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Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

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  • Mike Bowman
    Well, I did have to change the exhaust hose after the old hose blew after the first time it cranked in 5 years. What would that have done?
    Message 1 of 13 , Oct 18, 2012
    • 0 Attachment
      Well, I did have to change the exhaust hose after the old hose blew after the first time it cranked in 5 years. What would that have done?



      From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
      To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 2:35 PM
      Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

       
      If you have hydro lock, then you may also have water/antifreeze in your oil.  If so, it will appear white milky.  Many potential ways to get water back into cylinder.  Any changes in your exhaust system or heat exchanger? 

      Keep us posted, we all hope it is something simple.

      Bob

      Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

      On Oct 18, 2012, at 12:36 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

       

      Hey guys well it looks like that it's not a voltage issue at all.  Everything checked out in that end.... I even melted the battery post because we were getting strong voltage going to the starter.
      My Mech said that it sounds like we might have a cracked head gasket that is allowing water to sit on top of the cylinder preventing it to go to the top of the stroke.
      HMMMmmmmm more on this later when we pull the glow plugs!


      From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
      To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Saturday, October 6, 2012 9:33 AM
      Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

       
      I would start with checking voltage at batteries, then in and out of the ignition switch, if good check both in and out of the starter button, then go to solenoid. 

      If any drop in voltage check terminals, they can corrode at crimp and cause voltage drop. You might still see voltage, but there isn't enough wire capacity to carry the amperage needed to activate the solenoid.  

      Keep us posted on your progress, you will get it solved.

      Bob Unkel

      Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

      On Oct 5, 2012, at 10:55 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

       
      thanks for your response! the solonoid doesn't click. I'm going to try the voltage issues!
      mike



      From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
      To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Friday, October 5, 2012 9:40 PM
      Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

       
      I do remember reading of service change like you are referring to. You may want to check with Catalina.

      There are other possibilities that may an issue as well:
      If the solonoid clicks but the starter does not turn then you need to have the starter checked out.
      If the solonoid doesn't click, then the voltage to the solonoid may be the issue. This could be to wire size or possibly corrosion at the contact points or maybe even no power at all to the contacts.
      If you feel comfortable doing electrical trouble shooting, you can check the voltage at several points on the system.
      You indicated that the engine had not been used in a while (years) then there may be some corrosion in the solonoid. Unless you have rebuilt starters before I recommend taking it to a shop.
      Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

      From: "mikesails4him" <mikesails4him@...>
      Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 01:34:01 -0000
      Subject: [capri26] Re: New guys.

       

      Hey guys. I just got into a partnership with a 1990 Capri 26. The Owner was way to busy with, well LIFE, and didn't have the time to keep her up and running. Well, she is back to life and looking good. We've cleaned her inside and out, washed the lines, washed the sails, getting the jib re-cut and cleaned, got the Universal Diesel working, (but it's not working now) and had a few good weeks of sailing before the motor quit starting. I've been looking around the old post looking for information on the starter problems.
      I've removed the starter, (the first time) and got it running. Now after about a month, it's not responding to the starter button. I removed it again today and the starter works great.
      I saw somewhere where someone replaced the wire from the starter button to the starter with a larger gauge wire. Any recommendations?

      --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, Richard <cavelamb@...> wrote:
      >
      > I just got the notice that we had three more new guys join up.
      >
      > I know, you guys just want to hide in the back of the room.
      > But it won't do.
      >
      > Ya'll come up here and introduce yourselves and you boats.
      >
      > And welcome to the group!
      >
      >
      > --
      >
      > Richard Lamb
      > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
      > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress
      >







    • Robert Unkel
      You may have had too much water in the muffler, the manual references caution with extended cranking and water build up in the muffler. Just a thought. If
      Message 2 of 13 , Oct 18, 2012
      • 0 Attachment
        You may have had too much water in the muffler, the manual references caution with extended cranking and water build up in the muffler. 

        Just a thought.  If water got backed up it could ave gotten back into the cylinder causing the hydro lock.

