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Fuel tank & lines

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  • Travis Jennings
    Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I m just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it s even possible.  Also I
    Message 1 of 15 , Jun 4, 2012
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      Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
       
      I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
       
       
      Thanks,
       Travis
      s/v Mari Sol, # 176
       
    • Mark Ellison
      I actually used a flash light and mirror while the pump was out and could see the inside of the tank very well. Much to my surprise clean as could be.
      Message 2 of 15 , Jun 4, 2012
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        I actually used a flash light and mirror while the pump was out and could see the inside of the tank very well.  Much to my surprise clean as could be.

        On Jun 4, 2012, at 11:42 AM, Travis Jennings <twjennings@...> wrote:

         

        Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
         
        I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
         
         
        Thanks,
         Travis
        s/v Mari Sol, # 176
         

      • Artstree@aol.com
        First question is have you purged the tank? With about 5 gallons in the tank add a heavy dose of bio-cide 3-4 times recommended amount. Mix the fuel by shaking
        Message 3 of 15 , Jun 4, 2012
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          First question is have you purged the tank? With about 5 gallons in the tank add a heavy dose of bio-cide 3-4 times recommended amount. Mix the fuel by shaking or rocking the boat depending if it is on a trailer. Allow it to sit overnight. Next connect a discharge pump to the fuel line before it goes into the filter and have at least 2-5 gallon cans to pump into (I used a 55 gallon fluid transfer hand pump). Then agitate the fuel again and immediately pump out the tank as fast as possible. Grab a sample in a clear gallon jug at the start and toward the end just to see what you are getting. (old RV antifreeze jugs work well). You will be surprised at the junk that comes out.

          Reconnect the fuel line and replace all filters. If you do not have a filter between the tank and pump, consider adding one. Dispose of the old fuel and DO NOT try to recycle it as fuel. Replace with fresh fuel.

          If this does not work you could be into cleaning the tank. I actually have two filters before the pump and one after the pump.

          Sea Belle did the same thing until I went through this process as filter kept clogging up constantly. Even after 150-200 hours, I still have not had any trouble.
          Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

          From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
          Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 09:42:48 -0700 (PDT)
          To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
          ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

           

          Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
           
          I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
           
           
          Thanks,
           Travis
          s/v Mari Sol, # 176
           
        • Peter Galizia
          Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.   Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel
          Message 4 of 15 , Jun 4, 2012
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            Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
             
            Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
             
            Try doing the following:
            Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
            Close the tank shut off valve
            Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
            Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
            Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
            Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
            Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
            Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
            Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
            Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
             
            Pete  

            From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
            Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

             
            Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
             
            I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
             
             
            Thanks,
             Travis
            s/v Mari Sol, # 176
             


          • pwwebb@gmail.com
            Had the same problem. Did all the things suggested with no change in symptoms. Replacing the lift pump gave permanent fix. Sent on the Sprint® Now Network
            Message 5 of 15 , Jun 4, 2012
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              Had the same problem. Did all the things suggested with no change in symptoms. Replacing the lift pump gave permanent fix.
              Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®

              From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
              Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 09:42:48 -0700 (PDT)
              To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
              ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

               

              Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
               
              I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
               
               
              Thanks,
               Travis
              s/v Mari Sol, # 176
               
            • Peter
              I guess it might also be worth looking at whether the engine kill valve is vibrating closed, before you change the pump, if the fuel and filters are good.
              Message 6 of 15 , Jun 4, 2012
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                I guess it might also be worth looking at whether the engine kill valve is vibrating closed, before you change the pump, if the fuel and filters are good.

