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A Christmas ELF (Lee Hart's Membership Card)

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  • Dave Ruske
    Well, Christmas finally gave me the chance to assemble one of Lee Hart s membership cards (rev B), and I ve got to say that it s a nicely designed kit. I think
    Message 1 of 6 , Dec 28, 2010
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      Well, Christmas finally gave me the chance to assemble one of Lee Hart's membership cards (rev B), and I've got to say that it's a nicely designed kit. I think it's going to *just* fit in the Altoids tin, but I need to get a connector for the power supply and nibble out the right size hole for it before I'll be certain.

      The only sticky bits I ran into during construction were the installation of P2 and P3. When building for a low profile and soldering these two headers from the top, I think the job would be easier if P2 was mounted before U3, and if P3 was mounted before U7.

      I've had the device under power now since Sunday with a pair of AA batteries to retain memory, leaving the LEDs off when not in use, and everything seems to work great. It's been quite some time since I actually wrote raw 1802 code, and much longer since I used toggle switches to enter a program, so this has been a fun little diversion!

      Hope you all had a good Christmas and have a great 2011 ahead!

      Dave
    • thinkpast
      ... Dave, if you have more comments and notes about assembly and use of the Membership card kit, you are welcome to contact me and I ll add them to the
      Message 2 of 6 , Dec 29, 2010
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        --- In cosmacelf@yahoogroups.com, Dave Ruske <dave@...> wrote:
        >
        > Well, Christmas finally gave me the chance to assemble one of Lee Hart's membership cards (rev B), and I've got to say that it's a nicely designed kit. I think it's going to *just* fit in the Altoids tin, but I need to get a connector for the power supply and nibble out the right size hole for it before I'll be certain.
        >
        > The only sticky bits I ran into during construction were the installation of P2 and P3. When building for a low profile and soldering these two headers from the top, I think the job would be easier if P2 was mounted before U3, and if P3 was mounted before U7.
        >
        > I've had the device under power now since Sunday with a pair of AA batteries to retain memory, leaving the LEDs off when not in use, and everything seems to work great. It's been quite some time since I actually wrote raw 1802 code, and much longer since I used toggle switches to enter a program, so this has been a fun little diversion!
        >
        > Hope you all had a good Christmas and have a great 2011 ahead!
        >
        > Dave
        >

        Dave, if you have more comments and notes about assembly and use of the Membership card kit, you are welcome to contact me and I'll add them to the Membership Card Web page for the kit. Contact me at retrotechnology.com care of the Wb links at:

        http://www.retrotechnology.com/memship/mem_revB.html

        Of course the same applies to anyone who has assembled the Rev B kit.

        Herb Johnson
        retrotechnology.com
      • Lee Hart
        ... Congratulations, Dave. You did it! :-) ... I ve come up with a slightly better way to install these headers (J1, J2, P3, etc.) I pounded the pins into the
        Message 3 of 6 , Dec 29, 2010
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          On 12/28/2010 7:50 PM, Dave Ruske wrote:
          > Well, Christmas finally gave me the chance to assemble one of Lee
          > Hart's membership cards (rev B), and I've got to say that it's a
          > nicely designed kit.

          Congratulations, Dave. You did it! :-)

          > The only sticky bits I ran into during construction were the
          > installation of P2 and P3. When building for a low profile and
          > soldering these two headers from the top, I think the job would be
          > easier if P2 was mounted before U3, and if P3 was mounted before U7.

          I've come up with a slightly better way to install these headers (J1,
          J2, P3, etc.) I pounded the pins into the plastic body so the plastic is
          all at one end (no pin sticking out). I put two 0.1" long pieces of
          plastic tubing over the pins at each end (the plastic insulation
          stripped from a piece of wire). Then insert the pins into the board from
          the soldered side.

          The plastic tubing holds the plastic body away from the board, so you
          can get to the pad to solder all the pins except the end ones. Then cut
          off the tubing, and solder the last two pins.

