1796Re: [cw_bugs] Blue Racer update
- Jun 27, 2012I find a conflict in your statement, Fred.
Here is the definition of burnish, burnishing.
Definition of BURNISH
1: a: to make shiny or lustrous especially by rubbing b : polish
2: to rub (a material) with a tool for compacting or smoothing or for turning an edge
— bur·nish·er noun
— bur·nish·ing adjective or noun
Verb: Polish (something, esp. metal) by rubbing: "burnished armor".
Noun: The shine on a highly polished surface.
Synonyms: verb. polish - furbish - buff - gloss - glaze
noun. polish - sheen - gloss - lustre – luster
Burnishing is the plastic deformation of a surface due to sliding contact with another object. Visually, burnishing smears the texture of a rough surface and makes it shinier.
Burnishing may occur on any sliding surface if the contact stress locally exceeds the yield strength of the material.
Proper burnishing IS polishing.There are a couple of inherit problems out there. Not all so called burnishing tools are that. A proper burnishing tool is
a metal blade that is covered with a fine (flour) diamond surface. It is for the purpose of polish a surface, no filing it. It can be used in different ways.
A burnishing tool can be used to polish an arbour/pivot and if done correctly it will harden the surface in the process. That can or cannot be desired,
depending on the application of the pivot.
All so called burnishing tools are not that, but a instead are a piece of metal that has been knurled, i.e. more like a file. Not as good as a true burnishing
tool. Also, the proper application of a burnishing tool is not. As defined, it is to polish and the pressure is ever so light. A properly burnished surface is
A proper burnishing tool could be assigned a grit number of 2000 or higher.
Burnishing moves the material about, not removing it. If you are reshaping the contact, giving it a dome, it takes a lot of working with burnishing, because
if you go too fast, the surface is hardened and the moving of metal will stop.
I suspect your experience with burnishing may have involved poor or pseudo burnishing tools. When I place a burnishing tool on or between contacts,
the pressure is not high. It should remove soft, relatively, crud as it polished the contacts metal surface. I clean my burnishing tools with alcohol before
and after each use so i am not depositing crud I may have picked up from another contact or my finger even.
Sorry to disagree, only in part, Fred.
On 6/27/2012 4:16 PM, cloud runner wrote:
Contacts should be polished, not burnished with a vibroplex tool. Polish them on a polishing wheel, make them mirror shiny and both convex. This will most reduce the problem itself.
-- 161, Joe, Ronnie(Rowena), Marty & Sidney Pontek P.O. Box 280, Dangriga, Stann Creek District (Hopkins Village) Belize 011-501-503-7346 Belize 011-501-666-3564 Belize (cellular) or 5204 Texas Highway 49 W Omaha, TX 75571-6474 U.S.A. 903-424-4267 (My cellular when in Texas) Also, K8JP, member FOC1743,CWops876,QCWA-LM21894,OOTC4607,A1OP,SKCC3171T,NAQCC5798,FISTS7625CC951,FP-2819 LotW Skype: v31joepalooka http://www.justanswer.com/lp-1eh8-tool-repair I am looking for Vibroplex Model X, Double lever, Zephyr, Lionel J-36 and prefer basket cases to restore.
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