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RE: [campernicholson] Nic 35: Fridge & Lewmar Winches

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  • JIM TEIPEN
    John, Regarding your winch, it appears you have a Lewmar Hold Fast Self Tailing winch produced between 1978 and 1983 according to this link on their website.
    Message 1 of 8 , Jul 31, 2013
      John,

      Regarding your winch, it appears you have a Lewmar Hold Fast Self Tailing winch produced between 1978 and 1983 according to this link on their website.  The picture there shows your exact winch. 


      There it says the crown/feeder arm piece screws directly on top, so perhaps with the aid of some penetrating lubricant, you can unscrew the top plate.  

      You might be able to contact Lewmar as well to get a .pdf of the original manual as well.  They have quite a few manuals under their website Support link, but most of it it relates to more recent models.    

      Good Luck,

      Jim 
      Alegria
      CN - 35 #68


      To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      From: gnorbury@...
      Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 20:12:56 -0400
      Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Nic 35: Fridge & Lewmar Winches

       
      John,

      I can't help with the winches, but I do know a thing or two about Danfoss compressors.  From the photo it appears yours is a BD35F, which means it uses a DC control module that is capable of outputting diagnostic information to tell you why it's not happy.  Download the following .pdf for a explanation of how to view the controller diagnostics.  Don't worry if yours is not an Isotherm unit - all Danfoss BD35/DB50 equipment works the same way.
      http://www.isotherm-parts.com/PDF/service_notes/Danfoss-Troubleshooting.pdf
      http://www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature/Manuals/06/BD35-50F_101N0210-20-40_0300-20_08-2011_dehcei100b602.pdf

      One additional troubleshooting step you can take is to unscrew the black box from the side of the compressor (power it down first), then unplug the three pin connector from the hermetic unit.  Using a digital multimeter on the ohms scale, measure the resistance between each of the terminals.  (e.g. A-B, A-C, B-C).  They should all be very close to the same low value.  Measure again between each terminal and ground, only this time you should read very high or close to infinite resistance.

      Presumably you already checked the thermostat for proper operation? (You did say the fan turns on).  You can eliminate if from the equation by connecting a wire between the C and T terminals to force the compressor to start (at low speed).

      If the compressor windings look good, you've checked the thermostat and you're not getting any diagnostic flashes it's probably the black box that's gone wrong.  In the US they can be replaced for about $120 or so.

      BTW, the most common problem I see with these units is low voltage (low batts) followed by control box failure due to nearby lightning or voltage spike.
      Graham



      On 07/31/2013 5:35 PM, john57crosby wrote:
       
      I have two problems on my Nic 35 - I welcome suggestions on how to solve them!

      The first problem is that the fridge no longer works and I don't know why. The fan is working ok, so I think the issue is the compressor - I have uploaded a photo of it in an album called 'Boreas J'. I understand this may use old style gas which is no longer used (certainly where I currently sail in the Adriatic) and it would also be expensive to get a specialist to look at it, find if there's a gas leak etc. So I'm wondering whether I should buy a replacement compressor and get a specialist to replace the old with the new. The reason I'm thinking that solution is that when I spoke to the yard in Trieste, Italy where my boat is currently home berthed they told me they only do upright fridges. That would obviously need to go somewhere else than its current location, which is the usual Nic 35 location, which I'm reluctant to do.

      The second problem is with my aft winches, used primarily for spinnaker work. I need to service them. They are the Lewmar 30 Self-Tailing model - I have uploaded two photo's of them in the same 'Boreas J' folder. I have looked at the Lewmar Winch Servicing manual online but can't see my model. The issue is that I don't know how to get the drum off. On top it has no locking ring or cap to unscrew. Hence I wonder if I am meant to unscrew the whole, by initially gently banging the self-tail feeder arm to loosen it as it's solidly on. But I don't know whether it unscrews clockwise or anti-clockwise!

      Thanks for any advice.

      regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)




    • john57crosby
      Fantastic Jim, thanks very much your very useful info! I looked at the link you sent, mine is indeed the model you mentioned, and I have contacted Lewmar.
      Message 2 of 8 , Aug 1, 2013
        Fantastic Jim, thanks very much your very useful info!

