1795Re: [cw_bugs] Re: Blue Racer update N1EA Tips and Pointers
- Jun 27, 2012This cures split dits, which is different from sratchy dits which I spoke to a moment ago.A dit spring that is weak will produce split dits, and dit bounce. McElroy had a dit tensioner on some of his bugs to load the spring. Another way to do it, is to stick a small piece of foam in the curvature of the dit spring.But understand, that will fix split dits and contact bounce, while the capcitor across the bug or keying a relay will cure contact scratchiness.Dave, N1EA, is "the man" ;-)fd - kt5x----- Original Message -----From: k4osoSent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 1:42 PMSubject: [cw_bugs] Re: Blue Racer update N1EA Tips and Pointers
I consider myself a bug man but...I've never had to operate one when it HAD to be done! Some of the best advice I've received on bug operating has come from David, N1EA. The piece of advice he gave me that cured my "scratch" dots was to add tension to the dot spring. Sounds so simple.....yet great results.
We have a great resource in this "old timer" and my advice is, despite what your instincts tell you, TRY HIS ADVICE FIRST. It could vastly improve your "wheel invention" average. :-) Take it from one who took a while to get it.
If you can swing it, get on the air with David and you will be surprised how quickly he can diagnose your bug's issues and prescribe a cure.
73, Milt k4oso
--- In email@example.com, Chuck Chandler <chandlerusm@...> wrote:
> Well, I had a chance this morning to try out a few things. In no
> particular order these are my notes on suggestions from the list - I
> apologize if I overlooked something, but I think I've got them all.
> 1. The dot spring (metal u-shaped leaf spring) appears to be roughly the
> same stiffness as my two others. It's much newer, maybe it's a tad stiffer.
> 2. I have the Vibroplex burnishing strip, and have gone over the contacts a
> few times recently to make sure nothing was dirty.
> 3. Yes, when it was sending scratchy dits it did require adjusting the dit
> stop screw.
> 4. I checked all base screws, they were tight.
> 5. The silver contacts on both sides of the dit connection feel solid.
> I made a few adjustments based on Dave, N1EA's document. I had it set up
> for a pretty wide spacing, which is not my preference but I was hesitant to
> tighten it down until it began to behave itself. So, I bit the bullet and
> adjusted it down for a small travel on the dits and dahs.
> Upon very close inspection it looked as though the pendulum arm was not
> always contacting the damper during sending. I had it set to just *BARELY*
> rest against the damper. I added a bit more resting force and now it looks
> like it reliably touches the damper.
> I also loosened the screw holding the donut-shaped mount for the dot
> spring. Based on the lack of a grounding braid, I wanted to make sure there
> wasn't any corrosion making a poor contact.
> After doing these 3 things, it is working much better. It will hold the
> settings, and perhaps only one dot in ten or fifteen is scratchy. It will
> make about 30 or so before coming to rest fully closed, and it comes to
> rest fully closed at both the slowest weight setting and the fastest. I
> have it set for a somewhat heavy dot at the slowest speed, and it's OK at
> the highest, though a tad light.
> I re-read the posts and realize I forgot to look at the Dot tension spring
> - I never paid much attention to it on the others, but now I see on this
> new Blue Racer it is part of the electrical path. I'm going to go over
> that carefully tonight.
> Thanks to all for the guidance - it has been a great help!
> 73 de Chuck, WS1L
> Chuck Chandler
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