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Re: Amaizablaze 7100 Owners

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  • Crafton Clift
    Woody, It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to accumulate. How do you have the intake air configured? Is a damper used to ratio the intake air? Have
    Message 1 of 8 , Apr 19 10:08 PM
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      Woody, It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to accumulate.
      How do you have the intake air configured? Is a damper used to ratio
      the intake air? Have you measured the exhaust temp and also the room
      inlet air temp? What is the room RH relative humidity and how does it
      vary with room temp? Get the local dealer to heip you. The rust
      problem will continue unless the root cause is determined.


      --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, Daniel Wood <woody19582002@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Myself and the three other parties who have contacted me all use
      inside air for combustion.
      > My secondary and a friends are being returned next week for
      warranty replacement. His rusted out in one season. Afriend up north
      is going through an attorney to get her money refunded.
      > P.S. The same message was posted on another website, I received 5
      responses.
      > Take Care
      >
      > Cornstoves <haclift@...> wrote:
      > Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First
      off use room
      > combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency will
      > improve. Room air is not cold enough to condense moisture in the
      > exhaust manifold and corrode the contents. At least install a water
      > drain on the exhaust manifold if you persist for some unknown
      reason to
      > bring super cold outside air into the combustion chamber to kill
      the
      > flames. The room combustion air concept sucks contaminated room air
      > into the combustion chamber, burns it, and sends bad room air stuff
      > outside. Room air will gradually become clean air rather than
      > accumulation of house cleaning chemicals, insulation and carpet
      > outgasses. Cigarette smoke, airborne dog smell, and cooking odors
      are
      > exhausted for free. In Minnesota, Michigan and Ohio, the Cold
      outside
      > air is below dew point of the corn stove exhaust. Water condenses
      > inside the exhaust manifold, collects, and should be periodically
      > removed. Install a manual ball valve drain for convenient routine
      > drain. Excessive water collection in the exhaust manifold WILL
      > intefere with proper combustion air flow and reduce corn stove
      > efficiency. Water condensation is not a concern in warm climates
      (Ky,
      > Tn, Ms, Mo, Ok, Va, WVa, NC, SC, Al, Ga). If inside room air is
      used
      > for combustion air the exhaust manifold will remain well above
      exhaust
      > dew point. Any periodic vapours, gasses, or liquids passing through
      the
      > exhaust will evaporate and exhaust rather than collect.
      Unfortunately,
      > carbon particulate will continue to collect.
      > Install a large 2" ball valve out the bottom of the manifold for
      the
      > liquid drain. With a 2" ball valve full open, a vacuum cleaner tube
      > can be used to easily remove solid carbon particulate from the
      exhaust
      > manifold. The increased combustion air flow will decrease the
      > accumulation rate of carbon particulate.
      >
      > --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, "woody19582002" <woody19582002@>
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > Is anyone out there having rust thru on their secondary heat
      > exchangers?
      > > I have had to patch my tubes once and the bottom of the chamber
      twice
      > > in 2 years. I have sand blasted and used high heat paint on the
      tubes
      > > but it burns off in a couple of weeks. Any info would be much
      > > appreciated.
      > > Thanks from Michigan
      > >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > ---------------------------------
      > Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
      > Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
      >
    • Cornstoves
      Crafton wrote: It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to accumulate. To elaborate further,only on a rainy day is RH near 100%. In a room at 100% RH,
      Message 2 of 8 , Apr 20 7:37 PM
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        Crafton wrote: It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to
        accumulate. To elaborate further,only on a rainy day is RH near
        100%. In a room at 100% RH, water will condense on any surface below
        room temp. Water will also evaporate from a surface or container at a
        temperature higher than room temperature. To thoroughly analize how
        water could accumulate in the exhaust manifold, can you provide: room
        air RH & temp, inlet comb air RH & temp, exhaust pipe temp
        We need to know how the surface temperature of the hot exhaust could
        fall below dew point. If you are boiling water to increase the RH,
        the savings are counterproductive because water takes more energy to
        heat than does air. Expensive is the Energy lost by leakage of moist
        100% RH room air to the outside. Leakage or loss of dry 50% RH room
        air to the outside is low cost. See www.msnusers.com/cornstoves for a
        thorough analysis of heat loss due to dew point.




        > How do you have the intake air configured? Is a damper used to
        ratio
        > the intake air? Have you measured the exhaust temp and also the
        room
        > inlet air temp? What is the room RH relative humidity and how does
        it
        > vary with room temp? Get the local dealer to heip you. The rust
        > problem will continue unless the root cause is determined.
        >
        >
        > --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, Daniel Wood <woody19582002@>
        > wrote:
        > >
        > > Myself and the three other parties who have contacted me all use
        > inside air for combustion.
        > > My secondary and a friends are being returned next week for
        > warranty replacement. His rusted out in one season. Afriend up
        north
        > is going through an attorney to get her money refunded.
        > > P.S. The same message was posted on another website, I received
        5
        > responses.
        > > Take Care
        > >
        > > Cornstoves <haclift@> wrote:
        > > Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First
        > off use room
        > > combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency
        will
        > > improve. Room air is not cold enough to condense moisture in the
        > > exhaust manifold and corrode the contents. At least install a
        water
        > > drain on the exhaust manifold if you persist for some unknown
        > reason to
        > > bring super cold outside air into the combustion chamber to kill
        > the
        > > flames. The room combustion air concept sucks contaminated room
        air
        > > into the combustion chamber, burns it, and sends bad room air
        stuff
        > > outside. Room air will gradually become clean air rather than
        > > accumulation of house cleaning chemicals, insulation and carpet
        > > outgasses. Cigarette smoke, airborne dog smell, and cooking odors
        > are
        > > exhausted for free. In Minnesota, Michigan and Ohio, the Cold
        > outside
        > > air is below dew point of the corn stove exhaust. Water condenses
        > > inside the exhaust manifold, collects, and should be periodically
        > > removed. Install a manual ball valve drain for convenient routine
        > > drain. Excessive water collection in the exhaust manifold WILL
        > > intefere with proper combustion air flow and reduce corn stove
        > > efficiency. Water condensation is not a concern in warm climates
        > (Ky,
        > > Tn, Ms, Mo, Ok, Va, WVa, NC, SC, Al, Ga). If inside room air is
        > used
        > > for combustion air the exhaust manifold will remain well above
        > exhaust
        > > dew point. Any periodic vapours, gasses, or liquids passing
        through
        > the
        > > exhaust will evaporate and exhaust rather than collect.
        > Unfortunately,
        > > carbon particulate will continue to collect.
        > > Install a large 2" ball valve out the bottom of the manifold for
        > the
        > > liquid drain. With a 2" ball valve full open, a vacuum cleaner
        tube
        > > can be used to easily remove solid carbon particulate from the
        > exhaust
        > > manifold. The increased combustion air flow will decrease the
        > > accumulation rate of carbon particulate.
        > >
        > > --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, "woody19582002"
        <woody19582002@>
        > > wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Is anyone out there having rust thru on their secondary heat
        > > exchangers?
        > > > I have had to patch my tubes once and the bottom of the chamber
        > twice
        > > > in 2 years. I have sand blasted and used high heat paint on the
        > tubes
        > > > but it burns off in a couple of weeks. Any info would be much
        > > > appreciated.
        > > > Thanks from Michigan
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ---------------------------------
        > > Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
        > > Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
        > >
        >
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