Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Replacing Culass Bearing

Expand Messages
  • blue.nava
    Some guidance please - I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have owned my Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
    Message 1 of 7 , Nov 20, 2008
      Some guidance please -

      I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have owned my
      Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
      movement only. This does not seem to have got worse over the years.
      Mine is the shaft and 'P'Bracket version from 1979 and I am
      considering doing this work as much as anything to put a date stamp
      on the job.

      A couple of questions please -

      What amount of movement is too much ?

      To replace, is it a case of drawing the shaft out into the boat, or
      can I just take the prop off and knock out the Cutlass bearing ?

      Is there something holding the cutlass bearing in place - for example
      small screws into the 'P' Bracket ( I cannot obviously spot any) ?

      Any other considerations would be most welcome.

      Regards
      Simon
      35 / 177
    • Graham Norbury
      Simon, My rule of thumb is that any appreciable movement of the shaft inside the cutlass is a good indication that replacement is not far away. Certainly by
      Message 2 of 7 , Nov 20, 2008
        Simon,

        My rule of thumb is that any appreciable movement of the shaft inside
        the cutlass is a good indication that replacement is not far away.
        Certainly by the time you get 1/16" you are ready.

        There are two ways to change a cutlass in a strut:-
        - remove the prop, pull the shaft, undo the set screws in the strut and
        drive it out with a drift.
        - remove the prop, undo the set screws in the strut and use a special
        puller to extract the cutlass.

        The advantage of pulling the shaft is that you get to inspect its
        condition. If you have appreciable wear in the area where the cutlass
        support it, you should go ahead and replace the shaft too. Also, if
        you've got a Vetus flexible coupling on your V-drive, you should go
        ahead and swap out the rubber bushings.

        Whatever happens, you also get to do an engine alignment after you have
        everything reinstalled and the boat back in the water for at least 24hrs.

        regards
        Graham

        blue.nava wrote:
        >
        > Some guidance please -
        >
        > I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have owned my
        > Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
        > movement only. This does not seem to have got worse over the years.
        > Mine is the shaft and 'P'Bracket version from 1979 and I am
        > considering doing this work as much as anything to put a date stamp
        > on the job.
        >
        > A couple of questions please -
        >
        > What amount of movement is too much ?
        >
        > To replace, is it a case of drawing the shaft out into the boat, or
        > can I just take the prop off and knock out the Cutlass bearing ?
        >
        > Is there something holding the cutlass bearing in place - for example
        > small screws into the 'P' Bracket ( I cannot obviously spot any) ?
        >
        > Any other considerations would be most welcome.
        >
        > Regards
        > Simon
        > 35 / 177
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
        >
        > Spam <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=s&i=158002490&m=eb6462df94f2>
        > Not spam
        > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=n&i=158002490&m=eb6462df94f2>
        > Forget previous vote
        > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=f&i=158002490&m=eb6462df94f2>
        > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
        >
        >
        > No virus found in this incoming message.
        > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
        > Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.8/1800 - Release Date: 11/19/2008 6:55 PM
        >
        >
      • simon allard
        Graham, Thank you for your response. So there is a screw ( or two ) that holds the Cutlass Bearing in place. Where abouts on the P Bracket should I look for
        Message 3 of 7 , Nov 20, 2008
          Graham,
          Thank you for your response.
          So there is a screw ( or two ) that holds the Cutlass Bearing in place.
          Where abouts on the 'P' Bracket should I look for these scews, as they are not immediately obvious and of course covered in antifouling paint  ??
          Regards
          Simon

          --- On Thu, 20/11/08, Graham Norbury <gnorbury@...> wrote:
          From: Graham Norbury <gnorbury@...>
          Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Replacing Culass Bearing
          To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Thursday, 20 November, 2008, 12:07 PM

          Simon,

          My rule of thumb is that any appreciable movement of the shaft inside
          the cutlass is a good indication that replacement is not far away.
          Certainly by the time you get 1/16" you are ready.

          There are two ways to change a cutlass in a strut:-
          - remove the prop, pull the shaft, undo the set screws in the strut and
          drive it out with a drift.
          - remove the prop, undo the set screws in the strut and use a special
          puller to extract the cutlass.

          The advantage of pulling the shaft is that you get to inspect its
          condition. If you have appreciable wear in the area where the cutlass
          support it, you should go ahead and replace the shaft too. Also, if
          you've got a Vetus flexible coupling on your V-drive, you should go
          ahead and swap out the rubber bushings.