                --- In capri26@yahoogroups.com, pwwebb@... wrote:
                >
                > Had the same problem. Did all the things suggested with no change in symptoms. Replacing the lift pump gave permanent fix.
                > Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®
                >
                > -----Original Message-----
                > From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                > Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                > Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 09:42:48
                > To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                > Reply-To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                > Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines
                >
                > Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm
                > just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think
                > I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any
                > advise on that?
                >
                > I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump,
                > and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any
                > trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the
                > engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is
                > there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in
                > the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun,
                > before I purchased it last fall.
                >
                >
                > Thanks,
                >  Travis
                > s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                >
              • Ted Wright
                So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there
                Message 7 of 15 , Jun 5, 2012
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                  So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 


                  From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                  To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                  Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                  Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                   

                  Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                   
                  Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                   
                  Try doing the following:
                  Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                  Close the tank shut off valve
                  Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                  Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                  Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                  Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                  Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                  Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                  Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                  Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                   
                  Pete  

                  From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                  To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                  Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                   
                  Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                   
                  I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                   
                   
                  Thanks,
                   Travis
                  s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                   


                • Artstree@aol.com
                  The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can t remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth.
                  Message 8 of 15 , Jun 5, 2012
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                    The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                    A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.
                    Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

                    From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                    Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                    Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                    To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                    ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                     

                     
                    So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 


                    From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                    To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                    Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                     

                    Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                     
                    Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                     
                    Try doing the following:
                    Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                    Close the tank shut off valve
                    Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                    Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                    Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                    Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                    Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                    Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                    Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                    Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                     
                    Pete  

                    From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                    To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                    Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                     
                    Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                     
                    I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                     
                     
                    Thanks,
                     Travis
                    s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                     


                  • Ted Wright
                    Thanks Art.  I will look around for a valve, but the clamp idea is good too.  I am not having any problems with the diesel (knock on wood), but the Racor
                    Message 9 of 15 , Jun 5, 2012
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                      Thanks Art.  I will look around for a valve, but the clamp idea is good too.  I am not having any problems with the diesel (knock on wood), but the Racor filter I have is what was on the boat when I bought it a few years ago and so I thought perhaps it might be wise to replace.  Thanks again.  - Ted


                      From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                      To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Tue, June 5, 2012 11:38:01 AM
                      Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                       

                      The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                      A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.

                      Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

                      From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                      Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                      Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                      To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                      ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                       

                       
                      So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 


                      From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                      To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                      Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                      Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                       

                      Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                       
                      Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                       
                      Try doing the following:
                      Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                      Close the tank shut off valve
                      Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                      Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                      Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                      Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                      Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                      Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                      Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                      Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                       
                      Pete  

                      From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                      To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                      Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                       
                      Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                       
                      I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                       
                       
                      Thanks,
                       Travis
                      s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                       


                    • Travis Jennings
                      My boat (1991 #176) does not have a water separator filter.  I guess they started putting those on at a later date.  I’ve seen one on Catalina Direct. 
                      Message 10 of 15 , Jun 11, 2012
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                        My boat (1991 #176) does not have a water separator filter.  I guess they started putting those on at a later date.  I’ve seen one on Catalina Direct.  Does anyone have a photograph of where theirs is installed?

                         

                        Well, I added biocide then pumped the tank out completely.  I disconnected the fuel line going from the lift pump into the engine fuel filter and put it into a 5 gallon can, then turned on the lift pump and let it run until it was sucking air.  Then I put 5 gallons of new fuel into the tank and bled the air out at the engine fuel filter, and the injector pump.  This was Thursday.  Saturday I went out for a motor sail.  I motor sailed for about 3 miles to the other side of the lake and then the engine stalled and would not stay stared.  I sailed back to the marina and into the slip.

                         

                        I pulled the back panel out of the aft berth to get a look at the tank.  It is a metal tank, and glassed into the boat at the bottom sides.  It’s not coming out without being sawed out at the base.  I held my camera up over the batteries and charger so I wasn’t sure what I was photographing or if it was in focus.  If you look at the pictures attached, the big black hose attached to the 90 degree fitting is from the fill port on deck.  The tank shutoff valve is at the bottom left (forward starboard corner of the tank) with a black hose going to the lift pump in the engine compartment.  The red hose is the return line from the engine injectors.  And I’m guessing that plate bolted on in the back is the fuel gauge sending unit.

                         

                        If I unbolt that plate for the sending unit, will I be able to get a shop vac hose in there to clean the tank out?  Has anyone ever done that?  I’ll have to remove the tray that holds the batteries and brackets that hold the charger and outlet to even get to it.

