    > 1949 to about 1990 when this part was introduced due to WW2 models
                    having
                    > "operators misadjustment problems" caused by over tightening the top
                    > trunnion screw until the jewel cracked.
                    >
                    > DO NOT glue the baseplate - you'll never remove it again if you do.
                    >
                    > Also, send the plate out for replating - it will cost you more to strip,
                    > plate with copper, nickle and flash with heavy 24k gold than to buy
                    a new
                    > one from Vibroplex, but the looks and the quality will be
                    exceedingly better
                    > and it will last much much longer. In other words, the last time -
                    before
                    > gold went up in price - it would cost $60 to replate. It might be
                    $65 to
                    > $80 now with the increase in gold - but remember it's only a flash
                    of gold -
                    > get the HEAVY plate on it. Vibroplex does an inexpensive job in their
                    > effort to keep costs reasonable, but if you're restoring, you're
                    going to
                    > spend the money anyway, so why not do it right. The majority of the
                    cost in
                    > gold plate is the preparation work - you have to strip, polish, plate
                    > copper, plate nickel, then gold plate. So it is more than meets the
                    usual
                    > person's understanding and thus they think they're being over
                    charged, which
                    > they're usually not. But shop around, if you know a person who does
                    musical
                    > instruments, ask that person as that is the quality you want. I can't
                    > overstate the prudence that doing the job with a good plater rather than
                    > buying a replacement will make to your finished product in both
                    looks and in
                    > durability.
                    >
                    > 73
                    > DR
                    >
                    > David Ring, N1EA
                    > -30-
                    >
                    > On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 11:19 AM, <wz4cw@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > > As I recall, all the Bug parts on top of the Gold Plated Brass Plate
                    > > (GPBP) act like "nuts". Then the screws go into the Bug parts
                    from the
                    > > bottom of the base. That's what holds the GPBP down. I don't
                    recall any
                    > > glue being necessary.
                    > > 73 Carl WZ4CW, SKCC 918, FISTS 13491
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    >
                  • Pete Haddad
                    Hello All, I was just emailing a friend of mine, Bill, W4HEX and he has a response to this topic. I am attaching it below. We are both bug nuts, along with
                    Message 9 of 21 , Dec 3, 2008
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                      Hello All,

                      I was just emailing a friend of mine, Bill, W4HEX and he has a
                      response to this topic. I am attaching it below. We are both bug
                      nuts, along with Randy KB4QQJ, and Milt K4OSO and we try to be
                      followers of WR Smith W4PAL the Key Restoration King..hi hi..but seem
                      to come up with some help to one another on occassion.. anyway
                      enjoyed the conversation and here are Bill's comments...

                      Pete -

                      You might add to the discussion that there is a source for
                      replacement rivets if ever needed. I can machine these and currently
                      have a few in stock. Mine will have to be plated as desired.

                      - Bill

                      I dont think Bill W4HEX is a member of the group so here is his email
                      address ki4nov@... . yes this is correct it is his old
                      call....hi..

                      73

                      Pete W5PEH


                      --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
                      > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace
                      the
                      > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
                      > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the
                      top
                      > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to
                      drive
                      > them out.
                      >
                      > Thanks / 73
                      >
                      > Jack - N0NV
                      >
                    • David Ring
                      You re right - I just checked my BR2000 key - it has rivets! Bravo. And the contacts, double bravo! Things are getting better! 73 DR
                      Message 10 of 21 , Dec 3, 2008
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                        You're right - I just checked my BR2000 key - it has rivets!  Bravo.  And the contacts, double bravo!

                        Things are getting better!

                        73
                        DR

                        On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 2:56 PM, Jack B. <nzeronv@...> wrote:


                        No Glue - understood!

                        First I'll have to flatten out the front lip of the plate (it was
                        caught and bent up a bit by a previous owner), then decide if it will
                        look good enough to re-use.

                        You'll be happy to know that Vibroplex switched back to using riveted
                        serial number plates when W4OA took over the operation in the 1990's.
                        http://www.vibroplex.com/original_bug.html
                        I can verify this with new bugs that I've purchased in the last couple
                        years.  Whether or not there's glue in addition to this, I don't know.

                        My new bugs also have convex shaped contacts for both dot and dash,
                        while my older bugs have flat contacts.

