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2157Re: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Non-corrosive screws for the gunwales

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  • charles.k.scott@dartmouth.edu
    Mar 7, 2006
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      --- You wrote:
      Hi Corky,

      I have to disagree with you on this one. Even if the screws are plugged and covered, I would still use stainless. It is amazing how moisture is able to penetrate. Especially in a situation where you are securing a joint such as a gunnel which may be subjected to flexing, impacts, and other stresses.

      I think with all the money and time I put into a boat like this I don't want to risk any potential issues with a screw that costs less than a dime. So I would go to the effort of locating stainless for any hardware used on a boat I am building.

      Just my humble opinion!

      Jon
      --- end of quote ---

      No problem Jon, I'm no expert. I was just thinking in terms of bonding, as opposed to mechanically attaching. If you are bonding the gunwales to the hull, they will be water proof at the joint to the hull, and will have the hole plugged with a wood dowel, which will also will be epoxied in place. With enough clamps, you don't even need screws, they're there just to hold things in place with even pressure while the epoxy cures. After that, they could be removed, just like the staples that are pulled once the glue is cured and you're ready to finish the hull for fiberglassing.

      I've even heard of guys using wooden dowels in place of screws. The gunwale was dry fit, and holes drilled for the dowels when all was lined up. Then the gunwales were removed, epoxy applied and the gunwales reinstalled with the dowels bonked through the holes to keep all from sliding around as you clamped from one end to the other.

      If you are bonding, the screws aren't there for strength.

      I haven't priced various screws but I doubt that buying stainless as opposed to ordinary screws would be a project stopper, so sure, buy what you think works best for you.

      Corky Scott
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