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Re: [classicrv] Carburetor Problems..........

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  • Manuel Domingos
    Do you have the electric choke? Mine is set to the factory recomended notch, and it still starts hard after sitting and runs rough on start up. Smooths out
    Message 1 of 15 , Feb 7 8:45 PM
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      Do you have the electric choke? Mine is set to the factory recomended notch,
      and it still starts hard after sitting and runs rough on start up. Smooths
      out when hot though.
      Manny
      72 Superior 2200
      413
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: <astrolark@...>
      To: <classicrv@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 11:14 PM
      Subject: [classicrv] Carburetor Problems..........


      > I have a 1973 Superior 2200 motorhome. When I first got it I had a
      > factory-rebuilt carburetor installed and it worked much better than
      > the old one, but thinking back, it has always been a little hard to
      > start. I usually have to make about three or four attempts,
      > cranking a few seconds and stopping, before it starts. BTW, it has
      > a Dodge 440 engine, with 4 barrel carburetor. After it starts it
      > runs rough like it is partially flooded until it warms up, IF it
      > gets that far. If you don't keep goosing the pedal, it will die on
      > you. I wonder if the fast idle mechanism is working properly? Maybe
      > it isn't properly adjusted.
      >
      > Does anybody know of a website that describes how to adjust this
      > kind of carburetor?
      >
      >
      > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >
      >
      >
      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      >
    • Jim Hodges
      I suppose it does have electric choke. I have only attempted one time to adjust the fast idle and helped it somewhat, but it has never run right until it gets
      Message 2 of 15 , Feb 7 8:57 PM
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        I suppose it does have electric choke. I have only attempted one time to adjust the fast idle and helped it somewhat, but it has never run right until it gets warmed up. I sprayed carburetor cleaner on it recently, as I thought it was sticking but it hasn't helped, apparently.
        When mine gets warm and running right, it still has a less than smooth idle, but more like an engine with a mild cam for racing. Shop that installed the rebuilt carb said that was typical of a 440 engine.
        Manuel Domingos <mdomingo@...> wrote:Do you have the electric choke? Mine is set to the factory recomended notch,
        and it still starts hard after sitting and runs rough on start up. Smooths
        out when hot though.
        Manny
        72 Superior 2200
        413
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: <astrolark@...>
        To: <classicrv@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 11:14 PM
        Subject: [classicrv] Carburetor Problems..........


        > I have a 1973 Superior 2200 motorhome. When I first got it I had a
        > factory-rebuilt carburetor installed and it worked much better than
        > the old one, but thinking back, it has always been a little hard to
        > start. I usually have to make about three or four attempts,
        > cranking a few seconds and stopping, before it starts. BTW, it has
        > a Dodge 440 engine, with 4 barrel carburetor. After it starts it
        > runs rough like it is partially flooded until it warms up, IF it
        > gets that far. If you don't keep goosing the pedal, it will die on
        > you. I wonder if the fast idle mechanism is working properly? Maybe
        > it isn't properly adjusted.
        >
        > Does anybody know of a website that describes how to adjust this
        > kind of carburetor?
        >
        >
        > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
        > classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
        >
        >
        >
        > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
        >
        >



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      • bucky
        Sounds like your goosing the pedal is keeping it running because the accelerator pump is a squirting in a big stream of fuel. One thing that happens when a
        Message 3 of 15 , Feb 8 3:42 AM
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          Sounds like your goosing the pedal is keeping it running because the
          accelerator pump is a squirting in a big stream of fuel. One thing that
          happens when a carbureted vehicle sets is the fuel in the float bowls
          evaporates. If mine sets more than 2 or 3 weeks I turn it over for a few
          seconds to get the fuel pump a chance to refill the float bowls, stop, then
          pump the accelerator several times to get a few squirts of fuel in the
          intake. If you pump the accelerator before refilling the float bowls there
          may not be enough fuel to keep it running on the first start. Of course this
          assumes there is nothing wrong with your carburetor. When I got my motor
          home it had set for 2 years, all the gas had evaporated from the float bowls
          SICKING the floats to the bottom. Nothing would fix them without
          disassembly. Even after a complete rebuild it never would run correctly. If
          I looked down the carb while idling I could see huge random drops of fuel
          dripping into the intake. I replaced the carb and now at idle it's hard to
          see the fuel that drips in at idle; goose it and there is a nice even spray
          on both primaries.

