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Re:Newbie Steve's update

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  • cbp704
    Whoops, I see you already know that. Doh!
    Message 1 of 10 , Mar 12, 2010
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      Whoops, I see you already know that. Doh!

      --- In cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com, Kurt Maurer <NGC704@...> wrote:
      >
      > Carbide scraper from Lowe's works best on exterior, or convex, surfaces.
      > $20 in the paint section. But make sure it says 'carbide', otherwise I
      > didn't say nuthin'.......
      >
      > --
      > Cheers,
      > Kurt Maurer
      > League City, Texas
      >
    • ofmik
      Steve, Fairing the inside can be a challenge!  I have had good results with a modified paint scraper with a 2-3 blade that has rounded edges.  If sharpened
      Message 2 of 10 , Mar 13, 2010
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        Steve,
        Fairing the inside can be a challenge!  I have had good results with a modified paint scraper with a 2-3" blade that has rounded edges.  If sharpened correctly, these can be very effective for scraping or planing down the ridges and glue drips. If you have a scraper with a long two handed handle, you can make lots of fine shavings fast.

        For fine fairing, I use a random orbit sander with different grit disks as well as a 10" flexible disk in a drill with disks used in a body shop. The finishing touches are completed by hand using small wood blocks and sand paper.

        --- On Thu, 3/11/10, drippy70 <hodtay@...> wrote:

        From: drippy70 <hodtay@...>
        Subject: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: Newbie Steve's update
        To: cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com
        Received: Thursday, March 11, 2010, 6:12 PM







         









        Thanks for the furniture scraper suggestion. I bought a tungsten carbide scraper from HYDE that worked great for faring the outer hull.



        I think I'm done smoothing the outer hull for now while I turn my attentions to faring the inside. I'll take your advice and check on Lee Valley Tools for someting that works on a concave surface. If you have specific scraper you like to use let me know what it is and I'll give it a try.



        As for stripping and glassing, I actually enjoyed the epoxy/fiberglass process more than I anticipated. Maybe it's the instant transformation from rough sanded cedar to shiny smooth epoxy that I enjoy.



        My next step is to make the cradles/slings to hold the hull while I work on the inside. In Central California the weeds are already waist high and the rain has kept me from weed control duties. I'll need to lock the shop door for the weekend while I do weed control.



        Steve

        --- In cedarstripcanoes@ yahoogroups. com, ofmik <ofmik@...> wrote:

        >

        > Steve,  sounds like you are having fun with your new "baby"!  You may want to try using a furniture scraper for leveling those pesky epoxy drips rather than sanding them out.  Lee Valley Tools sell several excellent scrapers that allow you to remove the high spots without risk to the cloth beneath. These scrapers are made of thin, flexible steel that is easy to control, yet make real short work of the drips. When sharp, they also work wonders on fairing the hull before glassing.  Good luck and happy stripping!

        >

        >

        >

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      • Tim
        Hey Kurt- What do you use for a burnisher on a carbide scraper? I thought the burnisher needs to be harder than the scraper to form the burr, all the
        Message 3 of 10 , Mar 13, 2010
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          Hey Kurt-

          What do you use for a burnisher on a carbide scraper? I thought the burnisher needs to be harder than the scraper to form the burr, all the burnishers seem to be tungston carbide also...

          Tim Greiner

          --- Kurt Maurer wrote:
          >
          > Carbide scraper from Lowe's works best on exterior, or convex, surfaces.
          > $20 in the paint section. But make sure it says 'carbide', otherwise I
          > didn't say nuthin'.......
          >
          > --
          > Cheers,
          > Kurt Maurer
          > League City, Texas
          >
        • drippy70
          I don t think you burnish carbide, it s brittle I think you can sharpen it with a green (soft) wheel on a pedestal grinder. We use carbide punches at work
          Message 4 of 10 , Mar 13, 2010
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            I don't think you burnish carbide, it's brittle I think you can sharpen it with a green (soft) wheel on a pedestal grinder. We use carbide punches at work and we sharpen them on a surface grinder with a wheel designed to grind it. It's a very soft wheel that breaks down rapidly.

            --- In cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com, "Tim" <casey51234@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hey Kurt-
            >
            > What do you use for a burnisher on a carbide scraper? I thought the burnisher needs to be harder than the scraper to form the burr, all the burnishers seem to be tungston carbide also...
            >
            > Tim Greiner
            >
            > --- Kurt Maurer wrote:
            > >
            > > Carbide scraper from Lowe's works best on exterior, or convex, surfaces.
            > > $20 in the paint section. But make sure it says 'carbide', otherwise I
            > > didn't say nuthin'.......
            > >
            > > --
            > > Cheers,
            > > Kurt Maurer
            > > League City, Texas
            > >
            >
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