2870Re: [classicrv] Best Roof Coating?
- Dec 1, 2000I wonder why the RV manufacturer's didn't use one long sheet of
aluminum and wrap it over the side walls so it wouldn't create a seem.
Then all you'd have to worry about would be sealing the AC and your
roof vents. I've seem some motorhomes that do this with a one piece
fiberglass roof. With the seam high on the wall instead of the roof leaks
are much less likely.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 10:45 PM
Subject: [classicrv] Best Roof Coating?
Bill in Texas wrote:
>Help! I do enjoy having a shower in the rig but really the wife
>thinks we should keep it confined to the actual shower not the
>bedroom;>). I have taped all the seams and that seemed to cure my
>problem until that last 2000 mile plus trip. Now when it rains it
>pours inside. I guess I have shaken things open. I have thought
>re-roofing with rubber but that gets pricey. My thought is to use
>seam tape and patching compound then go over the entire roof with 1
>or 2 coats of Kool Seal. Let me know what you have tried and had
>success with. As always I value your opinions. Thanks in advance!
I used Kool Seal on the roof of my 30-foot class-A, Bill. Not so
much for sealing out water, but to protect the sealent underneath it
and for cooling. That super-white color really makes a difference
on keeping a roof cool. With the rather thin insulation on these
roofs, that makes for a big difference inside.
But the primary reason is to protect the seams sealent. Sunlight
really does a job on the silicone sealers. I don't know how many
times I've walked around or on top of a rig and taken the edge of
a sealent strip and pulled it up for the full length of the patch.
Part of the problem is probably surface preparation, but the big
sealent killer is sunlight.
And how many rigs have I seen that the owner tried to seal windows
by laying a track of RTV over the top of the original sealent only
to have it literally fall off after a couple years (or less). You
gotta remove the old stuff, get under the rubber, and use a butyl
based sealer. Asking silicone to simultaneously stick to metal,
fiberglass, old butyl sealent, and glass is asking a bit much of
The previous owner of a class-C I had went around the roof seam
and applied some of the toughest sealent I ever ran across. It
stuck to the fiberglass edge like gang busters. Trouble was it
didn't stick to the aluminum roof. So water simply slid on under
it. I had a horrible time getting the stuff off and the original
putty under the seam was totally dried out.
I found the key to solving a leak was not to try cover up the
seam that was leaking with more sealent, but to get under it,
where the original stuff was, and replace the failing sealent.
Then make sure the sun can't eat it up. Slopping glop over the
top of a suspected leak ain't gonna woik for long!!
Another thing I've found on these older rigs is loose screws
that prestage getting a leak. Air gets under the seam, dries
out the sealent, and voila! This is especially true on rigs
that use an aluminum channel with a sealent under it, screwed
down atop the seam. The screws are hidden by a vinyl strip
inserted in the channel. As the chassis flexes the screws work
loose, get water in them and rust, especially on wooden-framed
units. They commonly use phillips or those square-slotted screws
(you may have to get a matching screwdriver). While my current
rig has an aluminum framework, nonetheless I go around after
every trip and check for loose screws (and often find them).
Not being an expert, and as my son's wrestling hero would say:
"And that's all I got to say about that!" :o)
Good luck. Ron in MD
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