          Also if you ever pull the intake you may consider using the gasket set that
          blocks the exhaust crossover ports. The engine may take longer to warm up
          but at least your not subjecting the carburetor to increased temperatures
          while on the road. Also if you don't have a cold air hose running from the
          air cleaner to somewhere in front of the radiator you should add one.
          Engines don't run as good if the are sucking the hot air trapped in the "dog
          box".

          Anyone with a small block Mopar (318 - 360) should definitely consider
          blocking the exhaust crossover - because it gets the underside of the intake
          so hot that oil frys to it then falls down in the engine as sludge.

          Bucky

          -----Original Message-----
          From: astrolark <astrolark@...> [mailto:astrolark@...]
          Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 11:14 PM
          To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [classicrv] Carburetor Problems..........


          I have a 1973 Superior 2200 motorhome. When I first got it I had a
          factory-rebuilt carburetor installed and it worked much better than
          the old one, but thinking back, it has always been a little hard to
          start. I usually have to make about three or four attempts,
          cranking a few seconds and stopping, before it starts. BTW, it has
          a Dodge 440 engine, with 4 barrel carburetor. After it starts it
          runs rough like it is partially flooded until it warms up, IF it
          gets that far. If you don't keep goosing the pedal, it will die on
          you. I wonder if the fast idle mechanism is working properly? Maybe
          it isn't properly adjusted.

          Does anybody know of a website that describes how to adjust this
          kind of carburetor?


          To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
          classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



          Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
        • Chuck
          ============================================================ From: Jim Hodges Date: 2003/02/07 Fri PM 11:42:23 EST To:
          Message 4 of 15 , Feb 8 7:40 AM
          • 0 Attachment
            ============================================================
            From: Jim Hodges <astrolark@...>
            Date: 2003/02/07 Fri PM 11:42:23 EST
            To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [classicrv] Carburetor Problems..........

            ============================================================
            On a hard starting when hot situation. I have been told that one cause can be a poor ground from engine to chassis. Either a loose bolt or rusty. Find that connection, take both ends loose and scrape, brush, and clean.

            Chuck


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Jim Hodges
            Thanks for your input, Chuck. I will look into that. That might explain why it seems to have gotten slightly worse over time. Jim ... Chuck
            Message 5 of 15 , Feb 8 8:30 PM
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              Thanks for your input, Chuck. I will look into that. That might explain why it seems to have gotten slightly worse over time.
              Jim
              :)

              Chuck <73winniebrave@...> wrote:
              ============================================================
              From: Jim Hodges <astrolark@...>
              Date: 2003/02/07 Fri PM 11:42:23 EST
              To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [classicrv] Carburetor Problems..........

              ============================================================
              On a hard starting when hot situation. I have been told that one cause can be a poor ground from engine to chassis. Either a loose bolt or rusty. Find that connection, take both ends loose and scrape, brush, and clean.

              Chuck


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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              People will forget what you said . . . people will forget what you did . . . but people will never forget how you made them feel.


              Jim


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              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Jim Hodges
              Thank you for taking the time to explain all this to me. You along with several others have given me some things to check out and look into. My experience
              Message 6 of 15 , Feb 8 8:37 PM
              • 0 Attachment
                Thank you for taking the time to explain all this to me. You along with several others have given me some things to check out and look into. My experience has shown it to start much easier with less cranking if it is started every day or so, so what you say about evaporation of fuel might be the problem.

                Thanks again for all your suggestions.

                Jim

                :)




                bucky <buckys@...> wrote:Sounds like your goosing the pedal is keeping it running because the
                accelerator pump is a squirting in a big stream of fuel. One thing that
                happens when a carbureted vehicle sets is the fuel in the float bowls
                evaporates. If mine sets more than 2 or 3 weeks I turn it over for a few
                seconds to get the fuel pump a chance to refill the float bowls, stop, then
                pump the accelerator several times to get a few squirts of fuel in the
                intake. If you pump the accelerator before refilling the float bowls there
                may not be enough fuel to keep it running on the first start. Of course this
                assumes there is nothing wrong with your carburetor. When I got my motor
                home it had set for 2 years, all the gas had evaporated from the float bowls
                SICKING the floats to the bottom. Nothing would fix them without
                disassembly. Even after a complete rebuild it never would run correctly. If
                I looked down the carb while idling I could see huge random drops of fuel
                dripping into the intake. I replaced the carb and now at idle it's hard to
                see the fuel that drips in at idle; goose it and there is a nice even spray
                on both primaries.

