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For Sale: 1974 Ungers Crown Commander Motor Home

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  • jrhendrsn
    $3500. The coach is located in Massillon, Ohio. I have owned it for 5 years and it has been driven regularly, not sitting around. It has a Dodge 440/3 with
    Message 1 of 28 , May 8, 2007
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      $3500.

      The coach is located in Massillon, Ohio. I have owned it for 5 years and
      it has been driven regularly, not sitting around. It has a Dodge 440/3
      with the 727 transmission. It runs great and all the appliances work.
      The exterior of the coach is made of one piece of fiberglass.
      Underneath the fiberglass are steel supports. The floor is insulated.
      This is a well constructed motor home and should give the new owner
      great service. I know I had a wonderful time with it.

      Lots of Pictures and details are on my website at www.jhenderson.net
      <http://www.jhenderson.net> so I won't post them here.

      Thanks for your time and take a look at the pictures even if you are not
      interested in purchasing. You probably haven't seen a motor home that
      looks like this!!



      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • bob dobalina
      I have several supierior coaches from 70-73 and I am considering flying up there to get it please email me at sunshineisgreat@yahoo.com Thanks in advance!!!
      Message 2 of 28 , May 8, 2007
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        I have several supierior coaches from 70-73 and I am considering flying up there to get it please email me at sunshineisgreat@...
        Thanks in advance!!!


        jrhendrsn <jrh@...> wrote: $3500.

        The coach is located in Massillon, Ohio. I have owned it for 5 years and
        it has been driven regularly, not sitting around. It has a Dodge 440/3
        with the 727 transmission. It runs great and all the appliances work.
        The exterior of the coach is made of one piece of fiberglass.
        Underneath the fiberglass are steel supports. The floor is insulated.
        This is a well constructed motor home and should give the new owner
        great service. I know I had a wonderful time with it.

        Lots of Pictures and details are on my website at www.jhenderson.net
        <http://www.jhenderson.net> so I won't post them here.

        Thanks for your time and take a look at the pictures even if you are not
        interested in purchasing. You probably haven't seen a motor home that
        looks like this!!

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Michael VanPelt
        Neat vehicle! =========================================== Mike VanPelt Director of Bands & Orchestras Riverside University High School 1615 E Locust St.
        Message 3 of 28 , May 9, 2007
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          Neat vehicle!





          ===========================================



          Mike VanPelt

          Director of Bands & Orchestras

          Riverside University High School

          1615 E Locust St.

          Milwaukee, WI 53211

          414-906-5035 (o)

          414-304-1273 (h)

          414-507-1408 (c)

          414-906-4915 (FAX)

          mvp1114@...

          vanpemr@...



          _____

          From: classicrv@yahoogroups.com [mailto:classicrv@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
          Of jrhendrsn
          Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:24 PM
          To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [classicrv] For Sale: 1974 Ungers Crown Commander Motor Home



          $3500.

          The coach is located in Massillon, Ohio. I have owned it for 5 years and
          it has been driven regularly, not sitting around. It has a Dodge 440/3
          with the 727 transmission. It runs great and all the appliances work.
          The exterior of the coach is made of one piece of fiberglass.
          Underneath the fiberglass are steel supports. The floor is insulated.
          This is a well constructed motor home and should give the new owner
          great service. I know I had a wonderful time with it.

          Lots of Pictures and details are on my website at www.jhenderson.net
          <http://www.jhenders <http://www.jhenderson.net> on.net> so I won't post
          them here.

          Thanks for your time and take a look at the pictures even if you are not
          interested in purchasing. You probably haven't seen a motor home that
          looks like this!!

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Wesley Furr
          Ouch... I m no auto expert, but that sounds pretty darn steep to me. I had the head gasket replaced in my 92 Caravan a few years ago, and with like 18 hours
          Message 4 of 28 , May 26, 2007
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            Ouch... I'm no auto expert, but that sounds pretty darn steep to me. I had
            the head gasket replaced in my 92 Caravan a few years ago, and with like 18
            hours of labor, it came in just under $1000. I have trouble believing it
            would be that much more to do a slightly larger van with 2 more cylinders in
            the engine... Might be worth checking around? You might also look for a
            Ford forum - your motor home shouldn't be any different on the engine side
            than than a plain E350 van.

            Vans are no fun to work on. I learned to drive in a 79 Ford van with a 351W
            in it. I still miss the old van... I remember dad talking about changing
            the spark plugs in it once...one of them required going in over the wheel
            well with 3 extensions to get to it!

            Good luck!

            Wesley


            -----Original Message-----
            From: classicrv@yahoogroups.com [mailto:classicrv@yahoogroups.com]On
            Behalf Of gmfoster@...
            Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 6:14 PM
            To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: [classicrv] Ford Heads


            Hello

            Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350. This is a 1988
            with a
            351W engine.

            The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I can see
            spending on
            this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van that has
            so little room
            to work.

            Any sites showing a photo log of the work..

            Thanks
            Garry
          • Scott Williams
            I expect the quote is so high because of all the work it takes to remove everything to get at the engine to be able to pull the fuel injection and ignition,
            Message 5 of 28 , May 26, 2007
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              I expect the quote is so high because of all the work it takes to remove
              everything to get at the engine to be able to pull the fuel injection
              and ignition, the intake, the exhaust, and then the heads. That's a big
              job, and time is money. What are shops getting these days, $75/hr?
              More? Also, a lower quote from another shop wouldn't necessarily mean a
              lower bill after the job is done. I've gone with the lower estimate
              before, and the bill ended up higher than the "better" shop's higher
              estimate. With heads, it only takes a few broken exhaust manifold bolts
              to really affect the cost of the job.

              If it were me, I'd read the service manual and see what it says, then
              I'd probably pull the heads and take them in to a good automotive
              machine shop for the head work. That or find another engine and swap it
              in there, what's a good low-mileage 351W go for these days? Still a lot
              of work, just a different way to get to a good running truck.

              By the way, I have a 1998 E350, which has the same problem with access
              to the engine. Whether from the front or from inside, nothing is very
              easy to get to, the dash and all that just covers too much of the engine.

              If you don't have a repair manual, I recommend you go to half.com and
              check what they've got, I just checked and saw a Chiltons and a Haynes,
              each for $.75 + shipping, which I think is $3.25 each. Search for
              0801978416 and 1563920298 (these are the ISBNs for these two books.)

              Good luck with whatever you decide.

              Scott in Penfield NY




              gmfoster@... wrote:
              > Hello
              >
              > Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350. This is a 1988 with a
              > 351W engine.
              >
              > The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I can see spending on
              > this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van that has so little room
              > to work.
              >
              > Any sites showing a photo log of the work..
              >
              > Thanks
              > Garry
            • Robert Johnston
              First I d go to a Pep Boys or similar auto parts store and buy a Chilton Manual for your year. They generally cover a period in which that engine was used.
              Message 6 of 28 , May 27, 2007
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                First I'd go to a Pep Boys or similar auto parts store and buy a Chilton Manual for your year. They generally cover a period in which that engine was used. They will have a step by step description of how to repair many different things...

                Every time that I have purchased a vehicle, Ive bought a Chilton manual.

