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Re: Anybody out there work on their Suburban furnace?

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  • Tom Jones
    The problem with my suburban furnace was the igniter. After adjusting the spark gap, it worked fine. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    Message 1 of 15 , Mar 1, 2012
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      The problem with my suburban furnace was the igniter. After adjusting the
      spark gap, it worked fine.



      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Tab r Hunte
      If you had to adjust the gap it very well may be that the coil is getting weak, unusual for them to get out of adjustment,i worked as a plumber and heating
      Message 2 of 15 , Mar 1, 2012
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        If you had to adjust the gap it very well may be that the coil is getting weak, unusual for them to get out of adjustment,i worked as a plumber and heating tech most of my life. not on rvs, but a furnace is a furnace . 



        ________________________________
        From: Tom Jones <TomJones96@...>
        To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thursday, March 1, 2012 8:10 AM
        Subject: [classicrv] Re: Anybody out there work on their Suburban furnace?

        The problem with my suburban furnace was the igniter.  After adjusting the
        spark gap, it worked fine.



        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



        ------------------------------------

        Yahoo! Groups Links



        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • rick haywood
        that happens when heat warps the little rods just enough to make the gap to large. i believe i still have  a used igniter i kept out of a surburban, got a
        Message 3 of 15 , Mar 1, 2012
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          that happens when heat warps the little rods just enough to make the gap to large. i believe i still have  a used igniter i kept out of a surburban, got a control board and some other things as well. i have a surburban that is a pilot model as well sitting out on the picnic table going to scavenge it for parts for my bins.  plenum is cracked on that one.  rick

          --- On Thu, 3/1/12, Tom Jones <TomJones96@...> wrote:

          From: Tom Jones <TomJones96@...>
          Subject: [classicrv] Re: Anybody out there work on their Suburban furnace?
          To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Thursday, March 1, 2012, 6:10 AM
















           









          The problem with my suburban furnace was the igniter. After adjusting the

          spark gap, it worked fine.



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



























          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Roland Hyatt
          This is an EXTREMELY valuable site. Many owner s and service manuals. Suburban is there. http://bryantrv.com/docs.html#furnace Whenever possible I would
          Message 4 of 15 , Mar 1, 2012
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            This is an EXTREMELY valuable site. Many owner's and service manuals.
            Suburban is there. http://bryantrv.com/docs.html#furnace

            Whenever possible I would patronize their site because of the very
            valuable service provided to us, the Rvers.

            Roland Hyatt
          • RogerD
            Good comments here - lots of information about Suburban furnaces. As you have both gas feed and ignition failure, seems the advice on checking the control
            Message 5 of 15 , Mar 1, 2012
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              Good comments here - lots of information about Suburban furnaces.

              As you have both gas feed and ignition failure, seems the advice on checking the control system is correct. Chances of the gas valve and the ignitor both failing on their own is unlikely.

              Don't think that an RV repair shop will always solve your problem. I took my rig to a dealer in eastern Pennsylvania for repair to a furnace like yours. Big shop with lots of RVIA technician certs on the wall. Got it home and it still would not fire. They swore it worked in the shop, but made the comment it needed more gas pressure (what!!!). Sure did, as I found the gas nozzle clogged by a piece of crud! You can't diagnose anything without removing the cover, and they never even took it out to do that (10 minute job). Board tester? Hah - don't count on a shop having one. Ask around.

