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Re: [capri26] Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

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  • sailorartman
    I forgot to mention that disposable diapers work great to catch extra fuel when working on the system. Also as I recall there is a fuel shut off at the tank.
    Message 1 of 15 , Sep 23, 2013
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      I forgot to mention that disposable diapers work great to catch extra fuel when working on the system. Also as I recall there is a fuel shut off at the tank.
    • Peter Galizia
      I did pretty much everything Art said and was successful. The thing I d add was the pump was kind of a pain for me to deal with. So I stopped using it, after
      Message 2 of 15 , Sep 23, 2013
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        I did pretty much everything Art said and was successful. The thing I'd add was the pump was kind of a pain for me to deal with. So I stopped using it, after the first flush. I just used a long enough extension hose to run into my waste can and pushed the fuel out by pushing in the fuel fill port with the discharge side of a shop vac. Either way, but you may find the vacuum is easier than a pump.
        Pete


        From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
        To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 2:43 PM
        Subject: Re: [capri26] Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

        Although you may have changed the fuel filter, it still sounds like a fuel problem. Sea Belle did the same thing when I got her. The biggest cause of diesel engine problems is fuel. If you don't have you should have a sediment filter on the fuel system just down stream of the tank. The next protection is a filter/strainer on the fuel pump that can be removed and cleaned out. It look like part of the pump. Then it all goes to the fuel filter and then the injectors.
         
        The first thing I would do is to drain the fuel tank. Add biocide ( fuel stabilizer - I would used 3 or 4 times the recommended rate, based on total fuel in the tank) mixed in a gallon of fuel to shock the system.  Rock the boat to mix it and let it stand for about 24 hours to do its work. Remove a fuel line upstream from the first filer and install a pump such as an oil changing pump
        Pump out ALL of the fuel and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it. If you are using a clear tube you will see all the growth in the fuel). Once it is empty, add about two gallons of fresh fuel ( with biocide) and let it perk for another day. Then pump out the two gallons and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it.
         
        Next change out the sediment filter, then disassemble the fuel pump filter and clean it and reassemble. Finally replace the engine fuel filter. Add about 5 gallons of fresh fuel and fire up the engine to bleed out any air in the system. If the boat has been sitting for any length of time 2-3 years this is the first place to look to solve the problem.
         
        Outside of that you may need to change out the fuel pump, but I would start with the fuel tank first. Below is an exert from a past mainsheet article and I have attached a second one for your review.
         
         
        Let me know if this helps
         
        Art Harden
         
         
         
         
         
        The inboard engines used in the Capri are a remanufactured 10 HP Kubota diesel engine provided by Universal. They are great little power plants and can push the boat at hull speed using only 0.5 gallons per hour. If your 21 year only diesel tank has never been purged, then it is probably overdue. Water and biological growth in the tank is generally the first thing to go wrong with a diesel. An engine with 1,000 hours is equivalent to a car with about 35,000 miles from an hour’s standpoint. Maintenance is critical to the life of the engine, and both oil and fuel filters should be changed regularly. You should maintain a detailed log of all of the work. The fuel pump at 21 years of age may be on the down side of its life, but the key is how many total hours on the engine. Before running out and buying a new pump, check all the filters. As for filters, the original design has a screen filter in the primary electric pump and then a canister (spin on type) filter on the engine.
        06-10-11 Capri 26 Tech Photo#1
        To really protect the system, you should have an additional water/sediment filter between the fuel tank and the primary fuel pump. This was not a stock item so some boats may not have one installed.
         
        In a message dated 9/23/2013 1:35:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rferre2000@... writes:
         
        Thanks again everyone for helping this "new guy" prepare for winter for our "new" 1993 C26 at a new home in Lake Tahoe.

        BRIEF HISTORY:  Since moving the boat to Tahoe at the end of May 2013, a stalling problem has been slowly developing to the point of needing a tow yesterday.  Being a diesel neophyte, I assumed it needed to tuning because we moved from sea level to 6200ft elevation, but was told this may not be the case.

        The first "fix" was a very dirty air filter.  I cleaned it and it seemed to run pretty well for several weeks, then the problem started creeping up again. 

        After a significant episode in a heavy wind last weekend, we changed fuel filter and added 8 gal of fresh diesel which didn't seem to help (the symptoms described below repeated).

        < div>SYMPTOMS
        Starts up fine, and seems to run fine under 2000 RPMs for at 20-30 minutes to get clear of the harbor area.  If I run it much longer than that, the RPM's start to slowly taper off and it eventually stalls (adding throttle to raise the RPM's tends to expedite the stalling).  If I wait about 30-60 seconds it starts up again it runs reasonably wel about 5 minutes then the process repeats.