                        73,

                        Jack - N0NV




                        --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "David Ring" <n1ea@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Present day serial number Vibroplex aren't riveted, they're glued with
                        > Duco.  That makes them much harder - if not impossible - to restore.
                        >
                        > Similarly, the "red decorative piece" that fits into the top of the yoke
                        > where the top trunnion screw usually goes (and still can go) is - in
                        the new
                        > models - glued with Duco cement rather than being a small red
                        plastic part
                        > with machined threads to fit the bore in the yoke as they used to be
                        from
                        > 1949 to about 1990 when this part was introduced due to WW2 models
                        having
                        > "operators misadjustment problems" caused by over tightening the top
                        > trunnion screw until the jewel cracked.
                        >
                        > DO NOT glue the baseplate - you'll never remove it again if you do.
                        >
                        > Also, send the plate out for replating - it will cost you more to strip,
                        > plate with copper, nickle and flash with heavy 24k gold than to buy
                        a new
                        > one from Vibroplex, but the looks and the quality will be
                        exceedingly better
                        > and it will last much much longer.  In other words, the last time -
                        before
                        > gold went up in price - it would cost $60 to replate.  It might be
                        $65 to
                        > $80 now with the increase in gold - but remember it's only a flash
                        of gold -
                        > get the HEAVY plate on it.  Vibroplex does an inexpensive job in their
                        > effort to keep costs reasonable, but if you're restoring, you're
                        going to
                        > spend the money anyway, so why not do it right.  The majority of the
                        cost in
                        > gold plate is the preparation work - you have to strip, polish, plate
                        > copper, plate nickel, then gold plate.  So it is more than meets the
                        usual
                        > person's understanding and thus they think they're being over
                        charged, which
                        > they're usually not.  But shop around, if you know a person who does
                        musical
                        > instruments, ask that person as that is the quality you want.  I can't
                        > overstate the prudence that doing the job with a good plater rather than
                        > buying a replacement will make to your finished product in both
                        looks and in
                        > durability.
                        >
                        > 73
                        > DR
                        >
                        > David Ring, N1EA
                        > -30-
                        >
                        > On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 11:19 AM, <wz4cw@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > >  As I recall, all the Bug parts on top of the Gold Plated Brass Plate
                        > > (GPBP) act like "nuts".  Then the screws go into the Bug parts
                        from the
                        > > bottom of the base.  That's what holds the GPBP down.  I don't
                        recall any
                        > > glue  being necessary.
                        > > 73     Carl  WZ4CW,   SKCC 918,    FISTS 13491
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        >



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                      • Jack B.
                        I was able to borrow a pin punch, which worked very well indeed. After inspecting the gold-plated plate, I decided to buy a new one from Vibroplex because the
                        Message 11 of 21 , Dec 8, 2008
                        • 0 Attachment
                          I was able to borrow a pin punch, which worked very well indeed.
                          After inspecting the gold-plated plate, I decided to buy a new one
                          from Vibroplex because the original was too bent up at the front.
                          Also, I like to patronize the factory when it's practical to do so.

                          I'll have to make sure I have a punch that won't slip off the rivets
                          as I re-install things later. I want this to be a curse-free job.

                          When I'm done, this will be my best bug -- functionally and
                          cosmetically. A nice Christmas gift from me to me.

                          73,

                          Jack - N0NV



                          --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
                          > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
                          > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
                          > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
                          > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
                          > them out.
                          >
                          > Thanks / 73
                          >
                          > Jack - N0NV
                          >
                        • Ron Johnson
                          Best of luck Jack. Have a drink AFTER you ve done it. 73 Ron g3xov ... From: Jack B. Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Vibroplex Rivets To:
                          Message 12 of 21 , Dec 8, 2008
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Best of luck Jack. Have a drink AFTER you've done it.
                            73 Ron g3xov


                            --- On Mon, 8/12/08, Jack B. <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                            From: Jack B. <nzeronv@...>
                            Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Vibroplex Rivets
                            To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com
                            Date: Monday, 8 December, 2008, 6:29 PM


                            I was able to borrow a pin punch, which worked very well indeed.
                            After inspecting the gold-plated plate, I decided to buy a new one
                            from Vibroplex because the original was too bent up at the front.
                            Also, I like to patronize the factory when it's practical to do so.

                            I'll have to make sure I have a punch that won't slip off the rivets
                            as I re-install things later. I want this to be a curse-free job.

                            When I'm done, this will be my best bug -- functionally and
                            cosmetically. A nice Christmas gift from me to me.

