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  • Cornstoves
    Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First off use room combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency will improve. Room air is not
    Message 1 of 8 , Apr 19 1:08 PM
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      Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First off use room
      combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency will
      improve. Room air is not cold enough to condense moisture in the
      exhaust manifold and corrode the contents. At least install a water
      drain on the exhaust manifold if you persist for some unknown reason to
      bring super cold outside air into the combustion chamber to kill the
      flames. The room combustion air concept sucks contaminated room air
      into the combustion chamber, burns it, and sends bad room air stuff
      outside. Room air will gradually become clean air rather than
      accumulation of house cleaning chemicals, insulation and carpet
      outgasses. Cigarette smoke, airborne dog smell, and cooking odors are
      exhausted for free. In Minnesota, Michigan and Ohio, the Cold outside
      air is below dew point of the corn stove exhaust. Water condenses
      inside the exhaust manifold, collects, and should be periodically
      removed. Install a manual ball valve drain for convenient routine
      drain. Excessive water collection in the exhaust manifold WILL
      intefere with proper combustion air flow and reduce corn stove
      efficiency. Water condensation is not a concern in warm climates (Ky,
      Tn, Ms, Mo, Ok, Va, WVa, NC, SC, Al, Ga). If inside room air is used
      for combustion air the exhaust manifold will remain well above exhaust
      dew point. Any periodic vapours, gasses, or liquids passing through the
      exhaust will evaporate and exhaust rather than collect. Unfortunately,
      carbon particulate will continue to collect.
      Install a large 2" ball valve out the bottom of the manifold for the
      liquid drain. With a 2" ball valve full open, a vacuum cleaner tube
      can be used to easily remove solid carbon particulate from the exhaust
      manifold. The increased combustion air flow will decrease the
      accumulation rate of carbon particulate.



      --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, "woody19582002" <woody19582002@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Is anyone out there having rust thru on their secondary heat
      exchangers?
      > I have had to patch my tubes once and the bottom of the chamber twice
      > in 2 years. I have sand blasted and used high heat paint on the tubes
      > but it burns off in a couple of weeks. Any info would be much
      > appreciated.
      > Thanks from Michigan
      >
    • Daniel Wood
      Myself and the three other parties who have contacted me all use inside air for combustion. My secondary and a friends are being returned next week for
      Message 2 of 8 , Apr 19 7:15 PM
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        Myself and the three other parties who have contacted me all use inside air for combustion.
        My secondary and a friends are being returned next week for warranty replacement. His rusted out in one season. Afriend up north is going through an attorney to get her money refunded.
        P.S. The same message was posted on another website, I received 5 responses.
        Take Care

        Cornstoves <haclift@...> wrote:
        Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First off use room
        combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency will
        improve. Room air is not cold enough to condense moisture in the
        exhaust manifold and corrode the contents. At least install a water
        drain on the exhaust manifold if you persist for some unknown reason to
        bring super cold outside air into the combustion chamber to kill the
        flames. The room combustion air concept sucks contaminated room air
        into the combustion chamber, burns it, and sends bad room air stuff
        outside. Room air will gradually become clean air rather than
        accumulation of house cleaning chemicals, insulation and carpet
        outgasses. Cigarette smoke, airborne dog smell, and cooking odors are
        exhausted for free. In Minnesota, Michigan and Ohio, the Cold outside
        air is below dew point of the corn stove exhaust. Water condenses
        inside the exhaust manifold, collects, and should be periodically
        removed. Install a manual ball valve drain for convenient routine
        drain. Excessive water collection in the exhaust manifold WILL
        intefere with proper combustion air flow and reduce corn stove
        efficiency. Water condensation is not a concern in warm climates (Ky,
        Tn, Ms, Mo, Ok, Va, WVa, NC, SC, Al, Ga). If inside room air is used
        for combustion air the exhaust manifold will remain well above exhaust
        dew point. Any periodic vapours, gasses, or liquids passing through the
        exhaust will evaporate and exhaust rather than collect. Unfortunately,
        carbon particulate will continue to collect.
        Install a large 2" ball valve out the bottom of the manifold for the
        liquid drain. With a 2" ball valve full open, a vacuum cleaner tube
        can be used to easily remove solid carbon particulate from the exhaust
        manifold. The increased combustion air flow will decrease the
        accumulation rate of carbon particulate.