        I believe Mark took a diesel class, perhaps he can offer so thoughts,

        Bob

        Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

        On Oct 18, 2012, at 3:53 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

         

        Well, I did have to change the exhaust hose after the old hose blew after the first time it cranked in 5 years. What would that have done?



        From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
        To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 2:35 PM
        Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

         
        If you have hydro lock, then you may also have water/antifreeze in your oil.  If so, it will appear white milky.  Many potential ways to get water back into cylinder.  Any changes in your exhaust system or heat exchanger? 

        Keep us posted, we all hope it is something simple.

        Bob

        Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

        On Oct 18, 2012, at 12:36 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

         

        Hey guys well it looks like that it's not a voltage issue at all.  Everything checked out in that end.... I even melted the battery post because we were getting strong voltage going to the starter.
        My Mech said that it sounds like we might have a cracked head gasket that is allowing water to sit on top of the cylinder preventing it to go to the top of the stroke.
        HMMMmmmmm more on this later when we pull the glow plugs!


        From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
        To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Saturday, October 6, 2012 9:33 AM
        Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

         
        I would start with checking voltage at batteries, then in and out of the ignition switch, if good check both in and out of the starter button, then go to solenoid. 

        If any drop in voltage check terminals, they can corrode at crimp and cause voltage drop. You might still see voltage, but there isn't enough wire capacity to carry the amperage needed to activate the solenoid.  

        Keep us posted on your progress, you will get it solved.

        Bob Unkel

        Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

        On Oct 5, 2012, at 10:55 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

         
        thanks for your response! the solonoid doesn't click. I'm going to try the voltage issues!
        mike



        From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
        To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Friday, October 5, 2012 9:40 PM
        Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

         
        I do remember reading of service change like you are referring to. You may want to check with Catalina.

        There are other possibilities that may an issue as well:
        If the solonoid clicks but the starter does not turn then you need to have the starter checked out.
        If the solonoid doesn't click, then the voltage to the solonoid may be the issue. This could be to wire size or possibly corrosion at the contact points or maybe even no power at all to the contacts.
        If you feel comfortable doing electrical trouble shooting, you can check the voltage at several points on the system.
        You indicated that the engine had not been used in a while (years) then there may be some corrosion in the solonoid. Unless you have rebuilt starters before I recommend taking it to a shop.
        Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

        From: "mikesails4him" <mikesails4him@...>
        Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 01:34:01 -0000
        Subject: [capri26] Re: New guys.

         

        Hey guys. I just got into a partnership with a 1990 Capri 26. The Owner was way to busy with, well LIFE, and didn't have the time to keep her up and running. Well, she is back to life and looking good. We've cleaned her inside and out, washed the lines, washed the sails, getting the jib re-cut and cleaned, got the Universal Diesel working, (but it's not working now) and had a few good weeks of sailing before the motor quit starting. I've been looking around the old post looking for information on the starter problems.
        I've removed the starter, (the first time) and got it running. Now after about a month, it's not responding to the starter button. I removed it again today and the starter works great.
        I saw somewhere where someone replaced the wire from the starter button to the starter with a larger gauge wire. Any recommendations?

        --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, Richard <cavelamb@...> wrote:
        >
        > I just got the notice that we had three more new guys join up.
        >
        > I know, you guys just want to hide in the back of the room.
        > But it won't do.
        >
        > Ya'll come up here and introduce yourselves and you boats.
        >
        > And welcome to the group!
        >
        >
        > --
        >
        > Richard Lamb
        > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
        > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress
        >







      • Artstree@aol.com
        Pressure from the exhaust pushes out the water from the muffler. If you are not getting enough exhaust pressure the muffler may be filling and backing up.
        Message 3 of 13 , Oct 18, 2012
        • 0 Attachment
          Pressure from the exhaust pushes out the water from the muffler. If you are not getting enough exhaust pressure the muffler may be filling and backing up. Check the exhaust out of the muffler to make sure it is not partially plugged.

          You could also try a clear hose from the muffler drain to a tee inserted into the top water discharge line. This would act as a water level gage and give you an idea of how much the muffler is filling up .
          Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

          From: Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...>
          Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 12:53:19 -0700 (PDT)
          To: capri26@yahoogroups.com<capri26@yahoogroups.com>
          ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

           

          Well, I did have to change the exhaust hose after the old hose blew after the first time it cranked in 5 years. What would that have done?