                            73,

                            Jack - N0NV

                            --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups .com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@... > wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
                            > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
                            > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
                            > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
                            > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
                            > them out.
                            >
                            > Thanks / 73
                            >
                            > Jack - N0NV
                            >

                          • Jack B.
                            Rest assured, only the bug will be having a punch and getting hammered (.... ..) Jack - N0NV
                            Message 13 of 21 , Dec 8, 2008
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Rest assured, only the bug will be 'having a punch' and 'getting
                              hammered' (.... ..)

                              Jack - N0NV



                              --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, Ron Johnson <ron538@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > Best of luck Jack. Have a drink AFTER you've done it.
                              > 73 Ron g3xov
                              >
                              >
                              > --- On Mon, 8/12/08, Jack B. <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > From: Jack B. <nzeronv@...>
                              > Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Vibroplex Rivets
                              > To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com
                              > Date: Monday, 8 December, 2008, 6:29 PM
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > I was able to borrow a pin punch, which worked very well indeed.
                              > After inspecting the gold-plated plate, I decided to buy a new one
                              > from Vibroplex because the original was too bent up at the front.
                              > Also, I like to patronize the factory when it's practical to do so.
                              >
                              > I'll have to make sure I have a punch that won't slip off the rivets
                              > as I re-install things later. I want this to be a curse-free job.
                              >
                              > When I'm done, this will be my best bug -- functionally and
                              > cosmetically. A nice Christmas gift from me to me.
                              >
                              > 73,
                              >
                              > Jack - N0NV
                              >
                              > --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups .com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@ > wrote:
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
                              > > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
                              > > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
                              > > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
                              > > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
                              > > them out.
                              > >
                              > > Thanks / 73
                              > >
                              > > Jack - N0NV
                              > >
                              >
                            • Richard Meiss
                              Hi, Jack - To protect against slips , get a flat piece of metal or plexiglass plastic and drill a hole through it just the diameter of the rivet s head. Put
                              Message 14 of 21 , Dec 8, 2008
                              • 0 Attachment
                                Hi, Jack -

                                     To protect against "slips", get a flat piece of metal or plexiglass plastic and drill a hole through it just the diameter of the rivet's head.  Put the rivet through this and start it into the hole, then use the pin punch.  The drilled hole will prevent the punch from slipping off.  Then have the drink.

                                     73 de Rich, WB9LPU



                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: "Jack B."
                                Sent: Dec 8, 2008 4:59 PM
                                To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Vibroplex Rivets


                                Rest assured, only the bug will be 'having a punch' and 'getting
                                hammered' (.... ..)

                                Jack - N0NV

                                --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups .com, Ron Johnson <ron538@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > Best of luck Jack. Have a drink AFTER you've done it.
                                > 73 Ron g3xov
                                >
                                >
                                > --- On Mon, 8/12/08, Jack B. <nzeronv@... > wrote:
                                >
                                > From: Jack B. <nzeronv@... >
                                > Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Vibroplex Rivets
                                > To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups .com
                                > Date: Monday, 8 December, 2008, 6:29 PM
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > I was able to borrow a pin punch, which worked very well indeed.
                                > After inspecting the gold-plated plate, I decided to buy a new one
                                > from Vibroplex because the original was too bent up at the front.
                                > Also, I like to patronize the factory when it's practical to do so.
                                >
                                > I'll have to make sure I have a punch that won't slip off the rivets
                                > as I re-install things later. I want this to be a curse-free job.
                                >
                                > When I'm done, this will be my best bug -- functionally and
                                > cosmetically. A nice Christmas gift from me to me.
                                >
                                > 73,
                                >
                                > Jack - N0NV
                                >
                                > --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups .com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@ > wrote:
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
                                > > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
                                > > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
                                > > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
                                > > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
                                > > them out.
                                > >
                                > > Thanks / 73
                                > >
                                > > Jack - N0NV
                                > >
                                >

                              • Jack B.
                                I called Vibroplex and I was told they are in the process of changing the vendor who does their chrome and gold plating, so they can t provide a finished gold
                                Message 15 of 21 , Dec 9, 2008
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  I called Vibroplex and I was told they are in the process of changing
                                  the vendor who does their chrome and gold plating, so they can't
                                  provide a finished gold plate for the Presentation any time soon. No
                                  word as to the reason for changing platers, but I hope they find a
                                  good one.

                                  Looks like I'll have to straighten out the old brass and use a local
                                  plater after all.

