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Re: [cosmacelf] A Christmas ELF (Lee Hart's Membership Card)

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  • Dave Ruske
    ... Here s a free-running, slow counter in 10 bytes: EF 80 BF AF 9E 5F 1E 64 30 01 Can it be done in 9? I m assuming more than 256 bytes... Dave [Non-text
    Message 1 of 6 , Dec 29, 2010
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      On Dec 29, 2010, at 1:57 PM, Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
      > Neat. Now we have to write some simple little programs to show it off.
      >
      Here's a free-running, slow counter in 10 bytes:
      EF 80 BF AF 9E 5F 1E 64 30 01

      Can it be done in 9? I'm assuming more than 256 bytes...

      Dave

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Bill Rowe(Rogers email)
      I’m planning on the membership card as a winter vacation pastime so I got around to verifying the parts list before packing it. WOW, what a nice piece of
      Message 2 of 6 , Feb 2, 2011
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        I’m planning on the membership card as a winter vacation pastime so I got around to verifying the parts list before packing it.

        WOW, what a nice piece of work. I can only imagine how much work went into this lee but I certainly appreciate it.

        From: Lee Hart
        Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 2:57 PM
        To: cosmacelf@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [cosmacelf] A Christmas ELF (Lee Hart's Membership Card)


        On 12/28/2010 7:50 PM, Dave Ruske wrote:
        > Well, Christmas finally gave me the chance to assemble one of Lee
        > Hart's membership cards (rev B), and I've got to say that it's a
        > nicely designed kit.

        Congratulations, Dave. You did it! :-)

        > The only sticky bits I ran into during construction were the
        > installation of P2 and P3. When building for a low profile and
        > soldering these two headers from the top, I think the job would be
        > easier if P2 was mounted before U3, and if P3 was mounted before U7.

        I've come up with a slightly better way to install these headers (J1,
        J2, P3, etc.) I pounded the pins into the plastic body so the plastic is
        all at one end (no pin sticking out). I put two 0.1" long pieces of
        plastic tubing over the pins at each end (the plastic insulation
        stripped from a piece of wire). Then insert the pins into the board from
        the soldered side.

        The plastic tubing holds the plastic body away from the board, so you
        can get to the pad to solder all the pins except the end ones. Then cut
        off the tubing, and solder the last two pins.

        > I've had the device under power now since Sunday with a pair of AA
        > batteries to retain memory, leaving the LEDs off when not in use, and
        > everything seems to work great. It's been quite some time since I
        > actually wrote raw 1802 code, and much longer since I used toggle
        > switches to enter a program, so this has been a fun little
        > diversion!

        Neat. Now we have to write some simple little programs to show it off.

        And, we have to get back to work on a program for the PC that can run
        the Membership Card via the parallel port.

        --
        Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
        814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
        Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
        leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen




        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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