                Then if possible, check with local schools for courses in Automotive Maintaince and Repair... Many of them are looking for projects for the students to do that they can learn on. The Instructor supervises each step and checks them after it is done to make sure it is done correctly. Ive even had them install an entire engine and injectors, etc in my 280Z a few years back. It cost me $150 for a used engine out of a Z with 35,000 miles on it. Installation cost me $100 including a new rebuilt clutch.

                If living in the area many times an adult education class in Automotive Maintainance is well worth taking, to really learn how to do all yourself. There are also welding, carpentry, and many classes, and the only cost in some states is for tools, and a small fee to help pay the instructors. Ive completed many classes over the years once or twice a week for 2-3 hour. In CA at JR Colleges there are courses you can take for most anything you could imagine.



                Wesley Furr <wesley@...> wrote: Ouch... I'm no auto expert, but that sounds pretty darn steep to me. I had
                the head gasket replaced in my 92 Caravan a few years ago, and with like 18
                hours of labor, it came in just under $1000. I have trouble believing it
                would be that much more to do a slightly larger van with 2 more cylinders in
                the engine... Might be worth checking around? You might also look for a
                Ford forum - your motor home shouldn't be any different on the engine side
                than than a plain E350 van.

                Vans are no fun to work on. I learned to drive in a 79 Ford van with a 351W
                in it. I still miss the old van... I remember dad talking about changing
                the spark plugs in it once...one of them required going in over the wheel
                well with 3 extensions to get to it!

                Good luck!

                Wesley

                -----Original Message-----
                From: classicrv@yahoogroups.com [mailto:classicrv@yahoogroups.com]On
                Behalf Of gmfoster@...
                Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 6:14 PM
                To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [classicrv] Ford Heads

                Hello

                Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350. This is a 1988
                with a
                351W engine.

                The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I can see
                spending on
                this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van that has
                so little room
                to work.

                Any sites showing a photo log of the work..

                Thanks
                Garry
                ---------------------------------------------


                __




                Bob & Nadine,
                1984 Allegro 26 feet,
                Living Life With a "Golden Age Passport"
                and Thousand Trails Membership, Priceless!
                5th Regimental Combat Team, Korea
                ..... FREEDOM IS NOT FREE .....
                --- Three Grandchildren serve in Iraq ---

                ---------------------------------
                Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Robert Johnston
                $1000 for 18 Hour jobs I can t do sounds cheap to me. Depends on what state or even city you are in, in many charges of $100-110 per hour for labor on RV s is
                Message 7 of 28 , May 27, 2007
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                  $1000 for 18 Hour jobs I can't do sounds cheap to me.

                  Depends on what state or even city you are in, in many charges of $100-110 per hour for labor on RV's is common. For 18 hours of labor thats $1800 in some truck garages. BUT, it can be done for less the person who wrote it found out. It would be good to know who to call in different Cities if we need help.

                  I had a Brake Job, which involved replacing both front rotors, and took part of two days of labor on 1984 RV. in Frisco Tire & Service in Frisco, CO, for $1200 including Parts and Labor... was amazed at the price.

                  They worked on it a good deal of SAT & SUN, when more than a dozen other garages had refused to even look at it until the following WED. They worked between other jobs on Sat, and had a Mechanic come in on Sunday from 7am till noon to get me on the road, so we could make it to my Grand Daughters Wedding so I figured double time at least.

                  It was the AAA garage in Frisco CO, and they had to work in the driveway as they could not get it in the door. They also let us plug into their power, so we sat and watched Satellite TV most of the time, could cook etc...Id go back there anytime!

                  Is there a list here of places that do extraordinary work, for a very reasonable price... It might pay to create one, for jobs we cant do. Places that went out of their way, to do a job, and did it without charging double or more.

                  We don't mind paying what it is worth, but don't want to get ripped off.




                  Bob & Nadine,
                  1984 Allegro 26 feet,
                  Living Life With a "Golden Age Passport"
                  and Thousand Trails Membership, Priceless!
                  5th Regimental Combat Team, Korea
                  ..... FREEDOM IS NOT FREE .....
                  --- Three Grandchildren serve in Iraq ---

                  ---------------------------------
                  Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
                  Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • gmfoster2000
                  Scott Thanks. I have the repair manual, actually both of them and the shop CD. However none of them really give much detail on the how to get to things.
                  Message 8 of 28 , May 27, 2007
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                    Scott

                    Thanks. I have the repair manual, actually both of them and the shop
                    CD. However none of them really give much detail on the how to get to
                    things. Actually you can get a set of rebuilt heads for 300.00 with no
                    core charge. I can't get the vehicle off the street to work on it and
                    right now I have a broken wrist so it will be a while before I could
                    attempt the job. And of course when I get in there it could be in the
                    block.

                    I understand it a lot of work but that is 20 hours labor to r&r the
                    heads. Seems excessive to me. Was Also quoted 3800 for an engine swap....

                    I was just looking for someone that had axtually performed this work.
                    Garry




                    --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Scott Williams <swillia5@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > I expect the quote is so high because of all the work it takes to
                    remove
                    > everything to get at the engine to be able to pull the fuel injection
                    > and ignition, the intake, the exhaust, and then the heads. That's a
                    big
                    > job, and time is money. What are shops getting these days, $75/hr?
                    > More? Also, a lower quote from another shop wouldn't necessarily
                    mean a
                    > lower bill after the job is done. I've gone with the lower estimate
                    > before, and the bill ended up higher than the "better" shop's higher
                    > estimate. With heads, it only takes a few broken exhaust manifold
                    bolts
                    > to really affect the cost of the job.
                    >
                    > If it were me, I'd read the service manual and see what it says, then
                    > I'd probably pull the heads and take them in to a good automotive
                    > machine shop for the head work. That or find another engine and
                    swap it
                    > in there, what's a good low-mileage 351W go for these days? Still a
                    lot
                    > of work, just a different way to get to a good running truck.
                    >
                    > By the way, I have a 1998 E350, which has the same problem with access
                    > to the engine. Whether from the front or from inside, nothing is very
                    > easy to get to, the dash and all that just covers too much of the
                    engine.
                    >
                    > If you don't have a repair manual, I recommend you go to half.com and
                    > check what they've got, I just checked and saw a Chiltons and a Haynes,
                    > each for $.75 + shipping, which I think is $3.25 each. Search for
                    > 0801978416 and 1563920298 (these are the ISBNs for these two books.)
                    >
                    > Good luck with whatever you decide.
                    >
                    > Scott in Penfield NY
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > gmfoster@... wrote:
                    > > Hello
                    > >
                    > > Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350. This
                    is a 1988 with a
                    > > 351W engine.
                    > >
                    > > The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I
                    can see spending on
                    > > this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van
                    that has so little room
                    > > to work.
                    > >
                    > > Any sites showing a photo log of the work..
                    > >
                    > > Thanks
                    > > Garry
                    >
                  • Jon Bush Sr.
                    Garry, A couple of years ago, I replaced a 460 engine in my 89 E350. I had 2 quotes, both were around $1200, LABOR ONLY. The engine and tranny were removed and
                    Message 9 of 28 , May 27, 2007
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                      Garry,
                      A couple of years ago, I replaced a 460 engine in my 89 E350. I had 2
                      quotes, both were around $1200, LABOR ONLY. The engine and tranny
                      were removed and reinstalled.
                      Jon
                      --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, gmfoster@... wrote:
                      >
                      > Hello
                      >
                      > Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350. This
                      is a 1988 with a
                      > 351W engine.
                      >
                      > The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I
                      can see spending on
                      > this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van
                      that has so little room
                      > to work.
                      >
                      > Any sites showing a photo log of the work..
                      >
                      > Thanks
                      > Garry
                      >
                    • Jon Bush Sr.
                      ... I forgot to mention that total cost with a remanufactured engine and 5yr/50,000 mile warranty was a little over $4,000. Jon ... 2 ... This
                      Message 10 of 28 , May 27, 2007
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                        --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Bush Sr." <jonbushsr@...>
                        wrote:
                        >Garry,
                        I forgot to mention that total cost with a remanufactured engine and
                        5yr/50,000 mile warranty was a little over $4,000.

