[Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: First Strip Built Boat
- --- In email@example.com, Jon <ssnvet637@y...> wrote:
> I ended up using the inner tube "rubber bands" which II wanted to agree with Jon that staple-less method is more
> cut out of old tubes from a truck tire company. They
> were more than happy to get rid of them. Be sure to
> wash them off before you start cutting them up. Also,
> the inside had a white powdery substance that was
> I resolved the issue of the strips pulling away from
> the forms by making "fingers" out of scrap plywood
> which I used to push the strips into contact with the
> form, then clamped to the form. I wrapped the edge of
> the jig that contacted the strip with packing tape so
> that it would not get glued to the strips with the
> excess glue.
> If you are considering the stapless method, keep in
> mind that this will result in a significant increase
> in the amount of time for the project. I could only
> set 2-3 strips at a time, then wait for the glue to
> dry before continuing on. I suspect that two people
> could strip a canoe in a day with the staple method.
> Mine seemed like it took forever.
time-consuming. But it does give you a much more attractive finish at
the end. Case in Point: Jon's own boat!
- Sorry I took so long to get back to you, Hap, but if you look at my
latest post, you'll understand why.
I've floated down the Verde (circa 1966) on innertubes with a
suspended ice chest for the beverages. I understand why you might
have some reservations about shallow rocks on fiberglass bottoms. My
et advice is just to slather on extra armor, and be prepared at
season's end to sand and resurface. The Cedarstrip with FRG surface
is both tough and resilient, and in the shorter sizes, as
maneuverable as any.
Regarding your previous question about shortening an already-
assembled stripper, I have a couple of suggestions of where I might
start: (1) I would firmly glas both inside and outside of the points
where I wanted to do surgery. (2) I would triple-check that the
profiles at those points exactly match for later assembly (3)I would
then bring the two ends together (a) first with a layer of glass and
epoxy on the outside so everything was fair, then (b) epoxy putty
plus matching cedar strip butt strips on the inside to reestablish
the hull's physical integrity.
It might not be a pretty fix, but it would work if you could match
the two cut edges after removing the middle section. In this case, I
think "measure umpteen times, cut once" is the operative rule.
> > Best regards, JR