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Just asking

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  • Anthony Spezio
    I had an offer today to bring my canoe to a warm shop to work on it. If I can get it there without damaging it I will take him up on the offer. My canoe is
    Message 1 of 3 , Jan 11, 2011
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      I had an offer today to bring my canoe to a warm shop to work on it. If I can get it there without damaging it I will take him up on the offer. My canoe is ready to fiberglass but it is under my open porch that is enclosed with Lattice work. The area is only 5' wide by 20' long with a stairway coming down one end.  In order to move the canoe out, I would have to remove the legs from the strong back. The strong back is a ladder type made from 2x4's. The cross members are 18" apart. Would I be taking too much risk moving it on the strong back. The opening to the outside is about 60" wide with a post in the way. There is not enough room to turn the canoe lengthwise as the concrete wall and the lattice work is only 5' apart. The canoe and strong back will have to be turned on it's side in order to get it through the gate that is on one end of the lattice work next to a wall.. We were able to move out the last canoe turned on it's side through the gate but
      it was already fiber glassed. What I am concerned about is damaging the hull by possible twisting getting it through the gate and on a trailer. It will only have to go about 4 miles to the shop. No staples in the strips to the forms but I can use bungee straps over the strips and forms. Has anyone had to move a canoe at this stage without any damage.
      Just trying to decide if it is worth the trouble in order to have my canoe ready to use in the Spring. I have not been able to do anything on it for 15 months due to three surgeries. Hate to pass this chance to "get it done" as the saying goes.
      Arkansas Tony





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • James D. Marco
      Arkansas Tony, Well, the hull shape is complete. That is, the strips are cut and achored (glued) where they will be. Twisting is a concern. But, If you can get
      Message 2 of 3 , Jan 11, 2011
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        Arkansas Tony,
        Well, the hull shape is complete. That is, the strips are cut and achored (glued) where
        they will be. Twisting is a concern. But, If you can get the boat out, transported dry, and
        reanchored, it *should* be OK. The gunnels (gunwales) will change the shape a bit as
        they are installed anyway. Lining up the bow and stern are the critical parts. Since the
        entire hull can still be flexed, I would remove the entire strong back, leaving the bow and
        stern assemblies in the boat. If these are loose already, you might just tape them in.
        Reassemble the form using strings on the boat when you get it to the other shop. This
        may require some tricks: long boards, measuring to center, etc, but I am sure that it is
        manageable. Once you are sure it is as close as is possible, it should be as good as
        they ever are.
        My thoughts only . . .
        jdm


        At 05:39 PM 1/11/2011, you wrote:
        >I had an offer today to bring my canoe to a warm shop to work on it. If I can get it there without damaging it I will take him up on the offer. My canoe is ready to fiberglass but it is under my open porch that is enclosed with Lattice work. The area is only 5' wide by 20' long with a stairway coming down one end. In order to move the canoe out, I would have to remove the legs from the strong back. The strong back is a ladder type made from 2x4's. The cross members are 18" apart. Would I be taking too much risk moving it on the strong back. The opening to the outside is about 60" wide with a post in the way. There is not enough room to turn the canoe lengthwise as the concrete wall and the lattice work is only 5' apart. The canoe and strong back will have to be turned on it's side in order to get it through the gate that is on one end of the lattice work next to a wall.. We were able to move out the last canoe turned on it's side through the gate but
        > it was already fiber glassed. What I am concerned about is damaging the hull by possible twisting getting it through the gate and on a trailer. It will only have to go about 4 miles to the shop. No staples in the strips to the forms but I can use bungee straps over the strips and forms. Has anyone had to move a canoe at this stage without any damage.
        >Just trying to decide if it is worth the trouble in order to have my canoe ready to use in the Spring. I have not been able to do anything on it for 15 months due to three surgeries. Hate to pass this chance to "get it done" as the saying goes.
        >Arkansas Tony
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        >
        >
        >------------------------------------
        >
        >Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        James Marco,
        302 Mary Lane,
        Ithaca, NY 14850
        607-273-9132


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Carel Ruysink
        I agree with James. If you trust the glue of the strips (and preferably can leave the midstation in (with a strap around it)) it will look scary but it is much
        Message 3 of 3 , Jan 12, 2011
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          I agree with James.
          If you trust the glue of the strips (and preferably can leave the midstation in (with a strap around it)) it will look scary but it is much stronger than you believe.

          The final strength of epoxy or polyester is highly depending on the curingtemperature so if you can have a warm and dry room to glass do everything possible to use it.
          In cold and damp weather you never get good results. The resin will never reach the expected final strength and it will turn an ugly milky white (from moisture in the air).
          After a few weeks the resin will get hard but never strong.

          So if you can, go for it.

          Carel
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: James D. Marco
          To: cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 1:21 AM
          Subject: Re: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Just asking



          Arkansas Tony,
          Well, the hull shape is complete. That is, the strips are cut and achored (glued) where
          they will be. Twisting is a concern. But, If you can get the boat out, transported dry, and
          reanchored, it *should* be OK. The gunnels (gunwales) will change the shape a bit as
          they are installed anyway. Lining up the bow and stern are the critical parts. Since the
          entire hull can still be flexed, I would remove the entire strong back, leaving the bow and
          stern assemblies in the boat. If these are loose already, you might just tape them in.
          Reassemble the form using strings on the boat when you get it to the other shop. This
          may require some tricks: long boards, measuring to center, etc, but I am sure that it is
          manageable. Once you are sure it is as close as is possible, it should be as good as
          they ever are.
          My thoughts only . . .
          jdm


          At 05:39 PM 1/11/2011, you wrote:
          >I had an offer today to bring my canoe to a warm shop to work on it. If I can get it there without damaging it I will take him up on the offer. My canoe is ready to fiberglass but it is under my open porch that is enclosed with Lattice work. The area is only 5' wide by 20' long with a stairway coming down one end. In order to move the canoe out, I would have to remove the legs from the strong back. The strong back is a ladder type made from 2x4's. The cross members are 18" apart. Would I be taking too much risk moving it on the strong back. The opening to the outside is about 60" wide with a post in the way. There is not enough room to turn the canoe lengthwise as the concrete wall and the lattice work is only 5' apart. The canoe and strong back will have to be turned on it's side in order to get it through the gate that is on one end of the lattice work next to a wall.. We were able to move out the last canoe turned on it's side through the gate but
          > it was already fiber glassed. What I am concerned about is damaging the hull by possible twisting getting it through the gate and on a trailer. It will only have to go about 4 miles to the shop. No staples in the strips to the forms but I can use bungee straps over the strips and forms. Has anyone had to move a canoe at this stage without any damage.
          >Just trying to decide if it is worth the trouble in order to have my canoe ready to use in the Spring. I have not been able to do anything on it for 15 months due to three surgeries. Hate to pass this chance to "get it done" as the saying goes.
          >Arkansas Tony
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          >
          >
          >------------------------------------
          >
          >Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          James Marco,
          302 Mary Lane,
          Ithaca, NY 14850
          607-273-9132

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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