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Re: [classicrv] Re: Squishy brakes after new installation of new tires

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  • TWC
    The best I can remember, the second invoice was for grease seals and bearings. The first invoice indicates that he did *some* seals and bearings, but when I
    Message 1 of 23 , May 3, 2007
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      The best I can remember, the second invoice was for grease seals and bearings. The first invoice indicates that he did *some* seals and bearings, but when I had to go back, he said that some had appeared to be ok at the first trip, so he didn't do them.

      Maybe someone who understands these things can look at the first invoice and see that only half the seals and bearings were done... but I can't.

      When I asked why he didn't do all the first time, he said that most people don't want to do anything beyond what's absolutely necessary and he thought they'd last a while.

      I'll try again to find that second invoice.

      Thanks,

      CJ

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Wallace O. Powelle
      To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 6:31 AM
      Subject: [classicrv] Re: Squishy brakes after new installation of new tires


      From the info you gave on the first invoice, I wouldn't say you've been cheated (depending on where your located & the labor rate). The prices on the parts seem in the ballpark for a full service shop (When you buy parts yourself you accept all related liabilities). However It would be interesting to know what the second invoice was about. I would reccomend you get a copy from him & post that info. Wallace

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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    • Ron Mitchell
      If the hoses/lines aren t cracked and/or leaking, I d bleed the brakes first. I had a similar problem (squishy/soft brakes) and bled the lines real good. I was
      Message 2 of 23 , May 3, 2007
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        If the hoses/lines aren't cracked and/or leaking, I'd bleed the
        brakes first. I had a similar problem (squishy/soft brakes) and bled
        the lines real good. I was amazed at how much air was in there. The
        brakes are hard now and working like you would expect.

        Other than that, you'll need to take it somewhere to a decent
        mechanic, which can be hard to find. Wal-Mart will usually stand
        behind their work. I'd at least talk to them. The problem was present
        immediately after they worked on the car. Good luck.

        Ron
        76 Coachmen


        At 09:41 AM 05/03/2007, you wrote:

        >The best I can remember, the second invoice was for grease seals and
        >bearings. The first invoice indicates that he did *some* seals and
        >bearings, but when I had to go back, he said that some had appeared
        >to be ok at the first trip, so he didn't do them.
        >
        >Maybe someone who understands these things can look at the first
        >invoice and see that only half the seals and bearings were done...
        >but I can't.
        >
        >When I asked why he didn't do all the first time, he said that most
        >people don't want to do anything beyond what's absolutely necessary
        >and he thought they'd last a while.
        >
        >I'll try again to find that second invoice.
        >
        >Thanks,
        >
        >CJ
        >
        >----- Original Message -----
        >From: Wallace O. Powelle
        >To: <mailto:classicrv%40yahoogroups.com>classicrv@yahoogroups.com
        >Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 6:31 AM
        >Subject: [classicrv] Re: Squishy brakes after new installation of new tires
        >
        > From the info you gave on the first invoice, I wouldn't say you've
        > been cheated (depending on where your located & the labor rate).
        > The prices on the parts seem in the ballpark for a full service
        > shop (When you buy parts yourself you accept all related
        > liabilities). However It would be interesting to know what the
        > second invoice was about. I would reccomend you get a copy from him
        > & post that info. Wallace
        >
        >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        >Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • e_5th_rct
        ... Agree with you Ron, going to Walmart means any warrentee is good anywhere in the country. Sears is another alternative that I use, if closer, and they do
        Message 3 of 23 , May 3, 2007
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          --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Ron Mitchell <rmitchel@...> wrote:
          >
          > If the hoses/lines aren't cracked and/or leaking, I'd bleed the
          > brakes first. I had a similar problem (squishy/soft brakes) and bled
          > the lines real good. I was amazed at how much air was in there. The
          > brakes are hard now and working like you would expect.
          >
          > Other than that, you'll need to take it somewhere to a decent
          > mechanic, which can be hard to find. Wal-Mart will usually stand
          > behind their work. I'd at least talk to them. The problem was present
          > immediately after they worked on the car. Good luck.
          >
          > Ron
          > 76 Coachmen
          >
          >

          Agree with you Ron, going to Walmart means any warrentee is good
          anywhere in the country. Sears is another alternative that I use, if
          closer, and they do more mechanical work. Prices vary anywhere you go
          in the country, depending on labor costs. If we could get these
          prices in a shop in CA, Id think it a fantastic bargain.

          Of course a do it yourself job will always be cheaper, but Id never
          work on my brakes, unless I had taken a course in automotive
          maintenance. Even though I have, still do not, as I dont have the
          experience a full time mechanic would have, and that is worth paying
          for...

          An alternative to do it yourself, is a local school training
          mechanics. The instructor double checks the work of students, to make
          sure the job is done right. We pay for parts, many times that is a
          wholesale price, and save the cost of labor... Its worth checking
          locally, especially if not in a hurry to get it done.
        • Warren
          I agree No Brakes = Bad News DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR!!!!This is serious!!! Take it to a qualified break shop. If it is something wal-mart did. Send them the
          Message 4 of 23 , May 3, 2007
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            I agree

            No Brakes = Bad News

            DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR!!!!This is serious!!!