              If you do have to replace the board, I would recommend the improved ones from Dinosaur Electronics. Their standard board (UIB S) will make three tries to ignite then lock out. If you use the furnace on 12 volt only overnight, their Fan 50 Plus board will also shut off the blower after the three tries without ignition. Comes in handy if you run out of propane unattended. The factory board (at least older models) will keep trying to start, and suck your battery dry because the blower will keep running. Any RV parts seller can get these.

              http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm

              Roger

              --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "tom" <TBBahner@...> wrote:
              >
              > Hi all, the Suburban NT30m furnace in the old '82 Cross Country doesn't want to fire.
              > Fan runs, no gas, no ignite. Full tank of propane.
              > Want to try to fix it myself but don't want to blow up the coach or myself. Should I do it myself or take it to an RV center and fork over the bucks.
              > I've pulled it out, sail switch appears to work when moved manually.
              > Any info appreciated.
              > Thanks
              > Tom B
              >
            • tom
              Houston, we have ignition and lift off! But, luckily no explosion Thought I would give and update. Reinstalled the furnace yesterday after I d done about
              Message 6 of 15 , Mar 2, 2012
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                Houston, we have ignition and lift off!
                But, luckily no explosion

                Thought I would give and update. Reinstalled the furnace yesterday after I'd done about everything I could do-with a huge amount of help from Docrocker Thanks Todd. I owe you a few cold ones if you ever get to NE Ks.

                This old girl only has 26k on it and spent most of its life under roof. The major problem was probably just sitting.

                We think cleaning the contacts on the board where the plug from the Tstat goes might have been a major contributor. After removing the board, the foil contacts can be cleaned with a red pencil eraser.
                The other thing I did was adjust the ignitor contact a little closer to the center electrode. It should be 1/8 - 1/32 according to doc.
                Before reinstalling any component, contacts were clean and shiny. I also removed the burner and cleaned it up by running a hack saw blade through the slots to clean the rust off, wire wheeled the rest and blew it out with compressed air.

                One other thing I noticed, there isn't a lot of clearance between the sail switch arm and the opening in fan box. Make sure tab isn't bent and the arm hanging up.

                There ain't much room to diagnose this thing without pulling it. At least I don't see how it could be done.

                I was about to take it in to an RV center, as another forum about scared me out of working on it. But, on a limited budget, just couldn't deal with shelling out several $100 to have them look at it.
                Doubt they like dealing with antiques anyway. I figured, what the H---, I ain't out anything and can always take it in if no success.

                Sorry for the long post. But, the wife will be happier the first time we take it out.
                Thanks all for help and replies.
                Tom B


                --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "RogerD" <red2dog45@...> wrote:
                >
                > Good comments here - lots of information about Suburban furnaces.
                >
                > As you have both gas feed and ignition failure, seems the advice on checking the control system is correct. Chances of the gas valve and the ignitor both failing on their own is unlikely.
                >
                > Don't think that an RV repair shop will always solve your problem. I took my rig to a dealer in eastern Pennsylvania for repair to a furnace like yours. Big shop with lots of RVIA technician certs on the wall. Got it home and it still would not fire. They swore it worked in the shop, but made the comment it needed more gas pressure (what!!!). Sure did, as I found the gas nozzle clogged by a piece of crud! You can't diagnose anything without removing the cover, and they never even took it out to do that (10 minute job). Board tester? Hah - don't count on a shop having one. Ask around.
                >
                > If you do have to replace the board, I would recommend the improved ones from Dinosaur Electronics. Their standard board (UIB S) will make three tries to ignite then lock out. If you use the furnace on 12 volt only overnight, their Fan 50 Plus board will also shut off the blower after the three tries without ignition. Comes in handy if you run out of propane unattended. The factory board (at least older models) will keep trying to start, and suck your battery dry because the blower will keep running. Any RV parts seller can get these.
                >
                > http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm
                >
                > Roger
                >
                > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "tom" <TBBahner@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Hi all, the Suburban NT30m furnace in the old '82 Cross Country doesn't want to fire.
                > > Fan runs, no gas, no ignite. Full tank of propane.
                > > Want to try to fix it myself but don't want to blow up the coach or myself. Should I do it myself or take it to an RV center and fork over the bucks.
                > > I've pulled it out, sail switch appears to work when moved manually.
                > > Any info appreciated.
                > > Thanks
                > > Tom B
                > >
                >
              • Joyce
                So glad you got your furnace working. The wonderful people on this group are always willing to help and encourage. I have learned so much here. We all learn
                Message 7 of 15 , Mar 2, 2012
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                  So glad you got your furnace working. The wonderful people on this group are always willing to help and encourage. I have learned so much here. We all learn when anyone asks a question. Joyce