                Also if you ever pull the intake you may consider using the gasket set that
                blocks the exhaust crossover ports. The engine may take longer to warm up
                but at least your not subjecting the carburetor to increased temperatures
                while on the road. Also if you don't have a cold air hose running from the
                air cleaner to somewhere in front of the radiator you should add one.
                Engines don't run as good if the are sucking the hot air trapped in the "dog
                box".

                Anyone with a small block Mopar (318 - 360) should definitely consider
                blocking the exhaust crossover - because it gets the underside of the intake
                so hot that oil frys to it then falls down in the engine as sludge.

                Bucky

                -----Original Message-----
                From: astrolark <astrolark@...> [mailto:astrolark@...]
                Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 11:14 PM
                To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [classicrv] Carburetor Problems..........


                I have a 1973 Superior 2200 motorhome. When I first got it I had a
                factory-rebuilt carburetor installed and it worked much better than
                the old one, but thinking back, it has always been a little hard to
                start. I usually have to make about three or four attempts,
                cranking a few seconds and stopping, before it starts. BTW, it has
                a Dodge 440 engine, with 4 barrel carburetor. After it starts it
                runs rough like it is partially flooded until it warms up, IF it
                gets that far. If you don't keep goosing the pedal, it will die on
                you. I wonder if the fast idle mechanism is working properly? Maybe
                it isn't properly adjusted.

                Does anybody know of a website that describes how to adjust this
                kind of carburetor?


                To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



                Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


                To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



                Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


                People will forget what you said . . . people will forget what you did . . . but people will never forget how you made them feel.


                Jim


                ---------------------------------
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                Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Jack Rabon
                Part 1 Edelbrock had a great how to instruction booklet on their aftermarket carbs, with a copy on their web site: http://www.edelbrock.com/ I can t get you
                Message 7 of 15 , Feb 10 9:11 AM
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                  Part 1
                  Edelbrock had a great "how to" instruction booklet on their aftermarket
                  carbs, with a copy on their web site: http://www.edelbrock.com/

                  I can't get you the exact link now, since their entire site appears to be
                  down, or at least the DNS has the wrong entry for them. Try them later,
                  then go to automotive, then performance products & I hope you will see the
                  setup instructions.

                  They included a graph of stock & optional jet sizes & metering rod
                  combinations, along with lines for different altitudes above sea level.
                  You can select power or economy, and set up for your preferred altitude,
                  or at least get close before running the tests & looking at spark plug
                  insulator color.

                  Most of what they have there is good for other carburetors, at least the
                  method can be used.

                  Part 2
                  From a long time with RB Chrysler engines, here is my sure fire method for
                  starting the critter. It assumes the engine has not been started for a few
                  days. By then, the fuel bowl will be empty, or nearly so.

                  Most of your cranking time is spent filling the fuel bowl with the engine
                  driven fuel pump. Save a bunch of time & install an in-line fuel pump with
                  fuel filter between the tank & the engine driven pump. Put this pump on a
                  switch, and let it fill the bowl for you. It will only take 10-15 seconds.

                  I used an old Stewart Warner unit, which rapidly clicks while pumping, then
                  slows to a single "tick" per second or so when the line is up to pressure.
                  That will be when the fuel bowl is full & the needle valve shuts off the
                  fuel entry.

                  Now give the engine two full accelerator pumps, to squirt some fuel into
                  the manifold using the accelerator pump. While you have the throttle at
                  WOT position, open the manual choke. This allows the fast idle cam to
                  freely turn. Now take your foot off the accelerator & turn off the
                  electric fuel pump.

                  A short side note: manual choke kits are only $10 or less from most
                  discount parts houses, and I really think they solve a bunch of problems.
                  You can set the exact dose of mixture enrichment, by listening to the
                  engine after it starts. You can also be sure the choke is really fully
                  open before you make a long trip & waste a bunch of fuel. In less than
                  freezing weather, you can open the choke way before the automatic system
                  would do so, saving soot on your plugs & saving some fuel. Hey, it is not
                  getting any cheaper these days . . .

                  Now back to the method. After the two "squirts", wait about 30 seconds for
                  the fuel to evaporate inside the intake manifold. It cannot leave the
                  manifold, since the throttle plate is closed. And it won't burn in the
                  cylinders until it turns into a vapor.

                  Give the engine a half squirt, and start cranking with your foot off the
                  accelerator. You might be surprised when it takes less than a full
                  revolution of the engine before it starts! Be sure to back off the choke a
                  bit, until the engine is happy at idle.

                  You can now ease on down the road. Do open the choke all the way, as soon
                  as you can.

