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White metal casting

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  • Bob Davies
    Firstly, happy New Year everyone. If I make an RTV mould, to prove a design for white metal casting, can I then machine it out of steel and cast into that. I
    Message 1 of 24 , Jan 1, 2006
      Firstly, happy New Year everyone.

      If I make an RTV mould, to prove a design for white metal casting, can
      I then machine it out of steel and cast into that.

      I am talking about drop casting by the way.

      Alternativly, I have a requirement for a hole through the final
      casting 5mm x 1.6mm x about 2mm deep. Should I consider putting a
      steel insert into the RTV to make sure it doesn't snap off when
      demoulding.
    • Jack McKie
      Bob, Your description of what you are trying to accomplish is a bit vague but....... Casting white metal is usually done in rubber molds either by drop casting
      Message 2 of 24 , Jan 1, 2006
        Bob,

        Your description of what you are trying to accomplish is a bit vague but.......

        Casting white metal is usually done in rubber molds either by drop casting or more commonly in a spincasting machine. Metal molds, dies, are used in a high pressure die casting machine. Much depends on what you are trying to make and how many pieces you need. Rubber mold casting is most likely the best method for your purposes unless you need to hold tight tollerances. Coring holes in rubber molds can be accomplished with a core print in the pattern and by using a rubber, teflon or metal core in the mold. I have used a lot of teflon cores and find them to be both accurate and fairly easy to use. If you use metal cores they need to be polished and you may need to lubricate and preheat them before putting them into the mold each time. A friend of mine has used dowl pins for coring round holes and I have used brass wire for coring very small holes. Teflon is better for larger holes >.062" or odd shaped holes since it can be easily machined. Very large holes can be cored
        with rubber cores which can be made to fit complex shapes.

        Hope that helps!

        Jack



        Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@...> wrote:
        Firstly, happy New Year everyone.

        If I make an RTV mould, to prove a design for white metal casting, can
        I then machine it out of steel and cast into that.

        I am talking about drop casting by the way.

        Alternativly, I have a requirement for a hole through the final
        casting 5mm x 1.6mm x about 2mm deep. Should I consider putting a
        steel insert into the RTV to make sure it doesn't snap off when
        demoulding.





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      • Bob Davies
        Not heard of machining teflon before. I only know of it as a non- stick pan coating. So how does it come, and can I get small quantities. I am UK based, but
        Message 3 of 24 , Jan 1, 2006
          Not heard of machining teflon before. I only know of it as a non-
          stick pan coating.

          So how does it come, and can I get small quantities.

          I am UK based, but once I have an idea of what to look for I can
          probably do a search.

          --- In casting@yahoogroups.com, Jack McKie <freshwatermodels@y...>
          wrote:
          >
          > Bob,
          >
          > Your description of what you are trying to accomplish is a bit
          vague but.......
          >
          > Casting white metal is usually done in rubber molds either by
          drop casting or more commonly in a spincasting machine. Metal
          molds, dies, are used in a high pressure die casting machine. Much
          depends on what you are trying to make and how many pieces you
          need. Rubber mold casting is most likely the best method for your
          purposes unless you need to hold tight tollerances. Coring holes
          in rubber molds can be accomplished with a core print in the pattern
          and by using a rubber, teflon or metal core in the mold. I have
          used a lot of teflon cores and find them to be both accurate and
          fairly easy to use. If you use metal cores they need to be
          polished and you may need to lubricate and preheat them before
          putting them into the mold each time. A friend of mine has used
          dowl pins for coring round holes and I have used brass wire for
          coring very small holes. Teflon is better for larger holes >.062"
          or odd shaped holes since it can be easily machined. Very large
          holes can be cored
          > with rubber cores which can be made to fit complex shapes.
          >
          > Hope that helps!
          >
          > Jack
          >
          >
          >
          > Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@v...> wrote:
          > Firstly, happy New Year everyone.
          >
          > If I make an RTV mould, to prove a design for white metal casting,
          can
          > I then machine it out of steel and cast into that.
          >
          > I am talking about drop casting by the way.
          >
          > Alternativly, I have a requirement for a hole through the final
          > casting 5mm x 1.6mm x about 2mm deep. Should I consider putting a
          > steel insert into the RTV to make sure it doesn't snap off when
          > demoulding.
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > ---------------------------------
          > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
          >
          >
          > Visit your group "casting" on the web.
          >
          > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
          > casting-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          >
          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
          Service.
          >
          >
          > ---------------------------------
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > ---------------------------------
          > Yahoo! Photos
          > Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
          holidays, whatever.
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
        • Jack McKie
          Bob, Teflon is available on a variety of shapes, I bought a variety of rods that I turn down to size I need, Look on eBay Jack Bob Davies
          Message 4 of 24 , Jan 1, 2006
            Bob,