          Whatever happens, you also get to do an engine alignment after you have
          everything reinstalled and the boat back in the water for at least 24hrs.

          regards
          Graham

          blue.nava wrote:
          >
          > Some guidance please -
          >
          > I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have owned my
          > Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
          > movement only. This does not seem to have got worse over the years.
          > Mine is the shaft and 'P'Bracket version from 1979 and I am
          > considering doing this work as much as anything to put a date stamp
          > on the job.
          >
          > A couple of questions please -
          >
          > What amount of movement is too much ?
          >
          > To replace, is it a case of drawing the shaft out into the boat, or
          > can I just take the prop off and knock out the Cutlass bearing ?
          >
          > Is there something holding the cutlass bearing in place - for example
          > small screws into the 'P' Bracket ( I cannot obviously spot any) ?
          >
          > Any other considerations would be most welcome.
          >
          > Regards
          > Simon
          > 35 / 177
          >
          >
          > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
          >
          > Spam <http://mailshield. cosmoweb. net/b.php? c=s&i=158002490& m=eb6462df94f2>
          > Not spam
          > <http://mailshield. cosmoweb. net/b.php? c=n&i=158002490& m=eb6462df94f2>
          > Forget previous vote
          > <http://mailshield. cosmoweb. net/b.php? c=f&i=158002490& m=eb6462df94f2>
          > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
          >
          >
          > No virus found in this incoming message.
          > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg. com
          > Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.8/1800 - Release Date: 11/19/2008 6:55 PM
          >
          >

        • MICHAEL FORSDYKE
          Hello Simon   My Nic 35 is number 209 and, presumably, has a very similar arrrangement to yours. Like you, I have never found any set screws or other
          Message 4 of 7 , Nov 20, 2008
            Hello Simon
             
            My Nic 35 is number 209 and, presumably, has a very similar arrrangement to yours. Like you, I have never found any set screws or other positive fixing arrangement that secures the cutlass bearing in the P-bracket. However you should have a good search in case your P-bracket does have set screws.
             
            My procedure, which has worked successfully several times, is to remove the prop (using a puller, not hammers) and the shaft; then pull out the bearing with a special puller that I have made up. The puller consists of a length of tube larger in diameter than the bearing and a bit longer; one end of this rests against the P-bracket . A lenght of half-inch threaded rod passes through the tube and bearing and there is a thick disc at each end, the one at the bearing end being slightly smaller in diameter than the outside diameter of the bearing, and a nut at each end of the threaded rod. Assemble this puller and tighten the nuts and the bearing should draw out easily.
             
            In the absence of a positive fixing for the bearing I have always reassembled it with a good coating of a thread-locking grade of Loctite and have never experienced any trouble. The mating surfaces must be clean and free from any grease or other contamination to ensure that the Loctite bonds properly and the bearing may need to be held in place temporarily until the Loctite sets.
             
            I hope this helps. Best wishes.
             
            Michael Forsdyke


            --- On Thu, 20/11/08, blue.nava <blue.nava@...> wrote:
            From: blue.nava <blue.nava@...>
            Subject: [campernicholson] Replacing Culass Bearing
            To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Thursday, 20 November, 2008, 10:54 AM

            Some guidance please -

            I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have owned my
            Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
            movement only. This does not seem to have got worse over the years.
            Mine is the shaft and 'P'Bracket version from 1979 and I am
            considering doing this work as much as anything to put a date stamp
            on the job.

            A couple of questions please -

            What amount of movement is too much ?

            To replace, is it a case of drawing the shaft out into the boat, or
            can I just take the prop off and knock out the Cutlass bearing ?

            Is there something holding the cutlass bearing in place - for example
            small screws into the 'P' Bracket ( I cannot obviously spot any) ?

            Any other considerations would be most welcome.

            Regards
            Simon
            35 / 177

          • Graham Norbury
            Simon, You ll find two small allen-head set screws, which are probably either flush or recessed and certainly painted over by now. On Luna Azul, they were
            Message 5 of 7 , Nov 20, 2008
              Simon,

              You'll find two small allen-head set screws, which are probably either
              flush or recessed and certainly painted over by now. On Luna Azul, they
              were both located on the same side of the strut. Sorry, I can't
              remember if they were to port or starboard.