        The problem seems to be a little worse if I run it above 2000RPM and/or the water is choppy, though chop isn't always a factor.  It is probably more a function of the RPM.

        Perhaps it is time for a professional (my wife's preference since she doesn't want to be caught again stalling approaching the shallow and rocky harbor entrance).  Tahoe winds and waves can be very challenging (last weekend we saw 32kt gusts registered).

        < div>SUSPECTS:  (it is the Universal model M2-12)

        Fuel pump?  When we bled the system after changing the filter, it took a long time for the pump to push anything through the bleed valve.  In fact, it never really bled until we turned the engine over a few times then re-bled.  Finally it sputtered the expected air and fuel.   It doesn't appear the fuel pump has ever been replaced.  It seems to be the next logical step, except that my wife doesn't want to chance it (her way of saying she doesn't trust me :-). 

        Something in the tank getting stirred up?  Possible. Not sure how to deal with this.  I have made an inquiry with these guys to see if they offer this service in the area http://dieselfueldoctor.com/contact.html  (waiting for a response)

        Collapsed fuel line?  No indication of this.  Lines look good from the outside and lack any apparent deterioration.

        Injectors?  Possible. Of course, I am not confident in my ability to correct this. (the manual suggests a professional)

        Overheating?  There is seaweed in the harbor and channel area, which rapidly collects in the sea strainer. The engine temp light hasn't come on AND there seems to be water coming out of the discharge, so it isn't completely blocked. Could the restricted water flow possibly overheat the engine slightly and affect the fuel air mix?

        Air Flow?  This was an early suspect.  In fact the first time we had a serious problem out on the water (a long motoring trip).  I took of the engine cover and opened the windows, which seemed to help - at least we got to our destination.  While at anchor, I opened the air filter cover and the filter was terribly dirty.  I rotated the filter and it ran fine for a few weeks.  It seems the intake for this filter is too small and prone to clogging.

        SUMMARY:
        Sorry for the long note.  If anyone can shed any light on any or all of these factors, I would appreciate it.  Whether I take it on myself, or need to manage a "professional" (if I can find one in the area), your insight will be valuable.

        Thanks,
        Randy

        Kia Ora  #285












      • J Papas
        Two years ago I had the same issue,  my diesel was stalling. I followed the instructions of Art. Installed a secondary filter on the fuel system just down
        Message 3 of 15 , Sep 23, 2013
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          Two years ago I had the same issue,  my diesel was stalling. I followed the instructions of Art. Installed a secondary filter on the fuel system just down stream of the tank, and it has been smooth sailing since then.
           
          Best of luck.
          Jim
          Odyessey hull 206

          From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
          To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 3:43:52 PM
          Subject: Re: [capri26] Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

          Although you may have changed the fuel filter, it still sounds like a fuel problem. Sea Belle did the same thing when I got her. The biggest cause of diesel engine problems is fuel. If you don't have you should have a sediment filter on the fuel system just down stream of the tank. The next protection is a filter/strainer on the fuel pump that can be removed and cleaned out. It look like part of the pump. Then it all goes to the fuel filter and then the injectors.
           
          The first thing I would do is to drain the fuel tank. Add biocide ( fuel stabilizer - I would used 3 or 4 times the recommended rate, based on total fuel in the tank) mixed in a gallon of fuel to shock the system.  Rock the boat to mix it and let it stand for about 24 hours to do its work. Remove a fuel line upstream from the first filer and install a pump such as an oil changing pump
          Pump out ALL of the fuel and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it. If you are using a clear tube you will see all the growth in the fuel). Once it is empty, add about two gallons of fresh fuel ( with biocide) and let it perk for another day. Then pump out the two gallons and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it.
           
          Next change out the sediment filter, then disassemble the fuel pump filter and clean it and reassemble. Finally replace the engine fuel filter. Add about 5 gallons of fresh fuel and fire up the engine to bleed out any air in the system. If the boat has been sitting for any length of time 2-3 years this is the first place to look to solve the problem.
           
          Outside of that you may need to change out the fuel pump, but I would start with the fuel tank first. Below is an exert from a past mainsheet article and I have attached a second one for your review.
           
