RE: [corsicalista] Ajaccio
Not sure I agree. It grows on you. We have been visiting Ajaccio for a number of years now, also starting our Corsican adventures in Calvi. I suppose the answer to your question depends, in part on your budget. We always stay at Des Mouettes. It is a great hotel with its feet in the sea about twenty minute walk from the centre out on the Route Sanguinnaires. It has parking which is a big problem in Aj. We like to eat out at a restaurant that I think is called U Signore , Rue General Fiorella. It is in a side road set back from the main square. We have not found great eating places in the tourist areas.
We like the birthplace of Napoleon and the Fesch museum. The great thing about the city is that it is walkable. We usually find a parking place behind the Casone in which there is a huge statue of Napoleon looking down on Ajaccio. There are some interesting house/architecture walking down the Rue Grandval from there. Behind the Casone are a series of tracks known as the Bois des Anglais/Sentier des Cretes. You can get a bus down to the Iles Sanguinnaires and walk back along the cretes if you like that sort of thing, The buses are easy and seem to cost 1 euro wherever you go – timings, though, bear no relation to the timetables at the bus stops.
Also from the Iles there is a lovely easy walk going north along the coastal footpath to some great beaches.
Outside within short distance there are plenty of walks – the traffic in and out of Ajaccio is fairly horrendous at most times of day. Once you get to know the city, there are some easier ways round it using the roads to the north. The easiest in and out is via the ‘back’ road that leads to Cargese via the Col de San Bastiano – just above the little chapel situated on the col, there are some fascinating world war two remains.
There is also a back route to Napoleon’s family’s country home – Les Milleli – also worth a visit, although you can’t get in the house. The grounds are full of ancient olives and there is a nature trail around an arboretum consisting of some 100 trees that grow in Corsica – this has become a bit neglected over the years.
I have just given you a taster of what we like to do but if you let me know what you are interested in, I would be happy to go into some more detail or give you some more suggestions.
Ajaccio is wonderful like all of w coast of Corsica, but it is also to some extent spoiled, like so many provincial towns on the mainland, by mis-plannig and ribbon-development. Apart from the Napoleon heritage there is not so much to detain you here, I think.
On 27 June 2012 10:37, Jeff Steiner <jchampliaud@...> wrote:
> We will be driving from Calvi
> probably on the weekend for the Sunday marche. So all suggestions are
I really liked the Punta de la Parata. FWTW on my video for the market
in Ajaccio someone made some nasty comments about the market being a
total tourist rip off. Jeff
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