                        Jon


                        > Garry,
                        > A couple of years ago, I replaced a 460 engine in my 89 E350. I had
                        2
                        > quotes, both were around $1200, LABOR ONLY. The engine and tranny
                        > were removed and reinstalled.
                        > Jon
                        > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, gmfoster@ wrote:
                        > >
                        > > Hello
                        > >
                        > > Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350.
                        This
                        > is a 1988 with a
                        > > 351W engine.
                        > >
                        > > The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I
                        > can see spending on
                        > > this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van
                        > that has so little room
                        > > to work.
                        > >
                        > > Any sites showing a photo log of the work..
                        > >
                        > > Thanks
                        > > Garry
                        > >
                        >
                      • Henry Blair Jr.
                        In Atlanta, there is one great place to have RV suspension work done, Big Moe Spring & Alignment of Atlanta. They usually do good work, but screwed up the
                        Message 11 of 28 , May 27, 2007
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                          In Atlanta, there is one great place to have RV suspension work done, Big
                          Moe Spring & Alignment of Atlanta. They usually do good work, but screwed
                          up the mounting of the four rear tires on my motor home and caused them to
                          loose air and blow out, doing damage to my left rear wheel well. I called
                          them and faxed them the bills that I had. They paid over $1,300 for 4 new
                          tires and the wheel well repair, and never actually saw the damage. They
                          stand behind their work and really felt bad that their screw up had caused
                          me problems on a vacation to Louisiana.

                          Henry

                          On 5/27/07, Robert Johnston <e_5th_rct@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > $1000 for 18 Hour jobs I can't do sounds cheap to me.
                          >
                          > Depends on what state or even city you are in, in many charges of $100-110
                          > per hour for labor on RV's is common. For 18 hours of labor thats $1800 in
                          > some truck garages. BUT, it can be done for less the person who wrote it
                          > found out. It would be good to know who to call in different Cities if we
                          > need help.
                          >
                          > I had a Brake Job, which involved replacing both front rotors, and took
                          > part of two days of labor on 1984 RV. in Frisco Tire & Service in Frisco,
                          > CO, for $1200 including Parts and Labor... was amazed at the price.
                          >
                          > They worked on it a good deal of SAT & SUN, when more than a dozen other
                          > garages had refused to even look at it until the following WED. They worked
                          > between other jobs on Sat, and had a Mechanic come in on Sunday from 7am
                          > till noon to get me on the road, so we could make it to my Grand Daughters
                          > Wedding so I figured double time at least.
                          >
                          > It was the AAA garage in Frisco CO, and they had to work in the driveway
                          > as they could not get it in the door. They also let us plug into their
                          > power, so we sat and watched Satellite TV most of the time, could cook
                          > etc...Id go back there anytime!
                          >
                          > Is there a list here of places that do extraordinary work, for a very
                          > reasonable price... It might pay to create one, for jobs we cant do. Places
                          > that went out of their way, to do a job, and did it without charging double
                          > or more.
                          >
                          > We don't mind paying what it is worth, but don't want to get ripped off.
                          >
                          > Bob & Nadine,
                          > 1984 Allegro 26 feet,
                          > Living Life With a "Golden Age Passport"
                          > and Thousand Trails Membership, Priceless!
                          > 5th Regimental Combat Team, Korea
                          > ..... FREEDOM IS NOT FREE .....
                          > --- Three Grandchildren serve in Iraq ---
                          >
                          > ---------------------------------
                          > Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who
                          > knows.
                          > Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
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                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Richard Van Baalen
                          That works out to ~$55/hour; if that place was near me they would have ALL of my business :-) I live in central FL and the going rate here is between $89 and
                          Message 12 of 28 , May 27, 2007
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                            That works out to ~$55/hour; if that place was near me they would have ALL
                            of my business :-)



                            I live in central FL and the going rate here is between $89 and $105 per
                            hour, with the big boys (Lazy Daze, etc) charging in the order of $120/hour
                            for RV related work. I did hook up with a local commercial vehicle shop a
                            year or so ago, and they did some suspension/brake work for $79 an hour.



                            -Rich



                            > $1000 for 18 Hour jobs I can't do sounds cheap to me.
                            >
                            > Depends on what state or even city you are in, in many charges of $100-110
                            > per hour for labor on RV's is common. For 18 hours of labor thats $1800 in
                            > some truck garages. BUT, it can be done for less the person who wrote it
                            > found out. It would be good to know who to call in different Cities if we
                            > need help.
                            >
                            > I had a Brake Job, which involved replacing both front rotors, and took
                            > part of two days of labor on 1984 RV. in Frisco Tire & Service in Frisco,
                            > CO, for $1200 including Parts and Labor... was amazed at the price.
                            >
                            > They worked on it a good deal of SAT & SUN, when more than a dozen other
                            > garages had refused to even look at it until the following WED. They
                            worked
                            > between other jobs on Sat, and had a Mechanic come in on Sunday from 7am
                            > till noon to get me on the road, so we could make it to my Grand Daughters
                            > Wedding so I figured double time at least.
                            >
                            > It was the AAA garage in Frisco CO, and they had to work in the driveway
                            > as they could not get it in the door. They also let us plug into their
                            > power, so we sat and watched Satellite TV most of the time, could cook
                            > etc...Id go back there anytime!
                            >
                            > Is there a list here of places that do extraordinary work, for a very
                            > reasonable price... It might pay to create one, for jobs we cant do.
                            Places
                            > that went out of their way, to do a job, and did it without charging
                            double
                            > or more.
                            >
                            > We don't mind paying what it is worth, but don't want to get ripped off.
                            >
                            > Bob & Nadine,
                            > 1984 Allegro 26 feet,
                            > Living Life With a "Golden Age Passport"
                            > and Thousand Trails Membership, Priceless!
                            > 5th Regimental Combat Team, Korea
                            > ..... FREEDOM IS NOT FREE .....
                            > --- Three Grandchildren serve in Iraq ---
                            >
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                          • Jon Bush Sr.
                            ... Mine was done by Seattle Motor Works. I think Jasper is comparable on the East Coast. At the time, I had a membership in alldatadiy.com for my E350 and I
                            Message 13 of 28 , May 28, 2007
                            • 0 Attachment
                              --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, gmfoster@... wrote:
                              >
                              >
                              > Garry,
                              Mine was done by Seattle Motor Works. I think Jasper is comparable on
                              the East Coast. At the time, I had a membership in alldatadiy.com for
                              my E350 and I checked the Alldata flat rate manual hours for the task
                              with the quotes and they were consistant.