           
          Let me know if this helps
           
          Art Harden
           
           
           
           
           
          The inboard engines used in the Capri are a remanufactured 10 HP Kubota diesel engine provided by Universal. They are great little power plants and can push the boat at hull speed using only 0.5 gallons per hour. If your 21 year only diesel tank has never been purged, then it is probably overdue. Water and biological growth in the tank is generally the first thing to go wrong with a diesel. An engine with 1,000 hours is equivalent to a car with about 35,000 miles from an hour’s standpoint. Maintenance is critical to the life of the engine, and both oil and fuel filters should be changed regularly. You should maintain a detailed log of all of the work. The fuel pump at 21 years of age may be on the down side of its life, but the key is how many total hours on the engine. Before running out and buying a new pump, check all the filters. As for filters, the original design has a screen filter in the primary electric pump and then a canister (spin on type) filter on the engine.
          06-10-11 Capri 26 Tech Photo#1
          To really protect the system, you should have an additional water/sediment filter between the fuel tank and the primary fuel pump. This was not a stock item so some boats may not have one installed.
           
          In a message dated 9/23/2013 1:35:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rferre2000@... writes:
           
          Thanks again everyone for helping this "new guy" prepare for winter for our "new" 1993 C26 at a new home in Lake Tahoe.

          BRIEF HISTORY:  Since moving the boat to Tahoe at the end of May 2013, a stalling problem has been slowly developing to the point of needing a tow yesterday.  Being a diesel neophyte, I assumed it needed to tuning because we moved from sea level to 6200ft elevation, but was told this may not be the case.

          The first "fix" was a very dirty air filter.  I cleaned it and it seemed to run pretty well for several weeks, then the problem started creeping up again. 

          After a significant episode in a heavy wind last weekend, we changed fuel filter and added 8 gal of fresh diesel which didn't seem to help (the symptoms described below repeated).

          < div>SYMPTOMS
          Starts up fine, and seems to run fine under 2000 RPMs for at 20-30 minutes to get clear of the harbor area.  If I run it much longer than that, the RPM's start to slowly taper off and it eventually stalls (adding throttle to raise the RPM's tends to expedite the stalling).  If I wait about 30-60 seconds it starts up again it runs reasonably wel about 5 minutes then the process repeats.

          The problem seems to be a little worse if I run it above 2000RPM and/or the water is choppy, though chop isn't always a factor.  It is probably more a function of the RPM.

          Perhaps it is time for a professional (my wife's preference since she doesn't want to be caught again stalling approaching the shallow and rocky harbor entrance).  Tahoe winds and waves can be very challenging (last weekend we saw 32kt gusts registered).

          < div>SUSPECTS:  (it is the Universal model M2-12)

          Fuel pump?  When we bled the system after changing the filter, it took a long time for the pump to push anything through the bleed valve.  In fact, it never really bled until we turned the engine over a few times then re-bled.  Finally it sputtered the expected air and fuel.   It doesn't appear the fuel pump has ever been replaced.  It seems to be the next logical step, except that my wife doesn't want to chance it (her way of saying she doesn't trust me :-). 

          Something in the tank getting stirred up?  Possible. Not sure how to deal with this.  I have made an inquiry with these guys to see if they offer this service in the area http://dieselfueldoctor.com/contact.html  (waiting for a response)

          Collapsed fuel line?  No indication of this.  Lines look good from the outside and lack any apparent deterioration.

          Injectors?  Possible. Of course, I am not confident in my ability to correct this. (the manual suggests a professional)

          Overheating?  There is seaweed in the harbor and channel area, which rapidly collects in the sea strainer. The engine temp light hasn't come on AND there seems to be water coming out of the discharge, so it isn't completely blocked. Could the restricted water flow possibly overheat the engine slightly and affect the fuel air mix?

          Air Flow?  This was an early suspect.  In fact the first time we had a serious problem out on the water (a long motoring trip).  I took of the engine cover and opened the windows, which seemed to help - at least we got to our destination.  While at anchor, I opened the air filter cover and the filter was terribly dirty.  I rotated the filter and it ran fine for a few weeks.  It seems the intake for this filter is too small and prone to clogging.

          SUMMARY:
          Sorry for the long note.  If anyone can shed any light on any or all of these factors, I would appreciate it.  Whether I take it on myself, or need to manage a "professional" (if I can find one in the area), your insight will be valuable.

          Thanks,
          Randy

          Kia Ora  #285












        • rferre2000
          Once again, thank you very much Art and J. Great tips. --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, wrote: Two years ago I had the same issue, my
          Message 4 of 15 , Sep 23, 2013
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            Once again, thank you very much Art and J.   Great tips.



