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Plastic Gas Tank / Sending unit

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  • gideon_70
    I have a plastic gas tank, with a rotted out sending unit in it. I m trying to find a replacement tank, and sending unit as well - but can t seem to find
    Message 1 of 17 , Mar 1, 2010
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      I have a plastic gas tank, with a rotted out sending unit in it. I'm trying to find a replacement tank, and sending unit as well - but can't seem to find ANYTHING on the net!

      The motorhome is a 1980 Champion Titan, 23' on a dodge chassis.

      IF I have to , I can use the old sending unit, but need the float.

      The tank has a divot in it where the driveshaft lost it's carrier bearing and rubbed against it. The tank is solid so far, and it would probably be better to repair this one, if I could figure out how.

      Any help would be much appriciated.

      Matthew in Florida.
    • Jim
      use google.com to search for: plastic gas tank repair kit there are a couple of RV boneyards around the country that may have one, but it will be old also. I
      Message 2 of 17 , Mar 2, 2010
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        use google.com to search for:
        plastic gas tank repair kit

        there are a couple of RV boneyards around the country that may have one, but it will be old also.
        I have an 83 champion 24 foot, but it has a metal diesel tank.
        Instead of looking for the RV gas tank, look for a truck of the same era on the same chassis. My 83 is on a GM P-30. There is a lot of stuff on the net on the P-30.

        -Jim

        --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "gideon_70" <antispam@...> wrote:
        >
        > I have a plastic gas tank, with a rotted out sending unit in it. I'm t.... Matthew in Florida.
        >
      • denisond3d3
        ... The motorhome is a 1980 Champion Titan, 23 on a dodge chassis. ... Most all mopar vehicles used the same swing of resitance for the fuel gauges - and
        Message 3 of 17 , Mar 2, 2010
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          <antispam@...> wrote:
          > I have a plastic gas tank, with a rotted out sending unit in it. I'm trying to find a replacement tank, and sending unit as well - but can't seem to find ANYTHING on the net!
          The motorhome is a 1980 Champion Titan, 23' on a dodge chassis.
          > IF I have to , I can use the old sending unit, but need the float.
          > The tank has a divot in it where the driveshaft lost it's carrier bearing and rubbed against it. The tank is solid so far, and it would probably be better to repair this one, if I could figure out how.
          > Any help would be much appriciated.
          > Matthew in Florida.

          Most all mopar vehicles used the same swing of resitance for the fuel gauges - and JCWhitney even used to carry them; called 'fuel level float' , though it was the float, arm, and resistance mounted on a metal circle that attcached to the tank top. They no longer show them however - though if you walk into their store in LaSalle Illinois, all kinds of odd stuff can be found.
          I would advise trying a NAPA dealer. If you just need a float, get the fuel level sender unit for any vehicle of similar age, and atach it to the metal wire arm.

          I know what is like for the driveshaft to loose the center bearing. Mine siezed its bearing, ripped the rubber mounting web to shreds, and resulted in an amazingly serious vibration. (72 Winnebago on M400 chassis). Luckily a local auto parts place had one (those support bearings are very standardized), was willing to deliver it to us where we were stranded, and I replaced it at the side of the road, on a warm sunny day, on a clean grass verge. Cost Me $12, and 2 hours of steady work - mostly hammering the old bearing off of the shaft.
        • BOB ROSS
          The sending unit should be available (possibly as a generic unit) at most auto parts places for fairly minimal money..Second the recomendation of NAPA. About
          Message 4 of 17 , Mar 3, 2010
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            The sending unit should be available (possibly as a generic unit) at most auto parts places for fairly minimal money..Second the recomendation of NAPA.

            About your tank, you might try a radiator repair shop.
            good luck
            antiqbob
            76 titan
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          • Matthew Hudson
            Hi again folks. I m looking for a little education, if I may. I have an older motorhome, and the gentleman that rewired it did it nicely, but I m concerned
            Message 5 of 17 , Mar 16, 2010
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              Hi again folks. I'm looking for a little education, if I may.

              I have an older motorhome, and the gentleman that rewired it did it
              nicely, but I'm concerned about the charger (killed two batteries
              already) and house 12v systems. I don't know why it killed the
              batteries, and it also seems to draw power when it is unplugged (bad
              diodes?) but be that as it may, it needs to be replaced.


              I've looked at a bunch of them, and them pictures in them catilogs are
              all purdy and everthin', but don't really tell me nuthin.

              I spoke with a service manager at one RV place, and he told me a 45amp
              converter would be about all I would need in my RV.

              What I have now is:

              A charger/converter, no idea about brand or size, that information was
              lost with the label years ago.