                         

                        Has anyone replaced their tank?  I sail on a lake, year round, and use maybe 3-5 gallons a year.  That 20 gallon tank is a bit of an overkill.

                        Thanks,
                        Travis

                         


                        From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                        To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Tue, June 5, 2012 1:38:01 PM
                        Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                         

                        The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                        A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.

                        Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

                        From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                        Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                        Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                        To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                        ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                         

                         
                        So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 


                        From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                        To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                        Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                        Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                         

                        Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                         
                        Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                         
                        Try doing the following:
                        Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                        Close the tank shut off valve
                        Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                        Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                        Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                        Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                        Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                        Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                        Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                        Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                         
                        Pete  

                        From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                        To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                        Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                         
                        Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                         
                        I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                         
                         
                        Thanks,
                         Travis
                        s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                         


                      • Peter Galizia
                        Travis, are you sure your fuel is bad? What came out of the Tank? Did you see the reply that had the exact same simptoms as you and it turned out to be the
                        Message 11 of 15 , Jun 11, 2012
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Travis, are you sure your fuel is bad? What came out of the Tank? Did you see the reply that had the exact same simptoms as you and it turned out to be the fuel pump. My boat has a plate bolted on top (2 bolts) which is the level sending unit. I understand it's a float operating a reistat resistor. It should not be an issue to pull the level unit and reinstall.
                          Pete

                          From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                          To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Monday, June 11, 2012 10:22 AM
                          Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                           
                          My boat (1991 #176) does not have a water separator filter.  I guess they started putting those on at a later date.  I’ve seen one on Catalina Direct.  Does anyone have a photograph of where theirs is installed?
                           
                          Well, I added biocide then pumped the tank out completely.  I disconnected the fuel line going from the lift pump into the engine fuel filter and put it into a 5 gallon can, then turned on the lift pump and let it run until it was sucking air.  Then I put 5 gallons of new fuel into the tank and bled the air out at the engine fuel filter, and the injector pump.  This was Thursday.  Saturday I went out for a motor sail.  I motor sailed for about 3 miles to the other side of the lake and then the engine stalled and would not stay stared.  I sailed back to the marina and into the slip.
                           
                          I pulled the back panel out of the aft berth to get a look at the tank.  It is a metal tank, and glassed into the boat at the bottom sides.  It’s not coming out without being sawed out at the base.  I held my camera up over the batteries and charger so I wasn’t sure what I was photographing or if it was in focus.  If you look at the pictures attached, the big black hose attached to the 90 degree fitting is from the fill port on deck.  The tank shutoff valve is at the bottom left (forward starboard corner of the tank) with a black hose going to the lift pump in the engine compartment.  The red hose is the return line from the engine injectors.  And I’m guessing that plate bolted on in the back is the fuel gauge sending unit.
                           
                          If I unbolt that plate for the sending unit, will I be able to get a shop vac hose in there to clean the tank out?  Has anyone ever done that?  I’ll have to remove the tray that holds the batteries and brackets that hold the charger and outlet to even get to it.
                           
                          Has anyone replaced their tank?  I sail on a lake, year round, and use maybe 3-5 gallons a year.  That 20 gallon tank is a bit of an overkill.
                          Thanks,
                          Travis

                           

                          From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                          To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Tue, June 5, 2012 1:38:01 PM
                          Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                           
                          The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                          A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.
                          Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
                          From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                          Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                          Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                          To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                          ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                           
                           
                          So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 

                          From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                          To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                          Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                          Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                           
                          Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                           
                          Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                           
                          Try doing the following:
                          Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                          Close the tank shut off valve
                          Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                          Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                          Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                          Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                          Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                          Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                          Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                          Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                           
                          Pete  

                          From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                          To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                          Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                           
                          Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                           
                          I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                           
                           
                          Thanks,
                           Travis
                          s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                           




                        • Donald Miller
                          Travis, Another thing to consider is that some of the older fuel tanks had a screen wire type strainer in the tank attached to the bottom of the suction
                          Message 12 of 15 , Jun 11, 2012
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Travis,
                             
                            Another  thing to consider is that some of the older fuel tanks had a screen wire type strainer in the tank attached to the bottom of the suction hose(or pipe). Trash in the tank sometimes clogged the strainer and caused problems similiar to what you described. I have read that if you have adequate filters that it is best to remove or punch out the screen wire strainer. 

