Re: batteries ... and stuff on the run
- Checker auto parts has a 800 watt on sale right now for $49.95
--- In email@example.com, "tmtractor@j..." <tmtractor@j...>
>lot of power, especially after it has been cooled down. Good luck.
> 300-400 watt inverter should do fine. The fridge doesn't draw a
- The best place for price on the fridge is Home Depot. I tried Sears and they just laughed at me for asking about a small apartment fridge for under $200. This idea just seemed to be a good one and after trying it, I can't see anybody paying over 1K for a new RV fridge. I also used an extra peice of panelling to go around the fridge and take up the space left by the old one. It looks fine and I only used a few small brass brads to attach it so in case I have to remove/service the fridge it's just a matter of popping a few of the brads loose and access is a snap. Good luck, have a great day!
- Hi Don -
Sorry to hear of the bypass operation. I've had my share of that kind of
stuff but back on topic, I replaced the fridge in my unit with a small
"household" unit, not apartment size. It fit right in the hole and gave me
twice the interior space of the old unit plus kept everything much colder.
With regards to the inverter, so far there has been no need. I have spent
the whole day driving in the Florida and Texas sun and still had ice for tea
that evening with no power to the fridge while driving. This was when the
generator was being stubborn as it is usually running when the temp gets
over 85. Obviously, you are contemplating boon-docking with the 6 volt
batteries etc. To get the correct size converter, check the power
requirements for the fridge and allow about 30% for startup surge. Just
because the weather is cool doesn't mean you can drop down to a lower
capacity converter as it will still draw the same current whenever it starts
up. All things considered, I wouldn't go back to an rv fridge, it just
doesn't work as well and does not have the interior space.
----- Original Message -----
From: "don rutledge" <don3494@...>
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [classicrv] batteries ... and stuff on the run
> Very good ! I am at home recovering from Quad-bypass on me and the reefer
> idea is a very good one as I have a 78 Southwind with a fridge that is
> much tireder than I am.So far, I wonder what size inverter one should get
> for this transition ? I will do the change when I am feeling better.I plan
> on building a solar array with the idea of also converting to deep-cycle
> 6-volt pairs and this will help to get this thing on the road whilest time
> is on my side.Somebody will get a sweet rig when I am no longer
> around.Thanks for all of your ideas, guys and gals. Don in Chandler.
- All things considered, I wouldn't go back to an rv fridge, it just
> doesn't work as well and does not have the interior space.Can't wait until my RV fridge goes out!! :o)
> Best Regards,
> lou howard
> 77 Apollo
'82 Coachmen President
- Just to add another $.02.
Something I have seen is the DC powered heat/cool boxes. The local
truck stop has a dc/ac powered reefer/heater box for just under
$100.00. It draws .8 amp on 12 VDC. Its pretty small only a couple
of cubic feet capacity, but for that draw and price, I've considered
upping my coach battery storage and just running it on DC.Or running
*two* of them.
I'm actually trying to my my Trav'ler working on propane (electric
works fine) but this idea is my backup if I can't!
Glenn in Tucson
- As another data point, my daily driver uses an Optima "yellow top" deep
cycle battery for starting (and everything else). I just looked up my
shipping confirmation from when I ordered it; I installed it four years ago
and still going strong.
A previous owner had disabled the headlight warning buzzer, and on a few
occasions I've headed to work around dawn, and arrived at work in daylight,
and accidentally left the lights on. It has been completely discharged at
least 5 times. The previous two batteries were conventional starting
batteries and lasted about two years each.
At 01:30 PM 12/3/04, you wrote:
>And for another word from actual experience, using a deep cycle
>battery for starting purposes, does absolutely no harm to it what
>soever, no matter what any website says.
- 100 % correct Mark. Also that is probably one of the better links around. I
run 3 "Deep Cycle Start" batteries on my Class A; 2 on the coach and 1 on
the chassis. You can notice the difference between a regular automotive
battery and the DCS hybrids when it's time to crank up the old 454; the
starter turns faster/longer on the automotive battery and it is longer life.
Joel in NH
Joel B. Chappell
21 Billings Street
Milford, NH 03055
From: Mark [mailto:mark@...]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [classicrv] Re: Deep Cyle or Regular Battery
Hello back, -r-,
The problem lies in the construction of the dc battery. It's plates are
much thicker...ah, what the heck, I'll just go to the link myself, copy the
information and post it right here:
Starting batteries are normally used to start and run engines. Engine
starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting
batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The
plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine
foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this
sponge will quickly be damaged and will fall to the bottom of the cells.
Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30 or more deep cycles.
Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80%
repeatedly, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a
true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are solid Lead
plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what
kind of battery you are really buying in some of the discount stores or
places that specialize in automotive batteries.
Many Marine batteries are actually "hybrid", and fall between the starting
and deep-cycle batteries, while a few are true deep cycle. In the hybrid,
the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier
than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are
getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should
not be discharged more than 50%.
And there you have it, or part of it. Here's the link again, if anybody
wants to read it all:
OK..almost out...does anybody know how to slide a genset out of the side of
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- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Mark" wrote:
> Mark outside of
> OK..almost out...does anybody know how to slide a genset out of the
> the coach?Mark,
Would you believe... "VERY CAREFULLY!"
Sorry - the devil made me do it!
Last time I took one out, I put a pair of Pick up truck Drive up ramps
side-by-side hooked on the botom of the generator compartment & slid
it out onto them and then down to the pavement - worked pretty well...