        I looked at the link you sent, mine is indeed the model you mentioned, and I have contacted Lewmar. They've already replied! I'm sharing their advice in case anyone has similar problems in the future. "It unscrews anti clockwise, tap the feeder arm at the strongest point of the arm, Be careful there are not any spares for this winch. You may have to be brave and knock it firmly if it's not been off for a while, maybe getting some lubrication or hot water over the crowns before hand may assist". Lewmar also sent me the pdf manual - I would upload this to 'attachments' so others can refer to it as necessary, but I don't see how to upload an attachment

        To Ralph and Graham, thanks also for your advice re the fridge, which I'll follow when I next visit the boat in a few weeks.

        regards John

        (ps: you gotta love this forum for the useful advice you can get from others!)

        --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, JIM TEIPEN <jteipen@...> wrote:
        >
        > John,
        > Regarding your winch, it appears you have a Lewmar Hold Fast Self Tailing winch produced between 1978 and 1983 according to this link on their website. The picture there shows your exact winch.
        > http://www.lewmar.com/product-listing.asp?action=search&type=8
        > There it says the crown/feeder arm piece screws directly on top, so perhaps with the aid of some penetrating lubricant, you can unscrew the top plate.
        > You might be able to contact Lewmar as well to get a .pdf of the original manual as well. They have quite a few manuals under their website Support link, but most of it it relates to more recent models.
        > Good Luck,
        > Jim AlegriaCN - 35 #68
        >
        > To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
        > From: gnorbury@...
        > Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 20:12:56 -0400
        > Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Nic 35: Fridge & Lewmar Winches
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > John,
        >
        >
        >
        > I can't help with the winches, but I do know a thing or two about
        > Danfoss compressors. From the photo it appears yours is a BD35F,
        > which means it uses a DC control module that is capable of
        > outputting diagnostic information to tell you why it's not happy.
        > Download the following .pdf for a explanation of how to view the
        > controller diagnostics. Don't worry if yours is not an Isotherm
        > unit - all Danfoss BD35/DB50 equipment works the same way.
        >
        > http://www.isotherm-parts.com/PDF/service_notes/Danfoss-Troubleshooting.pdf
        >
        > http://www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature/Manuals/06/BD35-50F_101N0210-20-40_0300-20_08-2011_dehcei100b602.pdf
        >
        >
        >
        > One additional troubleshooting step you can take is to unscrew the
        > black box from the side of the compressor (power it down first),
        > then unplug the three pin connector from the hermetic unit. Using a
        > digital multimeter on the ohms scale, measure the resistance between
        > each of the terminals. (e.g. A-B, A-C, B-C). They should all be
        > very close to the same low value. Measure again between each
        > terminal and ground, only this time you should read very high or
        > close to infinite resistance.
        >
        >
        >
        > Presumably you already checked the thermostat for proper operation?
        > (You did say the fan turns on). You can eliminate if from the
        > equation by connecting a wire between the C and T terminals to force
        > the compressor to start (at low speed).
        >
        >
        >
        > If the compressor windings look good, you've checked the thermostat
        > and you're not getting any diagnostic flashes it's probably the
        > black box that's gone wrong. In the US they can be replaced for
        > about $120 or so.
        >
        >
        >
        > BTW, the most common problem I see with these units is low voltage
        > (low batts) followed by control box failure due to nearby lightning
        > or voltage spike.
        >
        > Graham
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > On 07/31/2013 5:35 PM, john57crosby
        > wrote:
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > I have two problems on my Nic 35 - I welcome suggestions
        > on how to solve them!
        >
        >
        >
        > The first problem is that the fridge no longer works and I
        > don't know why. The fan is working ok, so I think the
        > issue is the compressor - I have uploaded a photo of it in
        > an album called 'Boreas J'. I understand this may use old
        > style gas which is no longer used (certainly where I
        > currently sail in the Adriatic) and it would also be
        > expensive to get a specialist to look at it, find if
        > there's a gas leak etc. So I'm wondering whether I should
        > buy a replacement compressor and get a specialist to
        > replace the old with the new. The reason I'm thinking that
        > solution is that when I spoke to the yard in Trieste,
        > Italy where my boat is currently home berthed they told me
        > they only do upright fridges. That would obviously need to
        > go somewhere else than its current location, which is the
        > usual Nic 35 location, which I'm reluctant to do.
        >
        >
        >
        > The second problem is with my aft winches, used primarily
        > for spinnaker work. I need to service them. They are the
        > Lewmar 30 Self-Tailing model - I have uploaded two photo's
        > of them in the same 'Boreas J' folder. I have looked at
        > the Lewmar Winch Servicing manual online but can't see my
        > model. The issue is that I don't know how to get the drum
        > off. On top it has no locking ring or cap to unscrew.
        > Hence I wonder if I am meant to unscrew the whole, by
        > initially gently banging the self-tail feeder arm to
        > loosen it as it's solidly on. But I don't know whether it
        > unscrews clockwise or anti-clockwise!
        >
        >
        >
        > Thanks for any advice.
        >
        >
        >
        > regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)
        >
      • john crosby
        Dear Graham, I was on my boat over the weekend, during which I managed to do some checks based your useful advice. I don t think the issue is electrical or
        Message 3 of 8 , Aug 19, 2013
          Dear Graham,