              A 110v power center that is hardwired into the plug.

              a 110 v generator that needs some SERIOUS tlc, but runs and charges.

              a lot of wiring that is spliced, chopped, stuffed, tangled and mostly
              just makes no sense.


              8888888

              What I want to do.

              Install a new converter/charger (and possibly filter the AC),
              Clean up my wiring (not asking for help on that, it's pretty easy),
              Run new lines from my battery bank to the charger,
              install a panel that gives me a circuit open taletale on the lines that
              go to the battery.


              Any ideas of products that will do that without costing me 1,245,548.00?


              Oh, almost forgot. DC is lighting and a couple of ventilation fans.
              (I'm going to add a house CD/DVD player)

              ONAN generator 4kw

              AC is one 15,000 AC, one nukkerwave (newer one), one DVD player (new)
              and two older televisions.


              Thanks to anyone that can help.
            • leeanns24
              I bought a Progressive Dynamics PD-9145 with an add-on Charge Wizard - that s the 45 amp version. I ve never been unhappy with it. The charge wizard is a smart
              Message 6 of 17 , Mar 17, 2010
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                I bought a Progressive Dynamics PD-9145 with an add-on Charge Wizard - that's the 45 amp version. I've never been unhappy with it. The charge wizard is a smart charger to correctly and properly charge all types of batteries properly. The 92xx series has the charge wizard built in. We've never needed more than the 45 amps...and I have a 4kw Onan, small (new) microwave, 6-cup coffeemaker, 3 batteries (house, coach and genny), stereo and 12v & 110v lights, plus the standard cellphone/laptop/iPod chargers.

                Leeann
                '73 Concord 20' Class A
                Dodge RM300 chassis, 440/727

                Got mine at RVpartsoutlet. They have the PD-9245C here: http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/product_info.php?cPath=841_83&products_id=8805

                And specs here: http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/rv_conv/rv_converter_pd9245c_2.html

                --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Matthew Hudson <antispam@...> wrote:
                > I spoke with a service manager at one RV place, and he told me a 45amp
                > converter would be about all I would need in my RV.
              • Jon
                Second the Progressive Dynamics choice Leeann, just replaced my old converter with a PD-9260 two months ago. Jon 92 Ultrastar Cummins 5.9, Oshkosh MC16-FD
                Message 7 of 17 , Mar 18, 2010
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                  Second the Progressive Dynamics choice Leeann, just replaced my old converter with a PD-9260 two months ago.

                  Jon
                  92 Ultrastar
                  Cummins 5.9, Oshkosh MC16-FD

                  --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "leeanns24" <leeanns24@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > I bought a Progressive Dynamics PD-9145 with an add-on Charge Wizard - that's the 45 amp version. I've never been unhappy with it. The charge wizard is a smart charger to correctly and properly charge all types of batteries properly. The 92xx series has the charge wizard built in. We've never needed more than the 45 amps...and I have a 4kw Onan, small (new) microwave, 6-cup coffeemaker, 3 batteries (house, coach and genny), stereo and 12v & 110v lights, plus the standard cellphone/laptop/iPod chargers.
                  >
                  > Leeann
                  > '73 Concord 20' Class A
                  > Dodge RM300 chassis, 440/727
                  >
                  > Got mine at RVpartsoutlet. They have the PD-9245C here: http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/product_info.php?cPath=841_83&products_id=8805
                  >
                  > And specs here: http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/rv_conv/rv_converter_pd9245c_2.html
                  >
                  > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Matthew Hudson <antispam@> wrote:
                  > > I spoke with a service manager at one RV place, and he told me a 45amp
                  > > converter would be about all I would need in my RV.
                  >
                • Matthew Hudson
                  I have a dodge 440, and the rear main is leaking. I bought the bearing and it is a two piece unit, and the oil pan looks like it is easy to remove, so the
                  Message 8 of 17 , Mar 23, 2010
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                    I have a dodge 440, and the rear main is leaking. I bought the bearing
                    and it is a two piece unit, and the oil pan looks like it is easy to
                    remove, so the question is... is it easy to replace? What do I have to
                    watch out for?

                    Dodge Titan,
                    Mopar 440
                    1979 Dodge chassis.

                    Thanks in advance!
                  • Matthew Hudson
                    Sorry, I meant rear main seal. It s been a long day folks.
                    Message 9 of 17 , Mar 23, 2010
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                      Sorry, I meant rear main seal. It's been a long day folks.

