Re: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: Kerf Blade Wobble
- --- You wrote:
Thanks everyone for the information. I live about 500 km round trip
to the nearest tool outlet so I want to be prepared in knowing what I
am looking for. I will check out first all the suggestions everyone
have mentioned to date and any more that may be added.
I do own and use a good 12 inch Delta planner but I guess it may be a
touch of lazyness or efficiency that if I can remove one step of the
work I will. I do like the cut from that blade so would like to
continue with it.
--- end of quote ---
There also are, or used to be, planing blades that did not have carbon teeth. The teeth also were not cronked to alternate sides. This meant that the blade cut a kerf exactly the same width as the blade, so it made for a very smooth saw cut.
None of the blades I had lasted very long, but they sure cut smoothly while they were sharp. It was as if the wood you ripped had been planed.
- One of the big issues that I had when I was designing the router
table was the adjustability of the whole thing.
First, 1" S4S red cedar isn't as thick as it used to be. (less than
3/4" actual thickness!) I also wanted to be able to put cove and
bead edges on wider assemblies that are to be used as feature strips
(Up to about 3" wide)
Second, I knew from building a quick-and-dirty plywood router table
with a clamped on fence that the adjustment to get a good cove cut
without edges that were either too thin, or too thick, that I needed
good adjustability. You've got to be able to adjust the thing to
within a gnat's behind to be able to get those right.
Third, I wanted to be able to do other thicknesses of strip (up to
Some things that I'd like to change about the design:
-I used a screw to adjust the cutter's centerline to the fence to get
a good cove depth. It works well, but I didn't allow for a similar
adjustment for the total strip width (Distance between cutter-
heads.) A big "duh" moment on my part, there.
-Make the table longer on the in and out-feed.
- Make some allowance on the table to improve the mounting of
featherboards to the table - either a t-slot or some threaded inserts.
-Bring the vertical fences down to the table surface instead of using
the edge of a piece of plywood.
-I would make some mount for a shop-vac hose or some other dust
collection system to be integral with the table - this thing cuts a
lot of stock and makes lots of dust and chips.
-Put a junction box on the table with two sockets and a single power
switch so that I can turn both routers on and off at the same time as
a safety procedure.
-I _might_ add a power feeder - it could be as simple as a surplus AC
gearmotor with a rubber faced wheel.
If I write an article, it will be about revision "B" of this thing.