                  If you like to idle for a bit before starting down the road, do so with the
                  transmission in N, not P. The A727 automatic used on the big block engines
                  does not circulate oil to the cooler & then on the bearings in Park. It
                  does in all other gears, including Neutral.

                  You can open the choke at idle sooner than you can during use, since the
                  engine will idle with choke off sooner than it can take a bit of throttle
                  when cold.

                  This works on my 77 Dodge 440, 70 Executive with Dodge 413, and 78 Dodge
                  400. Yeah, the 400 is only a B block, not an RB like the others, but it is
                  a cousin to the raised B blocks.

                  On our old 1070 Superior 2200, I put the choke button on the side of the
                  engine dog house, way above the throttle foot, almost to the top, flat
                  portion. There was already a hole there where some wires & hoses came out,
                  and I used the bracket that came in the kit to mount the button there. Out
                  of the way, but easy to reach for that cold morning start up.

                  In mild weather, we found that the choke was not needed on a cold start.
                  Just the fuel pump & the "squirts". I live in Florida, so most of the
                  year was mild, but summers all over the country should be the same.

                  That electric fuel pump can also help prevent vapor lock while stuck in
                  slow moving or stop & go traffic.

                  We had the same hard to turn over problem when trying a hot start. Fixed
                  that with new engine battery, new battery cables, better ground
                  connections, and a rebuild of the starter. It was mostly fixed with just
                  the battery & cables, but good as new with the entire treatment.

                  If you try this, let us all know how it goes for you.

                  Jack

                  -----Original Message-----
                  Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2003 04:14:03 -0000
                  From: "astrolark <astrolark@...>" <astrolark@...>
                  Subject: Carburetor Problems..........

                  I have a 1973 Superior 2200 motorhome. When I first got it I had a
                  factory-rebuilt carburetor installed and it worked much better than
                  the old one, but thinking back, it has always been a little hard to
                  start. I usually have to make about three or four attempts,
                  cranking a few seconds and stopping, before it starts. BTW, it has
                  a Dodge 440 engine, with 4 barrel carburetor. After it starts it
                  runs rough like it is partially flooded until it warms up, IF it
                  gets that far. If you don't keep goosing the pedal, it will die on
                  you. I wonder if the fast idle mechanism is working properly? Maybe
                  it isn't properly adjusted.

                  Does anybody know of a website that describes how to adjust this
                  kind of carburetor?
                • Chappell, Joel B
                  Sounds like the thing to do! I have a mix of MOPAR and GM stuff, but nothing I own has a good old Therm-o-quad on it. All my RV experience has been with P-30
                  Message 8 of 15 , Feb 10 9:23 AM
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Sounds like the thing to do!

                    I have a mix of MOPAR and GM stuff, but nothing I own has a good old
                    Therm-o-quad on it. All my RV experience has been with P-30 chassis and
                    454s. I do have a couple of friends that have older Braves, on Dodge
                    running gear, and both of them hated the Therm-o-quad with a passion. So
                    much so, that they did just that... they ripped off the manifold and
                    installed an Edelbrock manifold and carb. Both also installed Hedman headers
                    at the same time. Now they both are all smiles and their rigs start right up
                    and don't load up on damp days.

                    Joel in NH

                    > -----Original Message-----
                    > From: Jack Rabon [SMTP:rabonj@...]
                    > Sent: Monday, February 10, 2003 12:12 PM
                    > To: 'classicrv@yahoogroups.com'
                    > Cc: 'astrolark@...'
                    > Subject: [classicrv] Re: Carburetor Problems..........
                    >
                    > Part 1
                    > Edelbrock had a great "how to" instruction booklet on their aftermarket
                    > carbs, with a copy on their web site: http://www.edelbrock.com/
                    >
                    > I can't get you the exact link now, since their entire site appears to be
                    > down, or at least the DNS has the wrong entry for them. Try them later,
                    > then go to automotive, then performance products & I hope you will see the
                    >
                    > setup instructions.
                    >
                  • Jim Hodges
                    Thank you for that very detailed advice on how to fix my starting problem. What you say seems to fit my situation and I would bet I will find you are right on
                    Message 9 of 15 , Feb 10 8:02 PM
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Thank you for that very detailed advice on how to fix my starting problem. What you say seems to fit my situation and I would bet I will find you are right on target when I get into it. With this and a lot of other good pointers from the other nice members of this group, I feel I can solve the problem, now.