          I was on my boat over the weekend, during which I managed to do some checks based your useful advice. I don't think the issue is electrical or electronic, having done several tests on the electronic black box: (1) it's getting 12.79V, (2) I disconnected the thermostat and jumped C&T and both the fan and compressor started; (3) I reconnected the thermostat, turned it on and both the fan and compressor started; (4) I connected the LED to + and D, there were no error flashed. This leads me to think the compressor is no longer doing its thing to cool the pipes that run around the ice compartment in the fridge - I can feel a bit of cold, but not nearly as much as I used to - which leads me to think it's a gas issue.

          (I recall when I had an older car while living in the States sometime ago that the garage fixed my A/C, which over time became less efficient in providing cold air, by topping up the gas (freon?). That might have absolutely nothing to do with my current fridge problem, but it came to mind when I was thinking what might be wrong.)

          Any further thoughts?

          regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)

          ps: thanks to advice from others in response to the other problem in my earlier email, I managed to take my aft winches apart and give them a good service.


          From: Graham Norbury <gnorbury@...>
          To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Thursday, 1 August 2013, 2:12
          Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Nic 35: Fridge & Lewmar Winches

           
          John,

          I can't help with the winches, but I do know a thing or two about Danfoss compressors.  From the photo it appears yours is a BD35F, which means it uses a DC control module that is capable of outputting diagnostic information to tell you why it's not happy.  Download the following .pdf for a explanation of how to view the controller diagnostics.  Don't worry if yours is not an Isotherm unit - all Danfoss BD35/DB50 equipment works the same way.
          http://www.isotherm-parts.com/PDF/service_notes/Danfoss-Troubleshooting.pdf
          http://www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature/Manuals/06/BD35-50F_101N0210-20-40_0300-20_08-2011_dehcei100b602.pdf

          One additional troubleshooting step you can take is to unscrew the black box from the side of the compressor (power it down first), then unplug the three pin connector from the hermetic unit.  Using a digital multimeter on the ohms scale, measure the resistance between each of the terminals.  (e.g. A-B, A-C, B-C).  They should all be very close to the same low value.  Measure again between each terminal and ground, only this time you should read very high or close to infinite resistance.

          Presumably you already checked the thermostat for proper operation? (You did say the fan turns on).  You can eliminate if from the equation by connecting a wire between the C and T terminals to force the compressor to start (at low speed).

          If the compressor windings look good, you've checked the thermostat and you're not getting any diagnostic flashes it's probably the black box that's gone wrong.  In the US they can be replaced for about $120 or so.

          BTW, the most common problem I see with these units is low voltage (low batts) followed by control box failure due to nearby lightning or voltage spike.
          Graham


          On 07/31/2013 5:35 PM, john57crosby wrote:
           
          I have two problems on my Nic 35 - I welcome suggestions on how to solve them!

          The first problem is that the fridge no longer works and I don't know why. The fan is working ok, so I think the issue is the compressor - I have uploaded a photo of it in an album called 'Boreas J'. I understand this may use old style gas which is no longer used (certainly where I currently sail in the Adriatic) and it would also be expensive to get a specialist to look at it, find if there's a gas leak etc. So I'm wondering whether I should buy a replacement compressor and get a specialist to replace the old with the new. The reason I'm thinking that solution is that when I spoke to the yard in Trieste, Italy where my boat is currently home berthed they told me they only do upright fridges. That would obviously need to go somewhere else than its current location, which is the usual Nic 35 location, which I'm reluctant to do.