                      On 3/23/2010 10:25 PM, Matthew Hudson wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      > I have a dodge 440, and the rear main is leaking. I bought the bearing
                      > and it is a two piece unit, and the oil pan looks like it is easy to
                      > remove, so the question is... is it easy to replace? What do I have to
                      > watch out for?
                      >
                      > Dodge Titan,
                      > Mopar 440
                      > 1979 Dodge chassis.
                      >
                      > Thanks in advance!
                      >
                    • Henry Blair Jr.
                      This is easy to do if you have done it before. I had a steep learning curve and paid a mechanic $50 to do it for me. He may have taken 15 minutes to do it
                      Message 10 of 17 , Mar 23, 2010
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                        This is easy to do if you have done it before. I had a steep learning curve
                        and paid a mechanic $50 to do it for me. He may have taken 15 minutes to do
                        it since I had the oil pan off when he came. I would pay hime $50 to do it
                        the next time.

                        Henry

                        Henry K. Blair, Jr.
                        4365 Butternut Way
                        Roswell, GA 30075-5225
                        (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
                        henryblairjr@...


                        On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 10:26 PM, Matthew Hudson <antispam@...>wrote:

                        >
                        >
                        > Sorry, I meant rear main seal. It's been a long day folks.
                        >
                        > On 3/23/2010 10:25 PM, Matthew Hudson wrote:
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > I have a dodge 440, and the rear main is leaking. I bought the bearing
                        > > and it is a two piece unit, and the oil pan looks like it is easy to
                        > > remove, so the question is... is it easy to replace? What do I have to
                        > > watch out for?
                        > >
                        > > Dodge Titan,
                        > > Mopar 440
                        > > 1979 Dodge chassis.
                        > >
                        > > Thanks in advance!
                        > >
                        >
                        >


                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • james
                        OK.... what you have in your hands are two semicircles made of very stiff rubber. You need to get the oil pan way down, (preferably off if you can.) you will
                        Message 11 of 17 , Mar 24, 2010
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                          OK.... what you have in your hands are two semicircles made of very stiff rubber.

                          You need to get the oil pan way down, (preferably off if you can.)

                          you will need a torque wrench.

                          Get the oil pan out of the way....

                          Once you start, you are pretty much committed.
                          loosen the bolts on the mains, for at least the rear and hopefully if you have room, the second set.
                          This will drop the crank a little to make life easier.
                          Now you can take the rear main out completely, looking up at the block you will see 1/2 of the old seal there....the ends.

                          take a small screwdriver, or punch ,and push on the end, the other end should start to come out. You might have to wobble it back and forth a bit to get it out easily.
                          It WILL be tight, you can loosen the mains bolts, but, not too much as you dont want to disturb the bearings there, especially if something rotates!

                          With the old upper half out,

                          put some slickem' .... oil,silicon,grease, or something on the upper half of the new seal.

                          and guide it into the "slot" where the old one was. Be gentle,yet firm, and dont bend it!
                          Again you might have to push/pull/wobble to get it in.

                          Make sure both ends are flush.
                          Install the other end into the rear main casting....lube it up...

                          reinstall the rear main, and re-torque the main cap bolts as the manufacturer recommends.

                          Put the pan back on, put some (thin) oil in it and try it out.


                          If you can get this job done for $40 it is a bargain.
                          Some are a pain-in-the- when the engine is out and on a stand!

                          jim
                        • SkipC
                          ... Don t Forget, the lip goes to the front or towards what you want to keep in. Skip
                          Message 12 of 17 , Mar 24, 2010
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                            --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Matthew Hudson <antispam@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Sorry, I meant rear main seal. It's been a long day folks.

                            Don't Forget, the lip goes to the front or towards what you want to keep in.

                            Skip
                          • Warren
                            The seal is what is leaking. I don t know if the bearing and seal are the same part or not. But from what little I know about engines in general. When the rear
                            Message 13 of 17 , Mar 24, 2010
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                              The seal is what is leaking. I don't know if the bearing and seal are the
                              same part or not.

                              But from what little I know about engines in general. When the rear or front
                              main is leaking. That is one major undertaking to get to it and replace the
                              seal.

                              An old Dodge engine mechanic (Hope one is on this group) would know more
                              about that than I.


                              --
                              Warren
                              1989 GMC R2500 HD Suburban.
                              1953 Airstream Cruiser Travel trailer (The Runaway Sue)
                              Western KY

                              On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Matthew Hudson <antispam@...>wrote:

                              >
                              >
                              > I have a dodge 440, and the rear main is leaking. I bought the bearing
                              > and it is a two piece unit, and the oil pan looks like it is easy to
                              > remove, so the question is... is it easy to replace? What do I have to
                              > watch out for?
                              >
                              > Dodge Titan,
                              > Mopar 440
                              > 1979 Dodge chassis.
                              >
                              > Thanks in advance!
                              >


                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • Matthew Hudson
                              Thanks Jim. I m going to try it this weekend, and if I can, I ll do pictures and a play by play for the files section.
                              Message 14 of 17 , Mar 24, 2010
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                                Thanks Jim. I'm going to try it this weekend, and if I can, I'll do
                                pictures and a play by play for the files section.