                              Jon Bush


                              > Jon
                              > Who was the remanafacturer on that engine?
                              >
                              > A Jasper with a 3 yr 75 k is a little over 2k my price. I am sure a
                              garage would get a
                              > price break. But there is a major source in NJ and one in MD where
                              I can get a long
                              > block for under 1500.00.
                              >
                              > I almost suspect the engine swap would be less work than the head
                              swap...
                              >
                              > Garry
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > On 27 May 2007 at 14:00, Jon Bush Sr. wrote:
                              >
                              > >
                              > > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Bush Sr." <jonbushsr@>
                              > > wrote:
                              > > >Garry,
                              > > I forgot to mention that total cost with a remanufactured engine
                              and
                              > > 5yr/50,000 mile warranty was a little over $4,000.
                              > >
                              > > Jon
                              > >
                              > > > Garry,
                              > > > A couple of years ago, I replaced a 460 engine in my 89 E350. I
                              had
                              > > 2
                              > > > quotes, both were around $1200, LABOR ONLY. The engine and
                              tranny
                              > > > were removed and reinstalled.
                              > > > Jon
                              > > > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, gmfoster@ wrote:
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Hello
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350.
                              > > This
                              > > > is a 1988 with a
                              > > > > 351W engine.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than
                              I
                              > > > can see spending on
                              > > > > this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a
                              van
                              > > > that has so little room
                              > > > > to work.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Any sites showing a photo log of the work..
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Thanks
                              > > > > Garry
                              > > > >
                              > > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              >
                            • Wesley Furr
                              I think some libraries have that sort of subscription that you can use - someone mentioned that about our local library a while back... Wesley ... Mine was
                              Message 14 of 28 , May 29, 2007
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                                I think some libraries have that sort of subscription that you can use -
                                someone mentioned that about our local library a while back...

                                Wesley



                                --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, gmfoster@... wrote:

                                > Garry,
                                Mine was done by Seattle Motor Works. I think Jasper is comparable on
                                the East Coast. At the time, I had a membership in alldatadiy.com for
                                my E350 and I checked the Alldata flat rate manual hours for the task
                                with the quotes and they were consistant.

                                Jon Bush
                              • Michael J. Kupec
                                Garry, Several have responded and I concur with them that changing the heads isn t that big of a deal. My 89 Coachmen is on a E-350 chassis and it has a 460
                                Message 15 of 28 , May 29, 2007
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                                  Garry,

                                  Several have responded and I concur with them that changing the heads isn't
                                  that big of a deal. My '89 Coachmen is on a E-350 chassis and it has a 460
                                  in it. You think there's no room with the 351W, think how much space I have
                                  with the big block!

                                  If you've done small block fords in cars, the E-350 engine compartment has
                                  the room for you to get in there and do the work. To make the task much
                                  simpler, pull the front seats and their pedistals along with the engine
                                  cover and stash them in the back of the RV, now you have the whole backside
                                  of the engine to get to. From the front, pull the batteries (if both are
                                  mounted in the front (My Coachmen is like this), the air filter box and
                                  anythng else that may get in the way. With all that out of the way, you'll
                                  see you do have lots of room. As long as the neighbors don't mind it being
                                  out on the curb in front of your house, and you're not in a big rush, just
                                  let the hand heal, take you time and do the job yourself.

                                  FWIW: I didn't do exactly the same thing, but I did pull everything out from
                                  the front of the enging compartment in order to upgrade the cheezy 85 amp 2G
                                  alternator to a 140 amp 3G and a dual battery diode pack so the alternator
                                  could charge both batteries while on the road. Doing a similar alternatir
                                  swap on my 65 Mustang and my 70 Bronco (which has a 351W in it), both took a
                                  day each to do, but on the RV I spent a weeks worth of evenings, plus a
                                  weekend, planning out the changes in the wiring harness and modifying one of
                                  the alternator brackts. Only problem with the change, I lost the function of
                                  the ammeter on the dash, which I eventually plan on swapping out with a volt
                                  meter when I find one that will fit the place of the ammeter.

                                  Michael J. Kupec
                                  mkupec@...
                                  mkupec@...
                                  http://www.blueovalcorral.com

                                  God Bless America
                                  If you can't be behind our troops, then feel free to get in front of them.
                                • Jack Rabon
                                  Michael, You still might be able to use your ammeter, if it has an external shunt. Ammeters are just voltmeters which look at the voltage developed across a
                                  Message 16 of 28 , May 30, 2007
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Michael,

                                    You still might be able to use your ammeter, if it has an external shunt.
                                    Ammeters are just voltmeters which look at the voltage developed across a
                                    very low ohm resistor (the shunt). Most of these shunts look like a metal
                                    bar between the posts of the ammeter. It is possible to locate this shunt
                                    remotely from the actual meter, and just connect the posts with the former
                                    ends of the shunt.

                                    That way you can keep the look & function of your original dash. Just
                                    relocate the shunt in the line between your diode pack & the chassis
                                    battery. It will still show the charge / discharge from the chassis
                                    battery.

                                    A voltmeter is also a good idea, and you will have an easier time finding
                                    one, since it does not have to match the size & style of the ammeter.

                                    Jack

                                    -----Original Message-----

                                    Posted by: "Michael J. Kupec" mkupec@... mjkupec
                                    Date: Tue May 29, 2007 4:22 am ((PDT))

                                    FWIW: I didn't do exactly the same thing, but I did pull everything out
                                    from
                                    the front of the enging compartment in order to upgrade the cheezy 85 amp
                                    2G
                                    alternator to a 140 amp 3G and a dual battery diode pack so the alternator
                                    could charge both batteries while on the road. Doing a similar alternatir
                                    swap on my 65 Mustang and my 70 Bronco (which has a 351W in it), both took
                                    a
                                    day each to do, but on the RV I spent a weeks worth of evenings, plus a
                                    weekend, planning out the changes in the wiring harness and modifying one
                                    of
                                    the alternator brackts. Only problem with the change, I lost the function
                                    of
                                    the ammeter on the dash, which I eventually plan on swapping out with a
                                    volt
                                    meter when I find one that will fit the place of the ammeter.

                                    Michael J. Kupec
                                    mkupec@...
                                    mkupec@...
                                    http://www.blueovalcorral.com
                                  • Michael J. Kupec
                                    Yes, it does have the external shunt type ammeter; typical factory Ford gauge though, just shows charge and discharge with no amperage range. Problem is, how I
                                    Message 17 of 28 , May 30, 2007
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                                      Yes, it does have the external shunt type ammeter; typical factory Ford
                                      gauge though, just shows charge and discharge with no amperage range.
                                      Problem is, how I re-wired everything...