          The second problem is with my aft winches, used primarily for spinnaker work. I need to service them. They are the Lewmar 30 Self-Tailing model - I have uploaded two photo's of them in the same 'Boreas J' folder. I have looked at the Lewmar Winch Servicing manual online but can't see my model. The issue is that I don't know how to get the drum off. On top it has no locking ring or cap to unscrew. Hence I wonder if I am meant to unscrew the whole, by initially gently banging the self-tail feeder arm to loosen it as it's solidly on. But I don't know whether it unscrews clockwise or anti-clockwise!

          Thanks for any advice.

          regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)




        • Graham Norbury
          John, If the compressor runs, the next most likely issue is loss of freon charge, and there are several possibilities for why this might happen. Whatever the
          Message 4 of 8 , Aug 19, 2013
            John,

            If the compressor runs, the next most likely issue is loss of freon charge, and there are several possibilities for why this might happen.  Whatever the reason you're going to require the services of a refrigeration tech to sort it out, and if it's an old R-12 unit you may as well give up and replace the equipment since that refrigerant gas has been out of production since 1994 and is now extremely difficult to find. 

            These days R134A systems are the most common, so if yours is one of those it can most likely be repaired and recharged.  Is there any chance someone might have accidentally damaged the evaporator plate while defrosting the icebox?  Making a hole in the thin aluminum is really easy if you're trying to chip ice off a frozen plate, and if this has happened you're going to need a new plate as they cannot be repaired.

            Best of luck
            Graham



            On 8/19/2013 2:46 PM, john crosby wrote:
             
            Dear Graham,

            I was on my boat over the weekend, during which I managed to do some checks based your useful advice. I don't think the issue is electrical or electronic, having done several tests on the electronic black box: (1) it's getting 12.79V, (2) I disconnected the thermostat and jumped C&T and both the fan and compressor started; (3) I reconnected the thermostat, turned it on and both the fan and compressor started; (4) I connected the LED to + and D, there were no error flashed. This leads me to think the compressor is no longer doing its thing to cool the pipes that run around the ice compartment in the fridge - I can feel a bit of cold, but not nearly as much as I used to - which leads me to think it's a gas issue.

            (I recall when I had an older car while living in the States sometime ago that the garage fixed my A/C, which over time became less efficient in providing cold air, by topping up the gas (freon?). That might have absolutely nothing to do with my current fridge problem, but it came to mind when I was thinking what might be wrong.)

            Any further thoughts?

            regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)

            ps: thanks to advice from others in response to the other problem in my earlier email, I managed to take my aft winches apart and give them a good service.


            From: Graham Norbury <gnorbury@...>
            To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thursday, 1 August 2013, 2:12
            Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Nic 35: Fridge & Lewmar Winches

             
            John,

            I can't help with the winches, but I do know a thing or two about Danfoss compressors.  From the photo it appears yours is a BD35F, which means it uses a DC control module that is capable of outputting diagnostic information to tell you why it's not happy.  Download the following .pdf for a explanation of how to view the controller diagnostics.  Don't worry if yours is not an Isotherm unit - all Danfoss BD35/DB50 equipment works the same way.
            http://www.isotherm-parts.com/PDF/service_notes/Danfoss-Troubleshooting.pdf
            http://www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature/Manuals/06/BD35-50F_101N0210-20-40_0300-20_08-2011_dehcei100b602.pdf

            One additional troubleshooting step you can take is to unscrew the black box from the side of the compressor (power it down first), then unplug the three pin connector from the hermetic unit.  Using a digital multimeter on the ohms scale, measure the resistance between each of the terminals.  (e.g. A-B, A-C, B-C).  They should all be very close to the same low value.  Measure again between each terminal and ground, only this time you should read very high or close to infinite resistance.

            Presumably you already checked the thermostat for proper operation? (You did say the fan turns on).  You can eliminate if from the equation by connecting a wire between the C and T terminals to force the compressor to start (at low speed).

            If the compressor windings look good, you've checked the thermostat and you're not getting any diagnostic flashes it's probably the black box that's gone wrong.  In the US they can be replaced for about $120 or so.