                            Donald Miller
                            millerd205@...


                            -----Original Message-----
                            From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                            To: capri26 <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Mon, Jun 11, 2012 11:22 am
                            Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                             
                            My boat (1991 #176) does not have a water separator filter.  I guess they started putting those on at a later date.  I’ve seen one on Catalina Direct.  Does anyone have a photograph of where theirs is installed?
                             
                            Well, I added biocide then pumped the tank out completely.  I disconnected the fuel line going from the lift pump into the engine fuel filter and put it into a 5 gallon can, then turned on the lift pump and let it run until it was sucking air.  Then I put 5 gallons of new fuel into the tank and bled the air out at the engine fuel filter, and the injector pump.  This was Thursday.  Saturday I went out for a motor sail.  I motor sailed for about 3 miles to the other side of the lake and then the engine stalled and would not stay stared.  I sailed back to the marina and into the slip.
                             
                            I pulled the back panel out of the aft berth to get a look at the tank.  It is a metal tank, and glassed into the boat at the bottom sides.  It’s not coming out without being sawed out at the base.  I held my camera up over the batteries and charger so I wasn’t sure what I was photographing or if it was in focus.  If you look at the pictures attached, the big black hose attached to the 90 degree fitting is from the fill port on deck.  The tank shutoff valve is at the bottom left (forward starboard corner of the tank) with a black hose going to the lift pump in the engine compartment.  The red hose is the return line from the engine injectors.  And I’m guessing that plate bolted on in the back is the fuel gauge sending unit.
                             
                            If I unbolt that plate for the sending unit, will I be able to get a shop vac hose in there to clean the tank out?  Has anyone ever done that?  I’ll have to remove the tray that holds the batteries and brackets that hold the charger and outlet to even get to it.
                             
                            Has anyone replaced their tank?  I sail on a lake, year round, and use maybe 3-5 gallons a year.  That 20 gallon tank is a bit of an overkill.
                            Thanks,
                            Travis

                             


                            From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Tue, June 5, 2012 1:38:01 PM
                            Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                             
                            The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                            A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.
                            Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

                            From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                            Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                            Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                             
                             
                            So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 


                            From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                            To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                            Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                             
                            Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                             
                            Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                             
                            Try doing the following:
                            Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                            Close the tank shut off valve
                            Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                            Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                            Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                            Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                            Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                            Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                            Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                            Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                             
                            Pete  

                            From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                            To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                            Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                             
                            Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                             
                            I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                             
                             
                            Thanks,
                             Travis
                            s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                             



                          • Artstree@aol.com
                            Before getting to carried away try a couple of experiments. Run the engine an when it starts to die open the fuel fill to vent the fuel tank. If the engine
                            Message 13 of 15 , Jun 11, 2012
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Before getting to carried away try a couple of experiments.

                              Run the engine an when it starts to die open the fuel fill to vent the fuel tank. If the engine picks up speed and starts running right the you need to clean or replace the tank vent. It may be creating a vacuum if the vent is clogged

                              2nd connect an small tank to the engine and bypass the built in tank. The engine only burns 1/2 gallon per hour so you will not need more than a gallon if it is dying after only 3 miles. If you still have a problem it may be the fuel pump. If the engine runs fine you probably have a tank problem.

                              Next if you used the fuel pump to empty the tank it may have clogged the pump filter/screen on the pump in the process. Disassemble the pump an inspect an clean the screen. If you have a pressure guage check to see what the pressure is. It should be around 10 psi (I will confirm pressure). If you have low pressure replace the pump.

                              The separator filter is generally right above the transmission. I will forward a picture later. Clean fuel at the right pressure is essential for a diesel to operate.
                              Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

                              From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                              Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 08:22:03 -0700 (PDT)
                              To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                              ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               

                              My boat (1991 #176) does not have a water separator filter.  I guess they started putting those on at a later date.  I’ve seen one on Catalina Direct.  Does anyone have a photograph of where theirs is installed?