                                      Original wiring had the two spade lug 12 volt out connections on the 2G
                                      alternator going into the main harness which feed the whole vehicle, both
                                      are about 10 gauge and surprisingly the connectors on the 2G weren't crispy
                                      crittered like most I've seen. At this junction in the harness are main feed
                                      wires to vehicle itself and a length of 10 gauge going to the battery with
                                      16/18 gauge wires from each end that run to the meter, this I know now was
                                      the shunt setup.

                                      With the 3G, I've taken the 12 volt output from the alternator via a 2 gauge
                                      wire to the battery isolator (along with a 175 amp fuse inline in case the
                                      alternator fries itself). From the battery isolator the two outputs feed the
                                      main and aux batteries. Along with this I left in the original emergency
                                      start relay that ties the two batteries together for starting purposes. It
                                      was supposed to allow you to jump one of the batteries if one was dead with
                                      the other good battery. Using a single small diode for isolation, Coachmen
                                      had the coil of this solenoid tied into the cruise control system such that
                                      when cruise control was engaged, it also engaged this solenoid to allow the
                                      Aux battery to charge. A silly idea to me, that's why I installed the 140amp
                                      isolator. Anyway, the part of the main vehicle harness that went to the
                                      alternator, before the shunt to the battery, now goes directly to the main
                                      battery positive post.

                                      I could possibly install an insulated post somewhere on the fender by the
                                      main battery and have the 1 gauge wire from the battery isolator go there
                                      along with the feed wires to the vheicle, then figure out a length of shunt
                                      wire to go from there to the battery that will cause the gauge to deflect
                                      full scale at something like 150 amps or so. It's just that while installing
                                      all this, I had a major brain f@rt when buying all the parts for this
                                      because I had forgoten the gauge on the dash was an ammeter and not a volt
                                      meter gauge. Been spending too much time staring at the dash of the
                                      Expedition with it's simulated real gauges and so assumed the E-350 was a
                                      volt meter.

                                      BTW: those of you that have Ford based RV's that are of mid-90's and later
                                      vintage, understand that your volt, temp and oil pressure gauges really
                                      aren't functional gauges; they're more like go-no-go indicators. Ford might
                                      as well have just removed them and put in idiot lights since that's really
                                      what they are. Ever notice the oil & volt gauges both go to the same place
                                      every time the engine is running and the temp gauge has about 3 different
                                      places within it's swing it goes to? They're not analog type gauges like
                                      what early and pre mid-90's Fords have, but are just visual indicators
                                      controlled by the on board computer. Really a dumb idea...

                                      Sorry for the long rant - hope above made sense to those who were
                                      interested.

                                      Michael J. Kupec
                                      mkupec@...
                                      mkupec@...
                                      http://www.blueovalcorral.com

                                      We could certainly slow the aging process down if it had to work its way
                                      through Congress. ~ Will Rogers
                                    • Michael J. Kupec
                                      That s actually what I currently am using, but would like to either replace the ammeter gauge with a volt gauge or maybe get the original gauge working again.
                                      Message 18 of 28 , May 30, 2007
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                                        That's actually what I currently am using, but would like to either replace
                                        the ammeter gauge with a volt gauge or maybe get the original gauge working
                                        again. A voltmeter gauge is nice to have, but won't tell you much if the
                                        alternator is no longer putting out anything until you really see a change
                                        in the reading of the voltmeter. If the diode packs in the alternator start
                                        failing, you'll see it with an ammeter because you'll start showing a
                                        discharge of the battery instead of a charge.

                                        Case in point - Back when chebby went with their integrated regulator in the
                                        alternator with an idiot light on the dash, they were famous for having the
                                        regulator fail where the alternator would put out 13.8V with just enough
                                        current to keep the idiot light out. However, it was not enough to charge
                                        the battery. End result, after a couple days of driving around without the
                                        alternator charging the battery, the car wouldn't start. A voltage check
                                        with the vehicle running would show the 13.8V, but there wasn't enough
                                        current flow from the alternator to charge the battery back up. An ammeter
                                        would have shown the battery in a constant discharge, thus showing a problem
                                        with the system.

                                        Michael J. Kupec
                                        mkupec@...
                                        mkupec@...
                                        http://www.blueovalcorral.com

                                        Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get
                                        used to the idea. - Robert A. Heinlein
                                      • Jack Rabon
                                        Most interesting to see how problems were solved back when the classic coaches were made. Some Coachmen engineer must have been proud of his solution - since
                                        Message 19 of 28 , May 30, 2007
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          Most interesting to see how problems were solved back when the classic
                                          coaches were made. Some Coachmen engineer must have been proud of his
                                          solution - since by the time you could get into the position to engage
                                          cruise control, the small alternator would probably have brought the
                                          chassis battery up to full.

                                          And since cruise has a minimum speed, the small alternator would be turning
                                          fast enough to make sure it could supply all needs & have something left
                                          over to go into the coach battery.

                                          Not the way we would do things today, since a diode isolator is available &
                                          alternators are more capable today. But you can see why they did it.

                                          Your posting this might also prevent some future head scratching, as other
                                          owners dive into the slave battery solenoid circuit & wonder why it goes
                                          also to the cruise control.

                                          Jack

                                          -----Original Message-----

                                          Yes, it does have the external shunt type ammeter;
                                          < snip >
                                          Coachmen
                                          had the coil of this solenoid tied into the cruise control system such that
                                          when cruise control was engaged, it also engaged this solenoid to allow the
                                          Aux battery to charge.
                                        • Lynnie Whitefield
                                          I use a plugin digital voltmeter that uses the cigarette lighter. I don t use it all the time as I also use the lighter outlet for cell phone charger and GPS
                                          Message 20 of 28 , May 30, 2007
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            I use a plugin digital voltmeter that uses the cigarette lighter. I don't use it all the time as I also use the lighter outlet for cell phone charger and GPS charger.
                                            I notice most vehicles now use volt meters rather than amp meters as they tell you more than an amp meter.

                                            Lynnie

                                            ----- Original Message -----
                                            From: Jack Rabon
                                            To: 'classicrv@yahoogroups.com'
                                            Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 6:31 AM
                                            Subject: [classicrv] Re: Ford Heads


                                            Michael,

                                            You still might be able to use your ammeter, if it has an external shunt.
                                            Ammeters are just voltmeters which look at the voltage developed across a
                                            very low ohm resistor (the shunt). Most of these shunts look like a metal
                                            bar between the posts of the ammeter. It is possible to locate this shunt
                                            remotely from the actual meter, and just connect the posts with the former
                                            ends of the shunt.

                                            That way you can keep the look & function of your original dash. Just
                                            relocate the shunt in the line between your diode pack & the chassis
                                            battery. It will still show the charge / discharge from the chassis
                                            battery.

                                            A voltmeter is also a good idea, and you will have an easier time finding
                                            one, since it does not have to match the size & style of the ammeter.

