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Cedar strip repair

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  • Koda
    Greetings, Newbie here, with a 16 cedar strip Prospector that has a 2-foot long crack down the middle behind the bow seat. Looked through the database (very
    Message 1 of 5 , May 31, 2009
      Greetings,

      Newbie here, with a 16' cedar strip Prospector that has a 2-foot long crack down the middle behind the bow seat. Looked through the database (very nice feature!) for suggestions on how to do the repair but didn't find enough process detail. I haven't worked with fiberglass before and I'd like to do the repair in my garage.

      I'm wondering about things like how many layers to use on the inside and outside, how to lap them (how big each layer should be), and general tips on working with epoxy. Web links would be great, since I learn well by reading and looking at pictures.

      Here's the boat in case anyone's wondering what it looks like.
      http://www.codabone.net/canoeing/canoes/rosie.htm
      It seems unique in that it doesn't have the usual football. It was built in 2002, supposedly by Dave Fisher's Ontario Wooden Boat Works (but no one seems to have ever heard of it).

      Well, that's the deal. Thoughts, ideas, links, tips?

      Thanks!

      Dave
    • Tim Greiner
      Dave- Nice looking boat. First thing would be to clamp the crack closed, try to use webbing straps to pull it together. When you can see it is stable and
      Message 2 of 5 , Jun 3, 2009
        Dave-

        Nice looking boat. First thing would be to clamp the crack closed, try to use webbing straps to pull it together. When you can see it is stable and closed all the way, release the clamp, epoxy the crack, and clamp it together again. Clean the excess epoxy off.
        Second, prep the area inside and outside around the crack for fiberglass, sanding through the varnish but not the existing fiberglass about 6" around all sides. Put a 4" wide bias cut strip of 6 oz cloth on the crack, going 6" past the ends. Within 24 hours add another 8" wide strip on top of that one. Then fill in the weave with as many epoxy coats as necessary.
        You will probably need to clean up the edges of the cloth with sandpaper, but overall sanding isn't necessary (or desireable) if you go 12-36 hours between epoxy applications.
        Feather out the edges of the epoxy with sandpaper, and sand the patch completely, ending with 220 grit. Coat with several coats of marine varnish with UV protection.

        Tim Greiner

        --- Dave wrote:
        >
        > Greetings,
        >
        > Newbie here, with a 16' cedar strip Prospector that has a 2-foot long crack down the middle behind the bow seat. Looked through the database (very nice feature!) for suggestions on how to do the repair but didn't find enough process detail. I haven't worked with fiberglass before and I'd like to do the repair in my garage.
        >
        > I'm wondering about things like how many layers to use on the inside and outside, how to lap them (how big each layer should be), and general tips on working with epoxy. Web links would be great, since I learn well by reading and looking at pictures.
        >
        > Here's the boat in case anyone's wondering what it looks like.
        > http://www.codabone.net/canoeing/canoes/rosie.htm
        > It seems unique in that it doesn't have the usual football. It was built in 2002, supposedly by Dave Fisher's Ontario Wooden Boat Works (but no one seems to have ever heard of it).
        >
        > Well, that's the deal. Thoughts, ideas, links, tips?
        >
        > Thanks!
        >
        > Dave
        >
      • David E. Birren
        Hi Tim, Thanks very much for the tips. The first challenge I ll have is getting the crack apart enough to align the edges. I may have to put the boat on
        Message 3 of 5 , Jun 3, 2009
          Hi Tim,

          Thanks very much for the tips. The first challenge I'll have is getting the
          crack apart enough to align the edges. I may have to put the boat on
          sawhorses and put weight in it to get it open up. I figure I'll see what it
          takes to get the edges to match up and then epoxy the raw edges. Then I'll
          strap it closed and follow your instructions. I expect to patch both the
          inside and outside. Do you recommend the same layering on both sides?