            --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

            Two years ago I had the same issue,  my diesel was stalling. I followed the instructions of Art. Installed a secondary filter on the fuel system just down stream of the tank, and it has been smooth sailing since then.
             
            Best of luck.
            Jim
            Odyessey hull 206

            From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 3:43:52 PM
            Subject: Re: [capri26] Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

            Although you may have changed the fuel filter, it still sounds like a fuel problem. Sea Belle did the same thing when I got her. The biggest cause of diesel engine problems is fuel. If you don't have you should have a sediment filter on the fuel system just down stream of the tank. The next protection is a filter/strainer on the fuel pump that can be removed and cleaned out. It look like part of the pump. Then it all goes to the fuel filter and then the injectors.
             
            The first thing I would do is to drain the fuel tank. Add biocide ( fuel stabilizer - I would used 3 or 4 times the recommended rate, based on total fuel in the tank) mixed in a gallon of fuel to shock the system.  Rock the boat to mix it and let it stand for about 24 hours to do its work. Remove a fuel line upstream from the first filer and install a pump such as an oil changing pump
            Pump out ALL of the fuel and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it. If you are using a clear tube you will see all the growth in the fuel). Once it is empty, add about two gallons of fresh fuel ( with biocide) and let it perk for another day. Then pump out the two gallons and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it.
             
            Next change out the sediment filter, then disassemble the fuel pump filter and clean it and reassemble. Finally replace the engine fuel filter. Add about 5 gallons of fresh fuel and fire up the engine to bleed out any air in the system. If the boat has been sitting for any length of time 2-3 years this is the first place to look to solve the problem.
             
            Outside of that you may need to change out the fuel pump, but I would start with the fuel tank first. Below is an exert from a past mainsheet article and I have attached a second one for your review.
             
             
            Let me know if this helps
             
            Art Harden
             
             
             
             
             
            The inboard engines used in the Capri are a remanufactured 10 HP Kubota diesel engine provided by Universal. They are great little power plants and can push the boat at hull speed using only 0.5 gallons per hour. If your 21 year only diesel tank has never been purged, then it is probably overdue. Water and biological growth in the tank is generally the first thing to go wrong with a diesel. An engine with 1,000 hours is equivalent to a car with about 35,000 miles from an hour’s standpoint. Maintenance is critical to the life of the engine, and both oil and fuel filters should be changed regularly. You should maintain a detailed log of all of the work. The fuel pump at 21 years of age may be on the down side of its life, but the key is how many total hours on the engine. Before running out and buying a new pump, check all the filters. As for filters, the original design has a screen filter in the primary electric pump and then a canister (spin on type) filter on the engine.
            06-10-11 Capri 26 Tech Photo#1
            To really protect the system, you should have an additional water/sediment filter between the fuel tank and the primary fuel pump. This was not a stock item so some boats may not have one installed.
             
            In a message dated 9/23/2013 1:35:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rferre2000@... writes:
             
            Thanks again everyone for helping this "new guy" prepare for winter for our "new" 1993 C26 at a new home in Lake Tahoe.

            BRIEF HISTORY:  Since moving the boat to Tahoe at the end of May 2013, a stalling problem has been slowly developing to the point of needing a tow yesterday.  Being a diesel neophyte, I assumed it needed to tuning because we moved from sea level to 6200ft elevation, but was told this may not be the case.

            The first "fix" was a very dirty air filter.  I cleaned it and it seemed to run pretty well for several weeks, then the problem started creeping up again. 

            After a significant episode in a heavy wind last weekend, we changed fuel filter and added 8 gal of fresh diesel which didn't seem to help (the symptoms described below repeated).

            < div>SYMPTOMS
            Starts up fine, and seems to run fine under 2000 RPMs for at 20-30 minutes to get clear of the harbor area.  If I run it much longer than that, the RPM's start to slowly taper off and it eventually stalls (adding throttle to raise the RPM's tends to expedite the stalling).  If I wait about 30-60 seconds it starts up again it runs reasonably wel about 5 minutes then the process repeats.

            The problem seems to be a little worse if I run it above 2000RPM and/or the water is choppy, though chop isn't always a factor.  It is probably more a function of the RPM.

            Perhaps it is time for a professional (my wife's preference since she doesn't want to be caught again stalling approaching the shallow and rocky harbor entrance).  Tahoe winds and waves can be very challenging (last weekend we saw 32kt gusts registered).