                               

                              Well, I added biocide then pumped the tank out completely.  I disconnected the fuel line going from the lift pump into the engine fuel filter and put it into a 5 gallon can, then turned on the lift pump and let it run until it was sucking air.  Then I put 5 gallons of new fuel into the tank and bled the air out at the engine fuel filter, and the injector pump.  This was Thursday.  Saturday I went out for a motor sail.  I motor sailed for about 3 miles to the other side of the lake and then the engine stalled and would not stay stared.  I sailed back to the marina and into the slip.

                               

                              I pulled the back panel out of the aft berth to get a look at the tank.  It is a metal tank, and glassed into the boat at the bottom sides.  It’s not coming out without being sawed out at the base.  I held my camera up over the batteries and charger so I wasn’t sure what I was photographing or if it was in focus.  If you look at the pictures attached, the big black hose attached to the 90 degree fitting is from the fill port on deck.  The tank shutoff valve is at the bottom left (forward starboard corner of the tank) with a black hose going to the lift pump in the engine compartment.  The red hose is the return line from the engine injectors.  And I’m guessing that plate bolted on in the back is the fuel gauge sending unit.

                               

                              If I unbolt that plate for the sending unit, will I be able to get a shop vac hose in there to clean the tank out?  Has anyone ever done that?  I’ll have to remove the tray that holds the batteries and brackets that hold the charger and outlet to even get to it.

                               

                              Has anyone replaced their tank?  I sail on a lake, year round, and use maybe 3-5 gallons a year.  That 20 gallon tank is a bit of an overkill.

                              Thanks,
                              Travis

                               


                              From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                              To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Tue, June 5, 2012 1:38:01 PM
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               

                              The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                              A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.

                              Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

                              From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                              Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                              To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                              ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                               

                               
                              So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 


                              From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                              To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                              Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               

                              Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                               
                              Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                               
                              Try doing the following:
                              Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                              Close the tank shut off valve
                              Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                              Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                              Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                              Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                              Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                              Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                              Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                              Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                               
                              Pete  

                              From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                              To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                              Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               
                              Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                               
                              I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                               
                               
                              Thanks,
                               Travis
                              s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                               


                            • Artstree@aol.com
                              Attached is a a photo of the Water Separator filter. Mine is actually above the prop shaft seal not over the transmission as I had thought. Art Harden CCSA
                              Message 14 of 15 , Jun 11, 2012
                              • 1 Attachment
                              • 712 KB
                              Attached is a a photo of the Water Separator filter. Mine is actually above the prop shaft seal not over the transmission as I had thought.
                               


                               
                              Art Harden
                              CCSA Commodore
                              Sea Belle - Capri 26 ~#151
                              937.885.9380 (o)
                              937.477.5544 (m)


                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                              To: capri26 <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                              Sent: Mon, Jun 11, 2012 11:22 am
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               
                              My boat (1991 #176) does not have a water separator filter.  I guess they started putting those on at a later date.  I’ve seen one on Catalina Direct.  Does anyone have a photograph of where theirs is installed?
                               
                              Well, I added biocide then pumped the tank out completely.  I disconnected the fuel line going from the lift pump into the engine fuel filter and put it into a 5 gallon can, then turned on the lift pump and let it run until it was sucking air.  Then I put 5 gallons of new fuel into the tank and bled the air out at the engine fuel filter, and the injector pump.  This was Thursday.  Saturday I went out for a motor sail.  I motor sailed for about 3 miles to the other side of the lake and then the engine stalled and would not stay stared.  I sailed back to the marina and into the slip.
                               
                              I pulled the back panel out of the aft berth to get a look at the tank.  It is a metal tank, and glassed into the boat at the bottom sides.  It’s not coming out without being sawed out at the base.  I held my camera up over the batteries and charger so I wasn’t sure what I was photographing or if it was in focus.  If you look at the pictures attached, the big black hose attached to the 90 degree fitting is from the fill port on deck.  The tank shutoff valve is at the bottom left (forward starboard corner of the tank) with a black hose going to the lift pump in the engine compartment.  The red hose is the return line from the engine injectors.  And I’m guessing that plate bolted on in the back is the fuel gauge sending unit.
                               
