[Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: First Strip Built Boat
- Hi JR,
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. I really
like the feedback, it sure helps. I boat on the Verde River quite a
bit. We putin at Camp Verde or Beasley Flats mostly. Last month the
weather was unbelievably warm for boating. Also BLue Ridge Reservoir
is a great place to cool off during the summer in AZ. I've heard
Lake Mary is a mud hole lately. I'm more of a river runner than a
boat builder. To this date I built a 14' white water dory(stitch &
glue) for boating on big water and the unfinished cedar strip canoe.
I do have to admit I'm primarily a rafter. The canoe keeps me going
between raft trips.
This is a great Yahoo group, thanks again.
You can read posts from the wacky folks I boat with here.........
Phoenix AZ USA
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "J. R. Sloan
<jrsloan3@y...>" <jrsloan3@y...> wrote:
> Hap McDaniel wrote:may
> > Hi JR,
> > I like those very helpful pix you posted. I had a few ideas you
> > not need or want........ Would a trip to the office supplytime???
> > wharehouse to get a few different sizes of rubber bands save
> > It looks like you are tieing a lot of fishing line. Pulling onsome
> > of the beefier rubber bands will hurt your fingers before theywill
> > snap/break. Slip a band over one hook and wrap both hooks untilyou
> > are out of band and hook the last bit. I can tell you frompersonal
> > experince the rubber bands will not last long in the sun. Only aready
> > hour or so which may be good if the glue is dry and you are
> > for the next strips.and
> Reply: Heck, yes--whatever works for the project is worth doing,
> using disposable rubber bands might speed both mounting andtoward
> dismounting the system. Especially if --as you say-- it tends
> self-dismounting in the sunshine. Sounds like all you'd have todo
> some of the time is sweep up. In fact, Jon used big rubber bandsmade
> from inner tubes from tires on his boat with great success,although I
> doubt he ever took his jewel out in the sunlight duringconstruction.
> There will still be situations where you'll need additional
> (or longer lengths) than would be available with the rubberbandworks
> option: Kite string or fishline would work there. Fishing line
> well from a couple of POVs: (a) very cheap (b) practicallyunlimited
> supply on one roll (c) comes in whatever lengths you want to cutoff
> (d) no need to run to Office Depot, get to go to the sportinggoods
> section instead (e) (if in sufficient strength) won't break atYou
> inconvenient times or whack your fingers with a vicious snap.
> may get the idea I'm promoting the fishing industry (an idea I'vetried a
> toyed with a number of times as an occupation), but really, I
> whole bunch of options before I finally settled on this one as thethe
> least painful of the bunch.
> > Is pegboard cheaper than plywood molds?
> Reply: In my neck of the woods (Spokane), pegboard is about 1/2
> price of 1/4" plywood. More to the point, it weighs the same orless
> when working single-handed, cuts more smoothly, is easier to sand,and
> doesn't give me any slivers. Glue seems to dry quicker onpegboard
> than on plywood (but that could be my imagination) when mountingto
> the adjustable woodstrips I used to mount to the strongback(subject
> of a separate discussion, perhaps). Note that I used 3/16pegboard,
> not a tempered hardboard product.were
> > Do you think I could staple to the pegboard?
> Reply: I don't think that would be consistently successful. If I
> going into this project with an eye to using staples, I wouldsimply
> glue some scrap wood frames around the edges of the molds to useas
> stapling "targets". This would also stiffen the pegboard a lot, if4
> this is a concern. There would be some time involved, but only 3-
> extra hours, and if it permitted the use of staples (versusfeels
> staple-less methods) it would be a big time-saver.
> >I'm not looking for a showboat...staple holes are okay with me.
> Reply: If I hadn't made a couple of boats before I started on my
> stripper, I might have said the same thing. I know not everyone
> this way, but the more time and effort I put into a project, themore
> perfect I want it to be. I read the "pros" and "cons" in thissite's
> early discussion, and elected to go staple-less. I suppose thisholes
> brands me a fussy perfectionist, but it didn't make sense to me to
> build a stripper for its natural wood grain, then purposely put
> in it that would disrupt its appearance. I'm working on plans fora
> boat that will use strips + staples, but the inside will haveribs,
> and the outside will have opaque white bottom paint with bright,time
> varnished trip (with no staple marks).
> > Hap McDaniel
> > Phoenix AZ USA
> Reply: Hap, I note you're located in Phoenix, where I spent some
> at both Luke and Williams AFBs. I don't recommend canoing in theAgua
> Fria river unless you plan to shoot some very rare and temporarywere
> rapids. Lake Mary would be nice with a canoe; otherwise, where
> you planning to take your boat?
> Best regards, JR
- Sorry I took so long to get back to you, Hap, but if you look at my
latest post, you'll understand why.
I've floated down the Verde (circa 1966) on innertubes with a
suspended ice chest for the beverages. I understand why you might
have some reservations about shallow rocks on fiberglass bottoms. My
et advice is just to slather on extra armor, and be prepared at
season's end to sand and resurface. The Cedarstrip with FRG surface
is both tough and resilient, and in the shorter sizes, as
maneuverable as any.
Regarding your previous question about shortening an already-
assembled stripper, I have a couple of suggestions of where I might
start: (1) I would firmly glas both inside and outside of the points
where I wanted to do surgery. (2) I would triple-check that the
profiles at those points exactly match for later assembly (3)I would
then bring the two ends together (a) first with a layer of glass and
epoxy on the outside so everything was fair, then (b) epoxy putty
plus matching cedar strip butt strips on the inside to reestablish
the hull's physical integrity.
It might not be a pretty fix, but it would work if you could match
the two cut edges after removing the middle section. In this case, I
think "measure umpteen times, cut once" is the operative rule.
> > Best regards, JR