            Teflon is available on a variety of shapes, I bought a variety of rods that I turn down to size I need, Look on eBay

            Jack

            Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@...> wrote:
            Not heard of machining teflon before. I only know of it as a non-
            stick pan coating.

            So how does it come, and can I get small quantities.

            I am UK based, but once I have an idea of what to look for I can
            probably do a search.

            --- In casting@yahoogroups.com, Jack McKie <freshwatermodels@y...>
            wrote:
            >
            > Bob,
            >
            > Your description of what you are trying to accomplish is a bit
            vague but.......
            >
            > Casting white metal is usually done in rubber molds either by
            drop casting or more commonly in a spincasting machine. Metal
            molds, dies, are used in a high pressure die casting machine. Much
            depends on what you are trying to make and how many pieces you
            need. Rubber mold casting is most likely the best method for your
            purposes unless you need to hold tight tollerances. Coring holes
            in rubber molds can be accomplished with a core print in the pattern
            and by using a rubber, teflon or metal core in the mold. I have
            used a lot of teflon cores and find them to be both accurate and
            fairly easy to use. If you use metal cores they need to be
            polished and you may need to lubricate and preheat them before
            putting them into the mold each time. A friend of mine has used
            dowl pins for coring round holes and I have used brass wire for
            coring very small holes. Teflon is better for larger holes >.062"
            or odd shaped holes since it can be easily machined. Very large
            holes can be cored
            > with rubber cores which can be made to fit complex shapes.
            >
            > Hope that helps!
            >
            > Jack
            >
            >
            >
            > Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@v...> wrote:
            > Firstly, happy New Year everyone.
            >
            > If I make an RTV mould, to prove a design for white metal casting,
            can
            > I then machine it out of steel and cast into that.
            >
            > I am talking about drop casting by the way.
            >
            > Alternativly, I have a requirement for a hole through the final
            > casting 5mm x 1.6mm x about 2mm deep. Should I consider putting a
            > steel insert into the RTV to make sure it doesn't snap off when
            > demoulding.
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
            >
            >
            > Visit your group "casting" on the web.
            >
            > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
            > casting-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
            Service.
            >
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > Yahoo! Photos
            > Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
            holidays, whatever.
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >






            ---------------------------------
            YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


            Visit your group "casting" on the web.

            To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
            casting-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

            Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


            ---------------------------------






            ---------------------------------
            Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.

            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Bob Davies
            OK, thanks ... of rods that I turn down to size I need, Look on eBay ... Much ... pattern ... casting, ... a ... Service.
            Message 5 of 24 , Jan 1, 2006
              OK, thanks

