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  • tony12550@yahoo.com
    I have been reading some of the other Boondocking groups. And I think I caught the RV bug. This is the Question I came across an old RV midd 60s 24 foot The
    Message 1 of 8 , Sep 1, 2001
      I have been reading some of the other Boondocking groups. And I think
      I caught the RV bug. This is the Question I came across an old RV
      midd 60s 24 foot The only name on the side is [sightseer}. It has a
      318 dodge (44000 miles) and 3 speed auto. The rig is fiberglass on a
      very heavy fram (very little rust) with tandom wheels. In General it
      is in pretty good shape. The gas ref was replaced with a ac- dc one
      the water heater looks shot.
      My bigest concen is was this eng was meant to be run on leaded gas
      and what do I do about it. Any othe information would be of great
      help . The asking price is less than a grand so I have some mony to
      play with. Thanks in advance.
    • haljr57us@yahoo.com
      ... think ... a ... a ... it ... HAL HERE. WELCOME TO THE GROUP. AS TO RUNNING ON LEADED GAS, THERE ARE 2 THINGS YOU CAN DUE. ONE IS GET THE LEAD ADDATIVE AND
      Message 2 of 8 , Sep 1, 2001
        --- In classicrv@y..., tony12550@y... wrote:
        > I have been reading some of the other Boondocking groups. And I
        think
        > I caught the RV bug. This is the Question I came across an old RV
        > midd 60s 24 foot The only name on the side is [sightseer}. It has
        a
        > 318 dodge (44000 miles) and 3 speed auto. The rig is fiberglass on
        a
        > very heavy fram (very little rust) with tandom wheels. In General
        it
        > is in pretty good shape. The gas ref was replaced with a ac- dc one
        > the water heater looks shot.
        > My bigest concen is was this eng was meant to be run on leaded gas
        > and what do I do about it. Any othe information would be of great
        > help . The asking price is less than a grand so I have some mony to
        > play with. Thanks in advance.


        HAL HERE. WELCOME TO THE GROUP. AS TO RUNNING ON LEADED GAS, THERE
        ARE 2 THINGS YOU CAN DUE. ONE IS GET THE LEAD ADDATIVE AND PUT IN THE
        GAS TANK EVERY TIME YOU GAS. THE SECOND IS REMOVE THE HEADS AND HAVE
        THE HEADS REBUILT. THE VALVES AND VALVE SEATS WILL HAVE TO BE
        REPLACED. i AM NOT CURTAN ABOUT THE GAS TANK FILLER NECK, YOU MIGHT
        HAVE TO REPLACE IT ALLSO. GOOD LUCK. YOU WILL FIND IT A CHANGLE
        OWENING AN OLD RIG AND TRYING TO FIND THE PARTSTO REPARE IT, BUT IT
        IS ALL SO REWARDING TO KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND THE JOYS OF USING
        IT.
      • malabar13@hotmail.com
        Welcome to the group... Seems funny about adding the aditive... I have a 64 1/2 mustang with a 289 v-8 4 bl. runs fine on unleaded.?? ... has ... on ... one
        Message 3 of 8 , Sep 3, 2001
          Welcome to the group... Seems funny about adding the aditive... I
          have a 64 1/2 mustang with a 289 v-8 4 bl. runs fine on unleaded.??