                                On 3/24/2010 6:59 AM, james wrote:
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > OK.... what you have in your hands are two semicircles made of very
                                > stiff rubber.
                                >
                                > You need to get the oil pan way down, (preferably off if you can.)
                                >
                                > you will need a torque wrench.
                                >
                                > Get the oil pan out of the way....
                                >
                                > Once you start, you are pretty much committed.
                                > loosen the bolts on the mains, for at least the rear and hopefully if
                                > you have room, the second set.
                                > This will drop the crank a little to make life easier.
                                > Now you can take the rear main out completely, looking up at the block
                                > you will see 1/2 of the old seal there....the ends.
                                >
                                > take a small screwdriver, or punch ,and push on the end, the other end
                                > should start to come out. You might have to wobble it back and forth a
                                > bit to get it out easily.
                                > It WILL be tight, you can loosen the mains bolts, but, not too much as
                                > you dont want to disturb the bearings there, especially if something
                                > rotates!
                                >
                                > With the old upper half out,
                                >
                                > put some slickem' .... oil,silicon,grease, or something on the upper
                                > half of the new seal.
                                >
                                > and guide it into the "slot" where the old one was. Be gentle,yet firm,
                                > and dont bend it!
                                > Again you might have to push/pull/wobble to get it in.
                                >
                                > Make sure both ends are flush.
                                > Install the other end into the rear main casting....lube it up...
                                >
                                > reinstall the rear main, and re-torque the main cap bolts as the
                                > manufacturer recommends.
                                >
                                > Put the pan back on, put some (thin) oil in it and try it out.
                                >
                                > If you can get this job done for $40 it is a bargain.
                                > Some are a pain-in-the- when the engine is out and on a stand!
                                >
                                > jim
                                >
                                >
                              • Ted Kroll
                                What really helps is when U go to put the new seal back in if U have STP or engine/cam assembly lube it makes it really slippery, and that helps! ... From:
                                Message 15 of 17 , Mar 24, 2010
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                                  What really helps is when U go to put the new seal back in if U have STP or
                                  engine/cam assembly lube it makes it really slippery, and that helps!

                                  -----Original Message-----
                                  From: classicrv@yahoogroups.com [mailto:classicrv@yahoogroups.com]On
                                  Behalf Of Matthew Hudson
                                  Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:05 AM
                                  To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
                                  Subject: Re: [classicrv] Re: CORRECTION: Question about a Dodge 440 rear
                                  main SEAL


                                  Thanks Jim. I'm going to try it this weekend, and if I can, I'll do
                                  pictures and a play by play for the files section.

                                  On 3/24/2010 6:59 AM, james wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > OK.... what you have in your hands are two semicircles made of very
                                  > stiff rubber.
                                  >
                                  > You need to get the oil pan way down, (preferably off if you can.)
                                  >
                                  > you will need a torque wrench.
                                  >
                                  > Get the oil pan out of the way....
                                  >
                                  > Once you start, you are pretty much committed.
                                  > loosen the bolts on the mains, for at least the rear and hopefully if
                                  > you have room, the second set.
                                  > This will drop the crank a little to make life easier.
                                  > Now you can take the rear main out completely, looking up at the block
                                  > you will see 1/2 of the old seal there....the ends.
                                  >
                                  > take a small screwdriver, or punch ,and push on the end, the other end
                                  > should start to come out. You might have to wobble it back and forth a
                                  > bit to get it out easily.
                                  > It WILL be tight, you can loosen the mains bolts, but, not too much as
                                  > you dont want to disturb the bearings there, especially if something
                                  > rotates!
                                  >
                                  > With the old upper half out,
                                  >
                                  > put some slickem' .... oil,silicon,grease, or something on the upper
                                  > half of the new seal.
                                  >
                                  > and guide it into the "slot" where the old one was. Be gentle,yet firm,
                                  > and dont bend it!
                                  > Again you might have to push/pull/wobble to get it in.
                                  >
                                  > Make sure both ends are flush.
                                  > Install the other end into the rear main casting....lube it up...
                                  >
                                  > reinstall the rear main, and re-torque the main cap bolts as the
                                  > manufacturer recommends.
                                  >
                                  > Put the pan back on, put some (thin) oil in it and try it out.
                                  >
                                  > If you can get this job done for $40 it is a bargain.
                                  > Some are a pain-in-the- when the engine is out and on a stand!
                                  >
                                  > jim
                                  >
                                  >