          From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
          To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 2:35 PM
          Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

           
          If you have hydro lock, then you may also have water/antifreeze in your oil.  If so, it will appear white milky.  Many potential ways to get water back into cylinder.  Any changes in your exhaust system or heat exchanger? 

          Keep us posted, we all hope it is something simple.

          Bob

          Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

          On Oct 18, 2012, at 12:36 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

           

          Hey guys well it looks like that it's not a voltage issue at all.  Everything checked out in that end.... I even melted the battery post because we were getting strong voltage going to the starter.
          My Mech said that it sounds like we might have a cracked head gasket that is allowing water to sit on top of the cylinder preventing it to go to the top of the stroke.
          HMMMmmmmm more on this later when we pull the glow plugs!


          From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
          To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Saturday, October 6, 2012 9:33 AM
          Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

           
          I would start with checking voltage at batteries, then in and out of the ignition switch, if good check both in and out of the starter button, then go to solenoid. 

          If any drop in voltage check terminals, they can corrode at crimp and cause voltage drop. You might still see voltage, but there isn't enough wire capacity to carry the amperage needed to activate the solenoid.  

          Keep us posted on your progress, you will get it solved.

          Bob Unkel

          Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

          On Oct 5, 2012, at 10:55 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

           
          thanks for your response! the solonoid doesn't click. I'm going to try the voltage issues!
          mike



          From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
          To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Friday, October 5, 2012 9:40 PM
          Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

           
          I do remember reading of service change like you are referring to. You may want to check with Catalina.

          There are other possibilities that may an issue as well:
          If the solonoid clicks but the starter does not turn then you need to have the starter checked out.
          If the solonoid doesn't click, then the voltage to the solonoid may be the issue. This could be to wire size or possibly corrosion at the contact points or maybe even no power at all to the contacts.
          If you feel comfortable doing electrical trouble shooting, you can check the voltage at several points on the system.
          You indicated that the engine had not been used in a while (years) then there may be some corrosion in the solonoid. Unless you have rebuilt starters before I recommend taking it to a shop.
          Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

          From: "mikesails4him" <mikesails4him@...>
          Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 01:34:01 -0000
          Subject: [capri26] Re: New guys.

           

          Hey guys. I just got into a partnership with a 1990 Capri 26. The Owner was way to busy with, well LIFE, and didn't have the time to keep her up and running. Well, she is back to life and looking good. We've cleaned her inside and out, washed the lines, washed the sails, getting the jib re-cut and cleaned, got the Universal Diesel working, (but it's not working now) and had a few good weeks of sailing before the motor quit starting. I've been looking around the old post looking for information on the starter problems.
          I've removed the starter, (the first time) and got it running. Now after about a month, it's not responding to the starter button. I removed it again today and the starter works great.
          I saw somewhere where someone replaced the wire from the starter button to the starter with a larger gauge wire. Any recommendations?

          --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, Richard <cavelamb@...> wrote:
          >
          > I just got the notice that we had three more new guys join up.
          >
          > I know, you guys just want to hide in the back of the room.
          > But it won't do.
          >
          > Ya'll come up here and introduce yourselves and you boats.
          >
          > And welcome to the group!
          >
          >
          > --
          >
          > Richard Lamb
          > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
          > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress
          >







        • Mike Bowman
          yeah, I do know that the exhaust hose was dry rotten. In fact my mech told me not 30 min before it blew.... man you need to keep an eye on that hose, It s
          Message 4 of 13 , Oct 18, 2012
          • 0 Attachment
            yeah, I do know that the exhaust hose was dry rotten. In fact my mech told me not 30 min before it blew.... "man you need to keep an eye on that hose, It's probably going to blow any day now!"
            Well,,,, it did!
            I was getting good water coming out of the end of the boat while it was working a month ago. But I have been trying to crank it a good bit. so if there is water on top of the cylinder manybe it came from that.....
            we'll see after we get in there!
            thanks for all of your comments!
            I'll keep you informed!
            mike



            From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 4:04 PM
            Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

             
            Pressure from the exhaust pushes out the water from the muffler. If you are not getting enough exhaust pressure the muffler may be filling and backing up. Check the exhaust out of the muffler to make sure it is not partially plugged.