            < div>SUSPECTS:  (it is the Universal model M2-12)

            Fuel pump?  When we bled the system after changing the filter, it took a long time for the pump to push anything through the bleed valve.  In fact, it never really bled until we turned the engine over a few times then re-bled.  Finally it sputtered the expected air and fuel.   It doesn't appear the fuel pump has ever been replaced.  It seems to be the next logical step, except that my wife doesn't want to chance it (her way of saying she doesn't trust me :-). 

            Something in the tank getting stirred up?  Possible. Not sure how to deal with this.  I have made an inquiry with these guys to see if they offer this service in the area http://dieselfueldoctor.com/contact.html  (waiting for a response)

            Collapsed fuel line?  No indication of this.  Lines look good from the outside and lack any apparent deterioration.

            Injectors?  Possible. Of course, I am not confident in my ability to correct this. (the manual suggests a professional)

            Overheating?  There is seaweed in the harbor and channel area, which rapidly collects in the sea strainer. The engine temp light hasn't come on AND there seems to be water coming out of the discharge, so it isn't completely blocked. Could the restricted water flow possibly overheat the engine slightly and affect the fuel air mix?

            Air Flow?  This was an early suspect.  In fact the first time we had a serious problem out on the water (a long motoring trip).  I took of the engine cover and opened the windows, which seemed to help - at least we got to our destination.  While at anchor, I opened the air filter cover and the filter was terribly dirty.  I rotated the filter and it ran fine for a few weeks.  It seems the intake for this filter is too small and prone to clogging.

            SUMMARY:
            Sorry for the long note.  If anyone can shed any light on any or all of these factors, I would appreciate it.  Whether I take it on myself, or need to manage a "professional" (if I can find one in the area), your insight will be valuable.

            Thanks,
            Randy

            Kia Ora  #285












          • rferre2000
            Thank you too Peter. I reread the post and noticed I had missed your name. ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, wrote: Once again, thank
            Message 5 of 15 , Sep 24, 2013
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              Thank you too Peter.  I reread the post and noticed I had missed your name. 



              ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

              Once again, thank you very much Art and J.   Great tips.



              --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

              Two years ago I had the same issue,  my diesel was stalling. I followed the instructions of Art. Installed a secondary filter on the fuel system just down stream of the tank, and it has been smooth sailing since then.
               
              Best of luck.
              Jim
              Odyessey hull 206

              From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
              To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 3:43:52 PM
              Subject: Re: [capri26] Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

              Although you may have changed the fuel filter, it still sounds like a fuel problem. Sea Belle did the same thing when I got her. The biggest cause of diesel engine problems is fuel. If you don't have you should have a sediment filter on the fuel system just down stream of the tank. The next protection is a filter/strainer on the fuel pump that can be removed and cleaned out. It look like part of the pump. Then it all goes to the fuel filter and then the injectors.
               
              The first thing I would do is to drain the fuel tank. Add biocide ( fuel stabilizer - I would used 3 or 4 times the recommended rate, based on total fuel in the tank) mixed in a gallon of fuel to shock the system.  Rock the boat to mix it and let it stand for about 24 hours to do its work. Remove a fuel line upstream from the first filer and install a pump such as an oil changing pump
              Pump out ALL of the fuel and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it. If you are using a clear tube you will see all the growth in the fuel). Once it is empty, add about two gallons of fresh fuel ( with biocide) and let it perk for another day. Then pump out the two gallons and dispose of it. DO NOT try to filter it and reuse it.
               
              Next change out the sediment filter, then disassemble the fuel pump filter and clean it and reassemble. Finally replace the engine fuel filter. Add about 5 gallons of fresh fuel and fire up the engine to bleed out any air in the system. If the boat has been sitting for any length of time 2-3 years this is the first place to look to solve the problem.
               
              Outside of that you may need to change out the fuel pump, but I would start with the fuel tank first. Below is an exert from a past mainsheet article and I have attached a second one for your review.
               
               
              Let me know if this helps
               
              Art Harden
               
               
               
               
               
              The inboard engines used in the Capri are a remanufactured 10 HP Kubota diesel engine provided by Universal. They are great little power plants and can push the boat at hull speed using only 0.5 gallons per hour. If your 21 year only diesel tank has never been purged, then it is probably overdue. Water and biological growth in the tank is generally the first thing to go wrong with a diesel. An engine with 1,000 hours is equivalent to a car with about 35,000 miles from an hour’s standpoint. Maintenance is critical to the life of the engine, and both oil and fuel filters should be changed regularly. You should maintain a detailed log of all of the work. The fuel pump at 21 years of age may be on the down side of its life, but the key is how many total hours on the engine. Before running out and buying a new pump, check all the filters. As for filters, the original design has a screen filter in the primary electric pump and then a canister (spin on type) filter on the engine.
              06-10-11 Capri 26 Tech Photo#1
              To really protect the system, you should have an additional water/sediment filter between the fuel tank and the primary fuel pump. This was not a stock item so some boats may not have one installed.
               