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                                  14:33:00
                                • denisond3d3
                                  wrote: ....the rear or front ... ** Maybe my 413 was different (though it used the exact same seal as the 440 s did, and the pan and block
                                  Message 16 of 17 , Mar 24, 2010
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                                    <wncol2004@...> wrote: "....the rear or front
                                    > main is leaking. That is one major undertaking to get to it and replace the seal."
                                    ** Maybe my 413 was different (though it used the exact same seal as the 440's did, and the pan and block were the same too,)but...the two bolts holding the seal retainer up into the rear wall of the block require a socket with the same number of 'splines' as the heads of the bolts. They were not hex headed bolts, they had 12 splines. So I had to use a 12 point wrench to fit over it. I forget if it was 7/16" or 3/8".
                                    I bought the original type of seal; the type that is two pieces of mineral fiber rope saturated with graphite. I only replaced the bottom half, since that is where most of the wear happens. The tricky part was where the seal retainer fit back up into the block. It slid up into an opening with parallel sides. To keep oil from spattering out between the block and the seal retainer, there were two rubber strips that had to be fit in -sliding up along with the seal retainer-. There wasnt any easy way to ensure they really slid up there, rather than just mushing around and leaving a gap.
                                    I also replaced the front main seal, when I had the radiator out for cleaning/recoring. You have to remove the water pump and its housing (a big casting) to get at the timing cover, and you need a large socket to unscrew the bolt holding the vibration damper onto the end of the crankshaft. I can tell you my mopar big block had worn out seals (due to being over 25 years old), but at 100,000 miles, the timing chain wasnt worn much at all.
                                    After the repair, the bottom of the engine stayed clean. I had painted the oil pan when it was off - and a few years later it is still glossy black, with no oil coming from the rear main.

                                    The seals on the 727 tranny need replacement now - just due to age.
                                  • Matthew Hudson
                                    Thanks for that. It looks like there are three different types of seals that are available for that engine. A simple set with a tube of black RTV, a set that
                                    Message 17 of 17 , Mar 24, 2010
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                                      Thanks for that. It looks like there are three different types of seals
                                      that are available for that engine. A simple set with a tube of black
                                      RTV, a set that does not use the RTV, and a rope seal that is no longer
                                      made for general consumption. I'm going to inquire at a speed shop in
                                      the AM about one from them, or at least the simpler to install seal. As
                                      I've said, I plan to take pictures of the process and post them after
                                      the event. (hope my old camera still works)

                                      On 3/24/2010 10:39 PM, denisond3d3 wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > <wncol2004@...> wrote: "....the rear or front
                                      > > main is leaking. That is one major undertaking to get to it and
                                      > replace the seal."
                                      > ** Maybe my 413 was different (though it used the exact same seal as the
                                      > 440's did, and the pan and block were the same too,)but...the two bolts
                                      > holding the seal retainer up into the rear wall of the block require a
                                      > socket with the same number of 'splines' as the heads of the bolts. They
                                      > were not hex headed bolts, they had 12 splines. So I had to use a 12
                                      > point wrench to fit over it. I forget if it was 7/16" or 3/8".
                                      > I bought the original type of seal; the type that is two pieces of
                                      > mineral fiber rope saturated with graphite. I only replaced the bottom
                                      > half, since that is where most of the wear happens. The tricky part was
                                      > where the seal retainer fit back up into the block. It slid up into an
                                      > opening with parallel sides. To keep oil from spattering out between the
                                      > block and the seal retainer, there were two rubber strips that had to be
                                      > fit in -sliding up along with the seal retainer-. There wasnt any easy
                                      > way to ensure they really slid up there, rather than just mushing around
                                      > and leaving a gap.
                                      > I also replaced the front main seal, when I had the radiator out for
                                      > cleaning/recoring. You have to remove the water pump and its housing (a
                                      > big casting) to get at the timing cover, and you need a large socket to
                                      > unscrew the bolt holding the vibration damper onto the end of the
                                      > crankshaft. I can tell you my mopar big block had worn out seals (due to
                                      > being over 25 years old), but at 100,000 miles, the timing chain wasnt
                                      > worn much at all.
                                      > After the repair, the bottom of the engine stayed clean. I had painted
                                      > the oil pan when it was off - and a few years later it is still glossy
                                      > black, with no oil coming from the rear main.
                                      >
                                      > The seals on the 727 tranny need replacement now - just due to age.
                                      >
                                      >
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