              --- In casting@yahoogroups.com, Jack McKie <freshwatermodels@y...>
              wrote:
              >
              > Bob,
              >
              > Teflon is available on a variety of shapes, I bought a variety
              of rods that I turn down to size I need, Look on eBay
              >
              > Jack
              >
              > Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@v...> wrote:
              > Not heard of machining teflon before. I only know of it as a non-
              > stick pan coating.
              >
              > So how does it come, and can I get small quantities.
              >
              > I am UK based, but once I have an idea of what to look for I can
              > probably do a search.
              >
              > --- In casting@yahoogroups.com, Jack McKie <freshwatermodels@y...>
              > wrote:
              > >
              > > Bob,
              > >
              > > Your description of what you are trying to accomplish is a bit
              > vague but.......
              > >
              > > Casting white metal is usually done in rubber molds either by
              > drop casting or more commonly in a spincasting machine. Metal
              > molds, dies, are used in a high pressure die casting machine.
              Much
              > depends on what you are trying to make and how many pieces you
              > need. Rubber mold casting is most likely the best method for your
              > purposes unless you need to hold tight tollerances. Coring holes
              > in rubber molds can be accomplished with a core print in the
              pattern
              > and by using a rubber, teflon or metal core in the mold. I have
              > used a lot of teflon cores and find them to be both accurate and
              > fairly easy to use. If you use metal cores they need to be
              > polished and you may need to lubricate and preheat them before
              > putting them into the mold each time. A friend of mine has used
              > dowl pins for coring round holes and I have used brass wire for
              > coring very small holes. Teflon is better for larger holes >.062"
              > or odd shaped holes since it can be easily machined. Very large
              > holes can be cored
              > > with rubber cores which can be made to fit complex shapes.
              > >
              > > Hope that helps!
              > >
              > > Jack
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@v...> wrote:
              > > Firstly, happy New Year everyone.
              > >
              > > If I make an RTV mould, to prove a design for white metal
              casting,
              > can
              > > I then machine it out of steel and cast into that.
              > >
              > > I am talking about drop casting by the way.
              > >
              > > Alternativly, I have a requirement for a hole through the final
              > > casting 5mm x 1.6mm x about 2mm deep. Should I consider putting
              a
              > > steel insert into the RTV to make sure it doesn't snap off when
              > > demoulding.
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > ---------------------------------
              > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
              > >
              > >
              > > Visit your group "casting" on the web.
              > >
              > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
              > > casting-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > >
              > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
              > Service.
              > >
              > >
              > > ---------------------------------
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > ---------------------------------
              > > Yahoo! Photos
              > > Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
              > holidays, whatever.
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ---------------------------------
              > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
              >
              >
              > Visit your group "casting" on the web.
              >
              > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
              > casting-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              >
              > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
              Service.
              >
              >
              > ---------------------------------
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ---------------------------------
              > Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
            • Ted Quick
              You can buy Teflon in rods or sheets. For durability in casting metal around it it s best to get fiberglass reinforced Teflon, at least 25% glass. Small
              Message 6 of 24 , Jan 1, 2006
                You can buy Teflon in rods or sheets. For durability in casting metal around it it's best to get
                fiberglass reinforced Teflon, at least 25% glass. Small quantities shouldn't be a problem, it's
                about the only way anybody buys it anyway.

                Ted Quick

                --- Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@...> wrote:
                > Not heard of machining teflon before. I only know of it as a non-
                > stick pan coating.
                > So how does it come, and can I get small quantities.
                >
                > I am UK based, but once I have an idea of what to look for I can
                > probably do a search.
                >
                > --- In casting@yahoogroups.com, Jack McKie <freshwatermodels@y...>
                > wrote:
                > >
                > > Bob,
                > >
                > > Your description of what you are trying to accomplish is a bit
                > vague but.......
                > >
                > > Casting white metal is usually done in rubber molds either by
                > drop casting or more commonly in a spincasting machine. Metal
                > molds, dies, are used in a high pressure die casting machine. Much
                > depends on what you are trying to make and how many pieces you
                > need. Rubber mold casting is most likely the best method for your
                > purposes unless you need to hold tight tollerances. Coring holes
                > in rubber molds can be accomplished with a core print in the pattern
                > and by using a rubber, teflon or metal core in the mold. I have
                > used a lot of teflon cores and find them to be both accurate and
                > fairly easy to use. If you use metal cores they need to be
                > polished and you may need to lubricate and preheat them before
                > putting them into the mold each time. A friend of mine has used
                > dowl pins for coring round holes and I have used brass wire for
                > coring very small holes. Teflon is better for larger holes >.062"
                > or odd shaped holes since it can be easily machined. Very large
                > holes can be cored
                > > with rubber cores which can be made to fit complex shapes.
                > >
                > > Hope that helps!
                > >
                > > Jack
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@v...> wrote:
                > > Firstly, happy New Year everyone.
                > >
                > > If I make an RTV mould, to prove a design for white metal casting,
                > can
                > > I then machine it out of steel and cast into that.
                > >
                > > I am talking about drop casting by the way.
                > >
                > > Alternativly, I have a requirement for a hole through the final
                > > casting 5mm x 1.6mm x about 2mm deep. Should I consider putting a
                > > steel insert into the RTV to make sure it doesn't snap off when
                > > demoulding.
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > ---------------------------------
                > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
                > >
                > >
                > > Visit your group "casting" on the web.
                > >
                > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                > > casting-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                > >
                > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                > Service.
                > >
                > >
                > > ---------------------------------
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > ---------------------------------
                > > Yahoo! Photos
                > > Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
                > holidays, whatever.
                > >
                > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >


                Ted Quick
              • SKIFORTHETHRILL@AOL.COM
                Ted Where can I purchase teflon rod to use as insert pins for jewelry pieces I cast? Dale [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                Message 7 of 24 , Jan 3, 2006
                  Ted
                  Where can I purchase teflon rod to use as insert pins for jewelry pieces I
                  cast?
                  Dale


                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Bob Davies
                  Is there any reason why I can t use a steel mould for drop casting white metal parts. Provided there are no undercuts. I would imagine that preheating the
                  Message 8 of 24 , Apr 17 10:39 AM
                    Is there any reason why I can't use a steel mould for drop casting
                    white metal parts. Provided there are no undercuts.

                    I would imagine that preheating the mould would be essential.

                    Previous posts have explained that RTV expands 2% when heated to
                    working temperature. So would the alternate method be better.

                    As I understand it, die casting is expensive to set up, so a large
                    production run is necessary. So I am looking for a 'half way house'
                    solution.
                  • Ted Quick
                    Should be possible as long as the runners and vents are big enough and configured right. ... Ted Quick Need a website? Look at: http://www.rqh-webhosting.com/
                    Message 9 of 24 , Apr 17 10:56 AM
                      Should be possible as long as the runners and vents are big enough and configured right.

                      --- Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@...> wrote:

                      > Is there any reason why I can't use a steel mould for drop casting
                      > white metal parts. Provided there are no undercuts.
                      >
                      > I would imagine that preheating the mould would be essential.
                      >
                      > Previous posts have explained that RTV expands 2% when heated to
                      > working temperature. So would the alternate method be better.
                      >
                      > As I understand it, die casting is expensive to set up, so a large
                      > production run is necessary. So I am looking for a 'half way house'
                      > solution.
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >


                      Ted Quick
                      Need a website? Look at: http://www.rqh-webhosting.com/
                    • Bob Davies
                      Advantages should be consistant quality and life of mould. Disadvantage would be cycle time. Now if I could centrifugally cast as well................ ... and
                      Message 10 of 24 , Apr 17 11:16 AM
                        Advantages should be consistant quality and life of mould.

                        Disadvantage would be cycle time.

                        Now if I could centrifugally cast as well................

                        --- In casting@yahoogroups.com, Ted Quick <rim_molder@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Should be possible as long as the runners and vents are big enough
                        and configured right.
                        >
                        > --- Bob Davies <davies.bobuk@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > > Is there any reason why I can't use a steel mould for drop
                        casting
                        > > white metal parts. Provided there are no undercuts.
                        > >
                        > > I would imagine that preheating the mould would be essential.
                        > >
                        > > Previous posts have explained that RTV expands 2% when heated to
                        > > working temperature. So would the alternate method be better.
                        > >
                        > > As I understand it, die casting is expensive to set up, so a
                        large
                        > > production run is necessary. So I am looking for a 'half way
                        house'
                        > > solution.
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        >
                        >
                        > Ted Quick
                        > Need a website? Look at: http://www.rqh-webhosting.com/
                        >
                      • Kozmo
                        I m looking for a fast-cure, thixotropic, platinum addition cure silicone. I want to paint this onto a piece as a glove mold and then peel it off. My
                        Message 11 of 24 , Apr 17 11:40 AM
                          I'm looking for a fast-cure, thixotropic, platinum addition cure silicone.