                      Thanks,
                      Jim

                      Jack Rabon <rabonj@...> wrote:Part 1
                      Edelbrock had a great "how to" instruction booklet on their aftermarket
                      carbs, with a copy on their web site: http://www.edelbrock.com/

                      I can't get you the exact link now, since their entire site appears to be
                      down, or at least the DNS has the wrong entry for them. Try them later,
                      then go to automotive, then performance products & I hope you will see the
                      setup instructions.

                      They included a graph of stock & optional jet sizes & metering rod
                      combinations, along with lines for different altitudes above sea level.
                      You can select power or economy, and set up for your preferred altitude,
                      or at least get close before running the tests & looking at spark plug
                      insulator color.

                      Most of what they have there is good for other carburetors, at least the
                      method can be used.

                      Part 2
                      From a long time with RB Chrysler engines, here is my sure fire method for
                      starting the critter. It assumes the engine has not been started for a few
                      days. By then, the fuel bowl will be empty, or nearly so.

                      Most of your cranking time is spent filling the fuel bowl with the engine
                      driven fuel pump. Save a bunch of time & install an in-line fuel pump with
                      fuel filter between the tank & the engine driven pump. Put this pump on a
                      switch, and let it fill the bowl for you. It will only take 10-15 seconds.

                      I used an old Stewart Warner unit, which rapidly clicks while pumping, then
                      slows to a single "tick" per second or so when the line is up to pressure.
                      That will be when the fuel bowl is full & the needle valve shuts off the
                      fuel entry.

                      Now give the engine two full accelerator pumps, to squirt some fuel into
                      the manifold using the accelerator pump. While you have the throttle at
                      WOT position, open the manual choke. This allows the fast idle cam to
                      freely turn. Now take your foot off the accelerator & turn off the
                      electric fuel pump.

                      A short side note: manual choke kits are only $10 or less from most
                      discount parts houses, and I really think they solve a bunch of problems.
                      You can set the exact dose of mixture enrichment, by listening to the
                      engine after it starts. You can also be sure the choke is really fully
                      open before you make a long trip & waste a bunch of fuel. In less than
                      freezing weather, you can open the choke way before the automatic system
                      would do so, saving soot on your plugs & saving some fuel. Hey, it is not
                      getting any cheaper these days . . .

                      Now back to the method. After the two "squirts", wait about 30 seconds for
                      the fuel to evaporate inside the intake manifold. It cannot leave the
                      manifold, since the throttle plate is closed. And it won't burn in the
                      cylinders until it turns into a vapor.

                      Give the engine a half squirt, and start cranking with your foot off the
                      accelerator. You might be surprised when it takes less than a full
                      revolution of the engine before it starts! Be sure to back off the choke a
                      bit, until the engine is happy at idle.

                      You can now ease on down the road. Do open the choke all the way, as soon
                      as you can.

                      If you like to idle for a bit before starting down the road, do so with the
                      transmission in N, not P. The A727 automatic used on the big block engines
                      does not circulate oil to the cooler & then on the bearings in Park. It
                      does in all other gears, including Neutral.

                      You can open the choke at idle sooner than you can during use, since the
                      engine will idle with choke off sooner than it can take a bit of throttle
                      when cold.

                      This works on my 77 Dodge 440, 70 Executive with Dodge 413, and 78 Dodge
                      400. Yeah, the 400 is only a B block, not an RB like the others, but it is
                      a cousin to the raised B blocks.

                      On our old 1070 Superior 2200, I put the choke button on the side of the
                      engine dog house, way above the throttle foot, almost to the top, flat
                      portion. There was already a hole there where some wires & hoses came out,
                      and I used the bracket that came in the kit to mount the button there. Out
                      of the way, but easy to reach for that cold morning start up.

                      In mild weather, we found that the choke was not needed on a cold start.
                      Just the fuel pump & the "squirts". I live in Florida, so most of the
                      year was mild, but summers all over the country should be the same.

                      That electric fuel pump can also help prevent vapor lock while stuck in
                      slow moving or stop & go traffic.

                      We had the same hard to turn over problem when trying a hot start. Fixed
                      that with new engine battery, new battery cables, better ground
                      connections, and a rebuild of the starter. It was mostly fixed with just
                      the battery & cables, but good as new with the entire treatment.

                      If you try this, let us all know how it goes for you.

                      Jack

                      -----Original Message-----
                      Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2003 04:14:03 -0000
                      From: "astrolark <astrolark@...>" <astrolark@...>
                      Subject: Carburetor Problems..........