              In a message dated 9/23/2013 1:35:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rferre2000@... writes:
               
              Thanks again everyone for helping this "new guy" prepare for winter for our "new" 1993 C26 at a new home in Lake Tahoe.

              BRIEF HISTORY:  Since moving the boat to Tahoe at the end of May 2013, a stalling problem has been slowly developing to the point of needing a tow yesterday.  Being a diesel neophyte, I assumed it needed to tuning because we moved from sea level to 6200ft elevation, but was told this may not be the case.

              The first "fix" was a very dirty air filter.  I cleaned it and it seemed to run pretty well for several weeks, then the problem started creeping up again. 

              After a significant episode in a heavy wind last weekend, we changed fuel filter and added 8 gal of fresh diesel which didn't seem to help (the symptoms described below repeated).

              < div>SYMPTOMS
              Starts up fine, and seems to run fine under 2000 RPMs for at 20-30 minutes to get clear of the harbor area.  If I run it much longer than that, the RPM's start to slowly taper off and it eventually stalls (adding throttle to raise the RPM's tends to expedite the stalling).  If I wait about 30-60 seconds it starts up again it runs reasonably wel about 5 minutes then the process repeats.

              The problem seems to be a little worse if I run it above 2000RPM and/or the water is choppy, though chop isn't always a factor.  It is probably more a function of the RPM.

              Perhaps it is time for a professional (my wife's preference since she doesn't want to be caught again stalling approaching the shallow and rocky harbor entrance).  Tahoe winds and waves can be very challenging (last weekend we saw 32kt gusts registered).

              < div>SUSPECTS:  (it is the Universal model M2-12)

              Fuel pump?  When we bled the system after changing the filter, it took a long time for the pump to push anything through the bleed valve.  In fact, it never really bled until we turned the engine over a few times then re-bled.  Finally it sputtered the expected air and fuel.   It doesn't appear the fuel pump has ever been replaced.  It seems to be the next logical step, except that my wife doesn't want to chance it (her way of saying she doesn't trust me :-). 

              Something in the tank getting stirred up?  Possible. Not sure how to deal with this.  I have made an inquiry with these guys to see if they offer this service in the area http://dieselfueldoctor.com/contact.html  (waiting for a response)

              Collapsed fuel line?  No indication of this.  Lines look good from the outside and lack any apparent deterioration.

              Injectors?  Possible. Of course, I am not confident in my ability to correct this. (the manual suggests a professional)

              Overheating?  There is seaweed in the harbor and channel area, which rapidly collects in the sea strainer. The engine temp light hasn't come on AND there seems to be water coming out of the discharge, so it isn't completely blocked. Could the restricted water flow possibly overheat the engine slightly and affect the fuel air mix?

              Air Flow?  This was an early suspect.  In fact the first time we had a serious problem out on the water (a long motoring trip).  I took of the engine cover and opened the windows, which seemed to help - at least we got to our destination.  While at anchor, I opened the air filter cover and the filter was terribly dirty.  I rotated the filter and it ran fine for a few weeks.  It seems the intake for this filter is too small and prone to clogging.

              SUMMARY:
              Sorry for the long note.  If anyone can shed any light on any or all of these factors, I would appreciate it.  Whether I take it on myself, or need to manage a "professional" (if I can find one in the area), your insight will be valuable.

              Thanks,
              Randy

              Kia Ora  #285












            • Randall Ferre
              Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace
              Message 6 of 15 , Sep 29, 2013
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                Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                Thanks
              • azsailor12
                Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422
                Message 7 of 15 , Sep 30, 2013
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                  Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation:


                  http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422


                  By searching the Racor number on the side, you may be able to find it elsewhere for cheaper.  There should be room to mount it back by the tank.


                  John



                  ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                  Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                  I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                  Thanks
                • rferre2000
                  I purchased the Racor, which is a pretty large unit. I had pictured installing it under the engine cover somewhere, but it is tight (I will post a couple of
                  Message 8 of 15 , Oct 20, 2013
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                    I purchased the Racor, which is a pretty large unit.  I had pictured installing it under the engine cover somewhere, but it is tight (I will post a couple of photos),   As John suggested, I will look back by the tank.  Art had also suggested "downstream" from the tank too.