            Take it to a qualified break shop. If it is something wal-mart did. Send
            them the bill but also make sure they have proof that the wal-mart mechanics
            are the ones that messed it up.

            The trained trainees at wall-mart could have nicked a brake line and leaked
            your fluid out or just really messed up when they remounted your tires.

            On 4/30/07, bobs92504 <advocate1@...> wrote:
            >
            > No Brakes = Bad News
            >
            > DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR!!!!This is serious!!!
            >
            > I can't think of anything that just putting on tires would have to
            > do with the brakes acting as you say. They should have never even
            > touched any of the brake systems componets. I suspect that they
            > damaged a brake line or brake hose somewhere along the line and all
            > your fluid is leaking out. Check the master cylinder or just look
            > on the ground for any indications of brake fluid leaking out.
            >
            > Next call the Department Manager at Wal Mart and tell him what has
            > happened, then, only if they have a certified brake mechanic on
            > duty, ask him, at their expense, to send a tow truck over to get
            > your car and repair what ever was damaged. If they don't have such a
            > mechanic in the shop, tell him that you are going to have it towed
            > to a garage with a certified brake mechanic for repairs, and that
            > you will be bringing that bill to his/her boss at Wal-Mart. Be sure
            > the mechanic that repairs your car saves any damaged parts for your
            > to keep for evidence and also writes a statement as to what damage
            > was done and what repairs were performed.
            >
            > DO NOT try to drive your car back to Wal-Mart. You already know
            > it's not safe to drive. If anything happens you may be stuck with
            > any liability that may arise if you have an accident.
            >
            > Next time you have your car worked on at Wal-Mart, just remember how
            > well they pay their employees.... You will get what they pay for,
            > nothing more, nothing less. Stick with buying TV's, Shirts and
            > underwear, but think carefully before you let any uncertified
            > mechanics work on your car, if only to chamnge tires. I prefer
            > America's Tire Company myself.
            >
            > Good Luck
            >
            > Robert in Riverside, CA
            >
            >
            >


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • TWC
            Thanks again to everyone who has been trying to help me. To Warren... and others who ve said don t drive this car.... I m not driving it, and don t plan to
            Message 5 of 23 , May 5, 2007
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              Thanks again to everyone who has been trying to help me.

              To Warren... and others who've said "don't drive" this car.... I'm not driving it, and don't plan to even drive it to a repair shop.

              That's the reason I'm asking so many questions, I can't take it to a shop for an evaluation, so I have to do all I can to choose the right shop before I let it go anywhere.

              About finding a "competent mechanic", here is an interesting-looking website:

              http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/about.html

              I've just found it, don't know a thing about it, except that he is from my home-town area, Wichita Falls, Texas, and says he grew up in the auto-repair business. He answers a lot of questions and has a lot of articles for free on his site and offers his e-book What Your Mechanic Doesn't Want You to Know for sale.

              CJ

              ----- Original Message -----
              From: Warren
              To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 3:45 PM
              Subject: Re: [classicrv] Re: Squishy brakes after new installation of new tires


              I agree

              No Brakes = Bad News

              DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR!!!!This is serious!!!

              Take it to a qualified break shop. If it is something wal-mart did. Send
              them the bill but also make sure they have proof that the wal-mart mechanics
              are the ones that messed it up.

              The trained trainees at wall-mart could have nicked a brake line and leaked
              your fluid out or just really messed up when they remounted your tires.

              On 4/30/07, bobs92504 <advocate1@...> wrote:
              >
              > No Brakes = Bad News
              >
              > DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR!!!!This is serious!!!
              >
              > I can't think of anything that just putting on tires would have to
              > do with the brakes acting as you say. They should have never even
              > touched any of the brake systems componets. I suspect that they
              > damaged a brake line or brake hose somewhere along the line and all
              > your fluid is leaking out. Check the master cylinder or just look
              > on the ground for any indications of brake fluid leaking out.
              >
              > Next call the Department Manager at Wal Mart and tell him what has
              > happened, then, only if they have a certified brake mechanic on
              > duty, ask him, at their expense, to send a tow truck over to get
              > your car and repair what ever was damaged. If they don't have such a
              > mechanic in the shop, tell him that you are going to have it towed
              > to a garage with a certified brake mechanic for repairs, and that
              > you will be bringing that bill to his/her boss at Wal-Mart. Be sure
              > the mechanic that repairs your car saves any damaged parts for your
              > to keep for evidence and also writes a statement as to what damage
              > was done and what repairs were performed.
              >
              > DO NOT try to drive your car back to Wal-Mart. You already know
              > it's not safe to drive. If anything happens you may be stuck with
              > any liability that may arise if you have an accident.
              >
              > Next time you have your car worked on at Wal-Mart, just remember how
              > well they pay their employees.... You will get what they pay for,
              > nothing more, nothing less. Stick with buying TV's, Shirts and
              > underwear, but think carefully before you let any uncertified
              > mechanics work on your car, if only to chamnge tires. I prefer
              > America's Tire Company myself.
              >
              > Good Luck
              >
              > Robert in Riverside, CA
              >
              >
              >


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              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Wesley Furr
              As part of the thorough once-over of our new trailer, I looked up the back of the fridge opening and couldn t see sunlight. Looking with a flashlight, it
              Message 6 of 23 , May 5, 2007
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                As part of the thorough once-over of our "new" trailer, I looked up the back
                of the fridge opening and couldn't see sunlight. Looking with a flashlight,
                it appears almost as though some insulation has fallen in above, etc.
                Perhaps it is ok, but rather than risk damage from insufficient airflow, I
                want to pull the fridge and take a closer look. Plus a good chance to clean
                the flue and make sure everything is in good shape.