                                            Jack

                                            -----Original Message-----

                                            Posted by: "Michael J. Kupec" mkupec@... mjkupec
                                            Date: Tue May 29, 2007 4:22 am ((PDT))

                                            FWIW: I didn't do exactly the same thing, but I did pull everything out
                                            from
                                            the front of the enging compartment in order to upgrade the cheezy 85 amp
                                            2G
                                            alternator to a 140 amp 3G and a dual battery diode pack so the alternator
                                            could charge both batteries while on the road. Doing a similar alternatir
                                            swap on my 65 Mustang and my 70 Bronco (which has a 351W in it), both took
                                            a
                                            day each to do, but on the RV I spent a weeks worth of evenings, plus a
                                            weekend, planning out the changes in the wiring harness and modifying one
                                            of
                                            the alternator brackts. Only problem with the change, I lost the function
                                            of
                                            the ammeter on the dash, which I eventually plan on swapping out with a
                                            volt
                                            meter when I find one that will fit the place of the ammeter.

                                            Michael J. Kupec
                                            mkupec@...
                                            mkupec@...
                                            http://www.blueovalcorral.com






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                                          • Michael J. Kupec
                                            Just another interesting thing to note. From the Aux battery I have a 1 guage wire running back to the coach. Ok, so I figured that was the main 12V power feed
                                            Message 21 of 28 , May 30, 2007
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                                              Just another interesting thing to note.

                                              From the Aux battery I have a 1 guage wire running back to the coach. Ok, so
                                              I figured that was the main 12V power feed to the RV's distribution panel.

                                              Well, this weekend I go to service the generator. On the Catalina model, it
                                              sets right behind the drivers seat, just under the coach. I go to pull the
                                              generator out on it's slides so I can reach the rear battery and I see that
                                              same familiar 1 guage wire. Crawling under the coach (only way to get to the
                                              inside spark plug) I see that the 1 guage wire routing up the frame to the
                                              engie compartment.

                                              So, the 1 gauge wire doesn't provide main 12v to the coach, but is for
                                              starting the generator. Kinda overkill for a 2 cylinder motor...

                                              Besides the 1 guage wire, I also have a light gauge wire (desn't even look
                                              more than 12 gauge) with a fuseable link that also heeads back to the rear
                                              of the RV. I'm now assuming that this is the power feed from the battery
                                              back to the RV's 12V system. Doesn't make sense to me, I would have thought
                                              it's be at least a 5 to 10 gauge wire for this.

                                              Next project is upgrading the crummy, noisy 6300 with a newer 7300 module. I
                                              bet I may need to do something about that lighter power feed from the aux
                                              battery to the distribution panel!

                                              If only the fixing of the RV's buckled siding would be this easy.

                                              Michael J. Kupec
                                              mkupec@...
                                              mkupec@...
                                              http://www.blueovalcorral.com

                                              "Stupidity got us into this mess, why can't it get us out?" - Will Rogers
                                            • Lynnie Whitefield
                                              Michael, I see you are with the blue oval corral, and I assume you are a Ford fan. I have had at least one Ford all during the last 54 years I have been
                                              Message 22 of 28 , May 30, 2007
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                                                Michael,

                                                I see you are with the blue oval corral, and I assume you are a Ford fan. I have had at least one Ford all during the last 54 years I have been driving and currently have 4 Fords and a Ford powered rv.

                                                You said,

                                                "A voltage check with the vehicle running would show the 13.8V, but there wasn't enough current flow from the alternator to charge the battery back up. An ammeter
                                                would have shown the battery in a constant discharge, thus showing a problem with the system."

                                                I'm certainly not trying to be critical but can understand your flustrations working with older vehicles. I have 3 mid 60's Fords as well as the 89 RV in addition to a couple late models and I try to do as much maintainence as I can.

                                                As I see it if your voltage meter is correct, you have 13.8 volts reading, the alternator is working. Current will flow until the battery reaches the potential of the alternator output. If the voltage output drops to the battery voltage it won't charge. It may not have the current capacity to keep the battery charged fully if you have a lot of accessories running, but I would think just driving around a couple of days should charge the battery enough to start.

                                                I had a older car several years ago that wouldn't start. I replaced the battery and still had the same problem. I put a amp meter in series with the battery positive post and noted there was current flowing with everything off. I pulled fuses one at a time till I found the problem circuit. It turned out to be the cigarettee lighter leaking current. Not enough to blow the fuse, as it was a high value fuse, but enough to drain the battery overnight. I disconnected the cigarette lighter and had no more problems.

                                                Is there current flowing with everything off? I would guess you have a current leak or a wiring problem somewhere.

                                                Best of luck in solving your problem.

                                                Lynnie





                                                ----- Original Message -----
                                                From: Michael J. Kupec
                                                To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
                                                Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 8:28 AM
                                                Subject: RE: [classicrv] Re: Ford Heads


                                                That's actually what I currently am using, but would like to either replace
                                                the ammeter gauge with a volt gauge or maybe get the original gauge working
                                                again. A voltmeter gauge is nice to have, but won't tell you much if the
                                                alternator is no longer putting out anything until you really see a change
                                                in the reading of the voltmeter. If the diode packs in the alternator start
                                                failing, you'll see it with an ammeter because you'll start showing a
                                                discharge of the battery instead of a charge.

                                                Case in point - Back when chebby went with their integrated regulator in the
                                                alternator with an idiot light on the dash, they were famous for having the
                                                regulator fail where the alternator would put out 13.8V with just enough
                                                current to keep the idiot light out. However, it was not enough to charge
                                                the battery. End result, after a couple days of driving around without the
                                                alternator charging the battery, the car wouldn't start. A voltage check
                                                with the vehicle running would show the 13.8V, but there wasn't enough
                                                current flow from the alternator to charge the battery back up. An ammeter
                                                would have shown the battery in a constant discharge, thus showing a problem
                                                with the system.

                                                Michael J. Kupec
                                                mkupec@...
                                                mkupec@...
                                                http://www.blueovalcorral.com

                                                Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get
                                                used to the idea. - Robert A. Heinlein






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                                                Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.3/824 - Release Date: 5/29/2007 1:01 PM


                                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                              • Michael J. Kupec
                                                Lynnie, Yes, I own both blueovalcorral.com and blueovalcorral.org domain names. I use to have a pretty nice web site set up on the .com one, then I took it
                                                Message 23 of 28 , May 30, 2007
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                                                  Lynnie,

                                                  Yes, I own both blueovalcorral.com and blueovalcorral.org domain names. I
                                                  use to have a pretty nice web site set up on the .com one, then I took it
                                                  down to convert it to a CMS based environment (Joomla! based) and just never
                                                  got things back up - kids in High School & College soaked up all my free
                                                  time. I'm now looking at other alternatives for doing the web pages.

                                                  With exception of momentarily being drawn into the dark side when we bought
                                                  a brand new 87 Lebaron (which got traded for a 90 Grand Voyager for wife's
                                                  daycare use) and finally I took possession of my mom's old 87 New Yorker,
                                                  I've owned nothing but Fords. The 89 Coachmen hosts a Ford E-350 with a 460
                                                  big block, perfect setup for pulling a 17' trailer and my 70 Bronco to
                                                  4-wheeling events, or even a whole 18' enclosed trailer full of marching
                                                  band equipment! you know that weight is back there, but the 460 just pulls
                                                  it along with very little problem. With a toad setup like that weighing in
                                                  at over 6200lbs, I use it as standard for getting RV salesmen to leave me
                                                  alone when I'm checking out new RV's. When they ask if they can help me, I
                                                  reply "Only if this rig can haul 7000lbs at 65-70 through the mountains all
                                                  day long. The smart ones realize that most won't and that I'm just window
                                                  shopping, so they go away and leave me alone.

