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[Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: First Strip Built Boat

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  • Hap McDaniel <happeninghap@hotmail.com>
    Hi JR, Thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. I really like the feedback, it sure helps. I boat on the Verde River quite a bit. We putin at
    Message 1 of 32 , Feb 27, 2003
      Hi JR,
      Thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. I really
      like the feedback, it sure helps. I boat on the Verde River quite a
      bit. We putin at Camp Verde or Beasley Flats mostly. Last month the
      weather was unbelievably warm for boating. Also BLue Ridge Reservoir
      is a great place to cool off during the summer in AZ. I've heard
      Lake Mary is a mud hole lately. I'm more of a river runner than a
      boat builder. To this date I built a 14' white water dory(stitch &
      glue) for boating on big water and the unfinished cedar strip canoe.
      I do have to admit I'm primarily a rafter. The canoe keeps me going
      between raft trips.

      This is a great Yahoo group, thanks again.

      You can read posts from the wacky folks I boat with here.........



      Hap McDaniel
      Phoenix AZ USA

      --- In cedarstripcanoes@yahoogroups.com, "J. R. Sloan
      <jrsloan3@y...>" <jrsloan3@y...> wrote:
      > Hap McDaniel wrote:
      > > Hi JR,
      > > I like those very helpful pix you posted. I had a few ideas you
      > > not need or want........ Would a trip to the office supply
      > > wharehouse to get a few different sizes of rubber bands save
      > > It looks like you are tieing a lot of fishing line. Pulling on
      > > of the beefier rubber bands will hurt your fingers before they
      > > snap/break. Slip a band over one hook and wrap both hooks until
      > > are out of band and hook the last bit. I can tell you from
      > > experince the rubber bands will not last long in the sun. Only a
      > > hour or so which may be good if the glue is dry and you are
      > > for the next strips.
      > Reply: Heck, yes--whatever works for the project is worth doing,
      > using disposable rubber bands might speed both mounting and
      > dismounting the system. Especially if --as you say-- it tends
      > self-dismounting in the sunshine. Sounds like all you'd have to
      > some of the time is sweep up. In fact, Jon used big rubber bands
      > from inner tubes from tires on his boat with great success,
      although I
      > doubt he ever took his jewel out in the sunlight during
      > There will still be situations where you'll need additional
      > (or longer lengths) than would be available with the rubberband
      > option: Kite string or fishline would work there. Fishing line
      > well from a couple of POVs: (a) very cheap (b) practically
      > supply on one roll (c) comes in whatever lengths you want to cut
      > (d) no need to run to Office Depot, get to go to the sporting
      > section instead (e) (if in sufficient strength) won't break at
      > inconvenient times or whack your fingers with a vicious snap.
      > may get the idea I'm promoting the fishing industry (an idea I've
      > toyed with a number of times as an occupation), but really, I
      tried a
      > whole bunch of options before I finally settled on this one as the
      > least painful of the bunch.
      > >
      > > Is pegboard cheaper than plywood molds?
      > Reply: In my neck of the woods (Spokane), pegboard is about 1/2
      > price of 1/4" plywood. More to the point, it weighs the same or
      > when working single-handed, cuts more smoothly, is easier to sand,
      > doesn't give me any slivers. Glue seems to dry quicker on
      > than on plywood (but that could be my imagination) when mounting
      > the adjustable woodstrips I used to mount to the strongback
      > of a separate discussion, perhaps). Note that I used 3/16
      > not a tempered hardboard product.
      > > Do you think I could staple to the pegboard?
      > Reply: I don't think that would be consistently successful. If I
      > going into this project with an eye to using staples, I would
      > glue some scrap wood frames around the edges of the molds to use
      > stapling "targets". This would also stiffen the pegboard a lot, if
      > this is a concern. There would be some time involved, but only 3-
      > extra hours, and if it permitted the use of staples (versus
      > staple-less methods) it would be a big time-saver.
      > >I'm not looking for a showboat...staple holes are okay with me.
      > Reply: If I hadn't made a couple of boats before I started on my
      > stripper, I might have said the same thing. I know not everyone
      > this way, but the more time and effort I put into a project, the
      > perfect I want it to be. I read the "pros" and "cons" in this
      > early discussion, and elected to go staple-less. I suppose this
      > brands me a fussy perfectionist, but it didn't make sense to me to
      > build a stripper for its natural wood grain, then purposely put
      > in it that would disrupt its appearance. I'm working on plans for
      > boat that will use strips + staples, but the inside will have
      > and the outside will have opaque white bottom paint with bright,
      > varnished trip (with no staple marks).
      > > Hap McDaniel
      > > Phoenix AZ USA
      > Reply: Hap, I note you're located in Phoenix, where I spent some
      > at both Luke and Williams AFBs. I don't recommend canoing in the
      > Fria river unless you plan to shoot some very rare and temporary
      > rapids. Lake Mary would be nice with a canoe; otherwise, where
      > you planning to take your boat?
      > Best regards, JR
    • J. R. Sloan
      Sorry I took so long to get back to you, Hap, but if you look at my latest post, you ll understand why. I ve floated down the Verde (circa 1966) on innertubes
      Message 32 of 32 , Mar 19, 2003
        Sorry I took so long to get back to you, Hap, but if you look at my
        latest post, you'll understand why.
        I've floated down the Verde (circa 1966) on innertubes with a
        suspended ice chest for the beverages. I understand why you might
        have some reservations about shallow rocks on fiberglass bottoms. My
        et advice is just to slather on extra armor, and be prepared at
        season's end to sand and resurface. The Cedarstrip with FRG surface
        is both tough and resilient, and in the shorter sizes, as
        maneuverable as any.
        Regarding your previous question about shortening an already-
        assembled stripper, I have a couple of suggestions of where I might
        start: (1) I would firmly glas both inside and outside of the points
        where I wanted to do surgery. (2) I would triple-check that the
        profiles at those points exactly match for later assembly (3)I would
        then bring the two ends together (a) first with a layer of glass and
        epoxy on the outside so everything was fair, then (b) epoxy putty
        plus matching cedar strip butt strips on the inside to reestablish
        the hull's physical integrity.
        It might not be a pretty fix, but it would work if you could match
        the two cut edges after removing the middle section. In this case, I
        think "measure umpteen times, cut once" is the operative rule.
        > > Best regards, JR
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