                Problem is, I can't seem to figure out how it is held in from the front.
                Looks like it has some screws around the edge on the front, plus 2 in the
                back (double-checked to confirm with the manual at
                http://www.bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/rm2401.pdf). The screws on the
                front appear to have covers over them (or perhaps they are the fasteners
                rather than screws?) but I can't get them free to see the screw heads. I
                can barely even manage to get a fingernail underneath the lip of them, much
                less pull them loose. Any ideas?

                Thanks,

                Wesley
              • Bill Deisenroth
                On my Dometic RM1303 (built sometime in the early 1980s I believe) it is held in by 6 screws on the front of the frig. The screws are hidden under plastic caps
                Message 7 of 23 , May 6, 2007
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                  On my Dometic RM1303 (built sometime in the early
                  1980s I believe) it is held in by 6 screws on the
                  front of the frig. The screws are hidden under plastic
                  caps that I removed with a small screwdriver. You also
                  need to disconnect the gas line, electric lines,the
                  doors and anything else that is obvious. If it is like
                  mine it will be a tight fit sliding it in and out and
                  2 people doing it will make it much easier, its heavy.
                  Mine has been out twice (in my 21 years of ownership),
                  once to replace the cooling coils that sprang a leak
                  and once to add insulation for better hot weather
                  performance. You can remove the vent cap on the roof
                  and see if you can fix the problem from the top before
                  you go to all the trouble of removing the frig.
                  Bill

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                • Wesley Furr
                  Bill, Thanks for the tip...already got it fixed though... If I do have to pull it, I ll try taking a screwdriver to those caps - I figured they would have
                  Message 8 of 23 , May 6, 2007
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                    Bill,

                    Thanks for the tip...already got it fixed though... If I do have to pull
                    it, I'll try taking a screwdriver to those caps - I figured they would have
                    popped out more easily (using fingernails).

                    I started to try to pull it and chickened out and went in from the top. It
                    was way blocked up from insulation having fallen down on top of the upper
                    fridge coils. I actually just pulled most of it out, not sure how it was
                    originally, hopefully not like it was when I got to it! I'm just hoping
                    that blockage hasn't caused any permanent damage to the cooling unit. I
                    went ahead and fired it up on gas, and after probably 4 hours I just checked
                    it and with the knob up half-way (this one doesn't have numbers), it was
                    already down to 32 degrees in the fridge. Probably helped that it's cool
                    here in VA today, supposedly a frost advisory out tonight. Yikes! Just
                    when I thought spring was finally here to stay...

                    Just under two weeks left before our first trip of the year...looks like I
                    might actually manage to have this "new" one ready for the trip. Still need
                    to get tag/title, new tires, and an inspection. Plus a slowly shortening
                    list of non-critical things...

                    Thanks again!

                    Wesley


                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: classicrv@yahoogroups.com [mailto:classicrv@yahoogroups.com]On
                    Behalf Of Bill Deisenroth
                    Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:35 PM
                    To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: [classicrv] Re:Removing Dometic RM2501 fridge from an 89
                    Sunline


                    On my Dometic RM1303 (built sometime in the early
                    1980s I believe) it is held in by 6 screws on the
                    front of the frig. The screws are hidden under plastic
                    caps that I removed with a small screwdriver. You also
                    need to disconnect the gas line, electric lines,the
                    doors and anything else that is obvious. If it is like
                    mine it will be a tight fit sliding it in and out and
                    2 people doing it will make it much easier, its heavy.
                    Mine has been out twice (in my 21 years of ownership),
                    once to replace the cooling coils that sprang a leak
                    and once to add insulation for better hot weather
                    performance. You can remove the vent cap on the roof
                    and see if you can fix the problem from the top before
                    you go to all the trouble of removing the frig.
                    Bill

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                  • Bill Deisenroth
                    Wesley, Glad you were able to fix your frig the easy way. If the unit cooled down to 32 deg. in 4 hours its doing well. The recomended temp. in the frig area
                    Message 9 of 23 , May 7, 2007
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                      Wesley,
                      Glad you were able to fix your frig the easy way. If
                      the unit cooled down to 32 deg. in 4 hours its doing
                      well. The recomended temp. in the frig area (not
                      freezer)is 40 deg. F so I aim for about 38 deg. to
                      give an extra safety margin. The key to good operation
                      on hot days is ventilation to the cooling coils. I
                      have a 12 V fan for those days and keep the access
                      door cracked open when parked.
                      Bill



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