            BTW, the most common problem I see with these units is low voltage (low batts) followed by control box failure due to nearby lightning or voltage spike.
            Graham


            On 07/31/2013 5:35 PM, john57crosby wrote:
             
            I have two problems on my Nic 35 - I welcome suggestions on how to solve them!

            The first problem is that the fridge no longer works and I don't know why. The fan is working ok, so I think the issue is the compressor - I have uploaded a photo of it in an album called 'Boreas J'. I understand this may use old style gas which is no longer used (certainly where I currently sail in the Adriatic) and it would also be expensive to get a specialist to look at it, find if there's a gas leak etc. So I'm wondering whether I should buy a replacement compressor and get a specialist to replace the old with the new. The reason I'm thinking that solution is that when I spoke to the yard in Trieste, Italy where my boat is currently home berthed they told me they only do upright fridges. That would obviously need to go somewhere else than its current location, which is the usual Nic 35 location, which I'm reluctant to do.

            The second problem is with my aft winches, used primarily for spinnaker work. I need to service them. They are the Lewmar 30 Self-Tailing model - I have uploaded two photo's of them in the same 'Boreas J' folder. I have looked at the Lewmar Winch Servicing manual online but can't see my model. The issue is that I don't know how to get the drum off. On top it has no locking ring or cap to unscrew. Hence I wonder if I am meant to unscrew the whole, by initially gently banging the self-tail feeder arm to loosen it as it's solidly on. But I don't know whether it unscrews clockwise or anti-clockwise!

            Thanks for any advice.

            regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)





          • johnbaillie@btinternet.com
            John, If your compressor is a BD35F compressor, it will use R134a refrigerant as indicated in the Service Notes heading in Graham s 1st link PDF. I recently
            Message 5 of 8 , Aug 19, 2013
              John,

              If your compressor is a BD35F compressor, it will use R134a refrigerant as indicated in the Service Notes heading in Graham's 1st link PDF. I recently replaced this compressor on my Isotherm fridge.

              A refrigerant tech should be able to evacuate the refrigerant system and recharge it in situ from a bottle of R134a. If you look at the outline of the compressor in the heading of the 2nd pdf Graham referred you to, 2 of the stubs shown are the gas inlet and outlet circulating lines while the 3rd, dead end stub is used for evacuating and filling refrigerant.

