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1976 Pawnee

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  • corby g
    I added some pics of The Pawnee. Starting to renovate. More pics to come. What to use on roof for sealer?? How much of the old crap needs to be removed, or
    Message 1 of 3 , May 3, 2013
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      I added some pics of The Pawnee. Starting to renovate. More pics to come. What to use on roof for sealer?? How much of the old crap needs to be removed, or just a clean surface. Not sure what rof is made of or what was used to cover or seal in past.Any help or advice appreciated. RV is kept in WI.
    • Todd Barnard
      In 76 most roofs were either galvanized steel or aluminum. Both would have had a petroleum based (Storm King) product that had fibrous and reflective
      Message 2 of 3 , May 3, 2013
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        In '76 most roofs were either galvanized steel or aluminum. Both would
        have had a petroleum based (Storm King) product that had fibrous and
        reflective additives. I always recommend sticking with the original
        product if it hasn't already been recoated with a multitude if different
        materials already.

        Best practice is, pick as hot a day as you can stand, wear work gloves and
        scrape any loose material from the seam with a dull putty knife. I have a
        4" one that has a 8" long wooden handle.

        Being on a metal RV roof on a hot day is awful, but its really is the best
        for softening the old material for scraping. The new coating will go on
        thinner and flow better on these days too.

        The old roof coat can have very sharp edges, and if it has areas that stick
        better than others, it can release unexpectedly as you are applying
        pressure, and travel up the blade and handle in a heartbeat, slicing your
        flesh. The longer handle give you slightly more reaction time, and often
        allowed the coating to rise above your knuckles rather than gouging them.

        Anything still well bonded to the roof can stay and be coated over. Coat
        the seams, around vents, accessories and any patches.

        I'm not a fan of coating the entire roof. I've seen roofs leaks that were
        nearly impossible to locate after this has been done, either thru pinholes
        developing over time, or punctures made by falling twigs and hail. A sharp,
        heavy twig can hit hard enough to dimple and pierce the roofing, and I have
        seen the coating pop back up leaving a relatively level surface, containing
        a tiny hole or crack, suspended over a funnel shaped hole in the roofing.

        These can create a slow leak that can do a ton of damage long before its
        noticed.

        If you have several different types of coating on the roof already, then
        you could have several things going on.

        1. A reaction can occur between the 2 coatings and weaken the bond to the
        roof, causing it to come loose.

        2. The bond between the 2 coatings can be stronger than the bond to the
        roof, and the differing expansion rates of the 2 materials can cause them
        to curl and peel.

        In either case, I recommend scraping off as much of the old material as
        possible and picking a modern roof coat with some viscosity and fiber in
        it. Again, coat over any remaining roof coat, knowing that the processes
        mentioned above may occur and you may have to chase this condition over
        several seasons to get it stabilized. Stick with the product you have
        chosen. Going over it with the latest miracle coating is only going to
        create avoidable problems.

        I have mentioned here many times that I am not a fan of the thinner (Kool
        Seal) products. They look like hell on galv roofs as the rust tends to
        bleed thru, and I have found that it can discolor and peel on any roof
        where rain water can pool in oil cans or depressions.

        BTW, I saw someone here mention a tape that they would use and call it
        "done for life". Sounds like a miracle to me!

        Some roofs are better designed and require less maintenance than others,
        but all need regular inspection and touch up to be less likely to leak.
        Invest a couple of hours time and some money on decent coatings, or pay for
        the ceiling panels and rafters that will need replacing later.

        Customers would just about fall over at the price of a ceiling job, and
        insurance companies are far more willing to deny coverage based on
        improper or lack of maintenance.

        Todd.










        On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 6:47 AM, corby g <cguillett@...> wrote:

        > **
        >
        >
        > I added some pics of The Pawnee. Starting to renovate. More pics to come.
        > What to use on roof for sealer?? How much of the old crap needs to be
        > removed, or just a clean surface. Not sure what rof is made of or what was
        > used to cover or seal in past.Any help or advice appreciated. RV is kept in
        > WI.
        >
        >
        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • corby g
        Thanks... we dent with dicor(Dycor)20/20 recommended by rv parts and service guy ay Vanboxtel rv in Green Bay WI. Really thick and heavy almost like caulk
        Message 3 of 3 , May 12, 2013
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          Thanks... we dent with dicor(Dycor)20/20 recommended by rv parts and service guy ay Vanboxtel rv in Green Bay WI. Really thick and heavy almost like caulk but applied with a brush. Was going to use Kool seal but he recommended this. He had 3 or 4 different brands to choose from. Said that should work best for us and last the longest.