          Thanks again,

          Dave

          -----Original Message-----
          From: cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com
          [mailto:cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Tim Greiner
          Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:08 AM
          To: cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: Cedar strip repair





          Dave-

          Nice looking boat. First thing would be to clamp the crack closed, try to
          use webbing straps to pull it together. When you can see it is stable and
          closed all the way, release the clamp, epoxy the crack, and clamp it
          together again. Clean the excess epoxy off.
          Second, prep the area inside and outside around the crack for fiberglass,
          sanding through the varnish but not the existing fiberglass about 6" around
          all sides. Put a 4" wide bias cut strip of 6 oz cloth on the crack, going 6"
          past the ends. Within 24 hours add another 8" wide strip on top of that one.
          Then fill in the weave with as many epoxy coats as necessary.
          You will probably need to clean up the edges of the cloth with sandpaper,
          but overall sanding isn't necessary (or desireable) if you go 12-36 hours
          between epoxy applications.
          Feather out the edges of the epoxy with sandpaper, and sand the patch
          completely, ending with 220 grit. Coat with several coats of marine varnish
          with UV protection.

          Tim Greiner

          --- Dave wrote:
          >
          > Greetings,
          >
          > Newbie here, with a 16' cedar strip Prospector that has a 2-foot long
          crack down the middle behind the bow seat. Looked through the database (very
          nice feature!) for suggestions on how to do the repair but didn't find
          enough process detail. I haven't worked with fiberglass before and I'd like
          to do the repair in my garage.
          >
          > I'm wondering about things like how many layers to use on the inside and
          outside, how to lap them (how big each layer should be), and general tips on
          working with epoxy. Web links would be great, since I learn well by reading
          and looking at pictures.
          >
          > Here's the boat in case anyone's wondering what it looks like.
          > http://www.codabone.net/canoeing/canoes/rosie.htm
          > It seems unique in that it doesn't have the usual football. It was built
          in 2002, supposedly by Dave Fisher's Ontario Wooden Boat Works (but no one
          seems to have ever heard of it).
          >
          > Well, that's the deal. Thoughts, ideas, links, tips?
          >
          > Thanks!
          >
          > Dave
          >






          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Tim Greiner
          Dave- You will probably have to get creative to hold everything in place, that s the thought behind the dry run. You ll probably have to brace between the
          Message 4 of 5 , Jun 3, 2009
            Dave-

            You will probably have to get creative to hold everything in place, that's the thought behind the dry run. You'll probably have to brace between the gunnels, and block inside and out to straighten it all.
            Same layering inside and out.
            Good luck with it.

            Tim Greiner

            -- David E. Birren wrote:
            >
            > Hi Tim,
            >
            > Thanks very much for the tips. The first challenge I'll have is getting the
            > crack apart enough to align the edges. I may have to put the boat on
            > sawhorses and put weight in it to get it open up. I figure I'll see what it
            > takes to get the edges to match up and then epoxy the raw edges. Then I'll
            > strap it closed and follow your instructions. I expect to patch both the
            > inside and outside. Do you recommend the same layering on both sides?
            >
            > Thanks again,
            >
            > Dave
            >
            > -----Original Message-----

            > Dave-
            >
            > Nice looking boat. First thing would be to clamp the crack closed, try to
            > use webbing straps to pull it together. When you can see it is stable and
            > closed all the way, release the clamp, epoxy the crack, and clamp it
            > together again. Clean the excess epoxy off.
            > Second, prep the area inside and outside around the crack for fiberglass,
            > sanding through the varnish but not the existing fiberglass about 6" around
            > all sides. Put a 4" wide bias cut strip of 6 oz cloth on the crack, going 6"
            > past the ends. Within 24 hours add another 8" wide strip on top of that one.
            > Then fill in the weave with as many epoxy coats as necessary.
            > You will probably need to clean up the edges of the cloth with sandpaper,
            > but overall sanding isn't necessary (or desireable) if you go 12-36 hours
            > between epoxy applications.
            > Feather out the edges of the epoxy with sandpaper, and sand the patch
            > completely, ending with 220 grit. Coat with several coats of marine varnish
            > with UV protection.
            >
            > Tim Greiner
            >
            > --- Dave wrote:
            > >
            > > Greetings,
            > >
            > > Newbie here, with a 16' cedar strip Prospector that has a 2-foot long
            > crack down the middle behind the bow seat. Looked through the database (very
            > nice feature!) for suggestions on how to do the repair but didn't find
            > enough process detail. I haven't worked with fiberglass before and I'd like
            > to do the repair in my garage.
            > >
            > > I'm wondering about things like how many layers to use on the inside and
            > outside, how to lap them (how big each layer should be), and general tips on
            > working with epoxy. Web links would be great, since I learn well by reading
            > and looking at pictures.
            > >
            > > Here's the boat in case anyone's wondering what it looks like.
            > > http://www.codabone.net/canoeing/canoes/rosie.htm
            > > It seems unique in that it doesn't have the usual football. It was built
            > in 2002, supposedly by Dave Fisher's Ontario Wooden Boat Works (but no one
            > seems to have ever heard of it).
            > >
            > > Well, that's the deal. Thoughts, ideas, links, tips?
            > >
            > > Thanks!
            > >
            > > Dave
            > >
          • David E. Birren
            Thanks. It may be a while before I get to it, but I ll keep track of what works and what doesn t and post the results. Dave ... From:
            Message 5 of 5 , Jun 3, 2009
              Thanks. It may be a while before I get to it, but I'll keep track of what
              works and what doesn't and post the results.