              Hope this helps,

              John Baillie

              --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, Graham Norbury <gnorbury@...> wrote:
              >
              > John,
              >
              > If the compressor runs, the next most likely issue is loss of freon
              > charge, and there are several possibilities for why this might happen.
              > Whatever the reason you're going to require the services of a
              > refrigeration tech to sort it out, and if it's an old R-12 unit you may
              > as well give up and replace the equipment since that refrigerant gas has
              > been out of production since 1994 and is now extremely difficult to find.
              >
              > These days R134A systems are the most common, so if yours is one of
              > those it can most likely be repaired and recharged. Is there any chance
              > someone might have accidentally damaged the evaporator plate while
              > defrosting the icebox? Making a hole in the thin aluminum is really
              > easy if you're trying to chip ice off a frozen plate, and if this has
              > happened you're going to need a new plate as they cannot be repaired.
              >
              > Best of luck
              > Graham
              >
              >
              >
              > On 8/19/2013 2:46 PM, john crosby wrote:
              > > Dear Graham,
              > >
              > > I was on my boat over the weekend, during which I managed to do some
              > > checks based your useful advice. I don't think the issue is electrical
              > > or electronic, having done several tests on the electronic black box:
              > > (1) it's getting 12.79V, (2) I disconnected the thermostat and jumped
              > > C&T and both the fan and compressor started; (3) I reconnected the
              > > thermostat, turned it on and both the fan and compressor started; (4)
              > > I connected the LED to + and D, there were no error flashed. This
              > > leads me to think the compressor is no longer doing its thing to cool
              > > the pipes that run around the ice compartment in the fridge - I can
              > > feel a bit of cold, but not nearly as much as I used to - which leads
              > > me to think it's a gas issue.
              > >
              > > (I recall when I had an older car while living in the States sometime
              > > ago that the garage fixed my A/C, which over time became less
              > > efficient in providing cold air, by topping up the gas (freon?). That
              > > might have absolutely nothing to do with my current fridge problem,
              > > but it came to mind when I was thinking what might be wrong.)
              > >
              > > Any further thoughts?
              > >
              > > regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)
              > >
              > > ps: thanks to advice from others in response to the other problem in
              > > my earlier email, I managed to take my aft winches apart and give them
              > > a good service.
              > >
              > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
              > > *From:* Graham Norbury <gnorbury@...>
              > > *To:* campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
              > > *Sent:* Thursday, 1 August 2013, 2:12
              > > *Subject:* Re: [campernicholson] Nic 35: Fridge & Lewmar Winches
              > >
              > > John,
              > >
              > > I can't help with the winches, but I do know a thing or two about
              > > Danfoss compressors. From the photo it appears yours is a BD35F, which
              > > means it uses a DC control module that is capable of outputting
              > > diagnostic information to tell you why it's not happy. Download the
              > > following .pdf for a explanation of how to view the controller
              > > diagnostics. Don't worry if yours is not an Isotherm unit - all
              > > Danfoss BD35/DB50 equipment works the same way.
              > > http://www.isotherm-parts.com/PDF/service_notes/Danfoss-Troubleshooting.pdf
              > > http://www.ra.danfoss.com/TechnicalInfo/Literature/Manuals/06/BD35-50F_101N0210-20-40_0300-20_08-2011_dehcei100b602.pdf
              > >
              > > One additional troubleshooting step you can take is to unscrew the
              > > black box from the side of the compressor (power it down first), then
              > > unplug the three pin connector from the hermetic unit. Using a
              > > digital multimeter on the ohms scale, measure the resistance between
              > > each of the terminals. (e.g. A-B, A-C, B-C). They should all be very
              > > close to the same low value. Measure again between each terminal and
              > > ground, only this time you should read very high or close to infinite
              > > resistance.
              > >
              > > Presumably you already checked the thermostat for proper operation?
              > > (You did say the fan turns on). You can eliminate if from the
              > > equation by connecting a wire between the C and T terminals to force
              > > the compressor to start (at low speed).
              > >
              > > If the compressor windings look good, you've checked the thermostat
              > > and you're not getting any diagnostic flashes it's probably the black
              > > box that's gone wrong. In the US they can be replaced for about $120
              > > or so.
              > >
              > > BTW, the most common problem I see with these units is low voltage
              > > (low batts) followed by control box failure due to nearby lightning or
              > > voltage spike.
              > > Graham
              > >
              > >
              > > On 07/31/2013 5:35 PM, john57crosby wrote:
              > >> I have two problems on my Nic 35 - I welcome suggestions on how to
              > >> solve them!
              > >>
              > >> The first problem is that the fridge no longer works and I don't know
              > >> why. The fan is working ok, so I think the issue is the compressor -
              > >> I have uploaded a photo of it in an album called 'Boreas J'. I
              > >> understand this may use old style gas which is no longer used
              > >> (certainly where I currently sail in the Adriatic) and it would also
              > >> be expensive to get a specialist to look at it, find if there's a gas
              > >> leak etc. So I'm wondering whether I should buy a replacement
              > >> compressor and get a specialist to replace the old with the new. The
              > >> reason I'm thinking that solution is that when I spoke to the yard in
              > >> Trieste, Italy where my boat is currently home berthed they told me
              > >> they only do upright fridges. That would obviously need to go
              > >> somewhere else than its current location, which is the usual Nic 35
              > >> location, which I'm reluctant to do.
              > >>
              > >> The second problem is with my aft winches, used primarily for
              > >> spinnaker work. I need to service them. They are the Lewmar 30
              > >> Self-Tailing model - I have uploaded two photo's of them in the same
              > >> 'Boreas J' folder. I have looked at the Lewmar Winch Servicing manual
              > >> online but can't see my model. The issue is that I don't know how to
              > >> get the drum off. On top it has no locking ring or cap to unscrew.
              > >> Hence I wonder if I am meant to unscrew the whole, by initially
              > >> gently banging the self-tail feeder arm to loosen it as it's solidly
              > >> on. But I don't know whether it unscrews clockwise or anti-clockwise!
              > >>
              > >> Thanks for any advice.
              > >>
              > >> regards John (Boreas J, Hull No. 178)
              > >>
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              >
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