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Re: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: Glueing strips discoveries

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  • charles.k.scott@dartmouth.edu
    ... Corky: One thing that surprised me (the books didn t mention it) was that when you get to the curve of the bilge, you need to hold the previous strip in
    Message 1 of 11 , Dec 20, 2006
      --- You wrote:

      One thing that surprised me (the books didn't mention it) was that
      when you get to the curve of the bilge, you need to hold the previous
      strip in place while gluing/clamping the new one. The downward
      clamping force tends to push the already-glued strip away from the
      form- not a problem on stapled construction. I used similar plywood
      brackets as yours, and wedged the previous strip before placing the
      new- a pain but necessary. You might want to think about how the
      wedgeless clamping will do on the bilge, maybe taping will prevent
      the pushout, maybe not and wedges could be in order for that area.

      Tim Greiner
      --- end of quote ---

      I've noticed the tendency of the strips to hold away from the forms, especially near the stern where the shape of the canoe from fore to aft reflexes somewhat. The strips are held firmly to the forms by the brackets, until they (the brackets) are removed for the next strip. The brackets I made extend well down past the strip being glued and the one below, so wedging it securely should not be an issue. I've been hoping that the various strips, as they dried in place, would hold more closely to the form but in case that doesn't happen, I've got to have a plan "B".

      I thought about it some last night during one of my sleepless moments and wondered if I would have to glue some block to the inside of the canoe that I could then clamp somehow to the form to hold that section true to the form so that when I fiberglass, the shape is accurate and not ballooned out a bit. The block would then have to be ripped off the inner hull and the hull repaired before fiberglassing, of course. It's either that or screw/nail it and cover it with fiberglass, then dig it out later and repair the mess. Another solution would be to rig an A frame over the area that doesn't hold the shape without pressure, lay up the fiberglass and then attach brackets that push the strips in where they should be. The "pushers" can be just one-by's with the end touching the fiberglass protected with tape so they don't bond to the hull. This would leave a dent in the fiberglass to deal with later, but at least all the glass would be there and repair of such a dent is easy.

      I did spend some time last night "glue proofing" the brackets with packing tape as I continued rounding off the edges. Rounding the edges does appear necessary as some of the strips were in fact dented from the brackets.

      Corky Scott
    • calvin plato
      Corky, I was just looking at your photos of the clamping devices you are using in place of staples. They look really good and seem very simple to use. I
      Message 2 of 11 , Dec 22, 2006
        Corky, I was just looking at your photos of the clamping devices you are using in place of staples. They look really good and seem very simple to use. I think when I make my two Little Auks this spring I am going to try not using staples as well. I will definitely use the technique you employed. In addition, I think I am going to use those come along straps that people use to tie down stuff on their cars and trucks. I have a whole bunch of these straps as they don't cost a lot at Wally-mart. In the past, I have used them when I go over the curve portion of the kayak/canoe. I think the combination of your clamping device and these straps should be really good in making sure the strips remain flush with the forms. The idea of going staple-less is looking very appealing to me because of the time savings, not having to deal with splintered wood when the staples don't go into the wood right, and the amount of time and pain it is to remove those staples. so thanks for the
        great idea.


        charles.k.scott@... wrote:
        --- You wrote:

        I am a visual guy, any way to take a picture?
        --- end of quote ---

        Ok, just uploaded the pictures of the latest construction including a few of the wedgeless block technique. Even have a shot of me unwinding tape. They are in the photos section under "Corky's Winisk".

        I did buy some electrical tape yesterday to try out. It wasn't very expensive at 79 cents a roll so we'll see.

        I also spent a few minutes last night having fun with my Dremel tool and a tiny roundover bit I have for it. It must be about an eighth inch radius. I also have a little router collar for it so that turns it into a miniature router. The roundover bit did a nice job of cleaning up the sharp inside edges of the slot in the plywood, so I can now lean on it to apply pressure and not have a sharp corner dent the strips. It's always fun to use cool power tools.

        Corky Scott

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