              Dave

              -----Original Message-----
              From: cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com
              [mailto:cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Tim Greiner
              Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 8:07 PM
              To: cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: Cedar strip repair





              Dave-

              You will probably have to get creative to hold everything in place, that's
              the thought behind the dry run. You'll probably have to brace between the
              gunnels, and block inside and out to straighten it all.
              Same layering inside and out.
              Good luck with it.

              Tim Greiner

              -- David E. Birren wrote:
              >
              > Hi Tim,
              >
              > Thanks very much for the tips. The first challenge I'll have is getting
              the
              > crack apart enough to align the edges. I may have to put the boat on
              > sawhorses and put weight in it to get it open up. I figure I'll see what
              it
              > takes to get the edges to match up and then epoxy the raw edges. Then
              I'll
              > strap it closed and follow your instructions. I expect to patch both the
              > inside and outside. Do you recommend the same layering on both sides?
              >
              > Thanks again,
              >
              > Dave
              >
              > -----Original Message-----

              > Dave-
              >
              > Nice looking boat. First thing would be to clamp the crack closed, try
              to
              > use webbing straps to pull it together. When you can see it is stable
              and
              > closed all the way, release the clamp, epoxy the crack, and clamp it
              > together again. Clean the excess epoxy off.
              > Second, prep the area inside and outside around the crack for
              fiberglass,
              > sanding through the varnish but not the existing fiberglass about 6"
              around
              > all sides. Put a 4" wide bias cut strip of 6 oz cloth on the crack,
              going 6"
              > past the ends. Within 24 hours add another 8" wide strip on top of that
              one.
              > Then fill in the weave with as many epoxy coats as necessary.
              > You will probably need to clean up the edges of the cloth with
              sandpaper,
              > but overall sanding isn't necessary (or desireable) if you go 12-36
              hours
              > between epoxy applications.
              > Feather out the edges of the epoxy with sandpaper, and sand the patch
              > completely, ending with 220 grit. Coat with several coats of marine
              varnish
              > with UV protection.
              >
              > Tim Greiner
              >
              > --- Dave wrote:
              > >
              > > Greetings,
              > >
              > > Newbie here, with a 16' cedar strip Prospector that has a 2-foot long
              > crack down the middle behind the bow seat. Looked through the database
              (very
              > nice feature!) for suggestions on how to do the repair but didn't find
              > enough process detail. I haven't worked with fiberglass before and I'd
              like
              > to do the repair in my garage.
              > >
              > > I'm wondering about things like how many layers to use on the inside
              and
              > outside, how to lap them (how big each layer should be), and general
              tips on
              > working with epoxy. Web links would be great, since I learn well by
              reading
              > and looking at pictures.
              > >
              > > Here's the boat in case anyone's wondering what it looks like.
              > > http://www.codabone.net/canoeing/canoes/rosie.htm
              > > It seems unique in that it doesn't have the usual football. It was
              built
              > in 2002, supposedly by Dave Fisher's Ontario Wooden Boat Works (but no
              one
              > seems to have ever heard of it).
              > >
              > > Well, that's the deal. Thoughts, ideas, links, tips?
              > >
              > > Thanks!
              > >
              > > Dave
              > >






              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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