        --- In cornplace@yahoogrou ps.com, "woody19582002" <woody19582002@ ...>
        wrote:
        >
        > Is anyone out there having rust thru on their secondary heat
        exchangers?
        > I have had to patch my tubes once and the bottom of the chamber twice
        > in 2 years. I have sand blasted and used high heat paint on the tubes
        > but it burns off in a couple of weeks. Any info would be much
        > appreciated.
        > Thanks from Michigan
        >



        Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
        Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.

      • Crafton Clift
        Woody, It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to accumulate. How do you have the intake air configured? Is a damper used to ratio the intake air? Have
        Message 3 of 8 , Apr 19 10:08 PM
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          Woody, It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to accumulate.
          How do you have the intake air configured? Is a damper used to ratio
          the intake air? Have you measured the exhaust temp and also the room
          inlet air temp? What is the room RH relative humidity and how does it
          vary with room temp? Get the local dealer to heip you. The rust
          problem will continue unless the root cause is determined.


          --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, Daniel Wood <woody19582002@...>
          wrote:
          >
          > Myself and the three other parties who have contacted me all use
          inside air for combustion.
          > My secondary and a friends are being returned next week for
          warranty replacement. His rusted out in one season. Afriend up north
          is going through an attorney to get her money refunded.
          > P.S. The same message was posted on another website, I received 5
          responses.
          > Take Care
          >
          > Cornstoves <haclift@...> wrote:
          > Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First
          off use room
          > combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency will
          > improve. Room air is not cold enough to condense moisture in the
          > exhaust manifold and corrode the contents. At least install a water
          > drain on the exhaust manifold if you persist for some unknown
          reason to
          > bring super cold outside air into the combustion chamber to kill
          the
          > flames. The room combustion air concept sucks contaminated room air
          > into the combustion chamber, burns it, and sends bad room air stuff
          > outside. Room air will gradually become clean air rather than
          > accumulation of house cleaning chemicals, insulation and carpet
          > outgasses. Cigarette smoke, airborne dog smell, and cooking odors
          are
          > exhausted for free. In Minnesota, Michigan and Ohio, the Cold
          outside
          > air is below dew point of the corn stove exhaust. Water condenses
          > inside the exhaust manifold, collects, and should be periodically
          > removed. Install a manual ball valve drain for convenient routine
          > drain. Excessive water collection in the exhaust manifold WILL
          > intefere with proper combustion air flow and reduce corn stove
          > efficiency. Water condensation is not a concern in warm climates
          (Ky,
          > Tn, Ms, Mo, Ok, Va, WVa, NC, SC, Al, Ga). If inside room air is
          used
          > for combustion air the exhaust manifold will remain well above
          exhaust
          > dew point. Any periodic vapours, gasses, or liquids passing through
          the
          > exhaust will evaporate and exhaust rather than collect.
          Unfortunately,
          > carbon particulate will continue to collect.
          > Install a large 2" ball valve out the bottom of the manifold for
          the
          > liquid drain. With a 2" ball valve full open, a vacuum cleaner tube
          > can be used to easily remove solid carbon particulate from the
          exhaust
          > manifold. The increased combustion air flow will decrease the
          > accumulation rate of carbon particulate.
          >
          > --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, "woody19582002" <woody19582002@>
          > wrote:
          > >
          > > Is anyone out there having rust thru on their secondary heat
          > exchangers?
          > > I have had to patch my tubes once and the bottom of the chamber
          twice
          > > in 2 years. I have sand blasted and used high heat paint on the
          tubes
          > > but it burns off in a couple of weeks. Any info would be much
          > > appreciated.
          > > Thanks from Michigan
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > ---------------------------------
          > Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
          > Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
          >
        • millennium1000
          Wow! Do you live near a battery factory? What s in the air over there, Woody? I had a wood worker friend that slipped a piece or two of wood in the burned
          Message 4 of 8 , Apr 19 10:18 PM
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            Wow! Do you live near a battery factory? What's in the air over
            there, Woody? I had a wood worker friend that slipped a piece or two
            of wood in the burned occassionally. You would believe the cresote
            accumulation in the exhaust box. That stuff can catch on if it gets
            thick enough. How do you clean the burner? Perhaps the cleaning
            fluid is corrosive to the tubes? Did you mention a sand blaster?
            Unless you use cenospheres, that sand could be blasting the tubes
            away. An incorrect air mixture will also cause trouble.
            Who's the dealer?