          --- In classicrv@y..., haljr57us@y... wrote:
          > --- In classicrv@y..., tony12550@y... wrote:
          > > I have been reading some of the other Boondocking groups. And I
          > think
          > > I caught the RV bug. This is the Question I came across an old RV
          > > midd 60s 24 foot The only name on the side is [sightseer}. It
          has
          > a
          > > 318 dodge (44000 miles) and 3 speed auto. The rig is fiberglass
          on
          > a
          > > very heavy fram (very little rust) with tandom wheels. In General
          > it
          > > is in pretty good shape. The gas ref was replaced with a ac- dc
          one
          > > the water heater looks shot.
          > > My bigest concen is was this eng was meant to be run on leaded
          gas
          > > and what do I do about it. Any othe information would be of great
          > > help . The asking price is less than a grand so I have some mony
          to
          > > play with. Thanks in advance.
          >
          >
          > HAL HERE. WELCOME TO THE GROUP. AS TO RUNNING ON LEADED GAS, THERE
          > ARE 2 THINGS YOU CAN DUE. ONE IS GET THE LEAD ADDATIVE AND PUT IN
          THE
          > GAS TANK EVERY TIME YOU GAS. THE SECOND IS REMOVE THE HEADS AND
          HAVE
          > THE HEADS REBUILT. THE VALVES AND VALVE SEATS WILL HAVE TO BE
          > REPLACED. i AM NOT CURTAN ABOUT THE GAS TANK FILLER NECK, YOU MIGHT
          > HAVE TO REPLACE IT ALLSO. GOOD LUCK. YOU WILL FIND IT A CHANGLE
          > OWENING AN OLD RIG AND TRYING TO FIND THE PARTSTO REPARE IT, BUT IT
          > IS ALL SO REWARDING TO KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND THE JOYS OF
          USING
          > IT.
        • Duane
          Probably so - but I think your valves and valve seats will self destruct pre-maturely. Dad ... I ... RV ... General ... leaded ... great ... mony ... THERE ...
          Message 4 of 8 , Sep 3, 2001
            Probably so - but I think your valves and valve seats will self
            destruct pre-maturely.

            Dad



            --- In classicrv@y..., malabar13@h... wrote:
            > Welcome to the group... Seems funny about adding the aditive... I
            > have a 64 1/2 mustang with a 289 v-8 4 bl. runs fine on unleaded.??
            >
            > --- In classicrv@y..., haljr57us@y... wrote:
            > > --- In classicrv@y..., tony12550@y... wrote:
            > > > I have been reading some of the other Boondocking groups. And
            I
            > > think
            > > > I caught the RV bug. This is the Question I came across an old
            RV
            > > > midd 60s 24 foot The only name on the side is [sightseer}. It
            > has
            > > a
            > > > 318 dodge (44000 miles) and 3 speed auto. The rig is fiberglass
            > on
            > > a
            > > > very heavy fram (very little rust) with tandom wheels. In
            General
            > > it
            > > > is in pretty good shape. The gas ref was replaced with a ac- dc
            > one
            > > > the water heater looks shot.
            > > > My bigest concen is was this eng was meant to be run on
            leaded
            > gas
            > > > and what do I do about it. Any othe information would be of
            great
            > > > help . The asking price is less than a grand so I have some
            mony
            > to
            > > > play with. Thanks in advance.
            > >
            > >
            > > HAL HERE. WELCOME TO THE GROUP. AS TO RUNNING ON LEADED GAS,
            THERE
            > > ARE 2 THINGS YOU CAN DUE. ONE IS GET THE LEAD ADDATIVE AND PUT IN
            > THE
            > > GAS TANK EVERY TIME YOU GAS. THE SECOND IS REMOVE THE HEADS AND
            > HAVE
            > > THE HEADS REBUILT. THE VALVES AND VALVE SEATS WILL HAVE TO BE
            > > REPLACED. i AM NOT CURTAN ABOUT THE GAS TANK FILLER NECK, YOU
            MIGHT
            > > HAVE TO REPLACE IT ALLSO. GOOD LUCK. YOU WILL FIND IT A CHANGLE
            > > OWENING AN OLD RIG AND TRYING TO FIND THE PARTSTO REPARE IT, BUT
            IT
            > > IS ALL SO REWARDING TO KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND THE JOYS OF
            > USING
            > > IT.
          • bobalou1@prodigy.net
            The lead was put into the gas to help keep the valves cool, I think I seen a report that stated that it appears that there is no apperant problems with running
            Message 5 of 8 , Sep 3, 2001
              The lead was put into the gas to help keep the valves cool, I
              think I seen a report that stated that it appears that there is no
              apperant problems with running on unleaded. If anyone else has heard
              this report please back me up.