                                  Jack - N0NV



                                  --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > I was able to borrow a pin punch, which worked very well indeed.
                                  > After inspecting the gold-plated plate, I decided to buy a new one
                                  > from Vibroplex because the original was too bent up at the front.
                                  > Also, I like to patronize the factory when it's practical to do so.
                                  >
                                  > I'll have to make sure I have a punch that won't slip off the rivets
                                  > as I re-install things later. I want this to be a curse-free job.
                                  >
                                  > When I'm done, this will be my best bug -- functionally and
                                  > cosmetically. A nice Christmas gift from me to me.
                                  >
                                  > 73,
                                  >
                                  > Jack - N0NV
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@> wrote:
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
                                  > > Presentation bug. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
                                  > > rivets which hold down the ID plate? Is it simply a matter of
                                  > > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
                                  > > afterward? If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
                                  > > them out.
                                  > >
                                  > > Thanks / 73
                                  > >
                                  > > Jack - N0NV
                                  > >
                                  >
                                • David Ring
                                  If you don t want to do this, contact Vibroplex and ask them to sell you an unplated brass overlay used on the Presentation model of the Vibroplex Original
                                  Message 16 of 21 , Dec 9, 2008
                                  • 0 Attachment

                                    If you don't want to do this, contact Vibroplex and ask them to sell you an unplated brass overlay used on the Presentation model of the Vibroplex Original bug, it will fit both the current gold topped Original model and the previous Presentation model.

                                    73

                                    David N1EA

                                    -30-


                                    On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 10:14 AM, Jack B. <nzeronv@...> wrote:

                                    I called Vibroplex and I was told they are in the process of changing
                                    the vendor who does their chrome and gold plating, so they can't
                                    provide a finished gold plate for the Presentation any time soon. No
                                    word as to the reason for changing platers, but I hope they find a
                                    good one.

                                    Looks like I'll have to straighten out the old brass and use a local
                                    plater after all.

                                    Jack - N0NV



                                    --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > I was able to borrow a pin punch, which worked very well indeed.
                                    > After inspecting the gold-plated plate, I decided to buy a new one
                                    > from Vibroplex because the original was too bent up at the front.
                                    > Also, I like to patronize the factory when it's practical to do so.
                                    >
                                    > I'll have to make sure I have a punch that won't slip off the rivets
                                    > as I re-install things later.  I want this to be a curse-free job.
                                    >
                                    > When I'm done, this will be my best bug -- functionally and
                                    > cosmetically.  A nice Christmas gift from me to me.
                                    >
                                    > 73,
                                    >
                                    > Jack - N0NV
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > I'd like to replace the gold-plated brass plate on a Vibroplex
                                    > > Presentation bug.  My question is, how difficult is it to replace the
                                    > > rivets which hold down the ID plate?  Is it simply a matter of
                                    > > punching them out from the bottom, then hammering them in from the top
                                    > > afterward?  If that's the case, I'll need a very narrow punch to drive
                                    > > them out.
                                    > >
                                    > > Thanks / 73
                                    > >
                                    > > Jack - N0NV
                                    > >
                                    >



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                                  • Earl Needham
                                    ... I suspect they didn t get the results they wanted from the old plater. Remember, they had NUMEROUS seconds for poor plating, pitting, etc., during the
                                    Message 17 of 21 , Dec 11, 2008
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      Jack B. wrote:
                                      > I called Vibroplex and I was told they are in the process of changing
                                      > the vendor who does their chrome and gold plating, so they can't
                                      > provide a finished gold plate for the Presentation any time soon. No
                                      > word as to the reason for changing platers, but I hope they find a
                                      > good one.
                                      >
                                      I suspect they didn't get the results they wanted from the old plater. Remember, they had NUMEROUS "seconds" for poor plating, pitting, etc., during the past couple of years.