            --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, Daniel Wood <woody19582002@...>
            wrote:
            >
            > Myself and the three other parties who have contacted me all use
            inside air for combustion.
            > My secondary and a friends are being returned next week for
            warranty replacement. His rusted out in one season. Afriend up north
            is going through an attorney to get her money refunded.
            > P.S. The same message was posted on another website, I received 5
            responses.
            > Take Care
            >
            > Cornstoves <haclift@...> wrote:
            > Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First
            off use room
            > combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency will
            > improve. Room air is not cold enough to condense moisture in the
            > exhaust manifold and corrode the contents. At least install a water
            > drain on the exhaust manifold if you persist for some unknown
            reason to
            > bring super cold outside air into the combustion chamber to kill
            the
            > flames. The room combustion air concept sucks contaminated room air
            > into the combustion chamber, burns it, and sends bad room air stuff
            > outside. Room air will gradually become clean air rather than
            > accumulation of house cleaning chemicals, insulation and carpet
            > outgasses. Cigarette smoke, airborne dog smell, and cooking odors
            are
            > exhausted for free. In Minnesota, Michigan and Ohio, the Cold
            outside
            > air is below dew point of the corn stove exhaust. Water condenses
            > inside the exhaust manifold, collects, and should be periodically
            > removed. Install a manual ball valve drain for convenient routine
            > drain. Excessive water collection in the exhaust manifold WILL
            > intefere with proper combustion air flow and reduce corn stove
            > efficiency. Water condensation is not a concern in warm climates
            (Ky,
            > Tn, Ms, Mo, Ok, Va, WVa, NC, SC, Al, Ga). If inside room air is
            used
            > for combustion air the exhaust manifold will remain well above
            exhaust
            > dew point. Any periodic vapours, gasses, or liquids passing through
            the
            > exhaust will evaporate and exhaust rather than collect.
            Unfortunately,
            > carbon particulate will continue to collect.
            > Install a large 2" ball valve out the bottom of the manifold for
            the
            > liquid drain. With a 2" ball valve full open, a vacuum cleaner tube
            > can be used to easily remove solid carbon particulate from the
            exhaust
            > manifold. The increased combustion air flow will decrease the
            > accumulation rate of carbon particulate.
            >
            > --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, "woody19582002" <woody19582002@>
            > wrote:
            > >
            > > Is anyone out there having rust thru on their secondary heat
            > exchangers?
            > > I have had to patch my tubes once and the bottom of the chamber
            twice
            > > in 2 years. I have sand blasted and used high heat paint on the
            tubes
            > > but it burns off in a couple of weeks. Any info would be much
            > > appreciated.
            > > Thanks from Michigan
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
            > Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
            >
          • millennium1000
            How cold did Michigan get this winter, Woody? How much corn did you use?
            Message 5 of 8 , Apr 19 10:24 PM
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              How cold did Michigan get this winter, Woody? How much corn did you
              use?
            • Cornstoves
              Crafton wrote: It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to accumulate. To elaborate further,only on a rainy day is RH near 100%. In a room at 100% RH,
              Message 6 of 8 , Apr 20 7:37 PM
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                Crafton wrote: It takes cold air below dew point for moisture to
                accumulate. To elaborate further,only on a rainy day is RH near
                100%. In a room at 100% RH, water will condense on any surface below
                room temp. Water will also evaporate from a surface or container at a
                temperature higher than room temperature. To thoroughly analize how
                water could accumulate in the exhaust manifold, can you provide: room
                air RH & temp, inlet comb air RH & temp, exhaust pipe temp
                We need to know how the surface temperature of the hot exhaust could
                fall below dew point. If you are boiling water to increase the RH,
                the savings are counterproductive because water takes more energy to
                heat than does air. Expensive is the Energy lost by leakage of moist
                100% RH room air to the outside. Leakage or loss of dry 50% RH room
                air to the outside is low cost. See www.msnusers.com/cornstoves for a
                thorough analysis of heat loss due to dew point.