                  Sent from my U.S. Cellular® Android phone

                  tom <TBBahner@...> wrote:

                  >Houston, we have ignition and lift off!
                  >But, luckily no explosion
                  >
                  >Thought I would give and update. Reinstalled the furnace yesterday after I'd done about everything I could do-with a huge amount of help from Docrocker Thanks Todd. I owe you a few cold ones if you ever get to NE Ks.
                  >
                  >This old girl only has 26k on it and spent most of its life under roof. The major problem was probably just sitting.
                  >
                  >We think cleaning the contacts on the board where the plug from the Tstat goes might have been a major contributor. After removing the board, the foil contacts can be cleaned with a red pencil eraser.
                  >The other thing I did was adjust the ignitor contact a little closer to the center electrode. It should be 1/8 - 1/32 according to doc.
                  >Before reinstalling any component, contacts were clean and shiny. I also removed the burner and cleaned it up by running a hack saw blade through the slots to clean the rust off, wire wheeled the rest and blew it out with compressed air.
                  >
                  >One other thing I noticed, there isn't a lot of clearance between the sail switch arm and the opening in fan box. Make sure tab isn't bent and the arm hanging up.
                  >
                  >There ain't much room to diagnose this thing without pulling it. At least I don't see how it could be done.
                  >
                  >I was about to take it in to an RV center, as another forum about scared me out of working on it. But, on a limited budget, just couldn't deal with shelling out several $100 to have them look at it.
                  >Doubt they like dealing with antiques anyway. I figured, what the H---, I ain't out anything and can always take it in if no success.
                  >
                  >Sorry for the long post. But, the wife will be happier the first time we take it out.
                  >Thanks all for help and replies.
                  >Tom B
                  >
                  >
                  >--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "RogerD" <red2dog45@...> wrote:
                  >>
                  >> Good comments here - lots of information about Suburban furnaces.
                  >>
                  >> As you have both gas feed and ignition failure, seems the advice on checking the control system is correct. Chances of the gas valve and the ignitor both failing on their own is unlikely.
                  >>
                  >> Don't think that an RV repair shop will always solve your problem. I took my rig to a dealer in eastern Pennsylvania for repair to a furnace like yours. Big shop with lots of RVIA technician certs on the wall. Got it home and it still would not fire. They swore it worked in the shop, but made the comment it needed more gas pressure (what!!!). Sure did, as I found the gas nozzle clogged by a piece of crud! You can't diagnose anything without removing the cover, and they never even took it out to do that (10 minute job). Board tester? Hah - don't count on a shop having one. Ask around.
                  >>
                  >> If you do have to replace the board, I would recommend the improved ones from Dinosaur Electronics. Their standard board (UIB S) will make three tries to ignite then lock out. If you use the furnace on 12 volt only overnight, their Fan 50 Plus board will also shut off the blower after the three tries without ignition. Comes in handy if you run out of propane unattended. The factory board (at least older models) will keep trying to start, and suck your battery dry because the blower will keep running. Any RV parts seller can get these.
                  >>
                  >> http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm
                  >>
                  >> Roger
                  >>
                  >> --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "tom" <TBBahner@> wrote:
                  >> >
                  >> > Hi all, the Suburban NT30m furnace in the old '82 Cross Country doesn't want to fire.
                  >> > Fan runs, no gas, no ignite. Full tank of propane.
                  >> > Want to try to fix it myself but don't want to blow up the coach or myself. Should I do it myself or take it to an RV center and fork over the bucks.
                  >> > I've pulled it out, sail switch appears to work when moved manually.
                  >> > Any info appreciated.
                  >> > Thanks
                  >> > Tom B
                  >> >
                  >>
                  >
                  >
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