                          I want to "paint" this onto a piece as a glove mold and then peel it off. My
                          experience with thixotropic materials is I have to keep "painting" material
                          on until it starts to set up. Otherwise it drools and slowly runs off.
                          Therefore it has to be fast curing - a half hour is fine. It has to be
                          platinum base because I want to mold material that is inhibited by tin-based
                          silicone. It would be nice if it is transparent also so I can see the
                          thickness as I do it.

                          I've used other materials with the right properties and that worked but that
                          are not platinum based. They had these properties:
                          tear strength: 23 pli
                          elongation: 700%
                          tensile strength: 700 psi
                          shore hardness: 20-40

                          I've talked to Silicones Inc. They have a new product (XP-541) that might
                          work though they don't have any technical specs on it yet. They also
                          suggested using what I've been using otherwise, P-44, and adding thixotropic
                          and platinum accelerator additives.

                          Any other ideas?
                          thanks
                          Kozmo


                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Joseph L. Suttie III
                          http://www.smooth-on.com/silicones.asp#ecoflex Smooth-on is a source, they also make one that can be brushed on living creatures, you might have seen it on
                          Message 12 of 24 , Apr 17 11:58 AM
                            http://www.smooth-on.com/silicones.asp#ecoflex

                            Smooth-on is a source, they also make one that can be brushed on living
                            creatures, you might have seen it on myth-busters.

                            I use the mold max 30 for resin casting, and their 322 smooth cast for
                            the resin. 20 minute pot life is perfect for me. The faster set stuff
                            really sucks the life out of the molds, the heat build-up is the
                            culprit. . .

                            Kozmo wrote:

                            > I'm looking for a fast-cure, thixotropic, platinum addition cure silicone.
                            >
                            >
                            > I want to "paint" this onto a piece as a glove mold and then peel it
                            > off. My
                            > experience with thixotropic materials is I have to keep "painting"
                            > material
                            > on until it starts to set up. Otherwise it drools and slowly runs off.
                            > Therefore it has to be fast curing - a half hour is fine. It has to be
                            > platinum base because I want to mold material that is inhibited by
                            > tin-based
                            > silicone. It would be nice if it is transparent also so I can see the
                            > thickness as I do it.
                            >
                            > I've used other materials with the right properties and that worked
                            > but that
                            > are not platinum based. They had these properties:
                            > tear strength: 23 pli
                            > elongation: 700%
                            > tensile strength: 700 psi
                            > shore hardness: 20-40
                            >
                            > I've talked to Silicones Inc. They have a new product (XP-541) that might
                            > work though they don't have any technical specs on it yet. They also
                            > suggested using what I've been using otherwise, P-44, and adding
                            > thixotropic
                            > and platinum accelerator additives.
                            >
                            > Any other ideas?
                            > thanks
                            > Kozmo
                            >
                            >
                            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > SPONSORED LINKS
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                            >
                          • Petersheres@sprintmail.com
                            Try Polytek Platsil Gel 10, Plathix, and accelerator. See their website at www.polytek.com. Peter Sheres 407-718-9727 ... From:
                            Message 13 of 24 , Apr 17 12:28 PM
                              Try Polytek Platsil Gel 10, Plathix, and accelerator. See their website at www.polytek.com.

                              Peter Sheres
                              407-718-9727


                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: "Kozmo"<kozmo@...>
                              Sent: 4/17/06 2:40:25 PM
                              To: "casting@yahoogroups.com"<casting@yahoogroups.com>
                              Subject: [casting] Looking for fast cure thixotropic addition cure silicone

                              I'm looking for a fast-cure, thixotropic, platinum addition cure silicone.


                              I want to "paint" this onto a piece as a glove mold and then peel it off. My
                              experience with thixotropic materials is I have to keep "painting" material
                              on until it starts to set up. Otherwise it drools and slowly runs off.
                              Therefore it has to be fast curing - a half hour is fine. It has to be
                              platinum base because I want to mold material that is inhibited by tin-based
                              silicone. It would be nice if it is transparent also so I can see the
                              thickness as I do it.