                                                  Michael J. Kupec
                                                  mkupec@...
                                                  mkupec@...
                                                  http://www.blueovalcorral.com <http://www.blueovalcorral.com/>

                                                  "Stupidity got us into this mess, why can't it get us out?" - Will Rogers
                                                • betnden@peoplepc.com
                                                  If a person were not able to correctly read the volt meter or ammeter, he/she could be giving an incorrect result. In the past, a standard 12 volt battery that
                                                  Message 24 of 28 , May 30, 2007
                                                  • 0 Attachment
                                                    If a person were not able to correctly read the volt meter or ammeter,
                                                    he/she could be giving an incorrect result. In the past, a standard 12 volt
                                                    battery that was fully charged would read 2.2 volts per cell, or 2.2 times 6
                                                    (cells) = 13.2 volts. Any voltage above that number is charging the battery
                                                    and/or running accessories. I assume the newer lead-acid batteries are still
                                                    the same. I haven't been able to work in almost 20 years so some rules may
                                                    have changed, but the lead/acid battery stays the same.

                                                    BTW, I have 13 Fords, from 1957-1997, and one parts car. I'm not counting
                                                    the Class C Ford or the Chevy powered Mallard Class A, and a Honda trike
                                                    with a Ford rearend.

                                                    Dennis in Eastexas
                                                    "It's not Rocket Surgery"

                                                    ----- Original Message -----
                                                    From: "Lynnie Whitefield" <birdman1@...>
                                                    To: <classicrv@yahoogroups.com>
                                                    Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 1:30 PM
                                                    Subject: Re: [classicrv] Re: Ford Heads


                                                    > Michael,
                                                    >
                                                    > I see you are with the blue oval corral, and I assume you are a Ford fan.
                                                    > I have had at least one Ford all during the last 54 years I have been
                                                    > driving and currently have 4 Fords and a Ford powered rv.
                                                    >
                                                    > You said,
                                                    >
                                                    > "A voltage check with the vehicle running would show the 13.8V, but there
                                                    > wasn't enough current flow from the alternator to charge the battery back
                                                    > up. An ammeter
                                                    > would have shown the battery in a constant discharge, thus showing a
                                                    > problem with the system."
                                                    >
                                                    > I'm certainly not trying to be critical but can understand your
                                                    > flustrations working with older vehicles. I have 3 mid 60's Fords as well
                                                    > as the 89 RV in addition to a couple late models and I try to do as much
                                                    > maintainence as I can.
                                                    >
                                                    > As I see it if your voltage meter is correct, you have 13.8 volts reading,
                                                    > the alternator is working. Current will flow until the battery reaches the
                                                    > potential of the alternator output. If the voltage output drops to the
                                                    > battery voltage it won't charge. It may not have the current capacity to
                                                    > keep the battery charged fully if you have a lot of accessories running,
                                                    > but I would think just driving around a couple of days should charge the
                                                    > battery enough to start.
                                                    >
                                                    > I had a older car several years ago that wouldn't start. I replaced the
                                                    > battery and still had the same problem. I put a amp meter in series with
                                                    > the battery positive post and noted there was current flowing with
                                                    > everything off. I pulled fuses one at a time till I found the problem
                                                    > circuit. It turned out to be the cigarettee lighter leaking current. Not
                                                    > enough to blow the fuse, as it was a high value fuse, but enough to drain
                                                    > the battery overnight. I disconnected the cigarette lighter and had no
                                                    > more problems.
                                                    >
                                                    > Is there current flowing with everything off? I would guess you have a
                                                    > current leak or a wiring problem somewhere.
                                                    >
                                                    > Best of luck in solving your problem.
                                                    >
                                                    > Lynnie
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > ----- Original Message -----
                                                    > From: Michael J. Kupec
                                                    > To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
                                                    > Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 8:28 AM
                                                    > Subject: RE: [classicrv] Re: Ford Heads
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > That's actually what I currently am using, but would like to either
                                                    > replace
                                                    > the ammeter gauge with a volt gauge or maybe get the original gauge
                                                    > working
                                                    > again. A voltmeter gauge is nice to have, but won't tell you much if the
                                                    > alternator is no longer putting out anything until you really see a
                                                    > change
                                                    > in the reading of the voltmeter. If the diode packs in the alternator
                                                    > start
                                                    > failing, you'll see it with an ammeter because you'll start showing a
                                                    > discharge of the battery instead of a charge.
                                                    >
                                                    > Case in point - Back when chebby went with their integrated regulator in
                                                    > the
                                                    > alternator with an idiot light on the dash, they were famous for having
                                                    > the
                                                    > regulator fail where the alternator would put out 13.8V with just enough
                                                    > current to keep the idiot light out. However, it was not enough to charge
                                                    > the battery. End result, after a couple days of driving around without
                                                    > the
                                                    > alternator charging the battery, the car wouldn't start. A voltage check
                                                    > with the vehicle running would show the 13.8V, but there wasn't enough
                                                    > current flow from the alternator to charge the battery back up. An
                                                    > ammeter
                                                    > would have shown the battery in a constant discharge, thus showing a
                                                    > problem
                                                    > with the system.
                                                    >
                                                    > Michael J. Kupec
                                                    > mkupec@...
                                                    > mkupec@...
                                                    > http://www.blueovalcorral.com
                                                    >
                                                    > Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and
                                                    > get
                                                    > used to the idea. - Robert A. Heinlein
                                                  • gmfoster@gmail.com
                                                    Hello Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350. This is a 1988 with a 351W engine. The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more
                                                    Message 25 of 28 , May 30, 2007
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                                                      Hello

                                                      Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350. This is a 1988 with a
                                                      351W engine.

                                                      The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I can see spending on
                                                      this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van that has so little room
                                                      to work.

                                                      Any sites showing a photo log of the work..

                                                      Thanks
                                                      Garry
                                                    • gmfoster@gmail.com
                                                      Jon Who was the remanafacturer on that engine? A Jasper with a 3 yr 75 k is a little over 2k my price. I am sure a garage would get a price break. But there is
                                                      Message 26 of 28 , Jun 1, 2007
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                                                        Jon
                                                        Who was the remanafacturer on that engine?

                                                        A Jasper with a 3 yr 75 k is a little over 2k my price. I am sure a garage would get a
                                                        price break. But there is a major source in NJ and one in MD where I can get a long
                                                        block for under 1500.00.

                                                        I almost suspect the engine swap would be less work than the head swap...

