Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Removing the bow roler

Expand Messages
  • geoff.n35fly
    Graham, Like Winston, I had to rebuild the bow roller attachment after finding the roller fitting was not attached. In my case only the deck bolts needed to be
    Message 1 of 12 , Apr 4, 2009
    • 0 Attachment
      Graham,
      Like Winston, I had to rebuild the bow roller attachment after finding the roller fitting was not attached. In my case only the deck bolts needed to be undone before the fitting could be lited off. The forward part of the fitting, in line with the forestay load, was completetly detached.
      It's best to take N35 bow roller problems seriously as the N32 MK 10 has the same method of attachment and I'm told has experienced problems resulting in the loss of a mast.
      I've put a set of pics in the photo section of how I re-attached my bow roller. It's not moved (yet)
      Geoff

      --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "wtrevarthen" <wstrev@...> wrote:
      >
      > Graham, One thing that hasn't been said is that those 5 bolts are threaded into an alumium plate. It has no nuts behind it and if you're haveing a hard time extracting them there is probably no thread left. I had to completly rebuild the bow area. I replaced the alumium plate with SS and reglassed the whole area. On my boat an alumium plate was also in the deck, back to the anchor chain deck fitting. GOOD LUCK !!
      > Winston
      > Cubera c/n35-49
      >
      > --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "Graham Horne" <graham.horne@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Just trying to work out how to remove the bow roller. There are 4 bold that go through the deck with nuts inside the anchor locker and there a 4 bolts that go into something onto the angle face inside the stem. Has anybody taken the bow roller off? I could not find anything in previous posts by searching for bow roller. Does anybody know how these bolts are attached? Is there perhaps a plate bedded into the angle face or something like that. Any help would be appreciated.
      > >
      > > Just for background I am removing everything from the deck for both a deck repaint and re-seat (seal) all deck fittings in a major refit. I figure I will do them all and be done with it it for some time. That's the plan anyway. The bow roller needs work (perhaps re-chroming along with port lite surrounds) anyway as the previous owner used a small clevis pin on all the forestay attachment points (he tried them all) stretching the holes and they now need fill welds and re-drilling.
      > >
      > > Thanks in advance
      > >
      > > Graham
      > > CN35 #138
      > >
      >
    • Graham Horne
      Thanks all for your replies. In the end I got the bow roller / stem head fitting off and the trick I have learned is to buy an impact driver. I was in Turkey
      Message 2 of 12 , Apr 5, 2009
      • 0 Attachment
        Thanks all for your replies. In the end I got the bow roller / stem head fitting off and the trick I have learned is to buy an impact driver. I was in Turkey doing the work and to explain to someone who doesn't understand English and I don't speak Turkish was a challenge. In the end it all worked out ok and the plate and glassing looks in good condition on the bow.

        Geoff looks like you a difficult time with your fitting and it sure looks strong now. The pics were helpful as well. You mentioned in your reply that this is a know weakness with both Nic 32's and 35's or words to that sort of effect. Have many folks had trouble with this fitting? Have many lost rigs with failure (or nearly).

        Once again I really appreciate the willingness of everyone to help.

        Thanks
        Graham

        --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "geoff.n35fly" <geoff.n35fly@...> wrote:
        >
        > Graham,
        > Like Winston, I had to rebuild the bow roller attachment after finding the roller fitting was not attached. In my case only the deck bolts needed to be undone before the fitting could be lited off. The forward part of the fitting, in line with the forestay load, was completetly detached.
        > It's best to take N35 bow roller problems seriously as the N32 MK 10 has the same method of attachment and I'm told has experienced problems resulting in the loss of a mast.
        > I've put a set of pics in the photo section of how I re-attached my bow roller. It's not moved (yet)
        > Geoff
        >
        > --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "wtrevarthen" <wstrev@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Graham, One thing that hasn't been said is that those 5 bolts are threaded into an alumium plate. It has no nuts behind it and if you're haveing a hard time extracting them there is probably no thread left. I had to completly rebuild the bow area. I replaced the alumium plate with SS and reglassed the whole area. On my boat an alumium plate was also in the deck, back to the anchor chain deck fitting. GOOD LUCK !!
        > > Winston
        > > Cubera c/n35-49
        > >
        > > --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "Graham Horne" <graham.horne@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Just trying to work out how to remove the bow roller. There are 4 bold that go through the deck with nuts inside the anchor locker and there a 4 bolts that go into something onto the angle face inside the stem. Has anybody taken the bow roller off? I could not find anything in previous posts by searching for bow roller. Does anybody know how these bolts are attached? Is there perhaps a plate bedded into the angle face or something like that. Any help would be appreciated.
        > > >
        > > > Just for background I am removing everything from the deck for both a deck repaint and re-seat (seal) all deck fittings in a major refit. I figure I will do them all and be done with it it for some time. That's the plan anyway. The bow roller needs work (perhaps re-chroming along with port lite surrounds) anyway as the previous owner used a small clevis pin on all the forestay attachment points (he tried them all) stretching the holes and they now need fill welds and re-drilling.
        > > >
        > > > Thanks in advance
        > > >
        > > > Graham
        > > > CN35 #138
        > > >
        > >
        >
      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.