                              I've used other materials with the right properties and that worked but that
                              are not platinum based. They had these properties:
                              tear strength: 23 pli
                              elongation: 700%
                              tensile strength: 700 psi
                              shore hardness: 20-40

                              I've talked to Silicones Inc. They have a new product (XP-541) that might
                              work though they don't have any technical specs on it yet. They also
                              suggested using what I've been using otherwise, P-44, and adding thixotropic
                              and platinum accelerator additives.


                              [Message truncated. Tap Edit->Mark for Download to get remaining portion.]
                            • Ray K.
                              I ve been talking to Shin-Etsu directly about their RTV products. Since they are pretty much one of the pioneers (GE and Dow are the others) in RTV, I really
                              Message 14 of 24 , Apr 17 2:24 PM
                                I've been talking to Shin-Etsu directly about their RTV products. Since they
                                are pretty much one of the pioneers (GE and Dow are the others) in RTV, I
                                really wanted to hear what they had to say.

                                In looking through their RTV brochure, there are several products that are
                                both transparent/translucent and that would easily fit the bill with some of
                                their thixotropic additives. They even have a WATER-Clear RTV!

                                www.rudolphbros.com is the distributor that I was referred to to purchase
                                products.

                                Ray

                                ----- Original Message -----
                                From: "Kozmo" <kozmo@...>
                                To: <casting@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 2:40 PM
                                Subject: [casting] Looking for fast cure thixotropic addition cure silicone


                                > I'm looking for a fast-cure, thixotropic, platinum addition cure silicone.
                                >
                                >
                                > I want to "paint" this onto a piece as a glove mold and then peel it off.
                                My
                                > experience with thixotropic materials is I have to keep "painting"
                                material
                                > on until it starts to set up. Otherwise it drools and slowly runs off.
                                > Therefore it has to be fast curing - a half hour is fine. It has to be
                                > platinum base because I want to mold material that is inhibited by
                                tin-based
                                > silicone. It would be nice if it is transparent also so I can see the
                                > thickness as I do it.
                                >
                                > I've used other materials with the right properties and that worked but
                                that
                                > are not platinum based. They had these properties:
                                > tear strength: 23 pli
                                > elongation: 700%
                                > tensile strength: 700 psi
                                > shore hardness: 20-40
                                >
                                > I've talked to Silicones Inc. They have a new product (XP-541) that might
                                > work though they don't have any technical specs on it yet. They also
                                > suggested using what I've been using otherwise, P-44, and adding
                                thixotropic
                                > and platinum accelerator additives.
                                >
                                > Any other ideas?
                                > thanks
                                > Kozmo
                                >
                                >
                                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > Yahoo! Groups Links
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                              • Mike Brose
                                A good second choice could be Polytek s Platsil 71-20 used with Plathix. I ve made numerous brush on molds with it. Not as fast as the Plasil Gel 10, but still
                                Message 15 of 24 , Apr 18 7:53 AM
                                  A good second choice could be Polytek's Platsil 71-20 used with Plathix.
                                  I've made numerous brush on molds with it. Not as fast as the Plasil Gel
                                  10, but still a pretty fast platinum RTV. It might have an accelerator
                                  too. Can't remember off the top of my head. Haven't needed it for the
                                  molds we made.

                                  Cheers,

                                  Mike Brose
                                  www.puppetsandprops.com


                                  On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 15:28:55 -0400 Petersheres@... writes:
                                  > Try Polytek Platsil Gel 10, Plathix, and accelerator. See their
                                  > website at www.polytek.com.
                                  >
                                  > Peter Sheres
                                  > 407-718-9727
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > -----Original Message-----
                                  > From: "Kozmo"<kozmo@...>
                                  > Sent: 4/17/06 2:40:25 PM
                                  > To: "casting@yahoogroups.com"<casting@yahoogroups.com>
                                  > Subject: [casting] Looking for fast cure thixotropic addition
                                  > cure silicone
                                  > I'm looking for a fast-cure, thixotropic, platinum addition cure
                                  > silicone.
                                • Rob de Bie
                                  ... Interesting! I am planning to try Smooth Cast 322 as my first PU resin, after years of working with epoxy. Since I m in no hurry, I prefer the long pot
                                  Message 16 of 24 , Apr 19 3:43 PM
                                    At 20:58 17-04-2006, you wrote:
                                    >http://www.smooth-on.com/silicones.asp#ecoflex
                                    >
                                    >Smooth-on is a source, they also make one that can be brushed on living
                                    >creatures, you might have seen it on myth-busters.
                                    >
                                    >I use the mold max 30 for resin casting, and their 322 smooth cast for
                                    >the resin. 20 minute pot life is perfect for me. The faster set stuff
                                    >really sucks the life out of the molds, the heat build-up is the
                                    >culprit. . .

