You can certainly get away with applying more or less anything over
AwlGrip so long as you have suitable expectations of end result.
For example, my old Nic35 once spent a rough night rubbing on a nail
sticking out of a dock piling. My "25yd repair" consisted of brush
touchup with Interlux yacht enamel. I certainly couldn't have got
away with that approach if someone was paying me to do the job, but
it worked fine for me given my time and budgetary constraints.
If you want a well-blended repair you are pretty much have to spray
it with the same product as originally used, and even then there are
certain tricks of the trade to achieve good results without
noticeable haloing. The officially sanctioned method requires the
use of blending reducers to thin the final coat so that you don't
have to go over the repair with any abrasive compounds. This type
of repair is especially challenging if you're dealing with a very
dark color or metallic finish that has been clear-coated. I've
seen it done well, but the hours involved can be depressing.
A prospective customer would be well advised to request a fixed
price quote for a job such as this, along with a defined set of
goals for what would be considered an acceptable outcome. By
establishing the criteria up front there is less likelihood for
mismatched expectations towards the end of the project.
On 02/16/2012 6:40 PM, MarkH wrote:
Awl Grip is as you know, a two part system. That gives you
some lattitude on fixes. You can apply about anything over
it. Singel part paints limit you to single part repairs or
the fix amy lift the substrate. That said, Awl Grip is
known for being difficult to fix. You might actually ask
your yard to quote you a 15-foot repair. (looks OK from 15
feet or more)
I have had some success with Awl Grip repairs by dilluting
it and applying many thin coats with a roller, sponge or
fine brush. If your finish is scraped up you might use
MarineTex wiped on with a plastic blade so No Sanding is
required before painting. Good luck.