              Graham

              simon allard wrote:
              >
              > Graham,
              > Thank you for your response.
              > So there is a screw ( or two ) that holds the Cutlass Bearing in place.
              > Where abouts on the 'P' Bracket should I look for these scews, as they
              > are not immediately obvious and of course covered in antifouling paint ??
              > Regards
              > Simon
              >
              > --- On *Thu, 20/11/08, Graham Norbury /<gnorbury@...>/* wrote:
              >
              > From: Graham Norbury <gnorbury@...>
              > Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Replacing Culass Bearing
              > To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
              > Date: Thursday, 20 November, 2008, 12:07 PM
              >
              > Simon,
              >
              > My rule of thumb is that any appreciable movement of the shaft inside
              > the cutlass is a good indication that replacement is not far away.
              > Certainly by the time you get 1/16" you are ready.
              >
              > There are two ways to change a cutlass in a strut:-
              > - remove the prop, pull the shaft, undo the set screws in the
              > strut and
              > drive it out with a drift.
              > - remove the prop, undo the set screws in the strut and use a special
              > puller to extract the cutlass.
              >
              > The advantage of pulling the shaft is that you get to inspect its
              > condition. If you have appreciable wear in the area where the cutlass
              > support it, you should go ahead and replace the shaft too. Also, if
              > you've got a Vetus flexible coupling on your V-drive, you should go
              > ahead and swap out the rubber bushings.
              >
              > Whatever happens, you also get to do an engine alignment after you
              > have
              > everything reinstalled and the boat back in the water for at least
              > 24hrs.
              >
              > regards
              > Graham
              >
              > blue.nava wrote:
              > >
              > > Some guidance please -
              > >
              > > I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have
              > owned my
              > > Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
              > > movement only. This does not seem to have got worse over the years.
              > > Mine is the shaft and 'P'Bracket version from 1979 and I am
              > > considering doing this work as much as anything to put a date stamp
              > > on the job.
              > >
              > > A couple of questions please -
              > >
              > > What amount of movement is too much ?
              > >
              > > To replace, is it a case of drawing the shaft out into the boat, or
              > > can I just take the prop off and knock out the Cutlass bearing ?
              > >
              > > Is there something holding the cutlass bearing in place - for
              > example
              > > small screws into the 'P' Bracket ( I cannot obviously spot any) ?
              > >
              > > Any other considerations would be most welcome.
              > >
              > > Regards
              > > Simon
              > > 35 / 177
              > >
              > >
              > > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
              > >
              > > Spam <http://mailshield. cosmoweb. net/b.php? c=s&i=158002490&
              > m=eb6462df94f2
              > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=s&i=158002490&m=eb6462df94f2>>
              > > Not spam
              > > <http://mailshield. cosmoweb. net/b.php? c=n&i=158002490&
              > m=eb6462df94f2
              > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=n&i=158002490&m=eb6462df94f2>>
              > > Forget previous vote
              > > <http://mailshield. cosmoweb. net/b.php? c=f&i=158002490&
              > m=eb6462df94f2
              > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=f&i=158002490&m=eb6462df94f2>>
              > > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
              > >
              > >
              > > No virus found in this incoming message.
              > > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg. com <http://www.avg.com/>
              > > Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.8/1800 - Release Date:
              > 11/19/2008 6:55 PM
              > >
              > >
              >
              >
              >
              > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
              >
              > Spam <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=s&i=158037691&m=9c9588120be5>
              > Not spam
              > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=n&i=158037691&m=9c9588120be5>
              > Forget previous vote
              > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=f&i=158037691&m=9c9588120be5>
              > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
              >
              >
              > No virus found in this incoming message.
              > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
              > Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.8/1800 - Release Date: 11/19/2008 6:55 PM
              >
              >
            • Graham Norbury
              Even if you don t have set screws when you take the things apart, I see no reason why you wouldn t drill and tap for them when you put stuff back together.
              Message 6 of 7 , Nov 20, 2008
                Even if you don't have set screws when you take the things apart, I see
                no reason why you wouldn't drill and tap for them when you put stuff
                back together. Positive retention of the cutlass is an industry norm,
                and saves a lot of hassle when your friction-fit cutlass works its way
                out of the strut somewhere down the line. Note: the outer bronze shell
                of the bearing should be lightly drilled to provide a corresponding
                "divot" for the set screw to engage.