              Just my 2 cents worth, Bob.


              --- In classicrv@y..., "Duane" <deschwar@h...> wrote:
              > Probably so - but I think your valves and valve seats will self
              > destruct pre-maturely.
              >
              > Dad
              >
              >
              >
              > --- In classicrv@y..., malabar13@h... wrote:
              > > Welcome to the group... Seems funny about adding the aditive...
              I
              > > have a 64 1/2 mustang with a 289 v-8 4 bl. runs fine on
              unleaded.??
              > >
              > > --- In classicrv@y..., haljr57us@y... wrote:
              > > > --- In classicrv@y..., tony12550@y... wrote:
              > > > > I have been reading some of the other Boondocking groups.
              And
              > I
              > > > think
              > > > > I caught the RV bug. This is the Question I came across an
              old
              > RV
              > > > > midd 60s 24 foot The only name on the side is [sightseer}.
              It
              > > has
              > > > a
              > > > > 318 dodge (44000 miles) and 3 speed auto. The rig is
              fiberglass
              > > on
              > > > a
              > > > > very heavy fram (very little rust) with tandom wheels. In
              > General
              > > > it
              > > > > is in pretty good shape. The gas ref was replaced with a ac-
              dc
              > > one
              > > > > the water heater looks shot.
              > > > > My bigest concen is was this eng was meant to be run on
              > leaded
              > > gas
              > > > > and what do I do about it. Any othe information would be of
              > great
              > > > > help . The asking price is less than a grand so I have some
              > mony
              > > to
              > > > > play with. Thanks in advance.
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > HAL HERE. WELCOME TO THE GROUP. AS TO RUNNING ON LEADED GAS,
              > THERE
              > > > ARE 2 THINGS YOU CAN DUE. ONE IS GET THE LEAD ADDATIVE AND PUT
              IN
              > > THE
              > > > GAS TANK EVERY TIME YOU GAS. THE SECOND IS REMOVE THE HEADS AND
              > > HAVE
              > > > THE HEADS REBUILT. THE VALVES AND VALVE SEATS WILL HAVE TO BE
              > > > REPLACED. i AM NOT CURTAN ABOUT THE GAS TANK FILLER NECK, YOU
              > MIGHT
              > > > HAVE TO REPLACE IT ALLSO. GOOD LUCK. YOU WILL FIND IT A CHANGLE
              > > > OWENING AN OLD RIG AND TRYING TO FIND THE PARTSTO REPARE IT,
              BUT
              > IT
              > > > IS ALL SO REWARDING TO KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND THE JOYS OF
              > > USING
              > > > IT.
            • Bill Combs
              ... Conventional wisdom (you ll have to figure out how much credence you put in such) is that lead had two major jobs in gasoline: (1) increase octane, which
              Message 6 of 8 , Sep 3, 2001
                > on 9/3/01 5:34 PM, bobalou1@...1@... wrote:

                > The lead was put into the gas to help keep the valves cool, I
                > think I seen a report that stated that it appears that there is no
                > apperant problems with running on unleaded. If anyone else has heard
                > this report please back me up.
                >
                > Just my 2 cents worth, Bob.

                Conventional wisdom (you'll have to figure out how much credence you put in
                such) is that lead had two major jobs in gasoline:
                (1) increase octane, which really means limit pre-ignition and resulting
                turbulence and locally very high peak temperatures. Something to do with
                regulating the flamefront or such arcane notions.
                (2) mechanically cushion valve seats and valves, which take a mighty
                pounding pounding what with slamming shut thousands of times per minute.

                If the octane of the gas you use is high enough, you needn't worry about the
                first. Other types of smoke and mirrors have been used to increase octane.
                The second issue is more problematic. The common solution for the removal of
                lead (cushioning) was for engine manufacturers to strengthen (harden) the
                valves and valve seats. Older engines may or may not have valves and seats
                up to the challenge of operating without lead but can usually be
                retro-fitted with such when the heads are rebuilt. Consensus is that a lot
                of production engines were not built with such operation in mind and thus
                are not suited to that operation. The solution, if you have such a belief,
                is to add a commercial "re-leading" agent. If I remember correctly, they
                aren't really lead but have some other ingredient that has the same
                cushioning effect.