          > I've had the device under power now since Sunday with a pair of AA
          > batteries to retain memory, leaving the LEDs off when not in use, and
          > everything seems to work great. It's been quite some time since I
          > actually wrote raw 1802 code, and much longer since I used toggle
          > switches to enter a program, so this has been a fun little
          > diversion!

          Neat. Now we have to write some simple little programs to show it off.

          And, we have to get back to work on a program for the PC that can run
          the Membership Card via the parallel port.

          --
          Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
          814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
          Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
          leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
        • Dave Ruske
          Will do, Herb. Your pages are a great resource for anyone building one of these kits. The errata about the jumper settings for 8K of RAM likely saved me a lot
          Message 4 of 6 , Dec 29, 2010
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            Will do, Herb. Your pages are a great resource for anyone building one of these kits. The errata about the jumper settings for 8K of RAM likely saved me a lot of head scratching.

            Dave

            On Dec 29, 2010, at 1:23 PM, "thinkpast" <hjohnson@...> wrote:

            > Dave, if you have more comments and notes about assembly and use of the Membership card kit, you are welcome to contact me and I'll add them to the Membership Card Web page for the kit.
          • Dave Ruske
            ... Here s a free-running, slow counter in 10 bytes: EF 80 BF AF 9E 5F 1E 64 30 01 Can it be done in 9? I m assuming more than 256 bytes... Dave [Non-text
            Message 5 of 6 , Dec 29, 2010
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              On Dec 29, 2010, at 1:57 PM, Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
              > Neat. Now we have to write some simple little programs to show it off.
              >
              Here's a free-running, slow counter in 10 bytes:
              EF 80 BF AF 9E 5F 1E 64 30 01

              Can it be done in 9? I'm assuming more than 256 bytes...

              Dave

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Bill Rowe(Rogers email)
              I’m planning on the membership card as a winter vacation pastime so I got around to verifying the parts list before packing it. WOW, what a nice piece of
              Message 6 of 6 , Feb 2, 2011
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                I’m planning on the membership card as a winter vacation pastime so I got around to verifying the parts list before packing it.

                WOW, what a nice piece of work. I can only imagine how much work went into this lee but I certainly appreciate it.

                From: Lee Hart
                Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 2:57 PM
                To: cosmacelf@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [cosmacelf] A Christmas ELF (Lee Hart's Membership Card)


                On 12/28/2010 7:50 PM, Dave Ruske wrote:
                > Well, Christmas finally gave me the chance to assemble one of Lee
                > Hart's membership cards (rev B), and I've got to say that it's a
                > nicely designed kit.

                Congratulations, Dave. You did it! :-)

                > The only sticky bits I ran into during construction were the
                > installation of P2 and P3. When building for a low profile and
                > soldering these two headers from the top, I think the job would be
                > easier if P2 was mounted before U3, and if P3 was mounted before U7.

                I've come up with a slightly better way to install these headers (J1,
                J2, P3, etc.) I pounded the pins into the plastic body so the plastic is
                all at one end (no pin sticking out). I put two 0.1" long pieces of
                plastic tubing over the pins at each end (the plastic insulation
                stripped from a piece of wire). Then insert the pins into the board from
                the soldered side.

                The plastic tubing holds the plastic body away from the board, so you
                can get to the pad to solder all the pins except the end ones. Then cut
                off the tubing, and solder the last two pins.

                > I've had the device under power now since Sunday with a pair of AA
                > batteries to retain memory, leaving the LEDs off when not in use, and
                > everything seems to work great. It's been quite some time since I
                > actually wrote raw 1802 code, and much longer since I used toggle
                > switches to enter a program, so this has been a fun little
                > diversion!

                Neat. Now we have to write some simple little programs to show it off.

                And, we have to get back to work on a program for the PC that can run
                the Membership Card via the parallel port.

                --
                Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
                814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
                Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
                leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen




                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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