                                                        Garry



                                                        On 27 May 2007 at 14:00, Jon Bush Sr. wrote:

                                                        >
                                                        > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Jon Bush Sr." <jonbushsr@...>
                                                        > wrote:
                                                        > >Garry,
                                                        > I forgot to mention that total cost with a remanufactured engine and
                                                        > 5yr/50,000 mile warranty was a little over $4,000.
                                                        >
                                                        > Jon
                                                        >
                                                        > > Garry,
                                                        > > A couple of years ago, I replaced a 460 engine in my 89 E350. I had
                                                        > 2
                                                        > > quotes, both were around $1200, LABOR ONLY. The engine and tranny
                                                        > > were removed and reinstalled.
                                                        > > Jon
                                                        > > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, gmfoster@ wrote:
                                                        > > >
                                                        > > > Hello
                                                        > > >
                                                        > > > Has anyone on the group ever pulled the heads on a Ford E350.
                                                        > This
                                                        > > is a 1988 with a
                                                        > > > 351W engine.
                                                        > > >
                                                        > > > The quote I have fir a head job is 2000.00 which is more than I
                                                        > > can see spending on
                                                        > > > this rig. I have done this type of work before but never in a van
                                                        > > that has so little room
                                                        > > > to work.
                                                        > > >
                                                        > > > Any sites showing a photo log of the work..
                                                        > > >
                                                        > > > Thanks
                                                        > > > Garry
                                                        > > >
                                                        > >
                                                        >
                                                        >
                                                      • gmfoster@gmail.com
                                                        Well its not just the price per hour but also how many hours in the job.. Garry
                                                        Message 27 of 28 , Jun 1, 2007
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                                                          Well its not just the price per hour but also how many hours in the job..

                                                          Garry

                                                          On 27 May 2007 at 13:08, Richard Van Baalen wrote:

                                                          >
                                                          > That works out to ~$55/hour; if that place was near me they would have ALL
                                                          > of my business :-)
                                                          >
                                                          > I live in central FL and the going rate here is between $89 and $105 per
                                                          > hour, with the big boys (Lazy Daze, etc) charging in the order of $120/hour
                                                          > for RV related work. I did hook up with a local commercial vehicle shop a
                                                          > year or so ago, and they did some suspension/brake work for $79 an hour.
                                                          >
                                                          > -Rich
                                                          >
                                                          > > $1000 for 18 Hour jobs I can't do sounds cheap to me.
                                                          > >
                                                          > > Depends on what state or even city you are in, in many charges of $100-110
                                                          > > per hour for labor on RV's is common. For 18 hours of labor thats $1800 in
                                                          > > some truck garages. BUT, it can be done for less the person who wrote it
                                                          > > found out. It would be good to know who to call in different Cities if we
                                                          > > need help.
                                                          > >
                                                          > > I had a Brake Job, which involved replacing both front rotors, and took
                                                          > > part of two days of labor on 1984 RV. in Frisco Tire & Service in Frisco,
                                                          > > CO, for $1200 including Parts and Labor... was amazed at the price.
                                                          > >
                                                          > > They worked on it a good deal of SAT & SUN, when more than a dozen other
                                                          > > garages had refused to even look at it until the following WED. They
                                                          > worked
                                                          > > between other jobs on Sat, and had a Mechanic come in on Sunday from 7am
                                                          > > till noon to get me on the road, so we could make it to my Grand Daughters
                                                          > > Wedding so I figured double time at least.
                                                          > >
                                                          > > It was the AAA garage in Frisco CO, and they had to work in the driveway
                                                          > > as they could not get it in the door. They also let us plug into their
                                                          > > power, so we sat and watched Satellite TV most of the time, could cook
                                                          > > etc...Id go back there anytime!
                                                          > >
                                                          > > Is there a list here of places that do extraordinary work, for a very
                                                          > > reasonable price... It might pay to create one, for jobs we cant do.
                                                          > Places
                                                          > > that went out of their way, to do a job, and did it without charging
                                                          > double
                                                          > > or more.
                                                          > >
                                                          > > We don't mind paying what it is worth, but don't want to get ripped off.
                                                          > >
                                                          > > Bob & Nadine,
                                                          > > 1984 Allegro 26 feet,
                                                          > > Living Life With a "Golden Age Passport"
                                                          > > and Thousand Trails Membership, Priceless!
                                                          > > 5th Regimental Combat Team, Korea
                                                          > > ..... FREEDOM IS NOT FREE .....
                                                          > > --- Three Grandchildren serve in Iraq ---
                                                          > >
                                                          > > ---------------------------------
                                                          > > Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who
                                                          > > knows.
                                                          > > Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                                                          > >
                                                          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                                          > >
                                                          > > Messages in this topic
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                                                        • gmfoster@gmail.com
                                                          Michael Thanks that s great information! I have been in there some as I have replaced the aux battery relay (twice). Placed a scab on the transmission kick
                                                          Message 28 of 28 , Jun 8, 2007
                                                          • 0 Attachment
                                                            Michael

                                                            Thanks that's great information! I have been in there some as I have replaced the aux
                                                            battery relay (twice). Placed a scab on the transmission kick down cable. I have a
                                                            new one I want to install when the wrist heals. I also had just replaced the fan clutch.
                                                            All the noise from it may be why I hadn't noticed the miss...

                                                            I will be pulling the heads as soon as I heal if it don't quit me on the road...

                                                            We may have to take a trip with it as it is....

                                                            Did you get the heads out by hand or use an engine hoist?

                                                            Thanks again to you and everyone else that has offered advice..
                                                            Garry


                                                            >
                                                            > Garry,
                                                            >
                                                            > Several have responded and I concur with them that changing the heads isn't
                                                            > that big of a deal. My '89 Coachmen is on a E-350 chassis and it has a 460
                                                            > in it. You think there's no room with the 351W, think how much space I have
                                                            > with the big block!
                                                            >
                                                            > If you've done small block fords in cars, the E-350 engine compartment has
                                                            > the room for you to get in there and do the work. To make the task much
                                                            > simpler, pull the front seats and their pedistals along with the engine
                                                            > cover and stash them in the back of the RV, now you have the whole backside
                                                            > of the engine to get to. From the front, pull the batteries (if both are
                                                            > mounted in the front (My Coachmen is like this), the air filter box and
                                                            > anythng else that may get in the way. With all that out of the way, you'll
                                                            > see you do have lots of room. As long as the neighbors don't mind it being
                                                            > out on the curb in front of your house, and you're not in a big rush, just
                                                            > let the hand heal, take you time and do the job yourself.
                                                            >
                                                            > FWIW: I didn't do exactly the same thing, but I did pull everything out from
                                                            > the front of the enging compartment in order to upgrade the cheezy 85 amp 2G
                                                            > alternator to a 140 amp 3G and a dual battery diode pack so the alternator
                                                            > could charge both batteries while on the road. Doing a similar alternatir
                                                            > swap on my 65 Mustang and my 70 Bronco (which has a 351W in it), both took a
                                                            > day each to do, but on the RV I spent a weeks worth of evenings, plus a
                                                            > weekend, planning out the changes in the wiring harness and modifying one of
                                                            > the alternator brackts. Only problem with the change, I lost the function of
                                                            > the ammeter on the dash, which I eventually plan on swapping out with a volt
                                                            > meter when I find one that will fit the place of the ammeter.
                                                            >
                                                            > Michael J. Kupec
                                                            > mkupec@...
                                                            > mkupec@...
                                                            > http://www.blueovalcorral.com
                                                            >
                                                            > God Bless America
                                                            > If you can't be behind our troops, then feel free to get in front of them.
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