                I have an automobile with a 1967 Dodge 440 HP that has never seen lead,
                operating first only on Amoco Premium and then on what we all use now --
                with liberal use of octane booster in the last couple of decades. The valves
                are OK, but mileage is only 90,000. I use no re-lead additives. On the RV,
                on the other hand -- also a lead-era 440 -- I use a re-lead additive in one
                of her two tanks, the same one that feeds the (old) genset. I think of it as
                a precautionary measure.

                Regards,
                Bill Combs <ttursine@...>
                http://home.earthlink.net/~ttursine
                --
                Stupidity got us into this mess
                ... why can't it get us out?
              • Don (MI)
                Converting an engine from leaded to unleaded fuel requires replacing the valves and valve seats. Running a leaded fuel engine on unleaded fuel will eventually
                Message 7 of 8 , Sep 3, 2001
                  Converting an engine from leaded to unleaded fuel requires replacing
                  the valves and valve seats. Running a leaded fuel engine on unleaded
                  fuel will eventually cause the valves and/or the valve seats to burn
                  and the engine will lose compression. How long will this take?
                  Don't know. I suppose it depends on how hard the vehicle is
                  driven. Bottom line is the valves/seats will eventually need to be
                  replaced, the question is when, now or later.

                  If I was going to do a major restoration with the thought of keeping
                  and using the rig for many years, I think I would do it now while the
                  rest of the restoration is taking place. However, if this rig was a
                  first step into the RV world to see how or if I will enjoy it, and
                  the engine seems to run ok on unleaded, I would use it as is for at
                  least the rest of the year. This would postpone the investment
                  until I knew if I liked Rving and if this rig will suit me and my
                  family. Worst case scenario, the valves/seats give out and need to
                  be replaced. Best case scenario, you'll get several years out of
                  the rig as is.

                  Keep us posted on how it goes.

                  Don (MI)
                  It's never too late to have a happy childhood!


                  --- In classicrv@y..., tony12550@y... wrote:
                  > I have been reading some of the other Boondocking groups. And I
                  think
                  > I caught the RV bug. This is the Question I came across an old RV
                  > midd 60s 24 foot The only name on the side is [sightseer}. It has
                  a
                  > 318 dodge (44000 miles) and 3 speed auto. The rig is fiberglass on
                  a
                  > very heavy fram (very little rust) with tandom wheels. In General
                  it
                  > is in pretty good shape. The gas ref was replaced with a ac- dc one
                  > the water heater looks shot.
                  > My bigest concen is was this eng was meant to be run on leaded gas
                  > and what do I do about it. Any othe information would be of great
                  > help . The asking price is less than a grand so I have some mony to
                  > play with. Thanks in advance.
                • Bruce Morris
                  You are probably right, Duane. But when I looked into it for one of my previous coaches the conclusion I came to based on the best advice I could get was to
                  Message 8 of 8 , Sep 3, 2001
                    You are probably right, Duane. But when I looked into it for one of
                    my previous coaches the conclusion I came to based on the best advice
                    I could get was to run it either with the additive or without. If I
                    ran it without, it would probably require the heads to be pulled
                    within 60 to 100 thousand miles and the valves and seats replaced
                    with hardened ones.

                    I figured I would never drive it that far anyway and in the unlikely
                    event I did, I would have the work done then.

                    Regards, Bruce Raleigh, NC 1983 Wanderlodge 35FC-RB
                    FMCA 7142s GoodSam ARS KI4ME
                    Web: http://www.geocities.com/bamnc/mypage.html

                    --- In classicrv@y..., "Duane" <deschwar@h...> wrote:
                    > Probably so - but I think your valves and valve seats will self
                    > destruct pre-maturely.
                    >
                    > Dad
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