                              If I unbolt that plate for the sending unit, will I be able to get a shop vac hose in there to clean the tank out?  Has anyone ever done that?  I’ll have to remove the tray that holds the batteries and brackets that hold the charger and outlet to even get to it.
                               
                              Has anyone replaced their tank?  I sail on a lake, year round, and use maybe 3-5 gallons a year.  That 20 gallon tank is a bit of an overkill.
                              Thanks,
                              Travis

                               


                              From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                              To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Tue, June 5, 2012 1:38:01 PM
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               
                              The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                              A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.
                              Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

                              From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                              Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                               
                               
                              So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 


                              From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                              To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                              Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                              Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               
                              Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                               
                              Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                               
                              Try doing the following:
                              Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                              Close the tank shut off valve
                              Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                              Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                              Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                              Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                              Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                              Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                              Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                              Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                               
                              Pete  

                              From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                              To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                              Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                               
                              Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                               
                              I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                               
                               
                              Thanks,
                               Travis
                              s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                               



                            • Peter Galizia
                              The symptoms do sound an awful lot like a plugged vent. It could be as simple as a spider in the little weather head on the tail of the boat. Spiders plug my
                              Message 15 of 15 , Jun 12, 2012
                              • 0 Attachment
                                The symptoms do sound an awful lot like a plugged vent. It could be as simple as a spider in the little weather head on the tail of the boat. Spiders plug my water tank vent a few years ago.

                                From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                                To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Monday, June 11, 2012 3:01 PM
                                Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                                 
                                Before getting to carried away try a couple of experiments.

                                Run the engine an when it starts to die open the fuel fill to vent the fuel tank. If the engine picks up speed and starts running right the you need to clean or replace the tank vent. It may be creating a vacuum if the vent is clogged

                                2nd connect an small tank to the engine and bypass the built in tank. The engine only burns 1/2 gallon per hour so you will not need more than a gallon if it is dying after only 3 miles. If you still have a problem it may be the fuel pump. If the engine runs fine you probably have a tank problem.

                                Next if you used the fuel pump to empty the tank it may have clogged the pump filter/screen on the pump in the process. Disassemble the pump an inspect an clean the screen. If you have a pressure guage check to see what the pressure is. It should be around 10 psi (I will confirm pressure). If you have low pressure replace the pump.

                                The separator filter is generally right above the transmission. I will forward a picture later. Clean fuel at the right pressure is essential for a diesel to operate.
                                Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
                                From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                                Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                                Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 08:22:03 -0700 (PDT)
                                To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                                ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                                 
                                My boat (1991 #176) does not have a water separator filter.  I guess they started putting those on at a later date.  I’ve seen one on Catalina Direct.  Does anyone have a photograph of where theirs is installed?
                                 
                                Well, I added biocide then pumped the tank out completely.  I disconnected the fuel line going from the lift pump into the engine fuel filter and put it into a 5 gallon can, then turned on the lift pump and let it run until it was sucking air.  Then I put 5 gallons of new fuel into the tank and bled the air out at the engine fuel filter, and the injector pump.  This was Thursday.  Saturday I went out for a motor sail.  I motor sailed for about 3 miles to the other side of the lake and then the engine stalled and would not stay stared.  I sailed back to the marina and into the slip.
                                 
                                I pulled the back panel out of the aft berth to get a look at the tank.  It is a metal tank, and glassed into the boat at the bottom sides.  It’s not coming out without being sawed out at the base.  I held my camera up over the batteries and charger so I wasn’t sure what I was photographing or if it was in focus.  If you look at the pictures attached, the big black hose attached to the 90 degree fitting is from the fill port on deck.  The tank shutoff valve is at the bottom left (forward starboard corner of the tank) with a black hose going to the lift pump in the engine compartment.  The red hose is the return line from the engine injectors.  And I’m guessing that plate bolted on in the back is the fuel gauge sending unit.
                                 