                      I have a 1973 Superior 2200 motorhome. When I first got it I had a
                      factory-rebuilt carburetor installed and it worked much better than
                      the old one, but thinking back, it has always been a little hard to
                      start. I usually have to make about three or four attempts,
                      cranking a few seconds and stopping, before it starts. BTW, it has
                      a Dodge 440 engine, with 4 barrel carburetor. After it starts it
                      runs rough like it is partially flooded until it warms up, IF it
                      gets that far. If you don't keep goosing the pedal, it will die on
                      you. I wonder if the fast idle mechanism is working properly? Maybe
                      it isn't properly adjusted.

                      Does anybody know of a website that describes how to adjust this
                      kind of carburetor?


                      To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                      classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



                      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


                      People will forget what you said . . . people will forget what you did . . . but people will never forget how you made them feel.


                      Jim


                      ---------------------------------
                      Do you Yahoo!?
                      Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day

                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • chuckyd111 <c-donaldson@attbi.com>
                      ... I ve been thinking about adding an electric fuel pump. One thing I wondered about is whether or not you need to add a fuel pressure regulator. I ve heard
                      Message 10 of 15 , Feb 10 8:51 PM
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                        --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Jack Rabon <rabonj@b...> wrote:
                        > I used an old Stewart Warner unit, which rapidly clicks
                        > while pumping, then slows to a single "tick" per second
                        > or so when the line is up to pressure.
                        > That will be when the fuel bowl is full & the needle valve
                        > shuts off the fuel entry.

                        I've been thinking about adding an electric fuel pump. One thing I
                        wondered about is whether or not you need to add a fuel pressure
                        regulator. I've heard that some electric fuel pumps can "overpower"
                        the needle valve in the carb. Is this true? I know that a good
                        mechanical fuel pump will produce less than 10 lbs. of pressure,
                        whereas an electric fuel pump (made for fuel injection) can produce
                        over 40lbs. Does the old Stewart Warner you mention produce a
                        relatively low fuel line pressure, so you don't need a regulator?
                        Are there new equivalents?
                      • Frogmobile
                        There are electric fuel pumps designed for carbureted applications. They work at a much lower pressure, which is needed to keep other parts of the system,
                        Message 11 of 15 , Feb 11 12:02 AM
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                          There are electric fuel pumps designed for carbureted applications. They
                          work at a much lower pressure, which is needed to keep other parts of the
                          system, such as the needle and seat, from blowing out. They're also
                          typically cheaper than EFI pumps.

                          Remember also that the higher pressure pumps need fuel injection-capable
                          fuel line instead of the regular fuel line probably currently installed on
                          your rig.

                          Jay

                          At 04:51 AM 2/11/03 +0000, you wrote:
                          >--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Jack Rabon <rabonj@b...> wrote:
                          > > I used an old Stewart Warner unit, which rapidly clicks
                          > > while pumping, then slows to a single "tick" per second
                          > > or so when the line is up to pressure.
                          > > That will be when the fuel bowl is full & the needle valve
                          > > shuts off the fuel entry.
                          >
                          >I've been thinking about adding an electric fuel pump. One thing I
                          >wondered about is whether or not you need to add a fuel pressure
                          >regulator. I've heard that some electric fuel pumps can "overpower"
                          >the needle valve in the carb. Is this true? I know that a good
                          >mechanical fuel pump will produce less than 10 lbs. of pressure,
                          >whereas an electric fuel pump (made for fuel injection) can produce
                          >over 40lbs. Does the old Stewart Warner you mention produce a
                          >relatively low fuel line pressure, so you don't need a regulator?
                          >Are there new equivalents?
                        • Philip Saran <psaran@cox.net>
                          ... Yes you should run a fuel regulator set at about 7 lbs pressure. If for no other reason than safety. Phil Saran SOCAL
                          Message 12 of 15 , Feb 12 1:25 PM
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                            --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Frogmobile <frogmobile@e...> wrote:
                            > There are electric fuel pumps designed for carbureted applications.
                            > >I've been thinking about adding an electric fuel pump. One thing I
                            > >wondered about is whether or not you need to add a fuel pressure
                            > >regulator. I've heard that some electric fuel pumps can "overpower"
                            > >the needle valve in the carb. Is this true? I know that a good
                            > >mechanical fuel pump will produce less than 10 lbs. of pressure,
                            > >whereas an electric fuel pump (made for fuel injection) can produce
                            > >over 40lbs.

                            Yes you should run a fuel regulator set at about 7 lbs pressure.
                            If for no other reason than safety.

                            Phil Saran
                            SOCAL
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