          --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Todd Barnard <twbarnard@...> wrote:
          >
          > In '76 most roofs were either galvanized steel or aluminum. Both would
          > have had a petroleum based (Storm King) product that had fibrous and
          > reflective additives. I always recommend sticking with the original
          > product if it hasn't already been recoated with a multitude if different
          > materials already.
          >
          > Best practice is, pick as hot a day as you can stand, wear work gloves and
          > scrape any loose material from the seam with a dull putty knife. I have a
          > 4" one that has a 8" long wooden handle.
          >
          > Being on a metal RV roof on a hot day is awful, but its really is the best
          > for softening the old material for scraping. The new coating will go on
          > thinner and flow better on these days too.
          >
          > The old roof coat can have very sharp edges, and if it has areas that stick
          > better than others, it can release unexpectedly as you are applying
          > pressure, and travel up the blade and handle in a heartbeat, slicing your
          > flesh. The longer handle give you slightly more reaction time, and often
          > allowed the coating to rise above your knuckles rather than gouging them.
          >
          > Anything still well bonded to the roof can stay and be coated over. Coat
          > the seams, around vents, accessories and any patches.
          >
          > I'm not a fan of coating the entire roof. I've seen roofs leaks that were
          > nearly impossible to locate after this has been done, either thru pinholes
          > developing over time, or punctures made by falling twigs and hail. A sharp,
          > heavy twig can hit hard enough to dimple and pierce the roofing, and I have
          > seen the coating pop back up leaving a relatively level surface, containing
          > a tiny hole or crack, suspended over a funnel shaped hole in the roofing.
          >
          > These can create a slow leak that can do a ton of damage long before its
          > noticed.
          >
          > If you have several different types of coating on the roof already, then
          > you could have several things going on.
          >
          > 1. A reaction can occur between the 2 coatings and weaken the bond to the
          > roof, causing it to come loose.
          >
          > 2. The bond between the 2 coatings can be stronger than the bond to the
          > roof, and the differing expansion rates of the 2 materials can cause them
          > to curl and peel.
          >
          > In either case, I recommend scraping off as much of the old material as
          > possible and picking a modern roof coat with some viscosity and fiber in
          > it. Again, coat over any remaining roof coat, knowing that the processes
          > mentioned above may occur and you may have to chase this condition over
          > several seasons to get it stabilized. Stick with the product you have
          > chosen. Going over it with the latest miracle coating is only going to
          > create avoidable problems.
          >
          > I have mentioned here many times that I am not a fan of the thinner (Kool
          > Seal) products. They look like hell on galv roofs as the rust tends to
          > bleed thru, and I have found that it can discolor and peel on any roof
          > where rain water can pool in oil cans or depressions.
          >
          > BTW, I saw someone here mention a tape that they would use and call it
          > "done for life". Sounds like a miracle to me!
          >
          > Some roofs are better designed and require less maintenance than others,
          > but all need regular inspection and touch up to be less likely to leak.
          > Invest a couple of hours time and some money on decent coatings, or pay for
          > the ceiling panels and rafters that will need replacing later.
          >
          > Customers would just about fall over at the price of a ceiling job, and
          > insurance companies are far more willing to deny coverage based on
          > improper or lack of maintenance.
          >
          > Todd.
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 6:47 AM, corby g <cguillett@...> wrote:
          >
          > > **
          > >
          > >
          > > I added some pics of The Pawnee. Starting to renovate. More pics to come.
          > > What to use on roof for sealer?? How much of the old crap needs to be
          > > removed, or just a clean surface. Not sure what rof is made of or what was
          > > used to cover or seal in past.Any help or advice appreciated. RV is kept in
          > > WI.
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
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