                                      7 3
                                      Earl

                                      --
                                      KD5XB -- Earl Needham
                                      Clovis, New Mexico DM84jk
                                      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cw_bugs
                                      Quoting from the Coast Guard: ZUT
                                    • ve7bgp
                                      Hello All on this Thread In September I got a old 54 Blue Racer that was in really nice shape except the Paint was peeling off it it was not primed properly
                                      Message 18 of 21 , Dec 11, 2008
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        Hello All on this Thread
                                        In September I got a old '54 Blue Racer that was in really nice shape
                                        except the Paint was peeling off it it was not primed properly in the
                                        Factory. I wanted to refinish the base of that bug. The Rivets on the
                                        plate was my worst worry about doing that job. The Rivets punched out
                                        nicely with a little hand punch my Dad made out of an old Choke Cable
                                        from a wrecked car. I got the base nicely refinished in Tremclad Gray
                                        Hammertone and let it set a couple of days. The first part to put on
                                        the Bug when you are reassembling it is the label. I lined the label
                                        and started the pins with a Fine Needle nosed Pliers. I used the
                                        Plastic Handle of a medium sized screwdriver to gently drive in the
                                        rivets. They are easy to put in and do not need much force at all. I
                                        hope that helps.
                                        73
                                        Gerry VE7BGP
                                      • Jack B.
                                        My new gold-plated brass plate has been plated with electroless nickel plate, .0003 min thick, followed by bright hard gold plate, .000010 thick . I don t
                                        Message 19 of 21 , Dec 23, 2008
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          My new gold-plated brass plate has been plated with "electroless
                                          nickel plate, .0003 min thick, followed by bright hard gold plate,
                                          .000010 thick". I don't know how much better this is than the plating
                                          originally put on by Vibroplex, but it sure looks great! I
                                          re-inserted the rivet pins using the inverted screwdriver technique
                                          mentioned by Gerry.

                                          There were some hardships regarding the plate, which I have posted on
                                          my web site:

                                          http://members.tcq.net/nzeronv/presentation_bug_227915_gpbp.pdf

                                          Thanks for all the helpful advice from everyone.

                                          73,

                                          Jack - N0NV
                                        • Jack B.
                                          P.S. I think I ll have that drink now. .... .. -Jack-
                                          Message 20 of 21 , Dec 23, 2008
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            P.S. I think I'll have that drink now.
                                            .... ..

                                            -Jack-


                                            --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                                            >
                                            >
                                            >
                                            > My new gold-plated brass plate has been plated with "electroless
                                            > nickel plate, .0003 min thick, followed by bright hard gold plate,
                                            > .000010 thick". I don't know how much better this is than the plating
                                            > originally put on by Vibroplex, but it sure looks great! I
                                            > re-inserted the rivet pins using the inverted screwdriver technique
                                            > mentioned by Gerry.
                                            >
                                            > There were some hardships regarding the plate, which I have posted on
                                            > my web site:
                                            >
                                            > http://members.tcq.net/nzeronv/presentation_bug_227915_gpbp.pdf
                                            >
                                            > Thanks for all the helpful advice from everyone.
                                            >
                                            > 73,
                                            >
                                            > Jack - N0NV
                                            >
                                          • Ron Johnson
                                            Well done Jack. A shame it s not full size but it looks good. Yes, go and get that drink and have a great Christmas. Regards, Ron g3xov ... From: Jack B.
                                            Message 21 of 21 , Dec 23, 2008
                                            • 0 Attachment
                                              Well done Jack. A shame it's not full size but it looks good.
                                              Yes, go and get that drink and have a great Christmas.
                                              Regards, Ron g3xov


                                              --- On Tue, 23/12/08, Jack B. <nzeronv@...> wrote:
                                              From: Jack B. <nzeronv@...>
                                              Subject: [cw_bugs] Re: Vibroplex Rivets - Replacing the Presentation Plate
                                              To: cw_bugs@yahoogroups.com
                                              Date: Tuesday, 23 December, 2008, 11:27 PM



                                              P.S. I think I'll have that drink now.
                                              .... ..

                                              -Jack-

                                              --- In cw_bugs@yahoogroups .com, "Jack B." <nzeronv@... > wrote:
                                              >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > My new gold-plated brass plate has been plated with "electroless
                                              > nickel plate, .0003 min thick, followed by bright hard gold plate,
                                              > .000010 thick". I don't know how much better this is than the plating
                                              > originally put on by Vibroplex, but it sure looks great! I
                                              > re-inserted the rivet pins using the inverted screwdriver technique
                                              > mentioned by Gerry.
                                              >
                                              > There were some hardships regarding the plate, which I have posted on
                                              > my web site:
                                              >
                                              > http://members. tcq.net/nzeronv/ presentation_ bug_227915_ gpbp.pdf
                                              >
                                              > Thanks for all the helpful advice from everyone.
                                              >
                                              > 73,
                                              >
                                              > Jack - N0NV
                                              >

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