                                If I unbolt that plate for the sending unit, will I be able to get a shop vac hose in there to clean the tank out?  Has anyone ever done that?  I’ll have to remove the tray that holds the batteries and brackets that hold the charger and outlet to even get to it.
                                 
                                Has anyone replaced their tank?  I sail on a lake, year round, and use maybe 3-5 gallons a year.  That 20 gallon tank is a bit of an overkill.
                                Thanks,
                                Travis

                                 

                                From: "Artstree@..." <Artstree@...>
                                To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Tue, June 5, 2012 1:38:01 PM
                                Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                                 
                                The tank shut off is just outside of the tank. I can't remember specifically where, but I think I had to pull the cabin pannel (battery area) in the aft berth. If you are still having problems after replacing filters you may still have bad fuel issues even with a steady flow. That is why purging the tank an putting in fresh fuel is important.

                                A squeeze clamp can be a temporary shut off or at least a fuel drainage slow down. Also diapers are handy to catch any spills.
                                Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
                                From: Ted Wright <theowright1@...>
                                Sender: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                                Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:54:27 -0700 (PDT)
                                To: <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                                ReplyTo: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank lines

                                 
                                 
                                So I need to replace my Racor filter, and was going to send an email this week about it but this topic came up and partially answered my question.  So there is a tank shut-off valve?  Could someone describe where it is located?  I haven't looked at all, just opened the Racor vent last weekend and found a good steady flow of diesel (which is evidently good for running the engine, but not so much so when trying to replace this fillter!).  Thanks.  - Ted 

                                From: Peter Galizia <galiziap@...>
                                To: "capri26@yahoogroups.com" <capri26@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Mon, June 4, 2012 12:01:52 PM
                                Subject: Re: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                                 
                                Travis, Is it stalling in gear and then starting in neutral? That would be the cutless rubber bearing.
                                 
                                Typically the first thing to load up, in the fuel system, is the Racor filter, in the filter separator. Open the drain on your filter separator and make sure you have good flow from the tank. What was in your filter / separator when you changed the Racor filter? If your suspect biological did you add bio kill to the tank. Bio kill is really important. If you had bad bio growth in the tank, it would not take long to load up a new filter. If your not getting flow from the tank, I think something must be going in the shutoff valve at the tank. If your inspection of the water separator filter indicates it's loaded again, I'd assume it's biological.
                                 
                                Try doing the following:
                                Add plenty of bio kill to the tank
                                Close the tank shut off valve
                                Drain the filter separator and disconnect the fuel line at the separator coming from the tank
                                Buy a brass hose barb coupling hose and hose clamps and extend the hose temporarily
                                Put the hose in an empty diesel can (I ran mine through painters rags so I could see how much sludge came out)
                                Open the tank drain valve and drain the tank into the can by blowing in the tank fill with a shop vac
                                Keep draining and filling until your not getting any sludge in the painters rags
                                Put the system back together with new a Racor filter as required.
                                Your system should be solid to the filter separator, so loosen the outlet hose on the filter sep and bleed with the vacuum blower to there, if you wish. It should start right up. You should never need to bleed the injectors.
                                Also fill the tank with good new diesel and add a maintenance dose of additive with bio kill.
                                 
                                Pete  

                                From: Travis Jennings <twjennings@...>
                                To: capri26@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 11:42 AM
                                Subject: [capri26] Fuel tank & lines

                                 
                                Has anyone ever taken their fuel tank out of their Capri 26 to clean it?  I'm just wondering how hard it is to get to, or if it's even possible.  Also I think I need to replace the fuel line going from the tank to the lift pump.  Any advise on that?
                                 
                                I've replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the screen & magnet inside the lift pump, and have blead the fuel line and injectors multiple times.  I don't have any trouble motoring out, but then after spending a day out on the lake sailing, the engine stalls coming back into the marina.  The only thing I can think of is there is junk in the tank shaking loose and clogging the line.  The boat sat in the slip for over a year unused with fuel in the tank, in the hot Texas sun, before I purchased it last fall.
                                 
                                 
                                Thanks,
                                 Travis
                                s/v Mari Sol, # 176
                                 




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