                    If anyone can provide any additional details about where/how to mount it, I would appreciate it.  As you can see from John's link, http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422  it seems best to install in a place that can be monitored and serviced..


                    Of course, I welcome any other suggestions about alternative separators/filters.



                    ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation:


                    http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422


                    By searching the Racor number on the side, you may be able to find it elsewhere for cheaper.  There should be room to mount it back by the tank.


                    John



                    ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                    I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                    Thanks
                  • Dave Kautz
                    #248 has a Racor 30 micron filter installed in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. It is mounted at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the
                    Message 9 of 15 , Oct 21, 2013
                    #248 has a Racor 30 micron filter installed in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. It is mounted at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the muffler, and fits under the engine cover. I've attached a picture to this email, but if it gets stripped by the yahoogroups software email me directly at dkautz@... and I will send the picture to you.

                    Dave


                    From: "rferre2000@..." <rferre2000@...>
                    To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:43 PM
                    Subject: [capri26] RE: RE: Re: Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

                     
                    I purchased the Racor, which is a pretty large unit.  I had pictured installing it under the engine cover somewhere, but it is tight (I will post a couple of photos),   As John suggested, I will look back by the tank.  Art had also suggested "downstream" from the tank too.

                    If anyone can provide any additional details about where/how to mount it, I would appreciate it.  As you can see from John's link, http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422  it seems best to install in a place that can be monitored and serviced..

                    Of course, I welcome any other suggestions about alternative separators/filters.


                    ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation:

                    http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422

                    By searching the Racor number on the side, you may be able to find it elsewhere for cheaper.&! nbsp; There should be room to mount it back by the tank.

                    John


                    ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                    I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                    Thanks


                  • Mike Gurley
                    Dave: Your primary filter is mounted on the bulkhead between the engine and head. Mine is mounted on the engine. Did you move yours to the bulkhead? If so,
                    Message 10 of 15 , Oct 21, 2013
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                      Dave:
                      Your primary filter is mounted on the bulkhead between the engine and head.  Mine is mounted on the engine.  Did you move yours to the bulkhead?  If so, why?  Mike G

                      Sent from my iPad

                      On Oct 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Dave Kautz <dkautz@...> wrote:

                       

                      #248 has a Racor 30 micron filter installed in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. It is mounted at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the muffler, and fits under the engine cover. I've attached a picture to this email, but if it gets stripped by the yahoogroups software email me directly at dkautz@... and I will send the picture to you.

                      Dave


                      From: "rferre2000@..." <rferre2000@...>
                      To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:43 PM
                      Subject: [capri26] RE: RE: Re: Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

                       
                      I purchased the Racor, which is a pretty large unit.  I had pictured installing it under the engine cover somewhere, but it is tight (I will post a couple of photos),   As John suggested, I will look back by the tank.  Art had also suggested "downstream" from the tank too.

                      If anyone can provide any additional details about where/how to mount it, I would appreciate it.  As you can see from John's link, http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422  it seems best to install in a place that can be monitored and serviced..

                      Of course, I welcome any other suggestions about alternative separators/filters.


                      ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                      Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation:


                      By searching the Racor number on the side, you may be able to find it elsewhere for cheaper.&! nbsp; There should be room to mount it back by the tank.

                      John


                      ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                      Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                      I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                      Thanks


                    • Dave Kautz
                      The one on the bulkhead is the pre-filter/water separator, there is a second filter (10 micron) mounted on the engine. I bought the boat used and this is how
                      Message 11 of 15 , Oct 21, 2013
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                        The one on the bulkhead is the pre-filter/water separator, there is a second filter (10 micron) mounted on the engine. I bought the boat used and this is how it was configured by a previous owner.

                        Dave


                        From: Mike Gurley <recess12@...>
                        To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                        Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 9:51 AM
                        Subject: Re: [capri26] RE: RE: Re: Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

                         
                        Dave:
                        Your primary filter is mounted on the bulkhead between the engine and head.  Mine is mounted on the engine.  Did you move yours to the bulkhead?  If so, why?  Mike G

                        Sent from my iPad

                        On Oct 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Dave Kautz <dkautz@...> wrote:

                         
                        #248 has a Racor 30 micron filter installed in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. It is mounted at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the muffler, and fits under the engine cover. I've attached a picture to this email, but if it gets stripped by the yahoogroups software email me directly at dkautz@... and I will send the picture to you.