                                    Interesting! I am planning to try Smooth Cast 322 as my first PU resin,
                                    after years of working with epoxy. Since I'm in no hurry, I prefer the long
                                    pot life and very small shrinkage of the 310 and 322 systems. Are there any
                                    drawbacks to these resins? I've heard a vague story of the resin absorbing
                                    water vapor during the long cure and bubbling, does that sound familiar?
                                    Any other experiences are very welcome.

                                    Rob
                                  • Gary Woodard
                                    Hi Rob, I use Smoothcast 321, and have had very little problem with it, usual problems is I let the stuff sit too long on the shelf, remember that this stuff
                                    Message 17 of 24 , Apr 20 2:41 AM
                                      Hi Rob,

                                      I use Smoothcast 321, and have had very little problem with it, usual problems is I let the stuff sit too long on the shelf, remember that this stuff does have a shelf life that isn't very long..............:o)

                                      Gary W




                                      We have winners, we have losers, we have chain smokers and boozers at Sinkhole Lounge at http://www.kbdixon.com/gary/gary.htm

                                      ---------------------------------
                                      Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    • Rob de Bie
                                      Hi Gary. ... Thanks for your comments on 321. It s either 321 or 322 that I will try. Rob
                                      Message 18 of 24 , Apr 22 7:35 AM
                                        Hi Gary.

                                        > I use Smoothcast 321, and have had very little problem with it, usual
                                        > problems is I let the stuff sit too long on the shelf, remember that this
                                        > stuff does have a shelf life that isn't very long..............:o)

                                        Thanks for your comments on 321. It's either 321 or 322 that I will try.

                                        Rob
                                      • Gary Woodard
                                        Hi Rob, I like a little slower setting resin myself, so the 321 is perfect for me, it allows me to fill several molds at once without setting up in the mixing
                                        Message 19 of 24 , Apr 22 5:21 PM
                                          Hi Rob,

                                          I like a little slower setting resin myself, so the 321 is perfect for me, it allows me to fill several molds at once without setting up in the mixing cup, some of my two part molds are hard to fill if the resin is suddenly gelling too fast, so the stuff with about a 7 minute pot life is just right, but I also don't want to wait 24 hours to demold either..........:o)


                                          Gary W




                                          We have winners, we have losers, we have chain smokers and boozers at Sinkhole Lounge at http://www.kbdixon.com/gary/gary.htm

                                          ---------------------------------
                                          Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

                                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        • Mike Brose
                                          You can also heat your pressure pot (or put the mold in a hot box if not using a pressure pot) to shorten the cycle time on resins that have a longer pot
                                          Message 20 of 24 , Apr 24 1:23 PM
                                            You can also heat your pressure pot (or put the mold in a 'hot box' if
                                            not using a pressure pot) to shorten the cycle time on resins that have a
                                            longer pot life.

                                            Cheers,

                                            Mike Brose
                                            www.puppetsandprops.com



                                            On Sat, 22 Apr 2006 17:21:44 -0700 (PDT) Gary Woodard
                                            <betsy662@...> writes:
                                            > Hi Rob,
                                            >
                                            > I like a little slower setting resin myself, so the 321 is perfect
                                            > for me, it allows me to fill several molds at once without setting
                                            > up in the mixing cup, some of my two part molds are hard to fill if
                                            > the resin is suddenly gelling too fast, so the stuff with about a 7
                                            > minute pot life is just right, but I also don't want to wait 24
                                            > hours to demold either..........:o)
                                            >
                                            >
                                            > Gary W
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