            You could also try a clear hose from the muffler drain to a tee inserted into the top water discharge line. This would act as a water level gage and give you an idea of how much the muffler is filling up .
            Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

            From: Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...>
            Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 12:53:19 -0700 (PDT)
            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com<capri26@yahoogroups.com>
            ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

             
            Well, I did have to change the exhaust hose after the old hose blew after the first time it cranked in 5 years. What would that have done?



            From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
            To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 2:35 PM
            Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

             
            If you have hydro lock, then you may also have water/antifreeze in your oil.  If so, it will appear white milky.  Many potential ways to get water back into cylinder.  Any changes in your exhaust system or heat exchanger? 

            Keep us posted, we all hope it is something simple.

            Bob

            Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

            On Oct 18, 2012, at 12:36 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

             

            Hey guys well it looks like that it's not a voltage issue at all.  Everything checked out in that end.... I even melted the battery post because we were getting strong voltage going to the starter.
            My Mech said that it sounds like we might have a cracked head gasket that is allowing water to sit on top of the cylinder preventing it to go to the top of the stroke.
            HMMMmmmmm more on this later when we pull the glow plugs!


            From: Robert Unkel <bunkel@...>
            To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Saturday, October 6, 2012 9:33 AM
            Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

             
            I would start with checking voltage at batteries, then in and out of the ignition switch, if good check both in and out of the starter button, then go to solenoid. 

            If any drop in voltage check terminals, they can corrode at crimp and cause voltage drop. You might still see voltage, but there isn't enough wire capacity to carry the amperage needed to activate the solenoid.  

            Keep us posted on your progress, you will get it solved.

            Bob Unkel

            Sent by an outspoken old person from his conservative launch pad.........

            On Oct 5, 2012, at 10:55 PM, Mike Bowman <mikesails4him@...> wrote:

             
            thanks for your response! the solonoid doesn't click. I'm going to try the voltage issues!
            mike



            From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Friday, October 5, 2012 9:40 PM
            Subject: Re: [capri26] Re: New guys.

             
            I do remember reading of service change like you are referring to. You may want to check with Catalina.

            There are other possibilities that may an issue as well:
            If the solonoid clicks but the starter does not turn then you need to have the starter checked out.
            If the solonoid doesn't click, then the voltage to the solonoid may be the issue. This could be to wire size or possibly corrosion at the contact points or maybe even no power at all to the contacts.
            If you feel comfortable doing electrical trouble shooting, you can check the voltage at several points on the system.
            You indicated that the engine had not been used in a while (years) then there may be some corrosion in the solonoid. Unless you have rebuilt starters before I recommend taking it to a shop.
            Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

            From: "mikesails4him" <mikesails4him@...>
            Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 01:34:01 -0000
            Subject: [capri26] Re: New guys.

             

            Hey guys. I just got into a partnership with a 1990 Capri 26. The Owner was way to busy with, well LIFE, and didn't have the time to keep her up and running. Well, she is back to life and looking good. We've cleaned her inside and out, washed the lines, washed the sails, getting the jib re-cut and cleaned, got the Universal Diesel working, (but it's not working now) and had a few good weeks of sailing before the motor quit starting. I've been looking around the old post looking for information on the starter problems.
            I've removed the starter, (the first time) and got it running. Now after about a month, it's not responding to the starter button. I removed it again today and the starter works great.
            I saw somewhere where someone replaced the wire from the starter button to the starter with a larger gauge wire. Any recommendations?

            --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, Richard <cavelamb@...> wrote:
            >
            > I just got the notice that we had three more new guys join up.
            >
            > I know, you guys just want to hide in the back of the room.
            > But it won't do.
            >
            > Ya'll come up here and introduce yourselves and you boats.
            >
            > And welcome to the group!
            >
            >
            > --
            >
            > Richard Lamb
            > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
            > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress
            >









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