                > How do you have the intake air configured? Is a damper used to
                ratio
                > the intake air? Have you measured the exhaust temp and also the
                room
                > inlet air temp? What is the room RH relative humidity and how does
                it
                > vary with room temp? Get the local dealer to heip you. The rust
                > problem will continue unless the root cause is determined.
                >
                >
                > --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, Daniel Wood <woody19582002@>
                > wrote:
                > >
                > > Myself and the three other parties who have contacted me all use
                > inside air for combustion.
                > > My secondary and a friends are being returned next week for
                > warranty replacement. His rusted out in one season. Afriend up
                north
                > is going through an attorney to get her money refunded.
                > > P.S. The same message was posted on another website, I received
                5
                > responses.
                > > Take Care
                > >
                > > Cornstoves <haclift@> wrote:
                > > Woody, Woody, Would he, do it if I told him how? First
                > off use room
                > > combustion air rather than cold outside air. Stove efficiency
                will
                > > improve. Room air is not cold enough to condense moisture in the
                > > exhaust manifold and corrode the contents. At least install a
                water
                > > drain on the exhaust manifold if you persist for some unknown
                > reason to
                > > bring super cold outside air into the combustion chamber to kill
                > the
                > > flames. The room combustion air concept sucks contaminated room
                air
                > > into the combustion chamber, burns it, and sends bad room air
                stuff
                > > outside. Room air will gradually become clean air rather than
                > > accumulation of house cleaning chemicals, insulation and carpet
                > > outgasses. Cigarette smoke, airborne dog smell, and cooking odors
                > are
                > > exhausted for free. In Minnesota, Michigan and Ohio, the Cold
                > outside
                > > air is below dew point of the corn stove exhaust. Water condenses
                > > inside the exhaust manifold, collects, and should be periodically
                > > removed. Install a manual ball valve drain for convenient routine
                > > drain. Excessive water collection in the exhaust manifold WILL
                > > intefere with proper combustion air flow and reduce corn stove
                > > efficiency. Water condensation is not a concern in warm climates
                > (Ky,
                > > Tn, Ms, Mo, Ok, Va, WVa, NC, SC, Al, Ga). If inside room air is
                > used
                > > for combustion air the exhaust manifold will remain well above
                > exhaust
                > > dew point. Any periodic vapours, gasses, or liquids passing
                through
                > the
                > > exhaust will evaporate and exhaust rather than collect.
                > Unfortunately,
                > > carbon particulate will continue to collect.
                > > Install a large 2" ball valve out the bottom of the manifold for
                > the
                > > liquid drain. With a 2" ball valve full open, a vacuum cleaner
                tube
                > > can be used to easily remove solid carbon particulate from the
                > exhaust
                > > manifold. The increased combustion air flow will decrease the
                > > accumulation rate of carbon particulate.
                > >
                > > --- In cornplace@yahoogroups.com, "woody19582002"
                <woody19582002@>
                > > wrote:
                > > >
                > > > Is anyone out there having rust thru on their secondary heat
                > > exchangers?
                > > > I have had to patch my tubes once and the bottom of the chamber
                > twice
                > > > in 2 years. I have sand blasted and used high heat paint on the
                > tubes
                > > > but it burns off in a couple of weeks. Any info would be much
                > > > appreciated.
                > > > Thanks from Michigan
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > ---------------------------------
                > > Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
                > > Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
                > >
                >
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