                        Dave


                        From: "rferre2000@..." <rferre2000@...>
                        To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:43 PM
                        Subject: [capri26] RE: RE: Re: Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

                         
                        I purchased the Racor, which is a pretty large unit.  I had pictured installing it under the engine cover somewhere, but it is tight (I will post a couple of photos),   As John suggested, I will look back by the tank.  Art had also suggested "downstream" from the tank too.

                        If anyone can provide any additional details about where/how to mount it, I would appreciate it.  As you can see from John's link, http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422  it seems best to install in a place that can be monitored and serviced..

                        Of course, I welcome any other suggestions about alternative separators/filters.


                        ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                        Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation:


                        By searching the Racor number on the side, you may be able to find it elsewhere for cheaper.&! nbsp; There should be room to mount it back by the tank.

                        John


                        ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                        Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                        I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                        Thanks




                      • rferre2000
                        Thank you Dave. This is what I was thinking. Just a one more quick question... I am guessing you used through bolts? (e.g. all the way through about 1.5-2
                        Message 12 of 15 , Oct 24, 2013
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                          Thank you Dave.  This is what I was thinking.  Just a one more quick question...   I am guessing you used through bolts?  (e.g. all the way through about 1.5-2 inches?) ,  I just don't want to damage anything that might be inside of that cross member.



                          ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                          #248 has a Racor 30 micron filter installed in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. It is mounted at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the muffler, and fits under the engine cover. I've attached a picture to this email, but if it gets stripped by the yahoogroups software email me directly at dkautz@... and I will send the picture to you.

                          Dave


                          From: "rferre2000@..." <rferre2000@...>
                          To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:43 PM
                          Subject: [capri26] RE: RE: Re: Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

                           
                          I purchased the Racor, which is a pretty large unit.  I had pictured installing it under the engine cover somewhere, but it is tight (I will post a couple of photos),   As John suggested, I will look back by the tank.  Art had also suggested "downstream" from the tank too.

                          If anyone can provide any additional details about where/how to mount it, I would appreciate it.  As you can see from John's link, http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422  it seems best to install in a place that can be monitored and serviced..

                          Of course, I welcome any other suggestions about alternative separators/filters.


                          ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                          Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation:

                          http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422

                          By searching the Racor number on the side, you may be able to find it elsewhere for cheaper.&! nbsp; There should be room to mount it back by the tank.

                          John


                          ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                          Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                          I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                          Thanks


                        • Dave Kautz
                          I didn t do the install myself, but there are fender washers and nuts on the back side. Dave ________________________________ From: rferre2000@yahoo.com
                          Message 13 of 15 , Oct 24, 2013
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                            I didn't do the install myself, but there are fender washers and nuts on the back side.

                            Dave


                            From: "rferre2000@..." <rferre2000@...>
                            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 7:11 PM
                            Subject: RE: Re: [capri26] RE: RE: Re: Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

                             
                            Thank you Dave.  This is what I was thinking.  Just a one more quick question...   I am guessing you used through bolts?  (e.g. all the way through about 1.5-2 inches?) ,  I just don't want to damage anything that might be inside of that cross member.


                            ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                            #248 has a Racor 30 micron filter installed in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. It is mounted at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the muffler, and fits under the engine cover. I've attached a picture to this email, but if it gets stripped by the yahoogroups software email me directly at dkautz@... and I will send the picture to you.

                            Dave


                            From: "rferre2000@..." <rferre2000@...>
                            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:43 PM
                            Subject: [capri26] RE: RE: Re: Diesel Engine Stalling (Universal 10hp)

                             
                            I purchased the Racor, which is a pretty large unit.  I had pictured installing it under the engine cover somewhere, but it is tight (I will post a couple of photos),   As John suggested, I will look back by the tank.  Art had also suggested "downstream" from the tank too.

                            If anyone can provide any additional details about where/how to mount it, I would appreciate it.  As you can see from John's link, http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422  it seems best to install in a place that can be monitored and serviced..

                            Of course, I welcome any other suggestions about alternative separators/filters.


                            ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                            Catalina Direct has a Racor that also does water separation:

                            http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2468&ParentCat=422

                            By searching the Racor number on the side, you may be able to find it elsewhere for cheaper.&! nbsp; There should be room to mount it back by the tank.

                            John


                            ---In capri26@yahoogroups.com, <capri26@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                            Thanks again for the info. This weekend I purged the gunk out of the tank. During the process of cleaning the strainer of the fuel pump I decided to replace the fuel pump. Success! She ran beautifully. Again many thanks to you all.

                            I like Art's suggestion of a sediment filter. Can anyone suggest a source and placement of such a filter? I browsed the Internet for "diesel sediment filter" with limited success.

                            Thanks




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