Re: Canon A60 longer exposures and RAW -found something-
Please, could you provide the instructions on how to remove lens
system and override E18 error?
--- In email@example.com, "Ariel"
> Hi! I'm Leonardo from Argentina.
> I own an old Canon A60 and use it for imaging deep sky objets with a
> telescope (astronomical use).
> First, I've removed the IR filter sucessfully.
> Later I directly removed the whole lenses system and added a switch
> trick the infamous E18 error. Worked fine! Now it takes a lot moreof
> light and I can image fainter objets.CCD.
> This week I did the last mod, added a peltier device to cool the
> It didn't changed a lot but the images are less grainy and the CCDis
> slighty more sensible.Reading
> Now I'm very limited with the 15" time exposure. I need more!
> and reading, I came across with a russian page that explained how totexts
> decrypt the firmware. There are two programs, one that leaves the
> firmware decrypted in one file and other that decryps and extracts
> several files. I did the extracting job OK.
> The idea is obvious: hack something on the firmware in order to gain
> longer exposures.
> I opened the firmware in a hex editor and started to find something
> like strings and codes. I found a lot of interesting things:
> Languages, a PC BIOS-like, mentions to RAW images (.CRW) and the
> of the exposure timings (up to 30"). I changed the numbers (10" toflashed
> 20", 13" to 60" and 15" to 99"), packed again the fimrware and
> it to the camera.exposure
> It showed the longer exposures times, but the camera still does 10",
> 13" and 15" exposures even though it displays a different number.
> Decrypted the fimware again and went to the same secction of
> times. Next to the numbers, there where four hex codes wich had lesseven
> value when the exposure number was bigger. I changed them with a
> less value in the hopes to increase the exposure time. Flashed it tosettings
> the camera and nope, nothing. Not only that, the 13" and 15"
> A file within the firmware, called "mech.img" has the info about the
> exposure times.
> Well, I wanted to ask if somebody knows or can help me with this.
> For what I´ve seen, longer exposures and RAW images are possible,
> they´re locked (something that the CHDK program showed to everyone)
> Regards, Leonardo.
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Igor Bonefacic"
>Hi Igor! I wrote the tutorial in spanish, but translated to english.
> Please, could you provide the instructions on how to remove lens
> system and override E18 error?
> Igor B.
Sisce I like to write properly, the translation should be OK:
The camera has two photodiodes with a led. One is to detect if the
focus system is on place, and the other is to detect if the lenses are
in place (the infamous E18 error detector). On this detector, we'll
need to cut the tracks of the LED, and solder two wires to the
photodiode. Now with these two wires, you'll have to solder them to a
small switch (outside the camera). That's it!
Before turning on the camera, leave the switch ON, turn on the camera
and wait 1,5 seconds, now turn the switch OFF for one second and turn
it ON again. That's it, the camera should work.
Watch out that the lenses are not stuck, I don't know what happened to
your camera. The motor drive used to move the lenses has also two
photodetectors wich tells to the system the position of the lenses. If
the lenses are stuck it won't work.
- I am saying to bypass the camera's shutter control electronics and provide your own to power the shutter solenoid. Figuring out how to program the camera-chip might be a better option if you can.
As far as dark-frame subtraction to remove noise, it is more time-efficient to make your own dark-frames, average (median-combine) them together to create a master dark with just the consistently hot pixels, and subtract this afterwards. Starting with RAWs. is the better way to do this, before the pixel-artifact is smeared across several post-Bayer-interpolation pixels.
I have used both ImagesPlus ($) and Registax (free) to do the dark-frame subtraction and stacking to minimize the noise, depending on if I'm using RAWs or JPGs for my input and whether it's a moon/planet or a faint-fuzzy.
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 10:29 PM
Subject: [canondigicamhacking] Re: Canon A60 longer exposures and RAW -found something-
--- In email@example.com, "Steve Sprengel"
>is even possible, but you may be able to attach a switch to the
> Since you've already removed the lens, and I'm not saying I know it
shutter solenoid mechanism that lets you hold it open longer, like a
Bulb exposure on other cameras. It may get too hot or drain the
battery too fast, but worth a try, if you can figure out which
electrical contacts control the shutter. I would think you'd want to
use a volt meter to determine which things have power supplied to them
when the shutter is open.
>manual, which is not that helpful for the electronics, unfortunately:
> Since you've removed the lens, you probably already have this parts
>Steve, unfortunately that's impossible. The camera will make 15" as
much no matter what. After making the 15" exposure, it automatically
makes and substract a dark frame of the same exposure time but with
the shutter closed in order to reduce the noise of hot pixels, etc
The only way to increase the exposure is by hacking the firmware.
These days I've been thinking that maybe, it might be possible to
achieve loinger exposures by making a hardware mod on the chip Sony
CXD3615R, it controls the exposures of the CCD...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- That approach won't work.
Long exposue need the coordination of:
1. mechanical iris open-close timing
2. CCD electronic shutter timing, i.e., from L.E. "capture" mode to
the normal "draft" (Live Preview) mode.
CHDK decrypt on Digic 1 based digicams is the right approach.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Steve Sprengel"
>provide your own to power the shutter solenoid. Figuring out how to
> I am saying to bypass the camera's shutter control electronics and
program the camera-chip might be a better option if you can.