                Graham

                MICHAEL FORSDYKE wrote:
                >
                > Hello Simon
                >
                > My Nic 35 is number 209 and, presumably, has a very similar
                > arrrangement to yours. Like you, I have never found any set screws or
                > other positive fixing arrangement that secures the cutlass bearing in
                > the P-bracket. However you should have a good search in case your
                > P-bracket does have set screws.
                >
                > My procedure, which has worked successfully several times, is to
                > remove the prop (using a puller, not hammers) and the shaft; then pull
                > out the bearing with a special puller that I have made up. The puller
                > consists of a length of tube larger in diameter than the bearing and a
                > bit longer; one end of this rests against the P-bracket . A lenght of
                > half-inch threaded rod passes through the tube and bearing and there
                > is a thick disc at each end, the one at the bearing end being slightly
                > smaller in diameter than the outside diameter of the bearing, and
                > a nut at each end of the threaded rod. Assemble this puller and
                > tighten the nuts and the bearing should draw out easily.
                >
                > In the absence of a positive fixing for the bearing I have always
                > reassembled it with a good coating of a thread-locking grade of
                > Loctite and have never experienced any trouble. The mating surfaces
                > must be clean and free from any grease or other contamination to
                > ensure that the Loctite bonds properly and the bearing may need to be
                > held in place temporarily until the Loctite sets.
                >
                > I hope this helps. Best wishes.
                >
                > Michael Forsdyke
                >
                >
                > --- On *Thu, 20/11/08, blue.nava /<blue.nava@...>/* wrote:
                >
                > From: blue.nava <blue.nava@...>
                > Subject: [campernicholson] Replacing Culass Bearing
                > To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
                > Date: Thursday, 20 November, 2008, 10:54 AM
                >
                > Some guidance please -
                >
                > I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have owned my
                > Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
                > movement only. This does not seem to have got worse over the years.
                > Mine is the shaft and 'P'Bracket version from 1979 and I am
                > considering doing this work as much as anything to put a date stamp
                > on the job.
                >
                > A couple of questions please -
                >
                > What amount of movement is too much ?
                >
                > To replace, is it a case of drawing the shaft out into the boat, or
                > can I just take the prop off and knock out the Cutlass bearing ?
                >
                > Is there something holding the cutlass bearing in place - for example
                > small screws into the 'P' Bracket ( I cannot obviously spot any) ?
                >
                > Any other considerations would be most welcome.
                >
                > Regards
                > Simon
                > 35 / 177
                >
                >
                > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
                >
                > Spam <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=s&i=158049095&m=0463a8668e84>
                > Not spam
                > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=n&i=158049095&m=0463a8668e84>
                > Forget previous vote
                > <http://mailshield.cosmoweb.net/b.php?c=f&i=158049095&m=0463a8668e84>
                > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
                >
                >
                > No virus found in this incoming message.
                > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
                > Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.8/1800 - Release Date: 11/19/2008 6:55 PM
                >
                >
              • wispcb
                Simon, I have replaced the cutlass bearing on my 77 35 (#141) several times. It has two set screws on port or starboard side of the strut, don t remember
                Message 7 of 7 , Nov 20, 2008
                  Simon,

                  I have replaced the cutlass bearing on my 77 35 (#141) several times.
                  It has two set screws on port or starboard side of the strut, don't
                  remember which. I also removed the shaft (fairly easy) in order to get
                  to the cutlass. I highly recommend not trying to 'knock' the bearing
                  out. A previous e-mail described an all-thread and various sized
                  cylinders to extract the bearing. That's the way to go. The old one
                  can be easily extracted in that manner, and the new one 'tapped' in to
                  place. I repeat, 'tapped'. The set screw's I have area allen head,
                  which I plug with perafin/wax, which makes them easier to find the next
                  time ( the wax makes the bottom paint very easy to remove).

                  Good Luck,

                  Rick 'Wisp'










                  --- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "blue.nava" <blue.nava@...>
                  wrote: used the >
                  > Some guidance please -
                  >
                  > I have not replaced my Cutlass Bearing in the 8 years I have owned my
                  > Nic 35, and currently out of the water, I have a small amount of
                  > movement only. This does not seem to have got worse over the years.
                  > Mine is the shaft and 'P'Bracket version from 1979 and I am
                  > considering doing this work as much as anything to put a date stamp
                  > on the job.
                  >
                  > A couple of questions please -
                  >
                  > What amount of movement is too much ?
                  >
                  > To replace, is it a case of drawing the shaft out into the boat, or
                  > can I just take the prop off and knock out the Cutlass bearing ?
                  >
                  > Is there something holding the cutlass bearing in place - for example
                  > small screws into the 'P' Bracket ( I cannot obviously spot any) ?
                  >
                  > Any other considerations would be most welcome.
                  >
                  > Regards
                  > Simon
                  > 35 / 177
                  >
                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.